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Username Post: Global West Bump Steer kit install        (Topic#334722)
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-11-16 06:47 PM - Post#2621033    

I thought I would do a write up on Global West's Power Steering Conversion and Bump Steer kit. There is not much on the subject and I know there are a few people who have bought the kit but have not installed it yet. Hopefully this will help out others interested in purchasing the product or deciding whether or not to try and install it themselves.

Two years ago I bought the Power Steering Conversion kit from Borgeson. I installed that myself but was not thrilled with the results. The car wandered all over the road and felt unsafe, especailly at 45+ mph. After hearing about this kit, I knew I wanted to go this route and hopefully get the quality ride I was expecting from the Borgeson Conversion.

So I bought the bump steer kit from Global West minus the steering box. My write up will start from this perspective as there are a couple steps I had to do that people buying the steering box with their kit will not have to do. I also did this install on my back with the car on jack stands.

I want to point out that the instructions are not the best. I will point out a couple of issues with the instructions that will save you some time trying to figure out what the heck they are talking about. Before I did anything, I took a paint pen and marked the steering gear box and spline so I knew where they matched up again. I also strapped the steering wheel in place so it wouldn't move. This might be overkill but it was easy to do and I didn't have to worry about anything moving.

Take off your old idler arm, center drag link, inner and outter tie rods, and sway bar/end links.

My comments on the provided instructions with the kit:

Step 1 of instructions: No problems here, very straight forward and accuarte.

Step 2 of instructions: This is where I ran into multiple issues. First, I had to remove the adapter from my box so I could put on the new adapter. The new adapter changes the angle of the box substantially. If you already have the Borgeson box installed, you will have to swap the box adapter plates. The installed adapter plate was on really tight, so tight I had to use my air impact wrench to remove the bolts. Careful not to mess up the bolts because you have to re-use them (not mentioned in the instructions). You will be re-useing two of the three adapter plate bolts you took off. The other bolt you will use from the kit as it is specifically designed for the new adapter plate. The two bolts you re-use go on the bottom two holes of the adapter and the new bolt goes on top. The top bolt hole is recessed to fit the new bolt. You will sandwich the 3 provided spacers between the box and the frame.

My first problem was the old bolts where about 1/4 to long.



I was none to pleased with that. The frame prevents you from tightening the bolt down any further so I had to use some additional washers as a temporary fix.

Steering box headache part two was when I tried to mount the box to the frame. I couldn't get the any of the bolts to catch any of the 3 hole threads to save my life. After about 15 min and a dead left arm, I took a break and removed the braket from the box. I still couldn't get the bolts to catch; however, they would catch easily from the other side and would contine to tighten until it reached the other side where it stopped and would not go any further. The adapter plate only fits one way due to the specail flush bolt used up top of the adapter. Bottom line, I had to take the plate to a friend's shop where he confirmed it wasn't threaded to accept bolts on that side it was supposed to. He cut the threads for me and I was back in business. That was 2hrs out of my day I wasn't going to get back. So, in short, if you have to swap the adapter plates, do yourself a favor and check to ensure the bolts go in where they are supposed to before you start your project. I got back to the house and fastened up the box to the frame easily.



Step 3: Accurate, just make sure you install the pitman arm pointing towards the back of the car with it angling down, not up.



Step 4: Accurate, my car didn't require the additoinal idler arm steps so I can attest to that. Make sure you install the grease fitting. It's a different size than the two used for the tie rod ends.

Step 5: Accurate, and pretty easy. After torqueing the nuts down on the idler arm and pitman arm, I noticed the nuts don't go all the way to the bottom to the plastic washer. I was initially concerned with this but left it as I figured that was by design or the washer wouldn't be made of plastic. See below at the center link-pitman arm connection. Idler arm connection is the same:



I had no trouble getting the idler arm and pitman arms parallel when installing the center link.

Step 6: Again, not applicable to my car. Others I know will have to do this step so I encourage them to post about their experience with this step.

Step 7: This step indicates that the new steering shaft the provide is indented on both ends and used for placing the set screw and factory clamp. The shaft was not indented on either end. I called Global West and asked them about it and they admitted the instructions were wrong about this and I didn't need to make any indentions myself. I installed the intermediate shaft easily ensuring I had enough on both sides for the factory clamp up top and set screw on the bottom to grab.

