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Username Post: '60-'66 Disc Brake Conversions        (Topic#187532)
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
05-24-10 05:08 AM - Post#1919664    
    In response to raycow

Hi guys, new to the site and 60's chevy's. I know this is an old post, but i'm trying to do a conversion on my 66 c20 and I am confused from reading this thread.

If I understand correctly, 73-87 front spindles will fit my truck providing I get the ball joints for the same as the year I acquire the spindles from?

Could I also get them from a 6 bolt truck and bolt them in?

I have power brakes now, so can I use the master cylinder and proportioning valve from the 73 - 87 truck as well?

I think changing a whole crossmember is a bit out of my ability, so I'm trying to work within my means.

Thanks for any advice you can give me.



 
Ecklers AutoMotive
Chevy_Stepside 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5984
Chevy_Stepside
Age: 56
Loc: San Francisco, Ca, USA
Reg: 07-08-02
05-24-10 02:26 PM - Post#1919943    
    In response to yalpngulp

check out this thread and I would say it is probably the easiest and you will get a nice ride out of your truck. https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...

"A man and his truck, It's a beautiful thing"
The tour is on again. May 1st 2011. $5 I ride 100 miles. http://main.diabetes.org/site/TR?pg=personal&a mp;f...


 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
05-24-10 05:41 PM - Post#1920065    
    In response to Chevy_Stepside

i dont have the skill to pull that off. i need a do-it-yourself type project that doesn't involve that much modification



 
pctahlequah 
Contributor
Posts: 556
pctahlequah
Loc: Tahlequah, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-03-08
05-24-10 06:38 PM - Post#1920107    
    In response to yalpngulp

Welcome to the site, brother. Hey, I did the crossmember swap on my 66 C20 and made it a C10, 5 lug, power brakes and steering.
Swapping out the crossmember is the quickest, easiest way to go. I did it by myself over a weekend with a engine hoist to move the crossmembers around.
I think once you get started on it you'll see how simple it is.

Good luck with your truck....

************* Preston

'66 Chevy pick-up:Small back glass, A/C cab, LWB 454/TH400/3.08 rear
'68 Impala: SS Fastback 454/700R4/3.08 rear
'07 Suzuki Boulevard C50 805cc




 
Vaughn 
"15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 18770
Vaughn
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-25-10 07:47 AM - Post#1920316    
    In response to pctahlequah

Jim Carter has a disk brake swap kit for c20s - if you want to keep the 8 lug wheels in front.

http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/55_66/full.asp?page=...

At the bottom of the page, it has your kit without the booster, to save you a little money.

You either have to choose the expensive option of buying a complete kit (much easier), or the cheaper option of piecing together a disk brake swap (much more labor/time intensive). There is no middle of the road option, where you get it cheap and it is easy to install.

Yes, the prices are steep for complete kits, but they are steep for a reason. Don't try to cheap out, you will just end up spending more money in the long run trying to fix your "kit".



 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
05-25-10 04:41 PM - Post#1920555    
    In response to Vaughn

from what i understood from reading this thread was that i could get a 73-87 chev and swap just the spindles and brakes over. is that not correct?



 
Vaughn 
"15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 18770
Vaughn
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-26-10 02:52 PM - Post#1921056    
    In response to yalpngulp

You can, but there are several things to watch for - which should have been talked about in great detail. Can you piece together a system this way? Yes, but you have to know what you are doing. If you don't have a fairly extensive knowledge about what to do, you are far safer with a kit.



 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
05-26-10 07:52 PM - Post#1921211    
    In response to Vaughn

if i get a crossmember from a 68 c10, with 6 bolt, would this be an easy swap?



 
1965C-10 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 7266
1965C-10
Age: 41
Loc: San Tan Valley AZ "Phoeni...
Reg: 11-18-01
05-26-10 08:47 PM - Post#1921233    
    In response to yalpngulp

1968 is still drum brakes, you need a 1971 or newer.



 
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
07-22-10 12:04 PM - Post#1949340    
    In response to hilandr451

Is there specific years or models that will work on the disc brake conversion



 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
07-25-10 08:18 PM - Post#1950721    
    In response to ted1962

Ok, so my decision is to change my 66 c20 over to 5 bolt, lowered with disc brakes. I've acquired a 71 c10 parts truck. I went to a reputable shop that only deals with older chevys and bought drop spindles to fit the 71's lower control arms and a steering linkage off a 66 c10. I was told by the shop to use the 71 arms.

I have run into some snags:

1) the bolt holes on the idler arm from the 66 do not line up and it doesn't seem to fit very well, but the 71 linkage fits closer to my original other that the bolt hole problem still. If I take the drag link from my original and mount it to the 71 linkage, it would work i think, or not?

2) the lower control arm mounts differently, on the 71, it has u-bolts holding it on with the round tube (don't know what it's called) where as the 66 control arms have a thick flat piece that the bolts go right through, just a nut & bolt setup instead of ubolts, the holes fdo not match up for the ubolts.

