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 Page 2 of 2 <12
Username Post: 53 Chevy 210 project        (Topic#331020)
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-14-17 06:28 AM - Post#2717881    
    In response to postalcop

Not much to report. Monday I drove to a salvage yard to look for an engine. Found a 2002 Yukon Denali with 197,000 miles on it with the 6.0L. They wanted $1,000 for it and $300 for a transmission. It's a lot of miles but it was clean and sounded really good. Still looking though.
I got the other door wire brushed and for a small spot that is rusted through. Not a big deal. I got the fuel door and a couple other pieces sandblasted and primered.







53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-26-17 08:43 AM - Post#2719032    
    In response to postalcop

Ok, got a few more things done last week. Nothing too exciting. I got the insides of the doors primered with the epoxy primer. I also got the steering column pulled out of the car as well as the Rebel wiring harness I had installed a couple years ago. I'm going to be buying a new wire harness as the one I got doesn't have everything I wanted. That's what I get for trying to save a few dollars.







I also calked the seams on the floor.



And now for the moment you all have been waiting for, I finally got a motor. This is a 6.0L LQ4 out of an 04 Chevy van with 158,000 miles. This engine is rated at 300hp and 360 lbs. ft of torque. We bought it for $1575 and it came with everything, including the rear O2 sensors. I am not rebuilding it. If money allows I might get a different set of heads, and possibly a cam but as of right now I am planning on leaving the engine stock and see how the car handles it with the stock width leaf springs and S-10 rear end. I am planning on getting a set of headers for it which will get me a few more HP.



If anybody ever has any questions, comments or concerns about what I am doing or why I did something the way I did, please feel free to ask. I can take criticism pretty well too. I am by no means a professional on restoring cars. This a hobby for me.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-28-17 05:10 PM - Post#2719255    
    In response to postalcop

Went to the shop on Tuesday and removed the wiring harness from the engine with a little help from my 12 year old. I took the harness home since I have a ping pong table that will serve well while I customize the harness.



Looks much nicer without all the wires.





53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
01-05-18 05:04 PM - Post#2720148    
    In response to postalcop

I started tearing apart the wire harness this week. I hurt my back on Tuesday so that really slowed me down this week. I did manage to get almost all the wire eliminated that I don't need. There are a few I want to double check before I take them off that go to the AC compressor.



This plug is inside the fuse box that sits under the hood. The ink wires are 12v+ that go to various things like the O2 sensors and injectors. The other colors go to things like relays. The big purple wire will go from the battery to the starter.



This is what I pulled out.



And this is where I am at right now. I need to wrap a few areas with electrical tape to hold it together. I will then need to get the motor mounted in the car so I can figure out how I am going to route the wires and where I will mount the PCM.



53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
nightliner 
Poster
Posts: 13

Age: 34
Loc: Hannover, Germany
Reg: 08-23-16
01-09-18 01:24 AM - Post#2720530    
    In response to postalcop

thats crank, this is my personal nightmare. great that you are do this in silent hours.
cool project

Enjoy every ride, every day


 
Dean50 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1287
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
01-31-18 01:53 AM - Post#2722817    
    In response to postalcop

Coming together very nicely. Gonna be a nice driving car.

Dean50



 
1953 Chevy 210 4-dr 
Poster
Posts: 7

Loc: Cape Town, South Africa
Reg: 06-11-18
06-11-18 12:55 AM - Post#2736564    
    In response to postalcop

Hi

I like your car in black!

Any idea where I can find a new replacement set of quarter panel & mid + lower door chrome fender strips for a 1953 210 4-dr?

There are incomplete sets on Ebay occasionally but I would like to try a get a complete set if possible.

Can you advise? Where did you get yours from, I see you have a complete set on your car albeit in 2-door variation.



 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
10-07-18 06:50 PM - Post#2748076    
    In response to postalcop

Wow. Last update I gave you guys was in January. Well, I get lazy when when it comes to these updates. Good news is I have been working on her this year and I will get you guys up to speed. A lot of learning steps to share so you guys may be able to avoid some of the mistakes I made. So let's start where I left off.

This is the initial fitting of the engine. It was nice to finally see a motor on the frame.



So here is the engine with the body. Notice how high the engine is sitting. We mounted the engine as far back as we could and thought we were going to be good. My dad started talking about putting AC in the car so we have the engine sitting as low as we could with leaving the AC compressor in the factory location on the bottom of the engine. Mistake number one was not calling vintage air to verify if the factory compressor would work. It apparently won't. You have to get a Sanden compressor to use with their system. Had I known this, I would have mounted the engine lower to begin with.


These are the universal LS motor mounts I bought off Speedway motors. You just have to cut them down to what you need. They worked out very well.



This is the initial installment of the motor mounts. Mistake number two: We thought the engine was exactly where we needed it and welded the mounts solid. Don't do what I did. Just tack weld them in place and fit test fenders and radiator.



This shows I had the engine sitting as far back as I could set it.



Mistake three is a continuation of mistake two. We put the radiator in place and discovered there was not enough room for my electric fan. DOH! We also realized the opening for the intake manifold was directly across from the radiator hose. No way that was going to work.





