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 Page 57 of 57 « First<54555657
Username Post: 56_Kruiser's Build Thread - '61 BelAir Bubbletop        (Topic#302726)
Tri5man 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3950
Tri5man
Loc: Possums Crotch, KY
Reg: 06-26-07
11-19-19 09:09 PM - Post#2780561    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Roger, how is your sale progressing? How has the response been from your Facebook ads?



 


56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-20-19 03:08 PM - Post#2780612    
    In response to Tri5man

Haven't been trying very hard to sell I did the one FB post. It generated a lot of compliments, a bit of controversy over whether it should be priced like it was.

Got a couple offers that involved a trade. Not interested in trades.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-20-19 03:10 PM - Post#2780614    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I got the fitting today. But (there's awlays a but, isn't there?).

The threads are only 3/8" in depth. So it completely screws into the inlet, never tightens. I expect it would leak.

Wondering now if there is a thread sealer that would work with it.

[EDIT]
I have decided I am going to siphon the gas out of the tank, fully pull it, and rotate the pump.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 11-20-19 05:28 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Aaronbang 
Poster
Posts: 50

Age: 56
Loc: Visalia,CA
Reg: 08-13-14
11-21-19 10:31 AM - Post#2780662    
    In response to turbo38s10

I like that better than the mess I came up with.
61 Project


If a hammer can't fix it, it really IS broken


Edited by Aaronbang on 11-21-19 11:16 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1837
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-21-19 11:24 AM - Post#2780670    
    In response to Aaronbang

That picture in your link was how I was going to do it at first and then I saw the video from Speedeway and went their way. Glad I did.



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-21-19 05:48 PM - Post#2780700    
    In response to turbo38s10

Finished modifying the direction the hoses face, and it'll work out. The video drove it home.

Too bad I didn't see that earlier. But all in all, wasn't too big a deal.

One thing funny: I took it for a drive (before I knew of the leak), and thought I was losing my mind. I drove up toward Jax and back. Shouldn't have used much gas...maybe a 50 mile round trip. It used over a half tank. I thought maybe I misread the gauge. But after finding this leak, I realize that was what about emptied my tank.


1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1837
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-22-19 06:21 AM - Post#2780732    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Glad it all worked out.



 
turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1837
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-22-19 01:25 PM - Post#2780768    
    In response to turbo38s10

Here is the link for the tank pump installation in case anyone needs it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tanks-Inc-TM31-T-EF...



 
61_flattop 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17

Reg: 06-07-20
06-09-20 10:55 PM - Post#2796047    
    In response to gofastwclass

Yeah, I know I am replying on a thread 4 years old, but I've spent the last 4 days, like 50+ hours reading this. I am wondering if you ever got your bump steer kit form GW? Things havent changed with them. I am going 2 months waiting on lower arms. Yeah, its the middle of a world wide pandemic, but even last year when I ordered the bump steer kit and upper arms, it took weeks and weeks to get "in stock" parts. Just earlier today I was asking myself, how in the hell do companies stay in business, financially, like this? GW doesnt charge you until they ship. Any feed back on the system? Are you using their control arms? What radiator did you use? I am going all GW front and back coil overs. I even ordered my ford 9" from them like 3 weeks ago. Maybe in 4 years Ill have my parts. lol

1961 Biscayne


 
kingkreeton 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1451
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
06-10-20 05:06 AM - Post#2796056    
    In response to 61_flattop

I'm sure Roger will chime in soon but GW's bump steer kit is legit. I did a full write up on it a few years ago if you are looking for more time to kill with reading.

https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...

It's been over 4 years and still rides great. I did end up upgrading my radiator to:

CU-70203 - Performance Fit Radiator Combos. I got it from Summit and it fits great.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 06-10-20 05:07 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
61_flattop 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17

Reg: 06-07-20
06-10-20 06:10 PM - Post#2796116    
    In response to kingkreeton

Shane, I have actually read your thread more than once on the GW kit. I have been researching and researching steering and suspension for quite a while now. I went with a Cold Case radiator and dual fan set up. It looks like the only one with enough of a notch to clear the steering box. Long story short, still waiting on my lower arms from GW to finish putting it all together.

