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Username Post: 55 Sport Coupe - 396 LT1 - T56        (Topic#292613)
Bluemeany 
Senior Member
Posts: 831
Bluemeany
Loc: Santa Clara, CA
Reg: 05-31-02
02-07-18 11:22 AM - Post#2723655    
    In response to 2Loose

Link

57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car


 

Ecklers AutoMotive

2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-07-18 11:29 AM - Post#2723657    
    In response to Bluemeany

Not sure I want a non-adjustable PR on there for this setup, and it seems to duplicate my adjustable Aeromotive PR that will be mounted on the firewall next to the motor...

Just trying to figure all this out....





 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-07-18 11:48 AM - Post#2723660    
    In response to 2Loose


I would think this Aeromotive fuel PR valve mounted right next to the motor would provice all the fuel control I need, and I think I can remove the stock, non-adjustable unit on those '93 fuel rails, and eliminate the fuel return directly from the fuel rails, but I am only guessing!

Aeromotive also suggests running two inlets to the fuel rails from a tee, and at the other end of the fuel rails, combine the outlets into the Aeromotive PR and then return to the fuel tank. That seems excessive to me for this particular application, the most likely setup from what I can see now, is to eliminate that stock unit on the fuel rail, plug that hole, and feed the fuel rails inlet directly from the Aeromotive PR unit.

The Aeromotive unit has a vacuum tap available, but I'm thinking I probably won't need to use it. Leave it at atmospheric sensing.



 
WagonCrazy 
"12th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3130
WagonCrazy
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
02-07-18 04:21 PM - Post#2723683    
    In response to 2Loose

  • Quote:
I would think this Aeromotive fuel PR valve mounted right next to the motor would provice all the fuel control I need, and I think I can remove the stock, non-adjustable unit on those '93 fuel rails, and eliminate the fuel return directly from the fuel rails, but I am only guessing!

Aeromotive also suggests running two inlets to the fuel rails from a tee, and at the other end of the fuel rails, combine the outlets into the Aeromotive PR and then return to the fuel tank. That seems excessive to me for this particular application, the most likely setup from what I can see now, is to eliminate that stock unit on the fuel rail, plug that hole, and feed the fuel rails inlet directly from the Aeromotive PR unit.

The Aeromotive unit has a vacuum tap available, but I'm thinking I probably won't need to use it. Leave it at atmospheric sensing.



Your logic is sound to me, but Ive' never plumbed in a system like you have before.

With my LS1 engine, the Fuel Regulator is at the back of the wagon, about a foot forward from the in-tank fuel pump. So the return line is very short. It just allows the properly pressured volume of fuel to travel forward to the engine, with the rest of it going back into the tank (via a short run of line).

Not sure why you would need to plumb your FR at the front by the engine. Why not back by the tank so you can eliminate the length of fuel sloshing between 2 lines along the entire frame rail?

In which case you could eliminate all that junk at the fuel rail as you mentioned.


57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow



Edited by WagonCrazy on 02-07-18 04:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bluemeany 
Senior Member
Posts: 831
Bluemeany
Loc: Santa Clara, CA
Reg: 05-31-02
02-08-18 09:53 AM - Post#2723757    
    In response to 2Loose

It is very interesting to read through your posts on this build and see the problems that come up and your resolve.

I think both your Aeromotive PR or the stock PR, use the vacuum pressure input to properly regulate the fuel flow. Lower vacuum pressure requires higher fuel flow and conversely, higher vacuum pressure requires lower fuel flow.

Regarding the fuel return lines, your sketch in your previous post looks correct. Some of the return fuel dumps into the PR, and extra fuel returns to the tank. All this plumbing is extra work but keeps the system in balanced pressure and proper flow. Shortcutting might create problems IMO. I'm not an expert or have experimented the absolute necessity of the vacuum line or the routing of the return lines. My reasoning is that the factory would not include anything extra unless it is absolutely necessary.

57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car


 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-08-18 10:17 AM - Post#2723760    
    In response to WagonCrazy

I have some of those same questions, am learning, will let you know as/if I can come up with some reasonable information.

The best I've been able to come up with now, is that this speed density efi system depends on very rapid fuel pressure adjustments as the fuel demand at the injectors changes. I'm now advised to set my Aeromotive pressure at 46 psi, mount it close to the motor, leave the Aeromotive vacuum port open to ambient pressure, and as that fixed fuel rail return pressure regulator is set at 42 psi, it constantly bleeds off 4 psi to the return line from the fuel rails, and the vacuum port will increase that slightly when the vacuum drops in the plenum upon acceleration, trying to offset a fuel lean situation at sudden acceleration. Hence the fuel return line at the fuel rails, and the slightly higher pressure feed into the fuel rail system.

At least that's my understanding at the moment, and this is all new info for me, I've never done an efi system before.
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-18-18 06:32 PM - Post#2724814    
    In response to 2Loose

Lots of family visiting, difficult to get any real time out in the shop.

