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Username Post: 66 chevy 2 alignment problems        (Topic#194533)
droptop62ss 
Senior Member
Posts: 240
droptop62ss
Loc: rochester ny
Reg: 04-26-04
07-19-08 07:11 AM - Post#1481008    

Hi,
A friend of mine is having some alignment issues with
his 66 chevy 2 . if you take a sharp turn with the car ,the tires will lean a lot.the top is in ,the bottom is kicked out . now if you back the car up they straighten up.has anyone had this problem before?
Also what headers have you guys been using ?
this car has the stock front sub frame .
We've been looking at the Headman elite headers .
does anyone know of any fitment problems with these ?

Thanks
Andy





 
Ecklers AutoMotive
VintageCarryall 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2634

Loc: Arizona
Reg: 10-08-06
07-20-08 10:40 AM - Post#1481769    
    In response to droptop62ss

  • droptop62ss Said:
Hi,
A friend of mine is having some alignment issues with
his 66 chevy 2 . if you take a sharp turn with the car ,the tires will lean a lot.the top is in ,the bottom is kicked out . now if you back the car up they straighten up.has anyone had this problem before?
Also what headers have you guys been using ?
this car has the stock front sub frame .
We've been looking at the Headman elite headers .
does anyone know of any fitment problems with these ?

Thanks
Andy





Take a hard look at your control arm bushings; left your car up by the unibody or crossmember then shake down the front wheels.

1994 Dodge Caravan SWB 3.3L V6
1962 Studebaker Lark 4 door 350 Chevy/TH350



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
07-20-08 02:10 PM - Post#1481861    
    In response to droptop62ss

I think you probably have problems in the lower inner control arms bushings and eccentrics.

Probably a complete front rebuild is in order. These cars are hard on front components, and they drive horribly when components are worn.



 
droptop62ss 
Senior Member
Posts: 240
droptop62ss
Loc: rochester ny
Reg: 04-26-04
07-20-08 05:06 PM - Post#1481961    
    In response to Rick_L

Hey Guy's ,
thanks for your replies .
We did rebuild the front end new everything all moog parts .the cars been off the road for about three years .all the parts probably got about 1000 miles if their lucky .we added the bearing kit for the idler arm this past winter.he had the car aligned and it's been back to the shop three times .last time the mechanic tacked welded the lower arms so the would stay put but still had the same problem . has anyone used the lock out kit that cpp sells .

Thanks
Andy



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
07-21-08 07:11 AM - Post#1482308    
    In response to droptop62ss

"has anyone used the lock out kit that cpp sells"

I built my own before CPP started selling them. It's like the Global West lock out kit except it has more adjustability than the GW kit.

I had some problems with the cam adjusters slipping. No more.

If backing up cures the problem it almost has to be wear.

Global West also has a bearing kit for the inner end of the control arm. It's not necessary IMO but if one has to replace it, it might be worth considering.




 
Cameo deuce 
Member
Posts: 111
Cameo deuce
Loc: ABQ---NM
Reg: 07-23-06
02-21-09 01:03 AM - Post#1635058    
    In response to Rick_L

After fighting this same issue I decided to use the CPP mini kit. It was pretty simple install and no more alignment problems, all bolt in and biggest mod was blowing of the rivets that held the strut rod brackets..



Edited by Cameo deuce on 02-21-09 01:06 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
63novatuckin20s 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Age: 73
Loc: Chapmansboro Tn.
Reg: 02-20-09
02-23-09 07:37 AM - Post#1636491    
    In response to Cameo deuce

I put the CPP front end under my Nova and the ride quality and handling improved greatly.I would not want to have to go back to stock.

Link to my car pics. http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh90/albert464 8...
COOL AIN'T NEVER CHEAP OR EASY !
'Fixinto' is one word


 
63novatuckin20s 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Age: 73
Loc: Chapmansboro Tn.
Reg: 02-20-09
03-05-09 05:55 PM - Post#1644692    
    In response to 63novatuckin20s

I've got the CPP front end kit and sway bar on my 63 Nova and it is the best bang for the bucks when it comes to front ends.Ditch the stock front end as it will never stay aligned.

Link to my car pics. http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh90/albert464 8...
COOL AIN'T NEVER CHEAP OR EASY !
'Fixinto' is one word


 
jmdc 
Contributor
Posts: 213
jmdc
Loc: Tracy, CA
Reg: 10-11-07
03-07-09 07:59 PM - Post#1646189    
    In response to 63novatuckin20s

You also might want to look at at this site. This conversion helps with alignments. Chucks a real nice guy, give him a call or email him.

