 patgizz
Member #76
Posts: 8594
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
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02-12-07 05:42 PM - Post#1094798
someone wanted to see my brake setup in the "showoff your mill" thread. not sure if i ever put up all the info. i have most of the pics detailing it. this all stems from me a: not knowing there was a kit out there, b: not wanting to pay that much for a kit, and c: knowing i could do it.
first step was to make a template on 1/8" steel plate, i used a stock firewall power brake plate to make the template to place the center hole for the pushrod in proper location relative to the steering column.
then i scrounged around and found a 82-92 camaro booster in the garage. the hole spacing on the booster bracket was the same as that of my new booster from CPP(one of our sponsors). however, the camaro bracket held the m/c at a funky angle upward, and too far off the firewall. this required me to section the bracket and weld it back together, and used a couple small straps of 1/2x3/16 steel to brace where factory parts no longer were.
this bracket now properly connects the booster with the firewall plate.
1954 Belair
1972 Chevelle
1990 C1500 454/5 speed
1995 Impala SS
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patgizz
Member #76
Posts: 8594
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
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02-12-07 05:53 PM - Post#1094811
In response to patgizz
next up was find a suitable pedal setup. i had 3 to choose from. 90+ lumina(bad choice). 88-98 pickup(bad choice). and 86 camaro. great fit. i had to cut the clutch pedal and its half of the bracket off the assembly because i have an auto. this bolts to the plate with the same 3/8x1" through bolts that hold the booster bracket on.
a 3/8" rod end(heim joint) was threaded onto the pushrod of the booster, and connected to the camaro pedal. the pedal stock has a pin and the stock pushrod slips over and is clipped on. i ground the weld off the pin and pushed it out and was left with the proper 3/8" hole for my bolt to hold the rod end to the pedal.
backside image shows the pedal assembly is all set to accept a generic GM 2 post brake light switch
the pedal is not long enough stock, i had to bend up a new piece and weld it on to locate the pedal exactly where i wanted it. i may have to snag pictures of that.
this is the finished assembly bolted in
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low springs
Member
Posts: 87
Loc: Long Beach, CA
Reg: 09-01-04
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02-12-07 06:57 PM - Post#1094904
In response to patgizz
thanx for the pics. and great info. that helps out alot.
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51ChevySled
Senior Member
Posts: 1005
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 05-17-05
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02-12-07 11:59 PM - Post#1095084
In response to low springs
Awesome work Pat...I remember you posting info on your setup a while back, but never saw the pics. I'll definitely go that route the next time...beats the $500 for the Walton "bolt-in" kit with no instructions that I still had to modify to get to fit...these two items are not related   some of the holes on the pedal assembly didn't line up.
Bryan
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Root
Member
Posts: 78
Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
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05-29-07 10:30 AM - Post#1174798
In response to 51ChevySled
So how does it drive? I am curious about pedal feel etc. I am looking at doing this right now since the walton kit is now approaching 410 bucks. That's a lot of money for a weekend project.
Also, does your car have the M2 frontend?
Edited by Root on 05-29-07 10:45 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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patgizz
Member #76
Posts: 8594
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
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05-29-07 12:41 PM - Post#1174910
In response to Root
feels great. pedal pushrod geometry was kept the same as the camaro that donated the pedal assembly. i do have a TCI mustang II front end installed. running 11" discs in front and 12" in rear.
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EdG'52
Senior Member
Posts: 366
Loc: Eastern Pennsylvania
Reg: 01-11-04
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07-01-07 09:39 AM - Post#1198493
In response to patgizz
Hello Pat,
I'm not much on fabricating and I want to use the same brake setup that you are using. Would you be interested in fabricating your setup for me for a fee?
Ed
Ed
'52 Coupe Ledsled
in process... |
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Suicide-D
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Reg: 12-24-07
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02-23-08 04:41 PM - Post#1373010
In response to patgizz
Thanks for posting this info. I just finished mine up. I took the pedal assembly and proportioning valve and lines from an early 80's Monte Carlo. I used the Monte booster with a 70-77 Camaro Master cylinder. I didn't have to worry about any funky angle with this booster/pedal. This car stops better than my new truck. Probably stops too good.
