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Username Post: 1965 rear-end removal/installation        (Topic#190588)
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
05-27-08 05:55 PM - Post#1442519    

Finally looks like I'm getting around to putting this 12 bolt thing in place of my busted 10 bolt thing. I know all about just about everything on the car but I have never removed/installed a rear-end with coil springs. Can anyone give me a quick rundown of procedure or point me somewhere that can? Do you just jack up the pumpkin when you take out the control arm bolts and then let everything fly? It looks as if the springs have some sort of washer bolting them to the control arms but its mighty dirty and dusty down there. Is this right? Can I expect a bunch of wrangling with this thing and will an impact help?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.



 
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427SS65 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 14564
427SS65
Age: 72
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
05-27-08 07:23 PM - Post#1442575    
    In response to docpete

docpete, here are the steps I have used to remove and reinstall a 65 rear end. Look at the pictures on my Flickr site below to get an idea of what is going on.

Removal:

1. Spray all bolts and nuts with PB Blaster penetrant. Let sit for a while.
2. Remove the driveshaft, emergency brake cables, panhard bar and the rear brake hydraulic lines.
3. Remove all nuts from trailing arm bolts, but do not remove the bolts. Make note of how the bolts and trailing arms are facing so when you put it back together, it'll be correct.
4. Make a cradle to lower the rear end. I used Unistrut mounted to a floor transmission jack. If you are going to do this on the floor, you will have to hoist the car up enough to get the rear end suspension down far enough to get the springs out. You will have to use a couple of scissor jacks to lower the rear end assembly down and leave the car up in the air.
5. Remove the upper control arms, rebuild with new bushings and repaint.
6. Slowly drop the rearend down, leaving the lower control arms connected (with nuts loose on the bolts).
7. When you get the rear end down as far as it will go, you can probably pry the rear springs out of the pocket, since there is not much tension on them. Make note of how the spring sits in the pocket. There is an indentation and a hole where the end of the coil will sit.
8. Carefully unbolt the rear end from the lower control arms. It's heavy and unruly at this point - use caution. Have a strong friend or two around - no beer until job is finished.
9. Remove springs from lower control arms. Clean, paint OR replace the springs if the car ride height was not correct.
10. If you already haven't done it yet, get the new 12 bolt rear end ready. Check for pinion play, bad seals, bad axle bearings, leaky axle seals, etc. Redo the rear brakes if needed. Install Posi if required. Remove cover and check for gear wear and refill with new fluids.

Reinstall:

11. Put new or refurbished springs on lower control arms using new hardware.
12. Loosely bolt the lower arms to the car. See if you can get the springs back into the pockets at this time. Before tightening the spring attachment bolt, make sure the spring is sitting in the perch properly. Then tighten bolt to torque specs in the assembly manual.
13. Lift the axle assembly up to both lower arms and slide new Grade 8 bolts through the bushings.
14. Continue to lift the axle up while watching the upper part of the spring in the perch to make sure it hasn't moved.
15. When you can bolt the upper control arm to the axle, do so. You will need one extra control arm and frame bracket when converting from a 10 bolt to a 12 bolt.
16. Once all the bolts are in, and the nuts are on, but still loose, lower the car onto the wheels and have your friends bounce the car up and down to make sure everything is seated properly. Then jack up the car, and tighten all bolts according to GM specs. Use a torque wrench and use new hardware throughout.
17. Reinstall the panhard bar with new hardware and bushings. Sometimes easier to use a come-a-long and pull the axle to one side or another to get it on. Not an easy task!
18. Reinstall new or repainted shocks with new hardware.
19. Reinstall the rear hydraulic brake lines and bleed the braking system. Don't forget to replace the rubber crossover hose. It's probably rotten, or will break first time you drive the car.
20. Connect the emergency brake cables and tension accordingly.
21. Make sure to check the pinion angle after you are through with the job. It is usually 1.5 to 3 degrees up (since the downward angle of the transmission is that). Make it equal, but opposite of the tranny angle with shims on the upper control arm brackets.

Now, wasn't that easy? If I forgot anything, I'll re-edit this communication.

By the way, it's a lot easier if the car is up on a lift like I have. You can strap the car to the lift to keep it from raising up.

Don't forget to look at my pictures below!

Look in Current 65 Impala SS Undergoes a Restoration. . . .


Tom 65-70 Full Size Team Moderator

View My Photos Here

65 Impala SS Tahitian Turquoise


 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
05-27-08 08:37 PM - Post#1442630    
    In response to 427SS65

Nice Tom! That's exactly what I was looking for - somewhere to point at when it goes awry. No seriously though I'll knock it out tomorrow and send some pics from the track!

I'm in need of rear springs - I gather from the posts I've read that I need to get plain passenger variable rate springs and to shy away from the so-called heavy duty types as they tend to rub on the frame. I guess a few polygraphite bushings would be a nice gesture or would good ole poly bushings be better? Your sweet red ones look awful nice...

As far as the rear goes its going in as is and we'll see if the seller was honest about being ok. No money right now for fancy stuff just need to get the car motating. Hopefully my new brake periphernalia from the 10 bolt will fit on the 12 bolt...