So guess what I got to do. Yep, cut the motor mounts off and try again. Once I found out I would be using an aftermarket AC compressor, that meant we could lower the engine and move it back more.

So that is what we did. So something I learned about these LS motors if the heads are lightly offset. The passenger side sits about an inch further back than the driver side. so this is what I ended up with.



I had to cut the fire wall and basically knock it inward. It wasn't hard to do and turned out really nice.





Since I am putting in a Vintage Air system I needed to fill in my holes on the firewall that I already had son nicely primered.








53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


Edited by postalcop on 10-08-18 06:58 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
tommy49 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2428
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
10-08-18 01:44 AM - Post#2748094    
    In response to postalcop

Good info on your LS install, especially about the factory AC compressor. Nice work. Thanks for posting.

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 55 235, 700r4, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...



 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
10-08-18 07:41 PM - Post#2748185    
    In response to tommy49

Thanks Tommy. I can't wait to see how she runs.

More photos from earlier this year.

I was debating on whether to get headers of exhaust manifolds. I could have used the truck manifolds but, honestly, they were old and ugly. I have read that Sanderson makes headers that are supposed to fit these cars but they are over $500. Also the more research I have done, it seems that shorty headers are almost no better than using factory manifolds.
Dad and I went to a swap meet in March and found a set of C5 corvette manifolds for $40 we thought would work since they dumped in the center. The passenger side was perfect but the driver side dumped right on top of my steering.



Well, I sold them on ebay for $150 and found a set of new LS3 exhaust manifolds for $100. WIN



Got new fuel pump installed in the gas tank. Bought it from tanks inc.



Got the frame painted where the motor mounts were welded on.



This is the AC compressor mount I ordered from ICT billet. Very nicely made. The only problem is I will have to relocate my battery.



This is how the engine is sitting now. We lowered it about 3 inches from where we originally had it.



The only concern I had when we lowered it was the truck oil pan. There are other shallower pan options but since I'm not dropping the car any lower than is already is, I'm happy with the ground clearance, which is between 5 and 6 inches.



Part of the body supports had already been trimmed as this car already had a V8 in it. I had to trim some more to make room for the LS3 exhaust manifolds.





53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


Edited by postalcop on 10-08-18 07:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
10-09-18 04:43 PM - Post#2748270    
    In response to postalcop

I did not like how my brakes were stopping the car or the lack there of. I had a power brake booster and master cylinder out of a 87 Fiero and it stopped fine on level ground or up hill, but going downhill I had to stand on the brakes long before the stop. Not sure it is was the 4 drums but I figured having disc in the front was going to help.

Well since this engine came out of a van, the accessories were all wrong for my car. I would have been better off getting a truck engine. One of the things I needed to change was the power steering pump. I went to pick n pull and found what I needed. I didn't pay too much attention at first since I'm not a mechanic but I found out this pump had an extra line on it for hydroboost. That got me thinking. I went back to the junkyard and found a hydroboost, master cylinder and brake pedal assembly out of a 2005 Chevy van. I found a good spot on the firewall to mount it and the pedal looks like it belongs there.









I still need to make a bracket or something to stiffen up the pedal assembly.




53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 139
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
10-11-18 08:10 PM - Post#2748470    
    In response to postalcop

I did not like where the pedal was sitting. It was too close to the driver for me. I opted to cut the pedal off and move it back about an inch and a half. I like where it is sitting now.









A couple of weeks ago I bought a set of front seats out of a 2001 Chevy pick in really good condition for $58. I saw how they turned out on Tommy49's car and they looked good. I put the driver's seat in my car and it sat about 2 inches too high for me.I felt like it was going to be more work than I wanted to do to modify the floor to make them fit. I ended up selling them for $200.



Last week I ran to pick n pull and started looking for Chrysler Sebring seats out of a convertible. From what I read, the easiest ones to wire up are from 96-98. Everything at pick n pull was 2001 and newer. However, I found a 2005 that had manual seats. They were also in really good shape and were grey which is the color I was planning for the interior anyway.



These sit lower, pretty much the same height as the bench. I think I have a good idea on how to mount them.



Tuesday I pretty much ran out of things to do on the car because I really needed the Vintage Air system so I could figure out what holes I needed to make in the firewall and I didn't have the metal to make brackets for the seats.
Dad got the jobs finished he needed to, so we went to Old Dog speed shop here in St. Louis. They are the closest authorized dealer in my area. $1775 later, dad got me my Vintage Air system, a pair of front shocks, brake lines and transmission lines. Thanks Dad!



I also needed a radiator support since the previous owner cut the bottom of the support out. Wednesday I ran to a junkyard that had cars from the 50s to the 80s. There was a 53, 54 and a 52 Chevy. The 52 had a good radiator support, the 53 had the driver side wiper escutcheon and the 54 had the passenger side wiper escutcheon. $45 for all three pieces.

Support after sandblasting it.



Got the support and a couple other pieces primered.



I also had to fill in some holes the previous owner made when he put some after market wipers on.



The escutcheons aren't in great shape but they will at least let me get my wiper assembly put together so I can see how everything fits.




53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
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