 2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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04-07-19 05:42 PM - Post#2763792
In response to 2Loose
I did get a few hours to work on that clutch setup some more...
Finally located a clevis the right size to attach to a 3/8" rod and the clutch pedal...
Ran down about 3" of 3/8" fine thread so I'll have lots of adjustment available...
Looks good to me, will add another hex nut weded to the rod below the thread for a wrench...
Cut and welded an offset from 1/4" scrap to set the "push" point 2-3/4" down
from the pedal pivot, and 2-1/4" over to the left to center on the clutch MC...
Now I need to cut the rod to the correct length and round off the end to match the MC piston...
And I need to learn how to use that bore scope I just bought to check clutch gap, and figure out just where I want to put the access holes...
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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05-12-19 03:18 PM - Post#2766248
In response to 2Loose
Been busy on other projects, but did get some work done on the brakes and the hydraulic clutch setup, here's a few pix:
Got the clutch pedal, clutch mc pushrod dialed in pretty well, now to see how well it really will work with this mc to activate the clutch....
The two bolts holding the offset for the pushrod on the clutch pedal was rubbing on the steering column, so I cut the heads off and welded the bolts in place, works just fine....
Also the upper hole centers the pushrod on the mc piston pretty well, so using that one...
Had to find some an-3 braided brake hose and fittings to extend the short piece I had on the slave cylinder. It ended up too long, so shortened it and changed the 90 at the mc to a 45....
Decided that before I go mounting the clutch mc in place I'd better get the brake lines installed at that mc...
The rear outlet on the proportioning valve had a weird, large thread, but one of my local auto supply houses was able to find a fitting that matched it....
Bought a few 3/16" by 60" hard lines and started fitting them to the chassis, shortening and reflaring with a double flare where necessary...
Attached the brake lines to the frame using pieces of rubber hose and clamps...
The rubber hoses at the brakes are 1980 Camaro, fit perfectly, after I moved the calipers from the rear mounting holes of the spindle mount to the front...
I think they'll be fine that way....
The passenger's side...
I still need to add some more mounting points using the rubber hose and clamps, and still need to put the rear axle hose in, again using one for a 1980 Camaro....
-Willy
More pix here
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 56sedandelivery
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5864
Age: 69
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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05-12-19 05:59 PM - Post#2766257
In response to 2Loose
This is one of those threads I follow religiously. Can't wait for another, "new installment". I like the do-it-yourself, using NO pre-fabbed kits, to put this old Hawaiian 55 Chevrolet back together, into something completely new to Hawaii, and probably anywhere else. I see photos, someone has posted, of the 55, 4 door, Olds powered and blown, Gasser on other sites. Everyone is impressed. Can't wait for the first go-around-the-block ride. Keep it up Willy!
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Edited by 56sedandelivery on 05-15-19 07:35 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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05-13-19 09:39 AM - Post#2766295
In response to 56sedandelivery
I was out driving the '55 gasser, "Patches", yesterday, still is a "gas" to drive it, love that car, the "new" TKO 600 I put in it to replace the Doug Nash 4+1 I kept breaking is not that good, shifts really hard, it feels like the synchro rings are jamming, not sliding past each other smoothly on each shift, but it is driveable, and except for the shifting, a ton of fun to drive...
Willy
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jdk
"12th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 448
Age: 71
Loc: columbus, ohio
Reg: 02-15-10
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05-13-19 02:35 PM - Post#2766310
In response to 2Loose
i have never cared for the shifting of tko's
jim
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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05-14-19 09:43 AM - Post#2766381
In response to jdk
I was thinking there was something wrong with just my TKO600 due to the hard shifting, is this a common problem?? I paid "extra" to get the trans built with the graphite (is that right?) synchro rings, not sure I have described that correctly, and I'm thinking that was a mistake, am considering pulling it apart and rebuilding with brass synchro rings. I've a lot of experience with Muncie's and my old Doug Nash, can't imagine that this TKO will be any harder to work on, and maybe I can improve it....