8. I used torque wrench as directed. Cotter pins and grease fittings installed. I did have two additional grease fittings as I only installed them on the idler arm and outter tie rod ends. I watched the bump steer video again and noticed they had grease fittings installed on the center drag link but there are no holes for this. I certainly didn't want to drill and tap any for fear metal shavings might get into the bearings. I called Global West again to confirm and there are no fittings installed on the center drag link. Thank goodness, I would have not been happy about that if I had to do it.

9. self explanatory.

I have not installed the sway bar yet. I also purchased their front end spring and getting them installed at the same time as my alignment is getting done. I'm pretty sure they would have to remove the the end links to get the springs installed anyway so I saw no point of doing it now.

I'll post more after I get the alignment and springs installed on Weds. I hope to install the sway bar Thurs or Friday and will continue my write up at that point.

Hopefully a few of you find some value in this as I wish I knew a couple of these issues prior to my starting the project. Here are a couple more pics of the install.







If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'm no pro, if I can help, I certainly will.




Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
1963SBHD 
Contributor
Posts: 832
1963SBHD
Loc: south carolina
Reg: 09-01-11
04-11-16 08:46 PM - Post#2621055    
    In response to kingkreeton

WOW Awesome pictures and post !!! Thanks for the details in your write up as well. Looking forward to the next installment...SO FAR we are proving the GW kit will help our old rides..handle better, safer. Michael J.



 
drpepper 
Contributor
Posts: 380
drpepper
Age: 70
Loc: Kentucky/Florida
Reg: 05-14-09
04-12-16 04:25 AM - Post#2621076    
    In response to kingkreeton

You said that your car wandered with the borgeson gear only. It looks as though you had the original upper control arms. I'm no expert but It was my understanding that when you added the borgeson p.s. gear you were supposed to add aftermarket upper control arms that added 4 or 5 degrees of caster to stop the wandering. Again, I'm not bashing just asking. I'd appreciate anyones thoughts on this. I have mine together with the borgeson gear and cpp upper control arms but I haven't aligned or driven the car yet. Maybe I can save myself some additional work by correcting mine before I go any further.



 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-12-16 05:21 AM - Post#2621084    
    In response to drpepper

You are correct, I am unable to get the recommended caster with the stock control arms. I asked Doug, owner of Global West about this and he said his center drag link and corrected angle of the box were the biggest contributing factors of getting rid of the bump steer issue.

It makes sence, I had no bump steer issue with the factory box and front end componets. It was not until I put the Borgeson box on, chaning the geometry of the componets that I started having issues.

I'm sure the upgraded sway bar will help things as well, I was very suprised to see how big it is compared to the factory. Its a least twice the thickness, if not more.

In your case, you might actually be ok because you have the ability to acheive the caster. Try it out and see. If its not how you want it, then try and bigger sway bar. No need to spend money if you car already drives safely. I surely would not have.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
MikeUSNRet 
Contributor
Posts: 116
MikeUSNRet
Loc: Northwest Arkansas
Reg: 07-14-11
04-12-16 06:55 AM - Post#2621092    
    In response to kingkreeton

Excellent write-up and pictures. I too installed the Borgeson kit and found my car to be very difficult to control. I had previously installed aftermarket control arms and had 5 degrees caster on both sides. The car wandered badly and it felt like the left wheel was kind of going where ever it wanted to. So my thoughts are, the positioning and mounting angle of the Borgeson kit box create the problem. Increased caster alone will not solve the problem.

After some hand wringing over the expense, I called Doug at Global West and ordered his kit minus the box. I think I got an early version as I had to wait awhile for delivery. However, the quality and fit was very good. I also installed the sway bar. Be forewarned, you may learn a few new words while getting the sway bar mounting hardware into the frame rails.

In the end, I am more than satisfied with the new setup. It completely solved my driving and handling issues. The car (59 El Camino with LS power) is great fun to drive now. BTW, I will be 70 soon and do all my own work.

Thanks again for the great write-up.

