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 Page 4 of 9 « First<4567>» Last
Username Post: 55 Sport Coupe - 396 LT1 - T56        (Topic#292613)
chevybow 
Contributor
Posts: 904
chevybow
Loc: Monroe Ga. Red Neck Capi...
Reg: 09-03-04
02-10-15 06:26 AM - Post#2522078    
    In response to 2Loose

Looking good Willie.......Donny



 

Ecklers AutoMotive

2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-11-15 07:20 PM - Post#2529964    
    In response to chevybow

Had a bunch of delays, other business getting in the way, but am back at it again. Flipped it over to the other side to complete the cleaning, removal of odd brackets, welding up some holes, etc....



Posted a bunch of pix on my web page HERE

Next is Ospho treatment, then paint.

Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-17-15 10:02 AM - Post#2531430    
    In response to 2Loose

Finally got the frame scrubbed to my satisfaction, time for the Ospho rust treatment....


Let the Ospho rust treatment (phosphoric acid) dry for two days,
then did a good "rub down" with a dry piece of old bed sheet (no cotton pieces stuck on the frame that way)...


Then brush painted it with Rustoleum Black Hammertone....


I really like this finish. I had previously prepped and painted the engine bay
while the frame was still under the body and I was setting up the motor mounts and suspension....


More later....
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-17-15 08:02 PM - Post#2531594    
    In response to 2Loose

Talking to the tech at Summit Racing, I found out that there are two kinds of QA-1 coil-over shocks, one is called the Proma Star, the other is called the Ultra Ride. The tech said the difference is in the internal valving, the Proma Star is more for racing, the Ultra Ride is more for the street. I'm undecided on which one to order....

And taking measurements on the rear frame and the axle, looks like I could fit either the 17" or the 14" QA-1 in there, so am gonna have to go sit there with some Dire Straights blasting, and a coupla beers, and think this one out a bit....
Willy


Several beers later....

went ahead and ordered the 14" US402 so I can proceed with my rear end setup....
got the roller bearing thingie too that is under the springs...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-us402
W.



Edited by 2Loose on 03-17-15 09:40 PM. Reason for edit: finally ordered....

 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-19-15 10:44 PM - Post#2532233    
    In response to 2Loose

Just ran out of time to post all the pix I have here, but have been setting up the frame to fabricate the mounts for the rear 14" QA1's, and have lots of pix on my web page. Here's one showing how I compressed the rear leaf springs (deleafed down to two springs) down to the point where I want the car to ride when it's all back together, now I will weld up mounts for 14" long QA1's set at 13" long, leaving me with about 2.8" of total compression available out of a total of about 3.8":


Set the frame at 5" clearance at the front cross member:


Pulled the back down until the side rails at the lowest in front were at 5-1/2" off the ground, and at the rear, just in front of the spring mounts, it's 7-3/4" off the ground. A 2-1/4" rake, looks good to me:


At this ride height, with two leafs removed on each side in the rear, the remaining two take on a reverse curve, not sure what this means in terms of long term driving and handling, but I think it will be ok:


All those pix on my web page can be posted on this thread using the function, so am inviting comments from anyone on any of those pix on my web page, and what I am doing with this car.

LINK to my web page....

Aloha,
Willy



Edited by 2Loose on 03-20-15 09:47 AM. Reason for edit: Added more to this post....

 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
03-20-15 07:50 PM - Post#2532517    
    In response to 2Loose

With your "lever and weight setup", I'm surprised you did't have to load the front end down to keep it from wheelin'. You're just having way too much fun Willy. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-21-15 10:58 AM - Post#2532645    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Butch, I couldn't figure out a "quick n easy" way to compress the coil-overs in front down to the "runnin' height", so pulled off the front wheels and set the cross member on two blocks of 2x4 sideways, 3" total, about where my '58 truck is.

Nawww, to low for how I want this car to look, so stuck in another block, now 4-1/2", hmmmm, not bad, maybe another 1/2"?

so got a block that was 3-1/2" high and stuck another 1-1/2" block on top of that, hmmm, 5", looks pretty good there!

So that was a good start, when I started jacking the rear of the frame down as shown, I had watched that front to see if it came up any off the blocks, and was ready to put some weight on if needed, but it stayed put so left it as is.

Maybe I should try to lift the front just for grins to see just how light it is up there with this setup?

Now waiting for my 14" QA-1's to show up so I can fab the mounts.
Aloha,
Willy



 
JustinEntropyECP 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17
JustinEntropyECP
Reg: 03-11-15
03-23-15 09:31 AM - Post#2533245    
    In response to 2Loose

Frame turned out great, and like the color of the car!