-Justin



2007 Impala
2001 Silverado
1981 C10 StepSide
1963 Nova Wagon


 
Cameo deuce 
Member
Posts: 111
Cameo deuce
Loc: ABQ---NM
Reg: 07-23-06
03-25-09 04:33 PM - Post#1660866    
    In response to jmdc

The CPP is 1/4 the cost you can see parts involved [image][/image]



 
raycow 
DECEASED
Posts: 27999
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-28-09 11:03 AM - Post#1663132    
    In response to Cameo deuce

That looks like a good one. Will it work on an otherwise stock car? If not, what else do you need to modify?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Cameo deuce 
Member
Posts: 111
Cameo deuce
Loc: ABQ---NM
Reg: 07-23-06
03-28-09 12:07 PM - Post#1663168    
    In response to raycow

Yes-My car is a numbers matching 283 AC PG car and i wanted a bolt on in case I wanted to go back to bone stock. Best money I spent and am yet to realign after several thousand miles. I used to be so leary about driving my car as it seemed every time I took it out I inevitably hit a pot hole and alignment was shot. I have since installed 2 other kits for fellow chevy 2s. This the complete mini kit all bolt on no other stuff needed. I did rebuild my idler arm with a new bushing but that was it. As i stated earlier the hardest part was blowing the rivits off that held the original parts in place!









 
jmdc 
Contributor
Posts: 213
jmdc
Loc: Tracy, CA
Reg: 10-11-07
04-06-09 12:09 PM - Post#1670127    
    In response to Cameo deuce

Here are some good installs you might want to read as well.

My Church Boys Conversion

CPP / Church Boys Install

Church Boys Arms:


Here is more info







2007 Impala
2001 Silverado
1981 C10 StepSide
1963 Nova Wagon


Edited by jmdc on 04-06-09 12:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
mr5by5 
Senior Member
Posts: 315
mr5by5
Loc: Hamlin, NY, USA
Reg: 11-21-02
05-21-09 11:03 AM - Post#1701992    
    In response to VintageCarryall

How about the Strut Rod Bushings at the front of subframe?
My front-end squeeks and squawks like crazy. I know I need new LCA bushings but can "tighten-up" the whole thing and stop the noise every time by tighening the nuts on the Strut Rods! I think the LCAs are moving-around on those bad bushings and shaking the Strut Rod nuts loose. It does seem the racket shows-up first when you go forward-to-reverse...


I am going to use the real poor-man's approach and replace the LCA Bushings, I can't afford that nice bolt-on replacement for original!

I have seen somewhere that you can "box" the LCAs by welding a plate on the bottom, seems like this would eliminate the need for the spacers shown in the Chevy manual for use in there when you press the bushings. Anybody got an opinion on that?



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
05-21-09 05:37 PM - Post#1702217    
    In response to mr5by5

Boxing will not cure that. I'm not real sure what good boxing does for anything.

The latest deal seems to be the CPP lower control arms. They do make a lot of sense.



 
mr5by5 
Senior Member
Posts: 315
mr5by5
Loc: Hamlin, NY, USA
Reg: 11-21-02
05-22-09 09:35 AM - Post#1702573    
    In response to Rick_L

Thanks for the response - I didn't think boxing the LCAs would help much with the alignment, just that my shop would not need to make-up spacers to shove-in to the LCA to prevent "crushing" them while pressing the bushings...

The CPP kit does make sense, I just have no "cents" to spend on it!



 
strummin67 
Member
Posts: 28

Reg: 10-12-06
06-25-09 08:20 AM - Post#1723069    
    In response to mr5by5

Pretty far from a "dead horse".

Hi guys.

For the past year I've been dealing with alignment issues on my '64 Chevy Nova wagon. I have 14 x 6 Chevy rallies on P205/70R14 tires. After Pep Boys and two frame shops couldn't get the rebuilt stock suspension to hold an alignment I went with the previously mentioned CPP "mini" subframe kit. The last frame shop installed it. By now I have sunk about $4k into the front end.

So after four months of trouble free driving I felt confident enough to replace the four completely bald tires.

Wheel Works had a buy three get the fourth tire free sale so I had them do the work. The tech doing the job said the car was a little out of alignment. He worked on it and said he got it aligned the best he could.

I drove it home and it felt a little out like it was "toe in".

Yesterday morning I took it to Martin's shop (same guy who put the CPP kit in) figuring he'd find the problem. He calls me up saying the lower ball joints are worn and allow a ton of play. Check it out:
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l...nt=PICT0981....
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l...nt=PICT0982....

New ball joints worn out in four short months. I called CPP and they said to take them off and ship them back and they'd send replacements. Martin felt that they were using cheap components and we'd be doing this again in a few months. He recommended I use his ball joints at a cost of $525 installed.

I'm unemployed and as I said before have a huge amount of money in just the front end alone. I called Wheel Works and spoke to the manager. He says ball joints don't cost that much and he could do the job for a lot less. I'm taking the car to him tomorrow.

Now have any of you purchased this same kit and had similar problems?

Strummin


Edited by strummin67 on 06-25-09 08:26 AM. Reason for edit: Clarity

 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
06-25-09 11:04 AM - Post#1723172    
    In response to strummin67

$525 for 2 ball joints installed and an alignment is pretty darn high.

I have no idea what OEM application the CPP ball joints are, or what it takes to install them. You might get better detailed infor at http://www.stevesnovasite.com A lot more traffic there than here.



 
strummin67 
Member
Posts: 28

Reg: 10-12-06
06-28-09 08:28 PM - Post#1725455    
    In response to Rick_L

Already posted there. Thanks.
I got Moog ball joints installed on Friday. Time will be the true test.