As far as i can see, the only difference between the 71 and 66 lower control arms are the hole size difference for the balljoint. Could i just ream out the spindle to fit the 66 c20 lower ball joint?

I am at my ends with this truck, just 1 problem after another trying to get it on the road. I'm gonna light a match to it soon, can anyone help me?



 
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
07-30-10 06:48 PM - Post#1953211    
    In response to kevindtimm

would like to seee your steps for your conversion, ted



 
HURSTSSAMX69 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 66
HURSTSSAMX69
Age: 38
Loc: Madison, WI
Reg: 01-23-10
08-06-10 05:31 PM - Post#1956832    
    In response to ted1962

How dose one do a Drum to disc conversion on a DRW'd truck ?

Mike

1953 Studebaker M275.
1962 GMC 4500.
1969 AMC AMX.
1976 Arctic Cat Jag2000.
1977 Ford F-350.
1988 AMC/Jeep MJ.
1992 GTA Trans AM.
1995 GMC K2500.
2007 Honda Rubicon TRX500.
Looking for M52A1 Mack 5T 6x6/M123A1C 10T Mack 6x6.


 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
08-20-10 08:23 PM - Post#1964244    
    In response to HURSTSSAMX69

OK, I've done some research and learned that the control arms on my truck are 60-62, i don't know why, but obviously they have changed the cross member to that style as well. but i do have coil springs, not torsion.

can i transfer the cross shafts from the 60-62 style c20 lower control arms into the 71 c10 lower control arms?

i tried to get my spindles reamed to accept the c20 ball joints but the shop said it was way too much size difference.

i tried to find ball joint sleeves to use the c10 ball joint in the c20 arms, but i couldn't get the right size.

can anyone suggest something to help me? thanks in advance



 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
08-22-10 07:15 PM - Post#1965256    
    In response to yalpngulp

ok, well it would appear nobody has the solution issue, but for the sake of helping some other struggling person out there with the same problem, i created the solution, the easiest way is to change the flat shafts onto the 71-87 control arms, by undoing the big nuts on both ends with a 1 5/8 wrench, slide the shaft out and bolt it onto the newer control arms with the nuts from the newer ones, make sure to put them on the same direction as the originals. bolt them on, change your upper ball joint to a 71-87 1/2 ton ball joint. use the bearings from the 71-87 on the spindles. for the steering linkage, just replace outer tie rod ends with 71-87 outers, the rest stays the same. then, bolt the rest of the 1/2 ton brake components, and your conversion is done, for the front end anyway.

I really hope i have helped someone with this tutorial, and saved them the aggravation i suffered.



Edited by yalpngulp on 08-22-10 07:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3845
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
08-23-10 08:30 AM - Post#1965505    
    In response to yalpngulp

OK so let me get this strait. You have a 1966 C20 (3/4ton 8 lug) truck and you wanted to go to a 5 lug pattern so you could put the cool wheels on it.

In lieu of swapping the cross member you opted for the less invasive strategy of swapping the just the spindles.

So after much trial & tribulation you concluded that all one needs to do to accomplish this is to swap the control arms, spindles and tie-rod ends with the same equipment from a 71-87 right?

But in order to get the 1/2 ton gear to bolt up to the 3/4 ton cross member, you need to put the 3/4ton control arm shafts into the 1/2 ton control arms you're installing.

Is this all bolted in and operational?
Have you had the truck aligned yet?
Would you care to share any pictures of the transition or finished job?

I don’t believe I have ever seen anybody do a ¾ ton to ½ ton conversion without swapping the whole cross member. Thanks for posting this!


-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
08-28-10 09:32 AM - Post#1967940    
    In response to hilandr451

Hilander, your total swap is a great idea, but in looking around I think we could use up to a 1991 suburban for the swap. It is the same as the 1988. I bought one for 500.00 running, and am going to use the whole front end, power steering, disc brakes, engine and transmission.

Am I correct or did I miss something?? Kieth



 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3845
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
08-28-10 01:26 PM - Post#1968060    
    In response to kieth

I don't know the cut-off year, all I know is that at least up to 1989 will work. (only because I happened to get a good deal on an '89 to do the swap with) If the 1991 model year is the same, than I would guess that it should work. Let us know if that is in fact the cut off year for compatible front crossmembers and I'll post that on the main instructions.

-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 28999
someotherguy
Age: 49
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-28-10 05:01 PM - Post#1968142    
    In response to hilandr451

Yep, '91 Suburban is same chassis/body as the previous years. Last year for it. In '92 they switched to the body style that began in the trucks in '88, and the crossmember doesn't bolt in - it's part of the frame.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3845
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
08-31-10 08:53 AM - Post#1969380    
    In response to someotherguy

So 1991 would be the official cut-off year for compatible crossmembers. Richard, do you know if that is also for 3/4 and 1 ton models as well?