MikeUSNRetired
1959 El Camino 5.3, 4L60E, 9" 3.70 Tru Trac




 
drpepper 
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Posts: 380
drpepper
Age: 70
Loc: Kentucky/Florida
Reg: 05-14-09
04-12-16 07:25 AM - Post#2621097    
    In response to kingkreeton

Thanks for the write up and the info from both you guys. I have a large sway bar already but as I said, I haven't driven my car yet. I did drill the frame to get the idler arm to set at the same angle as the steering gear. I wonder if that's what causes the bump steer. Did G.W. elaborate about what exactly caused it.



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2850
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
04-12-16 07:31 AM - Post#2621099    
    In response to kingkreeton

Great post. We all appreciate it, I'm sure.

It's also good to see the replies. Especially the confirmation that the kit seems needed even if you have new upper a-arms, which I have.

When I ordered it a few days ago, they said it would be at least 2 weeks before it ships.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1848

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
04-12-16 07:54 AM - Post#2621101    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I have found in my shop some GM vehicles that exhibit bump steer have had stock steering components replaced and the center link is not parallel to the ground or chassis, this causes the tie rods to be at different lengths over dips in the road, often overlooked. Great write and info on the work done!



 
TEXAS 62 
Contributor
Posts: 143
TEXAS 62
Loc: Crowley TX.
Reg: 08-26-13
04-12-16 07:55 AM - Post#2621102    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I ordered mine from summit and it took about 7 weeks



 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-12-16 08:15 AM - Post#2621111    
    In response to MikeUSNRet

  • MikeUSNRet Said:
Be forewarned, you may learn a few new words while getting the sway bar mounting hardware into the frame rails.



This is the part of the install I'm dreading actually. I'll probably have a friend come help, it might be easier with two people. If you can remember any tips on how to do it easier, please share.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
TEXAS 62 
Contributor
Posts: 143
TEXAS 62
Loc: Crowley TX.
Reg: 08-26-13
04-12-16 09:44 AM - Post#2621127    
    In response to kingkreeton

Did you drill the holes on side the frame so you can drop in the bolts ? When installing the sway bar I used vise grip c clamps to the bushing bracket to hold it in place



 
MikeUSNRet 
Contributor
Posts: 116
MikeUSNRet
Loc: Northwest Arkansas
Reg: 07-14-11
04-12-16 09:57 AM - Post#2621132    
    In response to TEXAS 62

drpepper, Global West has three short video clips on their web site showing the net effect of the bump steer problem with our cars. One is stock, the second with what I think is the Borgeson kit and the third with their bump steer kit installed. They show the relationship of toe in change to normal up & down suspension movement. Very informative.

texas62, Yes, I did cut the access holes. But I do remember it being a little of a challenge getting those bolts in place. I'll blame it on old age, working alone and an increasing lack of patience. I do think that big sway bar is a major factor in the improved handling of the car.

MikeH


MikeUSNRetired
1959 El Camino 5.3, 4L60E, 9" 3.70 Tru Trac




Edited by MikeUSNRet on 04-12-16 10:04 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
04-12-16 10:55 AM - Post#2621139    
    In response to MikeUSNRet

Great info and pics, this GW kit did wonders for my 61 Impala especially being a 4dr HT. Car drives great, but I am still running factory control arms in front with new bushings. It aligned well but the factory control arms are definitely a weakness. On my driver side, there must be more then 10 shims. I can only imagine how good my car will handle to replace with aftermarket tubular control arms. Which tubular arms do you guys recommend on a cheap budget? Can I get away with doing just the uppers or do I need to swap out the lowers as well? I do not mean to intrude on this topic.



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
04-12-16 11:06 AM - Post#2621142    
    In response to kingkreeton

A few comments:

I put over 60k miles in two years on a '63 Impala back in the '60s and except when it needed ball joints and idler arm bushings, it drove great. No wander, looseness, 'bump steer', or steering play. The car did not handle the way today's car do, but is wasn't designed for that. There is nothing inherently wrong with the stock suspension/steering.

When my current '63 needed a lot of work on its power steering, I decided to change to the newer Borgeson type system.

Some lessons I learned:

The 4-5 degrees of + caster is required.

The stock upper control arms can't get near that amount; new control arms are required.

It is imperative to align the car to the new spec for the control arms; stock alignment no longer works.

The Impala's inherent roll characteristics cause issues with the steering response. A larger anti-sway bar is VERY helpful getting that under control.



So, what I thought was going to be a rather simple change in steering box, turned into a much more expensive job.

