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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: S10/15, Blazer, Jimmy-Diagnostic information: 1991 & newer push button 4x4        (Topic#167344)
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-15-07 08:12 AM - Post#1231761    

New to the forum and to blazers so please be patient. My truck has the NP233 (I believe), I can't get it into 4wd high. It goes to 4wd L just fine? I was told to check under the battery tray for an actuator, it looked ok and held vacuum. Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks,
John



Edited by gchemist on 11-28-10 09:35 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-15-07 12:25 PM - Post#1231914    
    In response to kentuckian

I see it’s your first post. Welcome to the board.

If you have a model 233 transfer case (no transfer case select lever), it has a three position electrical rocker switch. It is designed so it cannot be switched from high range to low range or vice versa without an automatic transmission in neutral or manual trans clutch depressed, and vehicle speed must be below 3 MPH.

The TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) is capable of storing trouble codes.

Are the transfer case selector switch lights blinking? If they are, is it for 30 seconds then it stops, or are they blinking out a code.

NOTE: While the transfer case is shifting, the position encoder switch inside the electric shift motor is monitored for the proper operating sequence. (Without getting deep in the electronics of it)- if the improper sequence is detected more then 25% of the time, a code 2 will be set. If a code 2 has been set the TCCM reverts to a default mode in which only 2HI and 4LO are possible.




For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-17-07 10:08 AM - Post#1233461    
    In response to Chevytech

I haven't tried to pull the codes on the tccm yet. When I push 4 H the lights blink 5 times then either go out or both 4H and 4L lights come on? Sometimes I have to push the 2H button multiple times to get the 4H and 4L lights to go out. I'm suspecting a vacuum leak, (AC switches from dash to defrost by itself depending on how hard I push the gas pedal, and will switch back to dash when I let off). I am getting ready to attempt to check the 3 vacuum hoses going to the transfer case. They appear to go on top of the case out of sight, but I'll look at it again. I feel my ac and 4wd drive problems are related due to a vacuum leak, but I could be wrong.



 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-17-07 11:16 AM - Post#1233514    
    In response to kentuckian

I found the vacuum lines running to the transfer case and all looked good. I attempted to pull the codes from the tccm but I must have done something wrong as I didn't get anything at all. I read where I should jump terminals A and J at the diag port and turn the key on and check for the code, I got nothing? The drawing I found online showed terminal J being the third from the left on the bottom and terminal A being top terminal on the far right, these don't appear to be used? How should I check for codes in the tccm? Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-17-07 11:51 AM - Post#1233535    
    In response to kentuckian

I just can't remember which terminals to use on your OBD1 ALDL.
I will be back in a few minutes. I have to go look it up.

For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-17-07 11:59 AM - Post#1233545    
    In response to kentuckian

Does your truck have OBD1 – the top connector – or

OBD2 the bottom connector


Source
http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations /...

************************* ***********************
Diagnostic information: 1996+ OBD2 trucks with push button 4x4 issues.
Information posted by “cabot” #1007577 - 11/05/04 07:46 AM.b]


The diagnostic trouble codes are displayed on the three transfer case shift select buttons. The shift select buttons are located on the instrument panel when the connector pin 13 on the data link cable is grounded, and the ignition switch has been OFF for at least five seconds prior to positioning the ignition switch to run the shift select buttons will blink various times together in order to indicate a diagnostic trouble code from 1 to 4.
Position the ignition switch to OFF. Ensure the ignition switch is positioned to OFF for at least 6 seconds.
Connect pin 13 on the data link cable to a vehicle ground source. The data link connector is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the drivers side.
Position the ignition switch to RUN.
Note the shift select buttons for blinking codes. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Codes .
If the shift select buttons all blink one time and stop, and do not continue to blink, no fault codes are stored in the TCCM.
The transfer case shift select buttons will blink in order to identify any stored DTC. If only one code is stored in the TCCM memory, that code will blink repeatedly with a three second delay between blinking sequences. If more than one code is stored, the first code will blink once, then after a three seconds delay, the next code will blink. This sequence will continue until pin 13 is no longer grounded.
When reading the diagnostic trouble codes, the number of shift select buttons blinks will indicate the code number.


Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 1
When the ignition switch is positioned to RUN the TCCM test to determine if RAM standby Power (maintained battery power) to the TCCM was lost since the ignition was last turned OFF. When power is interrupted on pin C6 of the TCCM, the TCCM stores a loss of RAM standby power.

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 2
During electronic shifting, the TCCM check the motor/encoder for normal operation. If the motor/encoder does not function correctly enough times, the TCCM stores a motor/encoder failure DTC 2.

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 3
The TCCM performs a test each time the electronic-shift motor is turned ON or OFF. If the motor does not function properly the TCCM stores a motor circuit failure DTC 3, and the shift select buttons blink in order to inform the driver of a problem.

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4
Each time the ignition is turned ON, the TCCM tests the memory, the program, and the internal system in order to ensure that the TCCM is operating properly. If the TCCM detects a fault within the TCCM, the TCCM stores a RAM/ROM memory failure (DTC) 4.

When the TCCM is running a diagnostic, and a code 4 is displayed by the shift select buttons, replace the TCCM.



For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


Edited by gchemist on 11-29-10 06:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-17-07 12:09 PM - Post#1233552    
    In response to Chevytech

It's OBDII, it has 16 connectors on, looks like only a few are used though? Thanks for the help, this thing is getting the best of me. I'm getting ready to head for work, but if you come up with any suggestions I'll give them a try in the morning. Thanks again.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-17-07 12:12 PM - Post#1233554    
    In response to kentuckian

The instruction you had were for an OBD1 vehicle.

Here are instructions for your OBD2:
Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
Connect PIN 13 (5th from the left on the bottom)on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes.
When one DTC is stored in memory, that code will blink that number of times followed by a 3 second pause and then repeat.
If more than one code is stored, the first code will blink, followed by a 3 second pause and then the second code will blink



For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-18-07 11:47 AM - Post#1234152    
    In response to Chevytech

Ok, I do have a code 2. Can I just reset it and see if it comes up again? How do I reset it? Thanks again for all of your help. Once again I'm headed for work so I won't be able to try anything until morning.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-18-07 12:20 PM - Post#1234173    
    In response to kentuckian

Yes you can just clear the code and see if the codes resets. Sometimes the system will work for several uses before the problem/code returns.

Remove the TCCM fuse for 2.5 minutes. It takes a longer to clear the codes from the TCCM then most other systems. Reinstall the TCCM fuse. The system may have a code one now. Cycle the key on and off five times to clear the code one. Drive the truck and see if it will shift to 4HI.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-18-07 11:36 PM - Post#1234404    
    In response to Chevytech

I pulled the 4wd fuse (didn't see one labeled tccm) for a few minutes then put it back in and checked for codes and still got a code 2? I thought maybe I didn't leave it out long enough so I did it again leaving it unplugged longer, and still got a code 2. Am I pulling the correct fuse? Any ideas? Thanks again for all of your help, this thing is getting the best of me.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 08:31 AM - Post#1234534    
    In response to kentuckian

I don’t have a complete schematic for your vehicle to make sure on what the fuse is labeled as, but the manuals I do have say pull the “TCCM fuse”.

Another way you could clear the memory is to disconnect the battery. I don’t think a 1995 has a theft lock feature on its radio that will be affected by disconnecting the battery. If everything with the emissions system and computer is within normal ranges, no problems should arise from disconnecting the battery as long as you make sure key is OFF when you disconnect and connect the battery. I tell people to make sure the keys are in there pants pocket when doing this.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-19-07 08:57 AM - Post#1234553    
    In response to Chevytech

Chevytech you are the man! I thought about unhooking the battery after I posted last time. Sure enough it reset, then gave a code 1. I reset that like you suggested and now it seems to function properly! We're going to the beach later today and we'll check it out more. Hopefully this code 2 won't come back anytime soon. This is a cool forum that I luckily stumbled upon, I'll be sure and recommend it to my Chevy friends. Thanks again!!