Justin Novick


 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
04-05-15 02:25 PM - Post#2537043    
    In response to JustinEntropyECP


A couple of the pix above show the leaf springs set up with two leaves.
I pulled those springs out to prep them for the CalTracs, split them apart and found some pretty bad corrosion on the main leaves:


I don't trust them so I got a pair of new spring packs and started working on those....
Same length as my original springs, and a five pack like the original ones....
These are supposed to be 2" lowered, one immediate difference, is the rear spring eye
on the springs is rolled up instead of down like the originals....








The spring alignment guides are easy to get off, as they are mild steel....




A couple of chisels and they spread apart easily, and can be hammered back into shape easily...




Not sure yet if I'll use two leaves or only one, will do the initial setup with just the main leaf, can always
add one more later, and might just be the short one as the second leaf....


The CalTracs go on the front, and there were these heavy duty poly bushings in the front,
and for some reason there were no bushings in the rear, so pressed out the front bushings,
and pressed them back in the rear....




The CalTracs have a steel bushing that goes in the spring eye in the front, so had to press those in ....


This steel piece fits the rotating piece of the CalTracs, and fits inside the steel bushing I pressed into the front spring eye....




Fitted onto the front of the spring....




Ran into a small problem on the second CalTrac, the smaller steel piece fits too tight into the steel bushing I pressed
into the front eye of the spring, will have to loosen that up a bit, plus where this all mounts under the frame,
needs some modification before it will fit properly.

More later....
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
04-09-15 05:48 PM - Post#2538279    
    In response to 2Loose

Got both pivot pieces on the CalTracs moving smoothly and put them on with the new single leaf springs:


The CalTracs mounts at the axle hit the brake backing plates, will have to grind some clearances into the CalTracks mounts:


Had to cut out the front piece of the steel box the front of the springs mount into to allow the front CalTracs pieces to rotate properly:


This is the rear ride height I'm looking at. The frame is 8" high at the front leaf spring mount:


Might add this small spring upside down to act like an overload spring on severe deflection of the springs:


Only 3-1/2" to the bottom of the CalTracs rotation pieces, not good....


So I think I will move the CalTracs up to the higher hole on the rotation piece and trim off the unneccessary metal, that gives me 5" clearance, I'm a lot happier with that. This will also give me a faster action on the CalTracs, but I don't think that will be a problem:


Now I can setup my QA1's, they are 14" units, with about 3.8" total compression. So if I set them at 13" for this ride height, I'll have about 2.8" compression available, with 1" extension on hard bumps....


I won't be able to determine which coil springs I want to put on the QA1's until the car is back together and I can get the final weight on that rear axle. This ride height is with 100# sitting on the frame, I need to find out the total un-sprung weight back there also. But I'm guessing about 200 to 250# per inch would be about right for those QA1's.

More later,
Willy

link to my 55 HT pages



 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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Reg: 03-17-03
04-09-15 07:39 PM - Post#2538308    
    In response to 2Loose





I've just learned that Calverts disagrees with my mode of installation of my CalTracs....

My reasoning was that with slappers the front of the spring pulls up, causing the slapper to connect with the front of the spring and stop it from moving.

With the CalTracs that same movement in the spring will push the connecting rod forward, rotating the front piece forward and connecting with the frame or a large bolt that I was planning on putting there in that space, weld a large nut on with a hole into the frame to make it adjustable.

From a mechanics of linkages standpoint it should work, just thinking about the Calverts method, I can see that turning it around to the rear for the contact bar, the CalTracs hits the front of the spring and pushes it down, pulling down the front of the frame (in front of the axle) via the spring mounts.

My setup will work, the difference is that the Calverts method contact bar pushes down on the spring, somewhat counteracting the springs tendency to "S" curve, and it pulls down on the frame via the spring, helping to plant the car. My method would also stop the springs from "S" curving, but would tend to give lift to the frame in front of the axle. Both would work, it would be interesting to find out if Calverts ever did any testing both ways to see which is best. Since I'm going to run basically a single leaf with coil-overs, that leaf spring is pretty dang flexible, wonder how much deformity downward that contact bar would put on my single leaf springs? As opposed to contacting and lifting the frame? Bouncing the rear of the frame up and down, and watching the action of the spring and CalTracs, they perform a lot like a mini four link setup. I suspect that with the current setup, dialed up to a solid contact before launch, it would act like a four link. From an engineering standpoint it's a very interesting question.
Hmmmmmm......
(Deep In Thought while Dire Straights rocks on....)
(With a good single malt in hand....)
Willy

Laters....
I'm forging ahead with my method, heck, they don't call me too loose for nothing....
AND, I just might make it work just fine...



