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Username Post: 1938 tie rod removal        (Topic#188675)
navyson 
Member
Posts: 154
navyson
Loc: California,USA
Reg: 01-12-06
05-02-08 11:43 AM - Post#1424941    

OK, more on the saga of my 1938 Chevy restoration! Tie rod ends: I unscrewed and removed the round threaded cap and rounded cap that butts up against the ball. The tie rod will not come off the ball! I have tried a rubber mallet, WD 40, and pushing the rear rounded cap and spring back into the tie rod end, no luck. What's the magic trick?

1938 Master Deluxe 4 door Chevrolet; 1964 Corvette, Sport Coupe


 




2blu52 
Deceased Member RIP
Posts: 19549
2blu52
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
05-02-08 11:47 AM - Post#1424943    
    In response to navyson

You need a tie rod end fork. Purchase one from any parts house. The fork drives in between the tie rod and the ball on the tie rod end and forces it down. You will need a relatively heavy hammer as well. When reconnecting the tie rod end to the tie rod put a jack under the tie rod end and apply some upward pressure, this will keep the bolt from turning while you tighten it to specs.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
navyson 
Member
Posts: 154
navyson
Loc: California,USA
Reg: 01-12-06
05-02-08 11:59 AM - Post#1424947    
    In response to 2blu52

Thanks! I'll do that!

1938 Master Deluxe 4 door Chevrolet; 1964 Corvette, Sport Coupe


 
Royer 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 11411
Royer
Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michiga...
Reg: 09-25-01
05-02-08 01:24 PM - Post#1424974    
    In response to navyson

One additional thing: the tool you want is also commonly called a "pickel fork". There are many places that you can rent or borrow one if you don't expect to be using it often.

Royer



 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12330

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
05-02-08 03:05 PM - Post#1425017    
    In response to Royer

Don't use a tie rod fork on the style of tie rod end. Pound (not too har) on the opposite end of the tie rod so as to drive the "internal parts" deeper into the opening so it will slip off the ball. Also you can pound on the stuck end to force it off the ball. Pound up but to the inside of the ball so you don't damage the threads for the end plug. The body of the tie rod may be damaged if the modenr tie rod end fork is used.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
navyson 
Member
Posts: 154
navyson
Loc: California,USA
Reg: 01-12-06
05-02-08 06:16 PM - Post#1425123    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

That's what I thought too. This is a replacement front end. My old front end tie rod never had this problem, the tie rod ends just popped off. Back to the soft end hammer and some beating!
Thank you to everyone for the help.

1938 Master Deluxe 4 door Chevrolet; 1964 Corvette, Sport Coupe


 
David Hayward 
Deceased RIP David
Posts: 7051
David Hayward
Age: 67
Loc: New Forest, UK
Reg: 04-10-99
05-03-08 01:24 AM - Post#1425308    
    In response to navyson

Made sticky for a time as this is useful info!

Automotive Historian, Writer & Author

Avatar: sole surviving 1939 Chevrolet truck assembled in Southampton, England


 
2blu52 
Deceased Member RIP
Posts: 19549
2blu52
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
05-03-08 02:00 PM - Post#1425538    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

  • Gene_Schneider Said:
Don't use a tie rod fork on the style of tie rod end. Pound (not too har) on the opposite end of the tie rod so as to drive the "internal parts" deeper into the opening so it will slip off the ball. Also you can pound on the stuck end to force it off the ball. Pound up but to the inside of the ball so you don't damage the threads for the end plug. The body of the tie rod may be damaged if the modenr tie rod end fork is used.


If I gave bad information on this my apologies. Will take a trip to the parts book and see what this tie rod and tie rod end look like.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12330

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
05-03-08 04:40 PM - Post#1425617    
    In response to 2blu52

The "body" of the tie rod end is very thin at this point and the tie rod wedge may put too much pressure on it and distort it. The actual stud is on the steering arm and the end is "empty" with spacers, springs, etc. holding it to the ball.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
Bill Masters 
Member
Posts: 35
Bill Masters
Loc: Simpsonville, S.C.
Reg: 12-17-06
05-04-08 07:22 PM - Post#1426325    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

To remove the tie rod, remove the cotter pin, end plug and ball seat. Screw the end plug back onto the end of the tie rod and continue until the ball is in the center of the opening. A light tap with a hammer will remove the tie rod from the ball.



 
navyson 
Member
Posts: 154
navyson
Loc: California,USA
Reg: 01-12-06
05-09-08 05:53 PM - Post#1429819    
    In response to Bill Masters

I finally got them off. These are the directions that are in the 1938 manual. Thank you!

1938 Master Deluxe 4 door Chevrolet; 1964 Corvette, Sport Coupe


 




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