1961 Biscayne


 
61_flattop 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17

Reg: 06-07-20
06-10-20 06:31 PM - Post#2796118    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Hey Kruiser, I just spent 4 days and who knows how many hours reading your build from the building. Yeah, sucked having no pictures. Thank you for taking all the extra time to make this thread, I wonder if you calculated all that time into your build? OVER THE TOP is how I would describe your car. I just might have given up right after you drove over your Hood. TBH I dont even want your skill level. I can do simple bolt on stuff, such as steering and suspension upgrades and some wiring, but swapping engines, transmissions and figuring out all that geometry, I will be "farming" that out.

The Guard Dog key-less start system is now high on my list. I think your final video of how yours works is what lead me to your thread.

Was wondering if you sold the car, or decided to keep it.

This isnt the first build thread I have read, and as always, its like shoot, I dont want the "story" to end.

1961 Biscayne


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-14-20 05:11 PM - Post#2805465    
    In response to 61_flattop

  • 61_flattop Said:
Hey Kruiser, I just spent 4 days and who knows how many hours reading your build from the building. Yeah, sucked having no pictures. Thank you for taking all the extra time to make this thread, I wonder if you calculated all that time into your build? OVER THE TOP is how I would describe your car. I just might have given up right after you drove over your Hood. TBH I dont even want your skill level. I can do simple bolt on stuff, such as steering and suspension upgrades and some wiring, but swapping engines, transmissions and figuring out all that geometry, I will be "farming" that out.

The Guard Dog key-less start system is now high on my list. I think your final video of how yours works is what lead me to your thread.

Was wondering if you sold the car, or decided to keep it.

This isnt the first build thread I have read, and as always, its like shoot, I dont want the "story" to end.



I apologize for being soooo sloooooww to get back to you. I've been away from the site for a while.

I have not sold the car, although I do plan to. I put it on Marketplace a while back. It got lots of cudos, some saying it was way too expensive (119K), and others saying "Look at that work. It's expensive to do. It should bring that".

At any rate, I've been working on improving the cruise control. I believe I have accomplished that.

Bad news to report
I've been planning on working on the poor alignment on the passenger door.

At the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville last year, I showed the door issues to a friend, who owns and operates a hotrod shop in Blue Springs. He said that often when he sees issues with the door being out a bit, it is due to the door panels being too thick, and keeping it from closing good. I thought, that's a good point.

I've had the car tied up with getting the cruise working (that is a long story, I'll go into later). So it's home last weekend, and today I pulled the door panels. They have indentions in them where they are contacting door edge, etc. The driver's door does close and align better with the panel off.

Sad story on the passenger side. Maddening story...

So I was realizing that the door seemed to be dropping down at the back. I had to drop the whatchamacallit that the locks into. But it was obviously still a problem, as it did not close easily into it.

Tonight after taking off the door panel, I took off that whatchamacallit, and the bottom of the door was dragging on the top of the rocker.

WTF! I thought it must be loose. I grabbed it and strained trying to lift it...no go.

So I decided to head in for the night, and what do you know...the front of the door is contacting the lower back of the front fender, and it chipped a bunch of paint off. I may not sleep tonight

So, now I have the door panels to have some adjusting to be done; and I have a fender to paint.

If I am going to sell this car, I want it to be right. Those two things are all I do have to do. I have worked out all other 'new build bugs'.






1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3596

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
10-14-20 06:08 PM - Post#2805469    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