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
04-10-15 09:20 AM - Post#2538409    
    In response to 2Loose

Have an email in to Calverts on this, looking forward to how they respond.



 
4dr 57 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4546
4dr 57
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
04-14-15 02:51 AM - Post#2539310    
    In response to 2Loose

that's a good idea however, the contact patch of the bolt (in either direction) is so small that I feared for the spring. This is the main reason I did not choose to use them. my2 cents

Stan

It's all good. mostly




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
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04-27-15 05:40 PM - Post#2543070    
    In response to 4dr 57

Was starting to see that too many problems could develop with the single leaf setup, so I added two more
springs on each side, and my modified CalTracs setup using the frame as the lift point, while from an
engineering standpoint I know it will work, there were possible problems with that approach that I didn't want to deal with. So I turned the rotation pieces around as Calverts intended....



And added the 2-1/2" lowering blocks...


This caused the bottom plate under the springs to hit the rim of the brake drum, so had to trim that a bit....



Checking out different shock mounting locations for the QA1's, this is the location I used when I originally
set up the narrowed 9" rear back quite a few years ago...

I think it will work, but also looking at coming off the rear side of the suspension somewhere....

More Later,
Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
05-05-15 09:40 PM - Post#2544969    
    In response to 2Loose

Did some more work....
Took the lowering blocks out,
moved the U-bolt plates around and welded in a bolt for the lower shock mounts,
and a few other things....

more pics HERE (scroll down)....
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
05-06-15 10:54 PM - Post#2545239    
    In response to 2Loose

Dang Willy, I need some of your energy! Must be something in the Hawaiian water, pineapples, or snakes that helps out with that? Keep up the good work, and posting your projects for all to see. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4365
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
05-09-15 12:02 PM - Post#2545872    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

It's the local herb, Butch, but ya gotta gotta give it respect, occasional use only....

I was in a legal herb shop in Bothel (WA) recently, and tried something called "purple haze", it was definitely comparable to our own backyard product....
But ya gotta give it lots of respect, just like a good single malt....

Did some more work on mounting the rear QA1 coil over shocks:





More Pix Here....

Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
05-09-15 04:33 PM - Post#2545926    
    In response to 2Loose

Not so sure about the "herb"; I was apparently one of the few people against initiative 502 brought by the voters (marijuana and same sex marriage), and was surprised it actually passed. It really does't matter to me personally, and I guess to each their own. I guess the Hawaiian "snakes" comment did't land (no snakes in Hawaii; or so I've been told). It looks like you're working to make the shock bar removable. Keep er' up. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 76
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05-10-15 09:22 AM - Post#2546089    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
...... It looks like you're working to make the shock bar removable. Keep er' up. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.



Yup, "just in case" removable, ya just never know, and two grade 8, 3/8" bolts on each side should be plenty to carry a coupla hunnert lbs of weight on each side, and QA's give me adjustability on rear ride height, and can crank up the preload when necessary to add more capacity easily when carrying extra load (maybe a coupla wide bodies in the back seat?). Will start with 100 lb/inch coils and have a pair of 150's on hand if needed. Just thought I'd try the concept and see just how well it works. I did that on the front end of my solid axle '55 gasser, worked out great!

Of course the adjustability of the shocks are great also, from a soft ride to a pretty firm ride is 16 clicks, try 'em all, you learn a lot about how the car/truck rides by playing with it.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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05-10-15 09:02 PM - Post#2546233    
    In response to 2Loose

Before and After on those rear lower shock mounts:





More pix HERE....


Now to finish off those rear top shock mounts....



 
2Loose 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
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05-15-15 11:00 AM - Post#2547422    
    In response to 2Loose

Cut some 1/4" steel tabs for the top of the shocks....



MORE pix here (pg 9), scroll down....

Have the shock mounts done now, and starting work on a panhard bar for the rear end....







and MORE pix here (pg 10), scroll down....

Then everything comes apart again for paint...
Aloha,
Willy






 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5486
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
05-15-15 02:43 PM - Post#2547455    
    In response to 2Loose

There's that removable shock bar!I guess I thought the coil shocks were going to be used all along; even got used to seeing it mocked up that way, so now it looks "odd". I'm watching this as I may be doing something similar to my Bracket Car (full size 68 Biscayne with coil spring rear end) when I get to that stage, so your photos are helpful. I am Butch/56sedancdelivery.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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05-16-15 02:27 PM - Post#2547669    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

The springs are on order, haven't arrived yet. My buddy had a set of the correct size I could set on there for clearance checking, but they are 250 lb/in, way too stiff for what I'm doing. The new coils should be here any day now....



