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Username Post: Car shuts off after sitting re-start        (Topic#365372)
66cayne 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2955
66cayne
Reg: 08-06-08
05-29-21 02:29 PM - Post#2820787    

I just bought a '69 Camaro and it looks like I inherited someone's problem. I'm pretty handy with mech/electrical issues but this one has me baffled. Here's the issue. The battery/alternator charging system seems to be working fine based on my multimeter readings. When cool it starts and runs great. After running up to full temp, shutting the engine off and sitting for a while it will re-start for a short time then quickly shut down. Almost like the key was turned off. Will not start unless jumped. I've tested and found a parasitic drain from the blower motor/fan relay so I cannot turn it on and will need to replace it. I assume it may be some sort of heat soak issue but I can't isolate it. This is a repeatable condition which makes the car undriveable. Here are a few details on the car: new, stock 350/300hp crate engine, 4 speed, ac, ps, pb, new battery, new external volt reg., new horn relay, new Edelbrock 4 barrel, stock distributor with unknown electronic conversion and coil. Stock wiring harnesses (51 yrs old).Thoughts?



 


docjns1 
"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 216
docjns1
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 11-12-19
05-31-21 04:05 AM - Post#2820875    
    In response to 66cayne

  • Quote:
sitting for a while it will re-start for a short time then quickly shut down. Almost like the key was turned off. Will not start unless jumped. I've tested and found a parasitic drain



A few questions to help clarify...
1. re-starts but shuts down...immediately as in a few seconds or runs for couple of minutes?
2. needs to be jumped...does it turn over at all?
2a. if so normal or slowly?

As for the draw, normally that'd cause battery to drain while parked for longer periods requiring a jump to get started after being parked for longer time (several days for example)
...Before switching to a Pertronix system I tried another points eliminating brand/setup with stock distributor and had a similar issue restarting when warm..turned over but wouldn't fire up


Steve
*********
'65 Impala SS, Crocus Yellow/blk
327 / 300 L74
M11 3 on the tree
12 bolt 3.31 open dif


 
66cayne 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2955
66cayne
Reg: 08-06-08
05-31-21 06:40 AM - Post#2820883    
    In response to docjns1

It shuts down within a minute of restart.The shutdown is sudden, like the ignition was turned off. It will turnover but not start. I have not checked for spark when it happens. After it cools it will start again.



 
rumrumm 
"20th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2118
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
06-08-21 04:56 AM - Post#2821331    
    In response to 66cayne

I would check for spark when it will not start. I could be a problem with the electronic conversion unit getting hot.

Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 lb. ft. of torque @ 4300.



 
japete92 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1749
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
06-08-21 07:03 AM - Post#2821339    
    In response to 66cayne

  • 66cayne Said:
It shuts down within a minute of restart.The shutdown is sudden, like the ignition was turned off. It will turnover but not start. I have not checked for spark when it happens. After it cools it will start again.



IF it 'turns over' slowly:

Heat increases resistance in electrical components. One (of several) possibilities are the battery cables (either +, or -). "Bad" cables may already have some increase in resistance from 'wear and tear' that gets magnified by the normal increase in heat surrounding them.

A simple check is to 'jump' them (individually) with the jumper cable when the car shuts off (before it has a chance to cool down). For +, connect jumper cable directly to starter post; for - connect to ground. See what happens.

If either resolves the problem, replace BOTH. The OEM 6 gauge wire is 'marginal'. Recommend replacing with 2 gauge (less ambient resistance than the 6).

One vendor who will build custom wires is:

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/2-gauge-battery-c...

Specify length, gauge, color, connectors, and any other attributes you require. In my opinion, price is quite affordable; quality is excellent.

If it turns over properly:

There could be a similar problem with the wire that comes off the + cable that supplies power to the car electrical system (including ignition). It's the wire connected to the horn relay, or the voltage regulator. I do not have wiring diagram for your car so I'm not sure how your car is wired. You may have to 'extrapolate' this concept to your configuration.

A 'jumper' wire (bypassing the existing) may reveal any problems. I do not know the gauge of that wire for your car (10? 12? other?). Your wiring diagram will have that info.

The vendor 'linked' will also provide that 'wire' (if needed). Again, specify length, gauge, connectors, and color. IF ANY of these cables/wires are defective. Recommend replacing both the + and - cables. It's simply too inexpensive not to.

Just options/possibilities.

Pete




 


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