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jdk
"12th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 448
Age: 71
Loc: columbus, ohio
Reg: 02-15-10
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05-14-19 02:15 PM - Post#2766391
In response to 2Loose
i was told those syncros helped. i never had them
in my tko. i was used to the muncie's and t10. i hated my tko and got rid of it. other people have
had the same feeling about tko. others like them.
jim
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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05-14-19 07:57 PM - Post#2766421
In response to jdk
yup, I agree with every word!
It would be interesting for me to look inside and try to determine why!
The design of the synchro rings in the T10s and Muncies (and the Doug Nash 4+1 I still have)...
They shift great, maybe I can adapt that to this tranny??
Where's the bar....
Miss my chopped panhead, gotta get it running...
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
Some Photos
2Loose Home Page
Chevys:55.Hardtop;55.4drgasser;
55.4x4truck;58.prostreettruck
+57.Olds;70.BuickGS
Avatar:Bill Stinson |
Edited by 2Loose on 05-14-19 08:11 PM. Reason for edit: foggy bottom
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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06-09-19 12:08 PM - Post#2768055
In response to 2Loose
Visiting family, house and yard projects, have slowed down
my progress on the '55, but did get some work done
on the brakes and clutch systems...
Still getting way too many leaks, have had to pull off
just about every one of these steel brake lines and
redo the flares, and try different connectors....
These are various length steel brake lines from NAPA,
but I am getting leaks from just about every one
of their flared ends, it's been a nightmare !!
I've had to reflare and refit every connection at the MC
and proportioning valve....
Front line from the proportioning valve down to a tee,
then off to both front calipers, used hoses for an '80 Camaro,
they fit nicely...
Got the front brakes hooked up and bled, looks good...
Ran two 60" lines along the frame to the rear, had to cut and fit
a short piece in the middle to get it exact...
Got it bled and the pedal feels good, but still chasing a couple of leaks !!
Got the hydraulic clutch bled and working, but the pedal feel is much
heavier than I think it should be, need to check that out...
Lots more pix HERE and HERE
More later....
Willy
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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06-15-19 11:31 AM - Post#2768511
In response to 2Loose
Dug out my valve spring compression gage....
....And used it to press against the clutch pedal,
it's running between 35 and 45 lbs pressure, so I'll use 40 average,
with this system I designed the mechanical leverage factor
is 5.5 to 1, so with 40 lbs at the pedal I'm putting 220 lbs
on the clutch release lever at the slave cylinder...
For this aftermarket '93 LT1 T56 clutch setup I
don know if that is excessive or not. It sure feels like
a lot though....
But I've decided to just leave it and drive it this way and see how it feels...
I still need to setup an adjustable "stop" and install the over-center return
spring on the clutch pedal, and then see how that feels....
More later,
Willy
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56sedandelivery
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5864
Age: 69
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-15-19 07:08 PM - Post#2768527
In response to 2Loose
Dang Willy, I'd be involuntarily committed about now if I was having those issues; well maybe a little bit longer trying, but the results would probably be the same. If this build does't make it into one of the magazines (Hot Rod, Car Craft, Etc.), especially being in "remote" Hawaii, I don't know how that would't be possible. I know you'll get it all figured out; leading the way is always difficult. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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07-03-19 08:18 PM - Post#2769885
In response to 2Loose
Figured out a way to put overnight pressure on the brake pedal, it goes down to the floor overnight, but I can't find any leaks, maybe the master cylinder is leaking back around the pistons internally? It's a dual chamber unit.
Hmmmm....
Tried to hook up the over-center/return spring on the clutch pedal, but can't find the usual anchor up under the dash, as this car was originally an automatic, and was always one until I got it, do ya suppose that anchor for a clutch pedal return spring never got installed at the factory? So I'm going to have to fab something? Once again....
Hmmmm....
Also need to fab an adjustable stop for the up stroke of the clutch pedal....
My fuel tank came supposedly drilled for the fuel gage sender to be mounted on the front side, and was drilled supposedly for a stock '55 sending unit, and the unit I ordered was was supposed to be a stock '55 sending unit, and it doesn't match up to the hole in the tank, more fab work to get it to fit right.....
Am traveling right now so it will be awhile for me to get back to it, but am thinking about how to do these while traveling....
Happy 4th to all....