Now, after everything is 'complete', the change in steering ratio, the elimination of the leaky components from the old system, and the reduced body roll, make the car drive quite nicely. After I forget how much I paid for it, I'm really going to enjoy it.








 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
04-12-16 11:18 AM - Post#2621145    
    In response to MikeUSNRet

  • MikeUSNRet Said:
drpepper, Global West has three short video clips on their web site showing the net effect of the bump steer problem with our cars. One is stock, the second with what I think is the Borgeson kit and the third with their bump steer kit installed. They show the relationship of toe in change to normal up & down suspension movement. Very informative.

texas62, Yes, I did cut the access holes. But I do remember it being a little of a challenge getting those bolts in place. I'll blame it on old age, working alone and an increasing lack of patience. I do think that big sway bar is a major factor in the improved handling of the car.

MikeH




Just for 'full disclosure'; take a close look at the caster values in the video. The stock upper control arms can't get that much. The values they are showing are achieved on a car with the 'bump steer kit' AND tubular upper control arms (w/built-in + caster). It may have tubular lowers too; can't tell.








 
cowfarmer350 
Senior Member
Posts: 1224

Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 02-03-01
04-12-16 03:00 PM - Post#2621174    
    In response to kingkreeton

Just wondering did they tell you what the replacement parts are from , like the centre link looks like from an A-Body , and what are those inner tie rods from



 
1963SBHD 
Contributor
Posts: 832
1963SBHD
Loc: south carolina
Reg: 09-01-11
04-12-16 03:01 PM - Post#2621175    
    In response to japete92

GREAT STUFF !!!! WELL ** Please SAY A PRAYER for those of us WASTING BIG BUCKS (me n Chevy-4-life for example) on purchasing/installing a rack n pinion system to get basically the same problems. OVER 3,000 + for me (as I got a second one for parts/future..I'm anal.) and Chevy-4-life for his install, then removal. WITH THIS forum we are blazing a trail for future folks..rebuild it all STOCK..or modify it with these components that WORK together. Will save lots of dollars in the "CURSE JARS" all across the Globe.

Michael J.



 
VintageCarryall 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2634

Loc: Arizona
Reg: 10-08-06
04-12-16 03:11 PM - Post#2621180    
    In response to 1963SBHD

I hate to say this but; I'm starting to really wonder (NO pun intended) about some of the aftermarket steering/suspension stuff out there, especially since the 1963-82 Corvette used essentially the same setup as the 1958-64 big Chevy car and, few people will trash even a late 1970's Vette for poor handling if the latter's in top condition.

1994 Dodge Caravan SWB 3.3L V6
1962 Studebaker Lark 4 door 350 Chevy/TH350



 
Slick62 
Poster
Posts: 51
Slick62
Loc: ND
Reg: 09-20-11
04-12-16 03:56 PM - Post#2621189    
    In response to VintageCarryall

I must start off by saying that I do not have the Global West setup on my car, but maybe it will relate to others reading this post. If I hadn't completely rebuilt my suspension a couple of years before I did my power steering conversion, I probably would have bought this setup and saved myself some grief. The following is an excerpt from my build and some of it may or may not apply to GW installs.

  • Slick62 Said:
Next up is the highly debated steering box conversion. I went with the Delphi 600 box because, well it seemed like a simple bolt-in, it's the most "up to date" option available, and because it is advertised as being able to clear most radiators. As you can see from my previous update I had installed the steering box and shaft prior to setting the engine and transmission in the car. That part of the installation went great with no hiccups. Where the the trouble came in was about 2-3 weeks later when I decided to hook my centerlink and pitman arm back up to the box. I had left it unhooked because I didn't have any weight in the front with out the engine in, and I had the bags fully inflated so I'd have more room to roll around underneath the car. I didn't want any the components sitting at any goofy angles so I left it unhooked, until this point when I wanted to reconnect everything. Nothing I could do would even let me get the pitmarn arm on the steering box shaft with it attached to the center link. Ok, I'll put the pitman arm on the shaft and try to get the center link on the pitman arm shaft. That was a no go. I spent at least a day researching this thing, and that is when I started reading about the fun that everyone else had been having with these things. There are at least four different websites that I have seen people having trouble with these steering boxes. Here is what I learned, and I really hope that it can help somebody else, because I literally spent hours trying to see how the successful swaps were working and mine was not. I stumbled across Durg's post on this site and I finally noticed something. When I rebuilt my front end components, the CPP kit that I had installed had me using according to their catalog, a 63-64 impala centerlink. The successful installs I was seeing were using the 61-62 type.
As you can see in the picture, the top is the factory, and the bottom is the CPP.