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 09:09 AM - Post#1234558    
    In response to kentuckian

Excellent!!

Glad you got it working.

If it gets the code 2 again, the position encoder switch inside the electric shift motor is most likely failing, which is a fairly common problem.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-19-07 12:31 PM - Post#1234665    
    In response to Chevytech

Well, got to the beach and as soon as I pulled on the sand I got STUCK. The 4H light was on solid but the front wheels were not pulling. I tried 4L, both the 4H and 4L lights came on solid but still the front wheels wouldn't pull? I got some help and got out, I hit the 2H button to get the 4H and 4L lights to go out and the truck went into 4L? Had to hit the 2H a couple of times to get out of 4L. I am getting a code 2 again. Does this still sound like the encoder inside the electric shift motor? How can I test it, where can I get one, how big of a job is it to replace? I just bought this truck a few weeks ago and am losing confidence in it fast. I've already been through replacing the spider and radiator so I hate to give up on it quite so soon.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 02:34 PM - Post#1234733    
    In response to kentuckian

  • Quote:
I am getting a code 2 again. Does this still sound like the encoder inside the electric shift motor?

Yes

  • Quote:
How can I test it,

I have never tried to test one. The manuals use a process of elimination for other causes and then tell you to try a new encode switch assembly which is part of the motor.

I have never tried to take one apart and clean the contacts, which is what I would do if it were mine.

  • Quote:
where can I get one

The Chevrolet dealership will have it, but I would think the parts store would have them also.
I can’t remember how much it costs, but I do remember the price is high.

  • Quote:
how big of a job is it to replace?

It is on the transfer case in a not so easy to get to spot. The drive shaft is in the way, and it is kind of tucked up in a corner. It is not an easy, fun or a low cost task.

If the encoder is bad you should still be able to get the front axle engaged by putting it into 4L. If you drive it on pavement and turn, you should be able to feel the front axle is engaged because the truck should bind and rock when turning in a circle while in 4L.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 02:42 PM - Post#1234738    
    In response to Chevytech

There is a vacuum switch on the transfer case that can cause the front axle not to engage. Three vacuum hoses go to the switch. These switches do stick in the 2WD position.

If you put in 4L and the axle does not engage, with the truck running and in 4L, see if vacuum is applied to the actuator for the front axle. The actuator is located under the hood on the passenger side front corner under the battery.

I have the circuit memorized for the S/T truck that had a shift lever to use 4WD, but the front axle circuit for you truck I am not sure about.

Edit:
With the shift lever system the illustration of the front axle by the shifter will not light up if the front axle does not engage. I can’t remember what happens or how the system for the 233 transfer case would let the driver know if the front axle does not engage.

I will keep l digging in the manual I have for the 233 T-case.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


Edited by Chevytech on 08-19-07 03:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 03:35 PM - Post#1234757    
    In response to Chevytech

  • Quote:
I can’t remember what happens or how the system for the 233 transfer case would let the driver know if the front axle does not engage.

I will keep l digging in the manual I have for the 233 T-case.

The manual that I have is from GM and very detailed, but is NOT a service manual. It does not cover what would happen if the front axle does not engage on a 233 T-case S/T truck.