Still checking out the fuel efi setup, just how I want to try it.



 
vabeach56wagon 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3118
vabeach56wagon
Loc: Chesapeake,VA,
Reg: 04-22-02
04-16-18 10:40 AM - Post#2731172    
    In response to 2Loose

Before it's too late, please consider mounting your lines on the exterior of the frame, as the NHRA used to require. I ran a similar AN-8 set on the wagon and crossed over the frame just aft of the upper control arm.

Relocated all brake lines to the outside of the driver side of the frame also.

Original builder of the Gobstomper - '56 210 9 passenger wagon now in other's hands. Current Ride is '69 X33D80 Z28 Camaro



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-06-18 10:59 AM - Post#2736154    
    In response to vabeach56wagon

Too many delays in my life right now, but am getting back on it and will post some pix soon...

I don't plan on racing this car, and with my adult kids and my wife driving it, I wanted the fuel lines protected by the frame rails in the event of a side impact on this car. I'll protect them from the heat, don't think it will be hard to do.

More soon...
Willy

UPDATE:
Finished fitting and hanging the mufflers, a pair of long body 2-1/2" glasspaks, will probably be loud !!!


MORE pix here



Edited by 2Loose on 06-07-18 11:07 AM. Reason for edit: finally got some new pix...

 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-21-18 06:01 PM - Post#2737863    
    In response to 2Loose

Too many delays in my life right now, but am getting back on the '55 HT project.......
Willy

UPDATE:
Finished fitting and hanging the mufflers, a pair of long body 2-1/2" glasspaks, will probably be loud !!!


MORE pix here

As I rebuilt the floors in the '55 HT as piece work, using galv. 20 ga, there's a lot of welding slag, etc underneath needed cleaning up...
So I have been laying under the body on a creeper, grinding, smoothing, seam sealing, and will do a fresh undercoat. Nasty work, head all covered, breathing protection, am covered head to toe with dirt when I scuttle back out from under there...



One of the rear wheel tubs cleaned and ready for seam sealer, then undercoating...





 
WagonCrazy 
"12th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3130
WagonCrazy
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
06-21-18 09:41 PM - Post#2737878    
    In response to 2Loose

Oh man, that's hard work Willy. Especially the part where you have to get under there and then get back up off the ground.

You need a lift and or a rotisserie.

57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
07-30-18 10:02 AM - Post#2741493    
    In response to 2Loose

Spent most of the last month under the body, seam sealing and undercoating, a messy job, so didn't take any pix, just got 'er done....

In the meantime I bought some hi temp exhaust wrap to wrap on the fuel lines to protect them from the exhaust heat....

These fuel lines are inside the frame to protect them from any side collisions
in the event of a severe accident. With the fuel pump in the tank, these lines
would probably be pressurized in an accident, so I want them protected...


I've used this stuff before with good results....


Pulled the fuel lines off the frame and started wrapping....


Got a good tight 50/50 overlap wrap so I would have a double layer,
and used ss tie wire at the start and end, the frame clamps will work
just fine in between....
And I wrapped from the rear to the front so the overlap faces the rear,
less chance of anything catching a wrap edge and trying to pull it loose...


I had to 'adjust' the size of the hangers openings to fit the larger size,
still used some rubber hose under each clamp....


I did this also on my '55 gasser project, "Patches", it worked out just fine....


I also fitted new polyurethane body mounts, getting ready to put the body
back on the frame....

More later....
Aloha,
Willy



 
rcr3 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3037
rcr3
Age: 67
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
07-31-18 01:31 AM - Post#2741539    
    In response to 2Loose

Nice work!

'12 Cruze RS LTZ
'73 Nova hatchback Sold 12/23/12
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'67 Camaro survivor




 
WagonCrazy 
"12th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3130
WagonCrazy
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
07-31-18 05:20 AM - Post#2741549    
    In response to 2Loose

Great to see you out there in the garage "wrenchin" again Willy. Stay with it...she'll be on the road again soon.

57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
07-31-18 02:34 PM - Post#2741591    
    In response to WagonCrazy

  • WagonCrazy Said:
Great to see you out there in the garage "wrenchin" again Willy. Stay with it...she'll be on the road again soon.


^^^^^ X II !!! ^^^^^ I am Butch/56sedandelivery.





 
ROUTE 55 
Contributor
Posts: 383
ROUTE 55
Loc: Minnesota
Reg: 05-17-07
08-16-18 06:12 PM - Post#2743324    
    In response to vabeach56wagon

vabeach56wagon - I just took a look at your picture folder "Chevy's in 60's & 70's" - It sure brought back a ton of great memories.

Love that old-school stuff

Dave

55 Belair HT 396-L78 BB, 4sp Muncie, 12 bolt Posi.


 
vabeach56wagon 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3118
vabeach56wagon
Loc: Chesapeake,VA,
Reg: 04-22-02
08-17-18 05:50 AM - Post#2743365    
    In response to ROUTE 55

Thanks

Original builder of the Gobstomper - '56 210 9 passenger wagon now in other's hands. Current Ride is '69 X33D80 Z28 Camaro



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
09-10-18 07:48 AM - Post#2745799    
    In response to vabeach56wagon

No I haven't forgotten this project, the wife convinced me to go with her on a boat tour of the Great Lakes, we're at some place called Mackinac Island today, up at the top of Lake Michigan, hard to go work on my car when we're doing that !!
Soon though....
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-12-18 07:04 PM - Post#2746006    
    In response to 2Loose

At least you don't have to deal with the "big wind" where you are now. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-07-18 05:01 PM - Post#2748075    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Well, health, family, and travel have taken it's toll on my time, but I'm back at it...
Time to mount the body back on the chassis, and I chose to do it by lifting the chassis up to the body, starting at the rear, and bolting the back end on at the rear most body mounts, then lifting the front, bolting that, then putting in the rest of the bolts. It went pretty smoothly....