Strummin


 
Cameo deuce 
Member
Posts: 111
Cameo deuce
Loc: ABQ---NM
Reg: 07-23-06
06-30-09 11:32 AM - Post#1726509    
    In response to strummin67

I have about 3500 mile on my CPP kit, I guess I better check out the ball joints. I greased my parts upon assembly. Best approach is PM (Preventative Maintenance) Thanks for the heads up. Les



 
62chevy427 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2165
62chevy427
Loc: laurens sc
Reg: 04-13-06
09-15-09 08:46 PM - Post#1772731    
    In response to Cameo deuce

i just rebuild the front end on my 66 nova. new balljoints,control arm bushings,tie rod ends and bearing kit for the idler arm. it will not stay aligned. when it is driven the front wheels will toe in severely and the bottom of the wheels will be in. when the car is jacked up the suspension will unload and return to near normal. sometimes the alignment stays,somtimes it will move. the cams are not moving. it will also not self center after a turn. any suggestions? before the rebuild there were no problems with alignment. it held alignment for 40k miles. i really do not wnt to chnge to an aftermarket setup.

56 bel air ((since 2002)
62 impala ss (since 1965)
65 el camino (since 1969)
66 nova (since 1987)
67 malibu convertible (since 1981)
72 el camino ss454 (since 1985)
83 gmc 4wd (since 1991)
95 impala (new)
15 chevy equinox



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
09-16-09 08:32 AM - Post#1772929    
    In response to 62chevy427

Welcome to the site.

Look to see if the strut rods are the problem. Did you rebuild them too.

If you don't find an obvious problem, I'd suggest the lockout plates. That's what fixed everything for me.



 
62chevy427 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2165
62chevy427
Loc: laurens sc
Reg: 04-13-06
09-19-09 09:48 AM - Post#1774585    
    In response to Rick_L

thanks for the reply,rick.
i did not rebuild the strut rods. they did not have any play. as i said, it held the last alignment for 40 000 miles with no problem.we marked the lockout plates and nothing moved. i am currently disassembling the front end and looking for problems. for the last 5 tries at alignment,caster and camber stayed set fairly good (within the + and - spec) but toe in/out went from in spec to as much as a inch out. cannot find anything loose and everything is new.when toe is out that much,the wheels actually try to fold under. backing it up will restore most of it but toe setting will still be off.
if i cannot find anything wrong i am considering one of the cpp a arm kits mentioned in one of the other posts. classic industries has a 20% off right now which would save me $200.

56 bel air ((since 2002)
62 impala ss (since 1965)
65 el camino (since 1969)
66 nova (since 1987)
67 malibu convertible (since 1981)
72 el camino ss454 (since 1985)
83 gmc 4wd (since 1991)
95 impala (new)
15 chevy equinox



 
Tdalk 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 5

Reg: 10-06-15
10-16-15 01:42 PM - Post#2582940    
    In response to 62chevy427

I know this is an old post, but I am having this exact problem, backing up restores the lineup. Does anybody know if the problem described in this post was ever resolved and if so how? All bushings ball joints ect are new.



 
wijnaldumwilliam 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 03-02-16
03-02-16 03:34 AM - Post#2612560    
    In response to Tdalk

creators of the Chevy II used Falcon as a benchmark. The 1962 model range included sedans and wagons, as well as a two-door hardtop and a convertible, just like Falcon.When you replaced the lower a-arm bushings did all the washers or spacers get put back in place? If something is missing it doesn't matter how tight the bolt and nut are the alignment will not hold. The CPP arms will eliminate the problem however they still use the same style of eccentrics to align the car. The difference is that they use a bushing that is the correct size for the pocket so that there are no parts to be left out when re-installing them. I would check to make sure that the entire bushing set up is in place. Of course this is just my 2 pennies:-)


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raycow 
DECEASED
Posts: 27999
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-02-16 01:40 PM - Post#2612651    
    In response to wijnaldumwilliam

  • wijnaldumwilliam Said:
creators of the Chevy II used Falcon as a benchmark....


If I had to choose between the two (suspensions, not complete cars), I would pick the Falcon over the Chevy II every time. This is based on my experience with early Mustangs, which I believe used the same front end as Falcons.

Personally, I wish GM would have built a closer copy of the Falcon suspension. As designed, the Chevy II has a lot more problems than the Ford version. Just look at how many aftermarket suspensions are offered for the 1st gen Chevy II.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27651
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
03-02-16 06:21 PM - Post#2612709    
    In response to raycow

Please explain what's different except for who made the parts.

Fact is, there's no difference, except for possibly the screwed up Chevy II steering linkage which causes excessive bump steer. The Falcon and Mustang may not have had that. Or is that what you describe?



 
gopi 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 11-03-16
11-03-16 01:26 AM - Post#2659713    
    In response to wijnaldumwilliam

If I had to choose between the two (suspensions, not complete cars), I Link pick the Falcon over the Chevy II every time. This is based on my experience with early Mustangs, which I believe used the same front Link as Falcons.

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