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Username Post: Common Mistakes and tips        (Topic#177647)
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17544
grumpyvette
Age: 72
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
11-29-12 02:38 PM - Post#2293450    
    In response to Todd W. White

after the first 300 miles I generally run just a good quality standard petroleum base or synthetic premium oil and a quart of marvel mystery oil which is just a high detergent oil itself that Ive found works well, added to the other oil, theres a great deal of info on the oil quality in the links, a good quality oil already has all the additives needed if its changed frequently, but adding the ZDDPlus probably won,t hurt anything but your wallet.

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 


Todd W. White 
Contributor
Posts: 288
Todd W. White
Loc: Sapulpa, Oklahoma
Reg: 02-08-08
11-30-12 12:11 PM - Post#2293749    
    In response to grumpyvette

Thanks again GV.

Our local speed shop, which has been around for 50 years, sells "Brad Penn" break-in oil for about $6 a quart. After looking at their website (link below), I see that theirs has ZDDP in it - should I add some to the break-in oil in addition to what's already in it?

Link:

http://www.penngrade1.com/products/High-Perform anc...



 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17544
grumpyvette
Age: 72
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
11-30-12 02:52 PM - Post#2293810    
    In response to Todd W. White

that oil is fine as is

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 02-29-16 06:40 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Todd W. White 
Contributor
Posts: 288
Todd W. White
Loc: Sapulpa, Oklahoma
Reg: 02-08-08
12-01-12 12:25 PM - Post#2294075    
    In response to grumpyvette

THANKS!



 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10073
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
01-18-16 07:28 AM - Post#2602943    
    In response to PhatOne

With the recent (OK, 10-15 years) popularity of GM Vortec heads, I want to add this:

The GM Vortec heads (casting number 062) I bought new in 2015 have the exhaust ports raised approx .100"-.120" on the head relative to the manifold/header bolt holes. That means on most all cast iron manifolds (and on some headers) the gasket and/or sealing surfaces will cover up the top of the ports. And that's exactly where exhaust gas flow is the most intense!

Bottom line: Be sure to use a template or a gasket to ensure your header/manifold flanges and/or gaskets don't cover up the tops of the raised Vortec exhaust ports.

Here's an OE type gasket on stock GM Vortec head casting no. 062. You can where the ports are located relative to the bolt holes -- higher than on pre-1996 conventional head.



I used this Fel Pro gasket instead:


And I had to raise the openings on a pair of cast iron manifolds. Obviously, you'd be limited on how much material you could remove from headers. The good news is there's lots of gasket surface area on the heads.







1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


 
heidi 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24

Reg: 06-14-16
06-19-16 04:10 PM - Post#2634884    
    In response to Todd W. White

Not having a clean work area,you don't need dirt and debri in a rebuilt engine.Before I start,the area gets cleaned good free of dirt and debri.I learned this from a long time engine builder.Not cleaning bolt holes out good with a rethreading tap and die set.Follow the torque specs and don't jerk on the torque wrench after hearing the clicking noise with a clicker type torque wrench.A false torque reading is the result of jerking on the torque wrench after hearing the clicking noise.Double check your work too.



 
51 AD 3100 
Newbie
Posts: 47

Age: 53
Loc: Grant, AL
Reg: 08-30-20
09-29-20 02:56 AM - Post#2804487    
    In response to grumpyvette

quite a complete list (thank you !)
except i noticed the omission of clocking the piston ring gaps correctly.

Life's more fun, in a '51


 
51 AD 3100 
Newbie
Posts: 47

Age: 53
Loc: Grant, AL
Reg: 08-30-20
09-29-20 03:03 AM - Post#2804488    
    In response to grumpyvette

boy you hit the nail on the head with this one. I'm a union Millwright. i have a copy of my own compiled short list of "rules of my tools " taped up right in the lid. Most people even in passing stop and read then then I see that knowing nod and smirk once theyve read it. most times I get the verbal agreement of the list.

Life's more fun, in a '51


 


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