A rough measurement revealed almost 5/8” of difference in height. Of course these pictures do not show the cleaning and rebuilding I had to do to my stock unit.



When I went to install the stock unit, everything came together like it was meant to be. Almost. Prior to this point my tie rods had been adjusted all over the place trying to get everything to fit the other center link. So I pulled my tie rod ends off of the center link. I noticed and others have as well that the Borgeson box is mounted on a plate with two spacers on the bottom two bolts and the top is bolted directly to the plate resulting in the unit being mounted at a slight angle. I removed the top bolt and put an equal thickness spacer in. This put the steering box shaft almost perfectly level and put the pitman arm at a noticeably better angle. From here, I set the angle on the idler arm just forward of the factory hole until I found the perfect spot that had the center link level and parallel with the engine crossmember. I reattached the tie rod ends to the center link and as I had read before, people mentioned having to significantly lengthen the drivers side and shortening the passenger side tierods, I too was looking at the same issue. I decided to clock the pitman arm one tooth towards the driver side of the car. This put everything right where it needed to be. My tie rods are back to being equal length, my center link is parallel to the ground and crossmember and all of the joints fit together by hand with no forcing due to odd angles.







With all that said, the car handled really well with minimal bump steer if any that I noticed, although at high way speeds the steering was a little too easy. So I bought the Borgeson p/s pump pressure reducing kit which shims the flow valve orifice to lower the pump pressure. This helped put a little more resistance in the steering at highway speeds, although low speed steering feels closer to manual steering than power steering. I did put on nearly 1500 miles with this setup and it worked good other than low speed maneuvering. The shims seemed like a band-aid solution though, so last week I removed the p/s pump shims, ordered some new upper control arms which I'll put in this weekend, and hopefully with the increased caster, this will put me where I want to be. I will update on my findings once I get re-aligned.


'62 Impala


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2850
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
04-12-16 05:06 PM - Post#2621206    
    In response to japete92

  • japete92 Said:
...It is imperative to align the car to the new spec for the control arms; stock alignment no longer works....



I have Ridetech's front suspension (control arms, sway bar, air bags). Have the Borgeson 600. Just ordered this kit (minus the sway bar, etc).

Maybe if I check my docs for the Ridetech stuff I have installed I will find it, but assuming it isn't there (I don't recall seeing it)...how do we know the 'new spec' for control arms for the alignment?




1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
04-12-16 05:50 PM - Post#2621224    
    In response to Slick62

Let me know what control arms you get bud. I am on a tight budget as I just installed a new Roller engine in my 61. I would like to get a good, but cheap set. Will it improve alot if I just swap out the uppers for tubulars. Thanks in advance



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
04-12-16 06:44 PM - Post#2621245    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

  • 56_Kruiser Said:
  • japete92 Said:
...It is imperative to align the car to the new spec for the control arms; stock alignment no longer works....



I have Ridetech's front suspension (control arms, sway bar, air bags). Have the Borgeson 600. Just ordered this kit (minus the sway bar, etc).

Maybe if I check my docs for the Ridetech stuff I have installed I will find it, but assuming it isn't there (I don't recall seeing it)...how do we know the 'new spec' for control arms for the alignment?






I have no experience with Ridetech, they may have a tech help number to call, or a tech support section on their web site.

The upper control arms I bought from Global West had new specs for caster, camber and toe listed in the instructions that were packed in the box.





 
1963SBHD 
Contributor
Posts: 832
1963SBHD
Loc: south carolina
Reg: 09-01-11
04-12-16 09:49 PM - Post#2621271    
    In response to japete92

MAYBE THOSE Global West NUMBERS would get it close enough to "fine tune" the alignment. Heck they might even be right on the money ...but with Murphys law..who knows. Feel the GW tech support guys/gals are better at figuring out than most places sorting out installs.
Michael J.



