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Username Post: Left stranded by my 4-wheel drive!        (Topic#234612)
BlackRed 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 76

Reg: 01-16-10
02-03-10 10:07 PM - Post#1856088    
    In response to rem788

Well at $202 for the manual one I would just buy another electric one...I have replaced a few of these before and I believe retail is $185 for the electric one ($89 my cost). If it takes it another 20years to go bad I would say its well worth it. They only take a long time to engage in the cold if they are old.



If you cant fix it with a hammer, you got yourself an electrical problem.

Parts pullers are wire cutting deusche bags.


 
aerosedan42 
Contributor
Posts: 359

Loc: Oregon
Reg: 07-20-08
02-05-10 02:00 PM - Post#1857041    
    In response to BlackRed

If I had to pay $185 for something that could possibly not engage just because it is cold, to me it is worth paying the $20 extra to eliminate the chance of no engagement. I want it to work especially in the cold and don't like the idea of being stuck until the temperature warms up. Also if I can build it myself for less than the $185 then it makes sense to do it to me.



 
nickmac 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1113
nickmac
Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 02-13-07
02-05-10 06:14 PM - Post#1857186    
    In response to aerosedan42

The thermal ones seem to be slow when cold, but the electric ones engage almost instantly.

Dan
'16 Chevy Traverse 3.6 FWD
'04 Chevy K1500 Silverado 5.3 4x4


 
BG 
Contributor
Posts: 728

Reg: 09-12-07
02-05-10 07:12 PM - Post#1857214    
    In response to aerosedan42

It looks like it would be real easy to make something similar to the Posi-Lok. If no one has information they can post I will probably see what I can come up with but I really do not have much time right now to work on it. BG



 
BG 
Contributor
Posts: 728

Reg: 09-12-07
02-12-10 11:09 AM - Post#1861379    
    In response to BG

We are getting snow again so I had to install a new actuator and the 4-wheel drive is working. I am still wanting to build something similar to the posi lok when I get a chance so if anyone has more information on building one maybe you could post it. BG



 
Overkill 
Member
Posts: 82

Loc: Orlando, Fl
Reg: 09-08-05
02-13-10 05:38 AM - Post#1861876    
    In response to BG

I put in the pre-made cable one and love it's reliability. Another benefit to the manual operated one is being able to use 2wd low. Comes in handy sometimes when you're backing a large trailer and such...

Overkill 89 GMC Sierra 3500 7.4L TBI 3spd auto 4X4 Extended Cab Long Bed


 
BG 
Contributor
Posts: 728

Reg: 09-12-07
02-13-10 05:57 AM - Post#1861883    
    In response to Overkill

Is it the Posi Lok brand? If not what brand is it? That's the only one I have seen so far. Thanks, BG



 
Overkill 
Member
Posts: 82

Loc: Orlando, Fl
Reg: 09-08-05
02-13-10 10:48 AM - Post#1862013    
    In response to BG

I believe it was. Very easy to install and very reliable...

Overkill 89 GMC Sierra 3500 7.4L TBI 3spd auto 4X4 Extended Cab Long Bed


 
Matt 
Moderator
Posts: 7803
Matt
Loc: SAV
Reg: 09-26-01
02-17-10 09:26 PM - Post#1864950    
    In response to Overkill

I notice you've been talking about the 4x4 light not coming on. I'd like to chime in on this part, my old Yukon 4x4 light doesn't come on at all but I know the 4wd is working. Don't rely on the light to inform you that it is working. I changed from the thermal to electronic one, and it works perfectly fine in sub-freezing Rochester, NY snowy winters.





 
Wrangler 
Contributor
Posts: 137

Age: 57
Loc: Central WA. state
Reg: 03-29-07
02-18-10 04:07 AM - Post#1865002    
    In response to Matt

When mine went out the light would blink and it would never engage. $80 later and about five minutes under the truck and it works just fine.