If you put it in 4WD drive and the front axle does not engage see if vacuum is applied to the front axle actuator. (There should be vacuum idling in park as long as it is in 4WD)

You could also see if you can turn the front drive shaft by hand (while the truck is sitting still, in park, engine off and in 4WD)



For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-19-07 03:55 PM - Post#1234766    
    In response to Chevytech

I jumped the gun a little, I went ahead and pulled the shift motor out. I was curious as to whether it was even turning or not and the condition of the coupling. The motor DOES turn when I push 4H, 4L, and 2H. The coupling looks good on the motor and the transfer case. I attempted to check the encoder with an ohm meter, but I just don't know enough about it to be certain. I already had the motor off when I saw your last post. I tried just plugging the motor in and testing the vacuum, but I guess it needs to be bolted back in place so the encoder could send a position signal? I got no vacuum when I tested, but like I said the motor was unbolted. It's only 3 bolts, after supper I'm planning to re-install the shift motor then check for vacuum at the actuator (what I should have done first). The actuator does work, it holds vacuum and pulls the shift cable with my vacuum pump(myself). I'll check back before I go back out to the shop in case there is something else I should look at before re-mounting the motor. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to include the details.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 04:38 PM - Post#1234794    
    In response to kentuckian

Well if you took the shift motor out you are doing ok. That is to hard of a job for some people I have tried to help.

The motor does have to be bolted on to test the vacuum operation.

If you are that mechanically inclined you will be able to fix the vacuum switch. At least temporarily.

If you get the transfer case in 4WD and there is not vacuum getting to the actuator, remove the switch from the transfer case. If you spray silicone lubricant on the plunger of the switch getting it up in it as much as you can, and then tap on the side of it with a hammer the plunger should pop out. Sometime the plunger will pop out before you get it all the way unscrewed from the transfer case. If you work the plunger in and out several times with lubricant on it, usually it will work well giving years of use before it sticks again.

My guess is your truck has at least two problems;
1- The encoder in the shift motor is bad
2- The transfer case vacuum switch is sticking



For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-19-07 04:51 PM - Post#1234801    
    In response to kentuckian

If you can read the terminal numbers on the shift motor wire connector, terminal #3 is the most important. It is the ground for all of the positioning information. The wire in terminal 3 of the connector goes back to the transfer case control module to ground. Look for any problem with the wiring terminal in position #3 on the connectors.

For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-20-07 08:31 AM - Post#1235217    
    In response to Chevytech

The wires looked ok, there was some oil in the connector though and a small amount of oil came out when I pulled the motor off of the transfer case. I had a lot of trouble putting the motor back on and getting it aligned, I had to "jack" it on somewhat with the screws to get it up flush. Is there a trick to putting that thing back in place? I was expecting it to slide back in, I took it back off a few times to verify the encoder position was aligned with the motor coupling. Anyway, I had my wife start the truck, put the transmission in neutral, hold the brake and operate the 4wd buttons while I had my hand on the output shaft of the transfer case, when it was actually in 4wd, I did have vacuum at the actuator, but the majority of the time when the lights said I was in 4wd, the output shaft still turned like it was in 2wd. That confused me because when the motor was off I could watch it turn when she pushed the buttons, and it appeared to respond by turning everytine she pushed a button. Is it possible the motor doesn't have enough power, I can shift the transfer case(motor removed) with a wrench, it feels ok and has distinct detents. I'm still scratching my head as to what to do next. I may pick up another shift motor ($160.), replace the leaking oil seal around the shifter, and clean the vacuum switch and see where I'm at then. Any suggestions?



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-20-07 11:18 AM - Post#1235359    
    In response to kentuckian

  • Quote:
I had a lot of trouble putting the motor back on and getting it aligned, I had to "jack" it on somewhat with the screws to get it up flush. Is there a trick to putting that thing back in place? I was expecting it to slide back in,


This is because you pushed the transfer case switch (4WD switch) while the motor was off the transfer case. The motor was not in the same position as when you took it off.

  • Quote:
there was some oil in the connector though and a small amount of oil came out when I pulled the motor off of the transfer case.

This is probably why the encoder is failing. It should be dry.

  • Quote:
Anyway, I had my wife start the truck, put the transmission in neutral, hold the brake and operate the 4wd buttons while I had my hand on the output shaft of the transfer case, when it was actually in 4wd, I did have vacuum at the actuator, but the majority of the time when the lights said I was in 4wd, the output shaft still turned like it was in 2wd.