 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-13-16 03:39 AM - Post#2621284    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

  • 56_Kruiser Said:


I have Ridetech's front suspension (control arms, sway bar, air bags). Have the Borgeson 600. Just ordered this kit (minus the sway bar, etc).




I'm curious to see if you sway bar will fit with this bump steer kit. Is it in the same position as the the GW sway bar?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2850
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
04-13-16 08:35 AM - Post#2621345    
    In response to kingkreeton

  • kingkreeton Said:
I'm curious to see if you sway bar will fit with this bump steer kit. Is it in the same position as the the GW sway bar?



Well, if it doesn't I have a problem. I have no idea where GW's sway bar mounts up, so I can't comment. Here's a couple pics:















1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
1963SBHD 
Contributor
Posts: 832
1963SBHD
Loc: south carolina
Reg: 09-01-11
04-13-16 12:04 PM - Post#2621371    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

It's supposed to mount IN FRONT of the kit with 2 NEW holes being drilled as it applies the control from the front in the new configuration. CHECK OUT THE VIDEO of the PARTS discussion. I think yours will work...ask the tech folks at GW if yours will work/or be modified to work with the bumpsteer kit




 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-13-16 01:18 PM - Post#2621387    
    In response to kingkreeton

Just picked up my car from the alignment shop and I couldn't be more pleased. It is literally a night and day difference from before. I am extremely excited figuring I haven't even installed the sway bar yet. The wandering and unsafe feeling while driving is completely gone. I cruised at 35mph - 60mph on the way home and hit numerous imperfections on the road with no issues.

I really like the rake of the car as well with the new front springs. I will throw the sway bar on at some point this weekend and let you know my final results and thoughts of that part of the installation.

I am stoked with the results !!!



Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 04-13-16 01:19 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
TEXAS 62 
Contributor
Posts: 143
TEXAS 62
Loc: Crowley TX.
Reg: 08-26-13
04-13-16 02:07 PM - Post#2621395    
    In response to kingkreeton

Glad to hear that it works good



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
04-13-16 02:53 PM - Post#2621407    
    In response to kingkreeton

  • kingkreeton Said:
Just picked up my car from the alignment shop and I couldn't be more pleased. It is literally a night and day difference from before. I am extremely excited figuring I haven't even installed the sway bar yet. The wandering and unsafe feeling while driving is completely gone. I cruised at 35mph - 60mph on the way home and hit numerous imperfections on the road with no issues.

I really like the rake of the car as well with the new front springs. I will throw the sway bar on at some point this weekend and let you know my final results and thoughts of that part of the installation.

I am stoked with the results !!!





Great!

The last piece to my 'puzzle' was the GW sway bar. I drove my car all last summer (and thru the winter) with the new steering box, new upper control arms, a 'proper' alignment, and the stock sway bar. The steering was 'sensitive' to steering inputs and I had to 'learn' the proper 'touch' with the wheel. I got very good with it.

Regardless of how 'good' I got, during turns the car's roll (and weight transfer) would cause some (slight) over steer. I would feel the roll first followed by the slight 'over steer. A 'controlled' correction from the steering wheel would keep the car going where I wanted. I could have kept it that way and been very satisfied. But, I decided to add the GW sway bar because I hoped it would reduce the roll and therefore the over steer. It worked as intended. The car still rolls under 'normal' steering, but not enough to take the car off my intended line.

I chose the sway bar over stiffer shocks and springs because the car's 'ride' was where I wanted it to be.

I'm going to drive the car in its current configuration at least until next spring. IF I want 'better', I'll address the back end, I'll consider a rear sway bar. The rear end is NOT acting abnormally. I just MAY (huge MAY) attempt improvement.





 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2850
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
04-13-16 05:08 PM - Post#2621441    
    In response to 1963SBHD

  • 1963SBHD Said:
It's supposed to mount IN FRONT of the kit with 2 NEW holes being drilled as it applies the control from the front in the new configuration. CHECK OUT THE VIDEO of the PARTS discussion. I think yours will work...ask the tech folks at GW if yours will work/or be modified to work with the bumpsteer kit




Maybe you can't tell from the picture. Mine IS in front.

I told them what I have when I ordered, and they said it was fine, and told me to order the ST5964 kit .

I will give them a call to validate that I'm OK.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
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