It's been sitting like this for some time now, while I completely went through the chassis, and rebuilt the floors, trunk and did the "mini-tubs"....


With jacks under the front of the chassis as well, I was able to pinch the 4x4, lift it up off the steel sawhorses, set the edges of the rear of the body on sawhorses, and remove the 4x4. Then lift the rear of the chassis, aligning the two rear mounting bolts, it all clicked together like magic....


If you look carefully you can see the left rear body mount bolt above, I was able to guide the rear of the chassis so those two rear bolts dropped right into the mounts...


The rear is fitting up just like it's supposed to, somethings gotta be going wrong here, it can't be that easy


Used an engine hoist to lift the front of the chassis up as it needed to go higher than my floor jacks would handle, it all went smooth...


Stuck the front body mount bolts in loosely with nuts, and put it all on jack stands to install the rest of the body mount bolts...


It all went together surprisingly easy and I 'm quite happy with the fit of the rear axle, wheels and tubs...


More later,
Aloha,
Willy

More pix here...



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
10-08-18 05:20 PM - Post#2748177    
    In response to 2Loose

I never noticed it before, but it looks like the firewall had been "massaged" to fit a big block at one time. Still following this build.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-09-18 09:26 AM - Post#2748228    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

When I first put this motor in the car for a trial fit, the tall, custom valve covers hit the firewall when I try to remove them, can't have that...




So some "custom fitting" took place....
Now not a problem getting the valve covers off...



Willy



Edited by 2Loose on 10-10-18 08:57 AM. Reason for edit: Added a pic

 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-10-18 09:13 AM - Post#2748332    
    In response to 2Loose

Realized I forgot to cut an access hole in the floor of the trunk for the "in tank" fuel pump and fuel hose attachments....

Crawled under and took some measurements and taped off the future "hole"...


I was able to slide that 14" carbide cut off blade in on top of the fuel pump, under the trunk floor, and also a wet towel to absorb any sparks, pieces of metal...


This should give me plenty of access....


Smoothed the sharp edges off and put seam sealer in a couple of open spots...


Now to fab a cover....



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-11-18 09:34 AM - Post#2748437    
    In response to 2Loose

Had a little time to run to the shop with a piece of 16 ga. galv. sheet metal I had laying around, and cut it to 10" x 12" to fit over that 8" x 10" hole in the trunk, drilled it on a uniform pattern so it should not matter which side it up when ever I put it on. Had some #14 ss sheet metal screws around, 3/4" and 1" long, a bit over-kill but what the heck...

Drilled the cover with the smaller hole size initially to use as a pattern to drill the trunk floor prior to tapping the sheet metal screws into the floor metal....



Transferred two corner holes to the floor where the cover will go, then redrilled those two corner holes in the cover plate to the larger size for the #14's to slide through, then screwed down the cover with those two corner screws, then drilled the rest of the smaller holes in the floor using the cover as a guide. Then redrilled the cover holes to the larger size for the #14's...


Now I have to go do the initial tap of those #14's into the floor around the hole....
Think I'm gonna need a coupla beers to get this job done....
Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-13-18 09:48 AM - Post#2748571    
    In response to 2Loose

Redrilled the holes in the cover plate to the larger size, tapped the screws into the holes in the floor, painted the cover with black hammer tone, and installed it....





 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-14-18 07:18 PM - Post#2748702    
    In response to 2Loose


Put it back on the floor just to see how she sits...
I love it !!!
Willy

More pix here...



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
10-15-18 10:25 PM - Post#2748794    
    In response to 2Loose

There you go! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.





 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-24-18 12:27 PM - Post#2749446    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Put the Ididit steering column and rag joint in,
hooking up to the 500 steering box,
the locking screws on the upper side of the
rag joint hit the firewall, some clearancing required...



The stock mounting bracket under the dash
is way too large, I'm going to have to modify
it or fab a new one to fit properly...



Yup, going to require some work here...



Any suggestions ?



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
10-28-18 04:45 PM - Post#2749801    
    In response to 2Loose

I have a couple of chrome plated, "split rings" that are joined together with Allen bolts. They measure 2-1/8 to 2-1/4 (depends on direction) inside diameter, and they're 3/4" wide. There are also some rubber cushions to help snug things up and prevent vibration. I have no idea where they came from; they've been in my misc. bolt box for years. If you want to try them, PM me your address and I'll send them out. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
10-30-18 10:27 AM - Post#2750003    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Thanks, Butch, I found the original rubber wrap that goes in under the clamp under the dash, going to try that. Been busy with household chores, hope to get back to the car today...



 

Ecklers AutoMotive

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