Willy
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WagonCrazy
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3251
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
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07-06-19 07:41 AM - Post#2770045
In response to 2Loose
Thanks for the updates Willy.
You mentioned earlier: Got the hydraulic clutch bled and working, but the pedal feel is much
heavier than I think it should be, need to check that out...
I too am having a heavier-than-desired clutch pedal with the way I fabbed mine up in the Nomad. I need to get some pics and post them here to compare to yours, but I don't have any offset factor built into the rod mounting point. Just clevis around the pedal about 2 inches below the pedal pivot point. The clutch works fine (when driving it) but the pedal is hard like a truck and I need to re-fab up a way to reduce the amount of foot pressure on the pedal so it feels more like a modern car. Will post some pics of my setup soon, and ask for your advice. Take care, Paul.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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07-26-19 12:17 PM - Post#2771670
In response to WagonCrazy
I got to spend time with 3 of my 4 kids who are up in the Seattle area, 6 grandkids, man they wore me out !!!
Good to be back home and working on the project again, a new fuel filler tube arrived while I was gone, 2" ss supposed to fit right in place on my '55 hardtop, right into the inlet tube on the new fuel tank I had installed before I put the body back on the frame...
Ha, wouldn't fit, too short and some interference from the frame rail....
So tried cutting off a piece that goes into the tank and extending it with some 2" fuel hose I had on hand....
It needs to be about 3" longer at the fuel tank,
so I cut off the O-ring portion and did a trial fit....
It didn't work, the tank inlet is partially below the frame,
I couldn't get the rubber hose to bend that much,
so I bought a 45 deg bend piece of ss 2" pipe
and drew up as accurate a sketch of what needed
to fit where as I could....
......and started cutting to fit....
Cutting by hand with a hack saw gives me the thinnest
cuts when I want precision fitting of the pieces...
Now to cut each piece to get the correct length
in the middle....
This matched my drawing pretty well,
now to tack it together and see how well it fits
in the car and into the fuel tank
It fits quite well, now to weld it up, test for leaks
and paint it...
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5Larry7
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2030
Loc: Dallas, TX
Reg: 05-17-04
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07-26-19 02:25 PM - Post#2771677
In response to 2Loose
Good job!
'57 210, 327 cid, Holley MPFI, 700R4, A/C & more.
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer. |
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WagonCrazy
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3251
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
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07-27-19 09:28 PM - Post#2771770
In response to 2Loose
Love the ingenuity Willy. You made that work well.
I am still interested in what you found out about your stiff clutch pedal and TO bearing setup.
Mines too stiff and the hydraulics stop engaging the TO bearing after driving the Nomad for about 5 to 10 minutes.
Don't want to hijack your thread here...so i'll post my issues soon.
Keep going man. You'll have that car on the road soon.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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08-03-19 03:21 PM - Post#2772335
In response to WagonCrazy
Back on the clutch again....
Tried to install the clutch pedal "over center/return spring" but it was too loose
with the oem anchor, the lower one, so I made up a shorter/adjustable one....
It fits like this (below) with the front hook located so that the pedal pivot
passes through the plane of the springs pull in such a way that
when the pedal is up the spring holds it up, and when the pedal
is depresses the spring assists in pushing against the
mastercylinder. I got it installed and adjusted so that it
feels pretty good....
The clutch pedal needed a stop for when I took my foot
off of it, as the original lever on the right side of the
pedal pivot was not being used, I fabbed an adjustable
stop and put it in there....
A close up....
After aedjusting the push rod for the master cylinder, I had about
a 1/4" of "free play" before the push rod touched anything in the MC,
the over center / return spring is working perfectly to hold the pedal
up against the stop and sitting at the same level as the brake pedal
right next to it.
The brake pedal feels good, and the clutch pedal feels pretty good also,
a slightly heavier clutch pedal feel than the mechanical one in my
'55 gasser, and I think it will be ok....
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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08-10-19 01:25 PM - Post#2772895
In response to 2Loose
Using American Autowire's '55 kit with lots of extra options....
Got the fuse panel mounted and got lost in the directions....
More pix here....