Oh and the driveshaft already removed itself for me, that was nice...





 
427SS65 
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 14564
427SS65
Age: 72
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
05-27-08 08:42 PM - Post#1442631    
    In response to docpete

I used Energy Suspension units. Their black ones are polygraphite, but still, don't forget to use their grease when reassembling.

Tom 65-70 Full Size Team Moderator

View My Photos Here

65 Impala SS Tahitian Turquoise


 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 499

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
05-27-08 11:09 PM - Post#1442695    
    In response to 427SS65

Great post, Tom. Thanks! Many of us can benefit from this.

I've already got a 12 bolt but I need to R&R my rear end to have a posi installed, plus I want to paint it and make it look pretty while I'm at it.

What's the best way to get off the thick old undercoating? Sand blast? Media blast? Have it dipped?

I'm not particularly looking forward to this job.

1965 Impala SS 327 (Crocus Yellow)


 
leon phelps 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4143
leon phelps
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
05-28-08 01:00 PM - Post#1443112    
    In response to AmericanPie

sand blast is quick and easy. send it out for $50 and be done.

let me know if you want the dvd for how to rebuild.



 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-10-08 06:29 PM - Post#1496493    
    In response to leon phelps

Well 10 bolt is out. Used nearly a whole can of PB blaster. Also used several large hammers and pry bars, as well as 3 floor jacks, 4 jack stands, numerous wrenches, breaker bars, cheater pipes etc. Now its time to work on the bushing replacement etc...

A cool trick I learned (the hard way) is that if you remove the wheel cylinders, and unbolt the brake backing plates from the housing you can spin them 180 degrees which lets you get at the lower control arm bushing bolts with a hammer and drift (through the hole where the wheel cylinder was)to punch them out after removing the nuts. After 43 years they needed a bit of persuasion to come out.



 
MI2600 
Senior Member
Posts: 760

Loc: N. Muskegon, MI
Reg: 05-30-03
08-10-08 07:39 PM - Post#1496544    
    In response to docpete

When reassembling, I would coat the bolts with some grease. The bolts have a tendency to rust to the inner steel sleeves of the bushings. If you've ever had to beat, heat, or cut them out, you'll understand why.

'67 Biscayne
'72 El Camino
'86 El Camino


Edited by MI2600 on 08-10-08 07:39 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
leon phelps 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4143
leon phelps
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
08-10-08 08:22 PM - Post#1496581    
    In response to MI2600

Great suggestion, but in reality these cars will never be the every day drivers of be left outside for years at a time.

I catch myself over doing it and need to step back and think that my car will be garage kept for the rest of its existence.



 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-11-08 04:37 PM - Post#1497154    
    In response to leon phelps

Right on target there MI2600. First off, everyone should be greasing their bolts so that they slide freely within the bushing sleeves and do not squeek. Secondly, speaking for myself only, I do not have the luxury of storing my car indoors, and I have done plenty of driving it in all manner of weather, so I plan to liberally coat the threads of the new bolts I install with a healthy coat of grease. Unless you will never drive in any kind of rain and of course never wash your car, moisture has a funny way of getting where you least want it, and for myself, the thought of nicely greased suspension bolts and bushings warms my heart a lot more than a shiny paintjob or fuzzy dice.



 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-12-08 07:47 AM - Post#1497606    
    In response to docpete

On sort of the same topic, I was able to salvage the pan hard bar mounting stud but was not able to save the two rear lower shock mounting studs. They both twisted right off (arm power only.) Any ideas of a supplier for these? Or am I looking at scrounging up some off of eBay or the boneyard?



 
Midnight Rider 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 641
Midnight Rider
Age: 59
Loc: Brooklyn Ctr, Minnesota
Reg: 01-19-05
08-12-08 07:57 AM - Post#1497623    
    In response to docpete

Performance Online has them available.
Bill


Midnight Rider

1966 Bel Air 2-door sedan
2007 K-2500


 
Jim.Biron 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2960
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
08-12-08 08:44 AM - Post#1497658    
    In response to Midnight Rider

  • Midnight Rider Said:
Performance Online has them available.
Bill




I never really looked at it before the picure above, but is there any chance that the shock mount and panhard bar stud are interchangeable? They look very close.


Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-12-08 12:22 PM - Post#1497819    
    In response to Jim.Biron

Nice one Midnight Rider! Of all of the places I looked (HH classics, Hubbard's, Sinclair's, Year One, Classic Muscle, Car Shop, Impala Bob's, etc.) nobody had them! And Jim.Biron the panhard stud is quite a bit larger than the shock studs. Not saying you couldn't get it to work but you might have to use tractor shock absorbers to get them to fit

On that note - any ideas anyone on where to get new panhard rod studs?