 
Nick P 
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Posts: 6101
Nick P
Age: 71
Loc: De Queen, Arkansas
Reg: 10-15-03
05-16-15 05:55 PM - Post#2547702    
    In response to 2Loose

250 is about right really




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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05-17-15 01:30 PM - Post#2547831    
    In response to Nick P

I donno Nick, even with two leafs removed from the rear spring pack on each side, it's still pretty stiff. Won't know until I get it back under the body and with all the runnin' gear back on, as to how much more spring I might need on the QA's.

I expect it to sit quite a bit low, will jack it up to the desired ride height with a coupla guys in the car and weigh the additional lift needed from the coils. I'm guessing 200 lbs on each side, 400 total, will be needed, so that's two inches of preload on each side with 100 lb coils.

And if that is correct, but the ride is a bit soft, exchange the 100's for the 150's and preload it by 1-1/3" on each side, same 200 lbs, but a stiffer ride.

Won't know until the very last thing though, full gas tank, etc etc....
Willy



Edited by 2Loose on 05-17-15 01:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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05-17-15 01:42 PM - Post#2547833    
    In response to 2Loose

Me and my buddies sat there for quite awhile last Fri. nite, beer in hand, discussing the panhard bar idea, and ideally where it should be located to get the best results.

One comment about mounting it fairly high like I am proposing, is that between that high mount point on the axle itself, but above the axle on the left side (the frame mount is going to be on the right side), and the two leaf springs down under the axle, the axle is pretty much constrained to only move up and down. As far as rocking the body to one side or the other relative to the axle, not going to happen, the panhard bar, triangulated with the leaf spring mounting points at the axle, will pretty much keep the axle parallel to the frame rails and, much like a sway bar, keep axle movement pretty much just up and down. At least that's what it looks like to us.

The panhard bars I have on the front of my '55 4x4 truck, and the '55 gasser does cause it to corner pretty flat, plus the parallel ladder bars on the rear of the gasser have that effect also, there's not very much body roll at all on hard cornering with the gasser.



 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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05-31-15 11:29 AM - Post#2551165    
    In response to 2Loose

Finally convinced myself to try a sway bar first on the rear axle. But will install the mounts for the panhard bar, and will leave the bar out for now. Then I can always try it out later if I want to, or if I still see tire sidewall rub on the frame with the sway bar. Two bolts and it's in.

Ordered a Hotchkis rear swaybar setup for my '55 and installed it. It's not the standard position for a swaybar, as my coil-over shock position prevents that, but I think this setup will work just fine.





There's a bunch more pix on my website....
Aloha,
Willy


A bunch of pix HERE (scroll down)...



 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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06-11-15 12:20 AM - Post#2553713    
    In response to 2Loose

Have been on the run, two other projects, a 58 chevy pro street truck exhaust rebuild after 17 years, and lotsa minor stuff on the 55 chevy gasser. But did pull the rear parts off the 55 hardtop axle, painted and put back, here's one pix, others at the usual place, scroll down for latest.
Aloha,
Willy

here






 
cnbell 
Deceased
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cnbell
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
06-11-15 09:20 AM - Post#2553818    
    In response to 2Loose

Looking good Willy....

Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell


 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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06-12-15 10:33 AM - Post#2554078    
    In response to cnbell

Started setting up the clutch and tranny to the motor, then will install in the frame....

Found I was missing the flywheel/crank bolts,
and the clutch/flywheel bolts, so have some new ones coming....

Meantime, used some old bolts I had on hand to set it up, also want to put some long style dowel pins in the block, and need to find my clutch alignment tool, it's stashed away somewhere around here....



The original LT1/T56 clutch setup was an external hydraulic slave cylinder with a standard clutch arm and release bearing, I dug around in my storage shed and found the original stuff, the slave cylinder looks pretty messy, I might go check out what a new one would cost....



I also found in my storage shed, this Tilton brand hydraulic release bearing,
but it doesn't fit over the sleeve for the old style release bearing, and it looks like it needs to be mounted some way (see the four mounting holes), and I don't see any easy way to do that....

I'd probably have to take the transmission apart and drill and tap into the front of the tranny case to make it work, and remove that sleeve that is pressed into the front of the case....





More later....
Willy



 

Ecklers AutoMotive

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