This most often happens when a door from one car is installed on another car. Back in the early 1960's when I worked in a body shop that specialized in repairing totalled wrecks that were purchased from the wrecking yard, it was common to purchase the car with all the needed parts to do the repair. We always tried to get them off of parted out cars that were the same color and model. Back then, I doubt that anyone ever thought about what assembly plant a car came from. Often, the doors didn't fit properly, so we would install the door with the nose off, and align the door to the rear quarter, and make sure that the lines were good, and that it closed and latched properly. Then the nose was installed, and every attempt was made to align the fenders with the front edge of the door, and have acceptable gaps. Sometimes this just wasn't possible, so we would grind the edge of the door back to the point that the gap was uniform from top to bottom. This fitting of the fender to the door was time consuming, but had to be done well in order to sell the car as used, but the current model year. Once the door gap was proper by grinding, we would scribe a line down the door 1/8" (+-) and gring it back to that point. Then another 1/8" line was scribed again, and this was the "guide" line. The edge of the door was then welded, ground smooth, and test fitted. Sometimes it took some additional grinding and welding to get it to where it had to be. You have to remember, back then labor was cheap, and parts were expensive. This is how we did it back then, and I see it being done this way in restoration shops when they run into the same problems. Did you fit the doors before you installed the nose? I believe that at the factory they did the same thing, fitted the doors, and then the nose. It is just that they weren't as particular back then with a production car as we are with our restoration cars today.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-14-20 06:23 PM - Post#2805472    
    In response to junky

Interesting information.

Yes I did do it the way you say, which is with the front end off I mounted the doors and align them. the only thing that I had a problem with on the passenger door was that it would be aligned good at the top but at the very bottom at the back it was out a little bit. I believe I even did a video about it at the time. It was like I needed to put a 2x4 in the top of the door and push hard at the bottom and kind of bend it in at the bottom. Of course, I never did anything like that. My plan was to contact a guy that lives down here that's an old-timer that used to work with that kind of stuff. But I thought I would first pull the door panels and so forth as I listed above and now I've got what I've got.

Fast forward to now, and the door seems to have dropped. It definitely was not installed that way.

So I'm thinking I need to get it lined up as good as I can and then maybe take it to that guy I've heard about, if he would even interest in it. I'm not quite sure what it'll take to get it right, but repainting doors and fenders is not something I look forward to being in my future.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3596

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
10-14-20 11:10 PM - Post#2805487    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

In the old days, we would say, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer." Your thoughts with the piece of 2x4 is something that we did when a door didn't fit the way it should. Look at there it has to go, and then put the wood in the appropriate place, and push as hard as you can. I can remember a hunk of wood with a blanket under it being hit by a large sledge hammer to take a bend out of a hood that was caused by a stiff hinge. The old timers knew how to use brute force to make something move, just to where they wanted it to go.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-15-20 05:48 AM - Post#2805500    
    In response to junky

Yeah, the board process is why I've been planning on meeting with the old timer.

One thing I'm wondering: Should I be able to raise the door w/o pulling the fender? It must come up before I drive it again.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 328
55Brodie
Age: 68
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
10-15-20 10:35 AM - Post#2805514    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Kruiser,

Did you replace your upper hinge?



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-15-20 02:26 PM - Post#2805534    
    In response to 55Brodie

  • 55Brodie Said:
Kruiser,

Did you replace your upper hinge?



I did not replace the hinges themselves. However I did put new hinge pins in when I built the car and finished it 3 years ago.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-15-20 03:08 PM - Post#2805540    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Well well wellllll...

I just tried to raise the door at the back. I attempted this by loosening the bolts through the hinge that attaches to the body. I found some of the bolts loose on the hinge, but not loose enough for me to muscle it to raise. But over time that has allowed it to sag at the back.

The manual is a bit confusing, as it references a picture that does not exist, and they use a bit different terminology in the instructions referencing the hinge than is used in the diagram that does exist for a different adjustment.

At any rate, it made sense to me that if I loosen the bolts where the hinge mounts to the cowl, I could pull up on the door at the back, put something under it to hold in place, then tighten the bolts. Seemed to me that would raise it at the back, and pull the lower front of the door away from the fender in a closed position.

It is closer to the fender and I can't close it.

Wondering if anyone has any tips to straighten me out.

[EDIT]

Well, I did an adjustment again and I got it a lot better where it will close around the fender but it still needs to come up more.