Edited by docpete on 08-12-08 12:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Jim.Biron 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2960
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
08-12-08 01:11 PM - Post#1497843    
    In response to docpete

  • docpete Said:
Nice one Midnight Rider! Of all of the places I looked (HH classics, Hubbard's, Sinclair's, Year One, Classic Muscle, Car Shop, Impala Bob's, etc.) nobody had them! And Jim.Biron the panhard stud is quite a bit larger than the shock studs. Not saying you couldn't get it to work but you might have to use tractor shock absorbers to get them to fit

On that note - any ideas anyone on where to get new panhard rod studs?



I thought that I saw on 'Muscle Car' this weekend (a TV Show) that a stud was provided when you bought an Air Ride kit. I did some checking but haven't seen any yet. I'm surprised we can't find any. We might start checking there.

OK now we've got two parts that need to be manufactured.
1) 65-70 Clutch fork
2) panhard bar stud.



Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-12-08 04:29 PM - Post#1497973    
    In response to Jim.Biron

Jim I followed up your lead with Air Ride Technologies and after looking around a bit I found this on a dusty shelf somewhere. It's an ART parts and installation file for a 65-66 impala rear cool ride setup. It lists the panhard bar stud as part # A542. I'll try to follow up with ART and see if they can hook me up with one.




Air Ride Technologies 65-66 PDF



 
Jim.Biron 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2960
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
08-13-08 04:40 AM - Post#1498281    
    In response to docpete

  • docpete Said:
Jim I followed up your lead with Air Ride Technologies and after looking around a bit I found this on a dusty shelf somewhere. It's an ART parts and installation file for a 65-66 impala rear cool ride setup. It lists the panhard bar stud as part # A542. I'll try to follow up with ART and see if they can hook me up with one.




Air Ride Technologies 65-66 PDF



Fingers crossed.

Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-13-08 08:14 AM - Post#1498390    
    In response to Jim.Biron

I called 'em up at Air Ride (www.ridetech.com) and they said no problem I can have one for $30.45. Part # A542. I didn't order one yet, will do that after I get some other stuff I need first.





 
Jim.Biron 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2960
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
08-13-08 08:19 AM - Post#1498392    
    In response to docpete

  • docpete Said:
I called 'em up at Air Ride (www.ridetech.com) and they said no problem I can have one for $30.45. Part # A542. I didn't order one yet, will do that after I get some other stuff I need first.





Very Cool!!!!! Nice job!!!

Now if we can only find a maker of the dreaded straight clutch fork.

Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
docpete 
Senior Member
Posts: 425
docpete
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 12-20-04
08-13-08 08:36 AM - Post#1498403    
    In response to Jim.Biron

any idea on a part number for the dreaded clutch fork? I have one rolling around somewhere that came thrown in with my car...



 
Jim.Biron 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2960
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
08-13-08 09:54 AM - Post#1498474    
    In response to docpete

  • docpete Said:
any idea on a part number for the dreaded clutch fork? I have one rolling around somewhere that came thrown in with my car...


Apparently there were two...
2 GM part numbers: #340278 & #14066235
Those are no longer available.

Take a read of the 'Clutch Linkage' thread in this forum. We have a lot of discussion there.

Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
Finfan 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 38
Finfan
Loc: Santa Clara
Reg: 09-19-15
07-07-18 10:36 AM - Post#2739275    
    In response to Jim.Biron

Continuing the 427 swap with motor and trans in and upon reading this great post I discovered my 6 cylinder based girl has only one upper control arm.
Tired of surprises! Now I am searching for a drivers side upper control are bracket.
Guess I'm not taking her to church tomorrow..........



 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 83
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-10-18 07:30 AM - Post#2739546    
    In response to Finfan

  • Finfan Said:
Continuing the 427 swap with motor and trans in and upon reading this great post I discovered my 6 cylinder based girl has only one upper control arm.
Tired of surprises! Now I am searching for a drivers side upper control are bracket.
Guess I'm not taking her to church tomorrow..........



Look at my build thread where I also added the left side upper control arm to my diff... here's the link: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...
I bought the bracket from Summit racing.

Good luck, Mark


Attachment: IMG_5346.JPG (3.21 MB) 3 View(s)


pic of the bracket I bought from SummitRacing.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...


 
Finfan 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 38
Finfan
Loc: Santa Clara
Reg: 09-19-15
07-10-18 05:01 PM - Post#2739608    
    In response to MarkISS

Hello Mark and thank you.

I guess I wasn't clear. My 12 bolt is fine it was the frame side bracket I needed which I did find in the classifieds here.

Thanks again!




 
toro455 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 471
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
07-11-18 01:33 PM - Post#2739707    
    In response to Finfan

Global West has frame side brackets.They should be their PN VTC-50.



 
Justin Sane 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11

Reg: 09-20-16
08-10-18 07:30 PM - Post#2742663    
    In response to docpete

  • docpete Said:
I called 'em up at Air Ride (www.ridetech.com) and they said no problem I can have one for $30.45. Part # A542. I didn't order one yet, will do that after I get some other stuff I need first.





Just an FYI, I recently did a 12 bolt conversion on my 66, I ordered Monroe 5820 rear shocks and they came with new lower shock mounts and were about $36.00 for 2 shocks and mounts.

They do look different than the original stud mounts, but function the same and I think that they have a cleaner look to them.

http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/5820/




 
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