The vacuum switch is working ok, but the encoder is not giving the motor the information it needs to shift the transfer case into the correct position.

Keep in mind the shift motor is capable of leaving the transfer case in a position where it is not correctly shifted into a range, when the encoder is not working correctly. The encoder has detection ability to see several positions between shift ranges when the encoder is working correctly, so it stops, where the detents are, correctly shifted into a range.

I feel quite confident that the encoder is the problem.

Your communication skills are excellent and it sounds like you have good mechanical ability also.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-21-07 11:45 AM - Post#1236266    
    In response to Chevytech

Just a quick update. After looking closer I didn't see a seal for the transfer shifter shaft and the parts house didn't show one either? Maybe the oil was coming out of the motor/encoder assembly? I cleaned and lubricated the vacuum switch, got the new shift motor installed, and driveshaft in place. Tomorrow morning I will re-connect the vacuum actuator and see what happens. I'll check back then. Thanks again for your help. (I'll tear into the old motor/encoder sometime and see if I can repair it and use as a spare. I really want to take the truck to the beach this weekend and drive on the sand.) I shouldn't be so lazy.



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-21-07 03:01 PM - Post#1236419    
    In response to kentuckian

I will be watching for you to post on how it works.

I have never opened a shift motor to see if the encoder can be cleaned up. Me know what you think when you get it open.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-22-07 11:15 AM - Post#1237088    
    In response to Chevytech

You're not going to believe this, got it all back together and the lights on the dash worked correctly and I could hear distinct shifting underneath. I was playing with it in the dirt beside my shop to confirm 4wd, and the front wheels never pulled? I pulled it back inside to check vacuum at the actuator. Well it did have plenty of vacuum but now the actuator has a big tear in it! I have one on the way and will have it in the morning. What else? There was some oil in the actuator, real light oil like auto trans fluid. Is that normal?



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-22-07 01:45 PM - Post#1237218    
    In response to kentuckian

It is rare for the vacuum actuator to fail.

  • Quote:
There was some oil in the actuator, real light oil like auto trans fluid. Is that normal?

No it should be dry. See if it smells somewhat like fuel. It could be condensed fuel from vapors working their way backward through the system from the intake manifold – the vacuum source. This could have contributed to the actuator failing.


For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


Edited by gchemist on 11-28-10 09:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-23-07 10:56 AM - Post#1237933    
    In response to Chevytech

We have 4wd! I sure wish I had more faith in it though? I wasn't able to locate any type of seal for the shifter shaft on the transfer case, even the dealer told me there wasn't one. Also the oil in the actuator, don't know what it is or where it came from. It didn't smell like gas, didn't really have a smell at all. Oh well, we're headed to the beach Saturday morning. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
John



 
Chevytech 
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 3758
Chevytech
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
08-23-07 12:42 PM - Post#1237988    
    In response to kentuckian

It was a pleasure helping you. Things progress fast enough that the subject kept fresh in my mind.

  • Quote:
I wasn't able to locate any type of seal for the shifter shaft on the transfer case, even the dealer told me there wasn't one. Also the oil in the actuator, don't know what it is or where it came from.

Maybe someone had the transfer case out while working on the vehicle and let it sit upside down. I have never seen oil leaking into the shift motor from the Transfer case. I am pretty sure there is an O-ring seal on the shift shaft.

It would be a good idea to check the transfer case vent to make sure it is not plugged. The vent is just toward the front of the vehicle from where the vacuum switch is located. Make sure the hose that connects to it is not kinked.



For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:

Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?

If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too.


 
kentuckian 
Member
Posts: 19

Age: 51
Loc: Wilmington, NC
Reg: 08-15-07
08-26-07 01:18 PM - Post#1240166    
    In response to Chevytech

We had a successful beach trip! 4wd worked flawlessly, thanks again chevytech.
John



 
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