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WagonCrazy
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3251
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
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08-12-19 06:25 AM - Post#2773013
In response to 2Loose
Wiring...a time consuming but gratifying task for sure.
After having done a couple myself, my only reccomendation is to take ONE circuit at a time and wire it up completely. Then go to the next one, then the next one, etc. Following the instructions closely. And keep the other distractions at bay. Should take you a couple of solid "sessions" with your car to be mostly done...if you can focus and keep yourself from being distracted by ANYTHING that comes along. Including beer... 
Great to see you making continual progress Willy. Thanks for posting pics and details. It motivates the rest of us to keep moving forward with our projects.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow
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Edited by WagonCrazy on 08-12-19 06:27 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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498 chevy
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 476
Age: 69
Loc: hayward ca.
Reg: 09-28-07
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08-12-19 08:29 PM - Post#2773100
In response to WagonCrazy
great advice 
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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08-15-19 04:40 PM - Post#2773269
In response to 498 chevy
My new gage system has a computer to operate it that has to be mounted up under the dash somewhere, also the FAST engine computer has to be mounted somewhere up there, was under there looking at possibilities when it dawned on me that I needed to probably install the AC / heating system, and the new under dash windshield wiper system first, and I have not purchased those as yet. So been online looking at possibilities, want to use the AC compressor that came with the motor out of a '93 Camaro, but need the rest of it.
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-04-19 07:52 PM - Post#2774850
In response to 2Loose
Waiting for hardware for under dash install, like AC and wiper hardware, so pulled wire to the rear end, and found the taillight assemblies needed work...
I am going to run these full coverage rear lenses, sort of a '49 Buick taillight replica, or so I'm told...
I'll have to replace the backup light socket with a new socket that will handle both taillight and brake light bulbs...
It shouldn't be a big issue and I think the taillights will look great like this...
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55 Shaker
Member
Posts: 1569
Age: 71
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
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09-05-19 06:59 AM - Post#2774869
In response to 2Loose
My opinion, those tail lights are better  looking than the stock ones. I had some like those on my 55.
| The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!! |
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-05-19 10:12 AM - Post#2774880
In response to 55 Shaker
Here's what that lens looks like on the car...
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-12-19 11:26 AM - Post#2775398
In response to 2Loose
Cleaned up the housings, drilled, tapped, and mounted the lower
sockets to take the 1157 dual circuit LED bulbs....
Have used both white paint and silver paint in the past with good results...
Chose silver for this build....
Hooked up all four circuits, a brake and a running light both
on top and below, flipped off the shop lights, it's bright !!!
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-12-19 11:37 AM - Post#2775399
In response to 2Loose
Here's what those tail light lenses look like originally, a '56 Buick:
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-13-19 10:28 AM - Post#2775462
In response to 2Loose
Decided to just solder the wires at a lot of the connections
and cover the connections with shrink tubing...
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-13-19 11:07 AM - Post#2775464
In response to 2Loose
A box of goodies from Rain Gear for my wipers arrived....
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-15-19 11:53 AM - Post#2775581
In response to 2Loose
Finishing up the tail lights....
Put shrink tubing on the connections,
Pulled the wires through some rubber tubing up to the connections....
And wrapped everythng left exposed with elec. tape....
Now to mount 'em back on and hook up to the harness....
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2Loose
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4477
Age: 78
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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09-21-19 12:38 PM - Post#2776065
In response to 2Loose
I started work installing the new wiper system....
Pulled the old wiper system out of the cowl and out from
under the dash, and started laying out the new parts....
Tried to install the switch, but it spins in the dash,
the original switch is keyed to a slotted hole in the dash
so it won't spin, but the switch provided by RainGear has
flats that do not match up with the hole in the dash,
so it spins easily when I turn the switch on and off....
Not good....
RainGear should have done a much better job providing
a switch that would fit properly in the original '55 dash hole....
Another view
So I cut a disk of 16 ga. galv. and drilled/filed
a hole that fits the new switch nicely....
Now to figure out how to add a tab to that disk
that will key into the slotted hole in the dash,
that will prevent the switch from spinning....
Or maybe I can just glue that disk to the back side of the
dash where the switch fits, will think about that....
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