-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 28999
someotherguy
Age: 49
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-31-10 09:06 AM - Post#1969386    
    In response to hilandr451

I don't know enough about squarebody trucks (the 73-87 era) to say definitively. Beginning with that era, there always seemed to be "carryover" models that are the exceptions to the rule. 3/4 and 1 tons lag behind the redesign a few years.

The similar thing happened with the 88-98 GMT400 trucks as you could still get a 99 GMT400 instead of the new GMT800, they just called it a "Silverado Classic", and the Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon stayed the old body, as well as 1 tons, etc.

The easier way to look at it would be, as long as it's still a squarebody era truck, the crossmember is likely one that will work for you. Now if it's a 3/4 or 1 ton I really don't know; I suspect there may be frame and running gear differences compared to a 1/2 ton but just am not educated enough on squarebody to say so for sure.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
HDWRENCH 
Member
Posts: 84
HDWRENCH
Loc: prescott az
Reg: 08-01-06
08-31-10 06:05 PM - Post#1969596    
    In response to 1965C-10

For the guys that are going the pick a part there is a site that has some great info as well a guy there is making some very cool laser caut brackets for a great price. If a mod will let me know if I can post the link I will. I do not want to step on any toes.

I pulled all my rotors and ps box linkage and hydo booster, master, lines, ps pump, brackets , upper and lower a-arms ( update to stuff that is easier to get and stronger) from a pick a part total cost to get all the parts I needed is just under 300 dollars. I had another 100 in new bushings the 3 trucks I pulled from had very new parts on them. Great deal if you know what to look for.

62 chevy
383 stroker
rhs aluminum heads ( heavily re ported)
race demon 750
msd billet dist, 6AL , blaster coil and msd wires
custom flat tappet cam
roller rockers. the normal goodies in a 7200 rpm small block
TKO 600 5 speed trans


Edited by HDWRENCH on 08-31-10 06:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
09-01-10 07:46 AM - Post#1969830    
    In response to someotherguy

I will let you know about the 3/4 ton crossmember , I bought a 88 3/4 suburb for $650.00 with a 95 350 in it for cheap and am going to try and use the HD components and brakes. I bought a 91 1/2 ton cheap that has a 600r4 in it so Iam going to mix and match engine, powersteering, rear ends and suspension as needed to put my gmc into the 21st century. Will advise Kieth


  • someotherguy Said:
I don't know enough about squarebody trucks (the 73-87 era) to say definitively. Beginning with that era, there always seemed to be "carryover" models that are the exceptions to the rule. 3/4 and 1 tons lag behind the redesign a few years.

The similar thing happened with the 88-98 GMT400 trucks as you could still get a 99 GMT400 instead of the new GMT800, they just called it a "Silverado Classic", and the Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon stayed the old body, as well as 1 tons, etc.

The easier way to look at it would be, as long as it's still a squarebody era truck, the crossmember is likely one that will work for you. Now if it's a 3/4 or 1 ton I really don't know; I suspect there may be frame and running gear differences compared to a 1/2 ton but just am not educated enough on squarebody to say so for sure.

Richard






 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3845
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
09-02-10 09:04 AM - Post#1970447    
    In response to kieth

Thanks for that Kieth! Good luck with that ambitious project! That's the way I am, I like to do it all myself, doesn't matter how big the project is - I just roll up my sleeves and "Git-R-DONE"!!

Plus it helps having a bunch of internet buddies to call on - and of course a good local friend who's not afraid to get dirty is a priceless asset! (thanks a million Johnny)

-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
mean60impalagene 
Contributor
Posts: 134

Loc: STOCKTON CA.
Reg: 01-31-13
02-17-13 07:38 AM - Post#2317697    
    In response to oldskol

I (we)60-62 1/2 ton truck guys need help on the front disk brakes.when you mention 63-66 it makes it hard for me(us)So if there is a forum for us let me(us)know please



Edited by mean60impalagene on 02-17-13 07:41 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3845
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
02-17-13 10:40 AM - Post#2317770    
    In response to mean60impalagene

There is not a ChevyTalk forum specifically for the '60-'62 guys. We just lump all of it here with the same basic body style. There are quite a few '60-'62 guys here on this forum that have made the conversion. What we need is to hear from them on this. I know it can be done because I've seen it.

-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
66_C10_TPI 
Member
Posts: 28
66_C10_TPI
Loc: Georgetown, IL usa
Reg: 06-05-01
02-18-13 08:35 PM - Post#2318365    
    In response to hilandr451

Does anyone know when doing this conversion does it effect the track width?



 
yalpngulp 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 05-24-10
02-18-13 08:54 PM - Post#2318375    
    In response to hilandr451

all one needs to do to accomplish this is to swap the control arms, spindles and tie-rod ends with the same equipment from a 71-87 right?

yes

Is this all bolted in and operational?

yes

Have you had the truck aligned yet?
yes

Would you care to share any pictures of the transition or finished job?

no, lol. I didn't take pics of the conversion as I did it. but I assure you it worked. i have a couple finished pics, but i can't figure out how to upload them here







 
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