I think I'm going to have to give up on doing it easily and pull the hood and the front fender and get where I can really mess with it. It needs to actually move back a little and up a little more. When I close it right now the bottom of the door drags across the carpet plate.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 10-15-20 05:27 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Verne_Frantz 
Member #574 "61-64 Subject Matter Expert"
Posts: 5863
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
10-15-20 07:46 PM - Post#2805557    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I have 34 hours invested in aligning both doors and front fenders on my '62 because I started like you did, with the fenders on.
Obviously, removing the fenders and then re-installing them (and aligning them) adds considerable time to the job but the door alignment is SOOOOOOO much easier with them off. A floor jack under the bottom of the door helps a lot.

Verne



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-16-20 06:17 AM - Post#2805572    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

  • Verne_Frantz Said:
I have 34 hours invested in aligning both doors and front fenders on my '62 because I started like you did, with the fenders on.
Obviously, removing the fenders and then re-installing them (and aligning them) adds considerable time to the job but the door alignment is SOOOOOOO much easier with them off. A floor jack under the bottom of the door helps a lot.

Verne



[sigh][/sigh] Yup. For sure, it's easier with the front end off. That is the way I did it originally, but apparently failed to tighten the bolts tight enough. I suspect that it's likely that I didn't go back and tighten them good after I was satisfied with the alignment.

I wonder about one thing: I feel sure (but am I wrong?) that the bolts holding the hinges do not have lock washers. Will a good tightening of them when done aligning be good enough? Or do folks add Loctight to the bolts?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
pvs409 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3009
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
10-16-20 07:45 AM - Post#2805582    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

The factory hex bolts to mount the door hinges to the door jamb have serrated edge lock washers attached to each bolt.
The hex head door hinge to door factory mountIng bolts to the door jamb have round star washers attached to each bolt.

I have all my door hinge to door jamb bolts and hinges painted onto the car ( by my body shop guy) after the doors are adjusted to the fender and door opening. The reason is every 62 I have taken apart from by me ( at least 10 62’s) as a original car was painted that way at the factory. A very few times we had to readjust the hinges for the correct fit - then I had have the factory hinge bolts touched up with body color paint.

Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 328
55Brodie
Age: 68
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
10-16-20 09:09 AM - Post#2805590    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I was able to replace both upper hinges and adjust both doors on my 62 Impala with the fenders in place. I used a combination of standard and ratcheting box wrenches, open ends and sockets to do it. I grant you it's a tedious and finicky operation, but doable.



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-16-20 09:25 AM - Post#2805591    
    In response to pvs409

Thanks, Paul.

I have another question: My driver's side rear quarter window needs better fitting.

In the first picture you will notice that at the back of the window does not raise up into the track fully.

In the second picture you see how it ends up at the front of the window.

I ended up with this after trying to improve the original installation.

My question is... Is there a way to focus the adjustment to raise the back better? If I manually raise it up on the back it fits nicely to the front window. I also need to adjust the front window so that it comes up a bit higher in the back... Think of it as leveling the window.

I should add that from the book it says to loosen the two upper front studs and nuts to slide it back. I have tried that, in fact the sliding path is back and then down that's the way the holes drilled. I've got them slid all the way to the back now so not sure what next.

I don't know why the pictures aren't showing up, just the links

[image]https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdv9YXVoVegcVR497[/ima ge]

[image]https://photos.app.goo.gl/6VXFFLBEq7w5xaY79[/ima ge]




1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 10-16-20 09:45 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-16-20 09:53 AM - Post#2805593    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Well I have it where at least it doesn't overlap the front window like that after messing with those two front bolts and the stop. It still does not raise up tight into the back as I would like, that might be the best I can do.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-17-20 09:13 AM - Post#2805646    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

On the driver's side I'm heading this one problem with the rear quarter window. Very short video to demonstrate. Wondering if you have any suggestions.

value="transparent">

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
kingkreeton 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1451
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
10-18-20 08:29 AM - Post#2805688    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Roger, is the window motor designed to stop working when a certain amount of resistance is attained?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2899
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-18-20 04:16 PM - Post#2805717    
    In response to kingkreeton

I'm not sure. I recall asking myself that back when I was fighting to get the windows to roll up all the way, and don't remember the answer... if I got one. I went to the NuRelics site and it does not say.


I have to say, I am not overly pleased with the Nu Relics. They neber have rolled up complete and tight.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 


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