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Username Post: Front Brake Drums        (Topic#366668)
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
10-11-21 08:15 AM - Post#2828964    

Hi Everyone. I'm new to the forum and just purchased my first project. 1965 C20, an old Iowa farm truck. I have a rear axle to swap that would change from 8 lug to 5 and make it more drivable around home. My question is that I am looking for a way to convert the front to the 5 lug as well, but keeping the drum brakes for now. Planning a disc brake conversion in the future. Can I simply purchase new drums and put the studs in in the 5 lug pattern? Is there a difference between the C10 and C20 drums?



 


69_BOWTIE 
Senior Member
Posts: 1140

Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
10-11-21 09:47 AM - Post#2828968    
    In response to franz67

Get the spindles from a 5 lug truck/sub. up to 1989 use the newer ball joints and center steer section. If you can take everything brake booster steering box etc. I swapped my 63 over doing this got it all for $200.

2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327


 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 499
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
10-12-21 06:31 AM - Post#2829014    
    In response to 69_BOWTIE

69_Bowtie: You converted an 8 lug 3/4 ton C20 to 5 lug by just swapping spindles and using later model rotors etc? I know that going 6 lug 1/2 ton to 5 lug can be done that way, but I thought the 8 lug was a completely different system.
The 3/4 ton C20 has different brake shoes and different bearings than a 1/2 ton C10, so I would think that everything else is different too.
Is your issue with the 8 lug axle the gear ratio? Not sure why the 8 lug would be less drivable around home.



 
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
10-12-21 07:58 AM - Post#2829018    
    In response to jktucker92

It's geared really low. Don't even use first, and it tops out around 45-50 revved up pretty high. Previous owner threw in a 5 lug rear axle, which seems to be an easier swap. I'm new to all this and have researched a bunch but I'm sure there are subtle differences between c20 and c10. Front discs would be great but not a must have right now. I know there are some kits out there but just getting my feet wet for now. I appreciate the input from everyone,being new to the forum



 
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
10-13-21 06:19 AM - Post#2829072    
    In response to franz67

After much digging, I found this guy on youtube. He does excellent videos that show all the info you might need to work on these old trucks. Thought I would share it here so everyone might be able to spread it around!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93zqYbisbcg



 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 499
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
10-13-21 07:21 PM - Post#2829123    
    In response to franz67

The C20 is a completely different chassis than a C10. It's a heavier duty chassis for a higher load capacity. This includes larger brakes, bearings, etc. I would look for a 8 lug swap instead of trying to make the 5 lug fit.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?...



 
hilandr451 
Moderator & "12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3887
hilandr451
Loc: Houston, Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
10-14-21 11:52 AM - Post#2829156    
    In response to franz67

I have done the disc brake swap on my '66 C-20 but I stayed with 3/4 ton gear which meant 8 lugs. Although theyre aren't as many style options for 8 luggers I wanted to keep it a C-20. The C-10 and C-20 frames are virtually the same as far as dimensions and hole placement etc. how I did mine was I swapped an entire front cross member from an '89 3/4 ton suburban and it fit perfectly. I only needd to re-drill one hole on each side and relocate the idler arm.

Let's talk about what you're trying to accomplish with your truck:
You've swapped the whole rear axle/ differential assembly from a 1/2 ton truck because of the gear ratio and the 5 lug hubs. Now you want all the wheels to mach so you're looking to "convert"
the front hubs to accept 5 lug wheels.

Unless you have $pecial hubs fabricated, you aren't going to be able to bolt 1/2 tom hubs onto a 3/4 ton spindle. and the 3/4 ton control arms won't fit 1/2 ton steering knuckles (nor will they work with your steering linkage) and the 1/2 ton control arms won't fit on a 3/4 ton crossmember. (someone please fact check me there).

The way I see it, your best choice for a 5 lug front end conversion would be to do a front cross member swap with a later model 5 lug 1/2 ton. that way you get your disc brakes and if you do it right you can have real power steering as a bonus.


-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L,
1966 C20 Custom Camper "Rattle can primer red" 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
10-16-21 03:39 PM - Post#2829283    
    In response to hilandr451

I messed with it a bit this weekend. Havent swapped the rear end yet. After some thought, I'm thinking that keeping it a c20 isn't a horrible plan and I found some basic steel wheels that will work just fine. I'm just trying to make it more drivable.....first gear is like pulling stumps and fourth only gets me about 45 mph with some serious RPM's I really don't mind the 8 lug just looking to change the gearing if there is a straightforward option.



 
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
10-16-21 03:40 PM - Post#2829285    
    In response to franz67

although I just found an entire front end with cross member on Craigslist from a 70 C10....hmmm



 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 499
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
10-27-21 11:45 AM - Post#2829830    
    In response to franz67

Another option you could consider for making it more drivable is an overdrive. You probably have the old SM420 4 speed with a granny gear. Even with a normal 4.11 ratio rear end, the granny gear isn't used during normal operation. It's for pulling stumps. Essentially the SM-420 is a 3 speed, with a very low first gear for heavy pulling. I believe there were add-on overdrive units available for the SM-420, but they're probably rare and hard to find at this point. You could also consider an overdrive transmission. The NV4500 would be a nice upgrade and should be relatively straight-forward to install if you can find a 2WD version. I believe the early ones had a mechanical speedometer connection, which would be preferred. I installed a NV3500 in my '65 and it fit well. I did have to convert to an electronic speedometer, although there are adapters to drive a mechanical speedometer with an electronic signal. The NV3500 isn't as rugged as the NV4500, but it's considerably cheaper. The 0.73 overdrive gear in the NV4500 and NV3500 would be equivalent to 3.32 rear end gears in your truck, assuming you have the 4.56 ratio rear end.



 
franz67 
Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 10-03-21
11-07-21 12:25 PM - Post#2830390    
    In response to jktucker92

Hi All. Thanks so much for the feedback. I was able to source the front end crossmember and all the fixins from a 72 ½ ton getting me closer to the 5 lug disc brake setup. Don't currently have the equipment to do the entire crossmember swap in my garage.

Some online posts report the following. The 3/4 ton lower control arm has a bigger ball joint so just swapping the disc spindle won't match. They say that you can keep the upper control arm from the 3/4 and swap the lower control arm to get the correct ball joint setup so the top of the spindle uses the old ball joint, and the bottom matches the new ball joint in the donor lower control arm. Anyone have that experience? Other option would be to farm out the job and have the entire crossmember swapped at a shop. As I am a novice, i'm Trying the make it easy and learn by doing a lot of the work myself and become more knowledgable :smile :



 


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