If it don't go, chrome it!


 
brainwashed2566 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 83
brainwashed2566
Loc: Idaho
Reg: 02-09-10
02-18-10 06:56 PM - Post#1865428    
    In response to Wrangler

had the same problem on my truck, replaced it with the stock thermal for about 100, but next time I want to get rid of it with this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/POS-600/

-Charlie

If it ain't broken, fix it till it is


 
mr5by5 
Senior Member
Posts: 315
mr5by5
Loc: Hamlin, NY, USA
Reg: 11-21-02
09-13-13 07:20 AM - Post#2381718    
    In response to Matt

Matt;

Saw your post on Chevytalk re: the 4X4 actuator on front axle. Since I live in the Rochester area I thought I would try and reply to you about this! I just bought an 89 GMC 4X4 to plow my driveway. Would like to know where you got the actuator you installed in your GM 4X4 and how much it cost. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks



 
Matt 
Moderator
Posts: 7803
Matt
Loc: SAV
Reg: 09-26-01
09-13-13 10:44 PM - Post#2381926    
    In response to mr5by5

  • mr5by5 Said:
Matt;

Saw your post on Chevytalk re: the 4X4 actuator on front axle. Since I live in the Rochester area I thought I would try and reply to you about this! I just bought an 89 GMC 4X4 to plow my driveway. Would like to know where you got the actuator you installed in your GM 4X4 and how much it cost. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks



I did it myself, it was pretty easy if I recall right. It's been years, I can't recall anything.

The newer 4x4 actuators are plastic, and you can get it from the dealer. My Yukon had a Rancho Sure Shift, but they stopped selling it when GM improved their actuators.

How's Rochester those days? I've not lived there since 2006.



 
JeremyB 
Senior Member
Posts: 752

Reg: 10-31-01
09-14-13 02:42 AM - Post#2381934    
    In response to mr5by5

If it is a 3/4HD model, you can only replace with another thermal actuator. You can buy the actuators at any auto parts store or on ebay or amazon.com



 
Vista Cruiser 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5514
Vista Cruiser
Loc: Erie Canal
Reg: 10-01-99
09-14-13 05:19 AM - Post#2381961    
    In response to JeremyB

Hey Rochester, does your truck have a Fisher Speedcast? The mount with the bars that Go back to the frame under the seat? If so, I have some advice based on experience.

And that is, box the truck frame where the plow plates mount on, and run a piece of channel across between them.

That was the death of my 88. The plow frame fatigues the truck frame and then a hard bank finishes it off.

I mounted that Fisher on my F150 with an electric pump.





 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4239
bowtie44s
Age: 36
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
09-14-13 07:10 AM - Post#2381985    
    In response to mr5by5

I like the posi lok. If you don't smoke, here is what I did to hide that hideous red button.

Just open the ash tray to engage it, close it in 2wd.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Age: 46
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
09-14-13 07:17 AM - Post#2381986    
    In response to bowtie44s

I like the idea of the Posi-Lok, but I can't bring myself to pay $200 for a manual choke cable.

99 K3500 RCLB


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4239
bowtie44s
Age: 36
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
09-14-13 07:28 AM - Post#2381991    
    In response to 454cid

It's pricey, but in my opinion it's worth it. As stated above from a few years ago the 2wd low range is nice when backing my 4500lb trailer loaded with 12000lb. It's a bit more than a manual choke cable. LMC truck has a conversion to convert it to the newer electronic but that's $169.95 and the actuator is another $169.95. $200 is a lot better than $340 and that thermal actuator HAS to be swapped. It's terrible in the snow. There is another option. There is an actuator eliminator which will lock your axle all the time. I don't know if it would hurt fuel mileage or not.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Age: 46
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
09-14-13 08:48 AM - Post#2382004    
    In response to bowtie44s

I thought switching was as simple as bolting the new electric version in?

I wonder if mine is thermal. Being a 99 I would think it would be electric, but it's so slow! My 81 Chevy LUV had manual hubs, and as as soon as you were finished shifting the transfercase, you were in 4wd. I have no idea why GM went with the disconnect in the differential.

99 K3500 RCLB


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4239
bowtie44s
Age: 36
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
09-14-13 09:28 AM - Post#2382013    
    In response to 454cid

The "kit" from lmc truck is a wiring harness. I don't know, maybe you can just switch them. The only thing I could think of is the thermal has to have constant voltage to keep it engaged. When you shut the truck off it disengages (another huge draw back) I would THINK the electric would have voltage one way to engage it then voltage the other way to disengaqe but I don't know for sure. Yes I would think yours should be electric. If you look at the price of a new electric it's really not that much cheaper than a posilok.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Trailblazer WY 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 10-19-16
10-19-16 01:37 PM - Post#2657379    
    In response to BG

....ive got a 1994 full size blazer, 5.7 While engaged in 4h- all tires spin, in 4L, rear turns only.¿. Any comment would be awesome. The 4h/4L indicator orange light comes on properly for both positions. Just no four low on the front....😭




 
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