Edited by Suicide-D on 02-23-08 04:42 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Rusted51
Forum Newbie
Posts: 22
Reg: 09-22-08
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01-26-09 04:34 PM - Post#1616278
In response to Suicide-D
so the stock bracket is basically cut in 2 pieces then rewelded?
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patgizz
Member #76
Posts: 8594
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
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01-26-09 05:49 PM - Post#1616346
In response to Rusted51
thats what i did because those parts were available to me.
you could probably snag a booster off any generic 70's gm with a vertical firewall(90* to the ground like a typical firewall). the 82-92 camaro firewall has a funky angle where the booster sits and is not typical. i just used what was free to me.
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73super
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9
Age: 60
Loc: Maple Valley, WA
Reg: 02-09-10
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02-12-10 11:40 AM - Post#1861397
In response to patgizz
Are you running drums or disc/drums? Is this a stock suspension setup? I see your steering altered....
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patgizz
Member #76
Posts: 8594
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
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08-18-11 05:46 AM - Post#2127241
In response to 73super
5 years and 4,000 miles later the brake system still works perfect so i think it has stood the time test.
man i wish my engine bay was still that clean, but alas i drive my car quite a bit, and never got around to making my inner fenders.
1954 Belair
1972 Chevelle
1990 C1500 454/5 speed
1995 Impala SS
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sperduton
Member
Posts: 70
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 12-27-02
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02-14-12 11:04 AM - Post#2190604
In response to patgizz
Anyone done this firewall mounted brakes on a stick shift car?
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joeltml
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12
Age: 60
Loc: United States
Reg: 07-18-12
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08-06-12 05:30 PM - Post#2256554
In response to patgizz
thanks I like what you did will go that way thanks alot.
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todztoyz
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4
Loc: The Great NW
Reg: 04-11-12
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12-09-12 07:32 AM - Post#2296321
In response to joeltml
I'm new here so no pics, but, I used a swing pedal out of a A-body, modified to fit,(bolts to firewall and dash and uses stock dash supports), bent the pedal around my column('65 Riviera), no booster as I beleive four wheel discs will stop fine without the grocery getter power assist. This setup is simular to the OP's, just another cheap route.(20 bucks for swing pedal)
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Cruiserr
Forum Newbie
Posts: 83
Loc: SLO Town, CA
Reg: 10-25-10
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04-11-13 09:20 PM - Post#2334912
In response to patgizz
Here's some shots of my unit.
CRUISER 
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chevyjay
Contributor
Posts: 128
Age: 44
Loc: Margate , Kent, UK
Reg: 11-20-13
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11-20-13 08:56 AM - Post#2401053
In response to patgizz
Hi, just found this thread, im doing a similar thing on my '51 styleline, im over in the UK so its not so easy to buy parts so like you i decided to make them, I have bought wilwood dynalite front calipers and am running a 2nd gen camaro rear with standard drums, im making my pedal to mount on the firewall, ive just bought a 7" dual booster and will be getting a wilwood master to go after i have built my pedal assembly...
I admit i am making it up as i go along a bit, but i think it will work out fine, as you will see i have had to make the pedal step to the side to clear the steering column, I have ended up with a pedal ratio of 6:1 which i think is a big fierce for a boosted system, I think i can tweek it down a bit to 5.2:1 by remaking clevis to pivot piece and shortening the pedal from 18.5 to 17.5.
This is what hotrodding is all about, trial and error and adapting as you go!
| 1951 Chevy styleline four door, getting the 350 sbc treatment.... |
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lobucrod
Contributor
Posts: 677
Age: 68
Loc: Slaton, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
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04-16-14 04:39 PM - Post#2445221
In response to chevyjay
Here's some pics of the setup in my '50 Sedan Delivery. the pedal assembly booster and prop valve came from about a 1990 Olds Cutlass.
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 Bel Air kiwi
DECEASED
Posts: 4558
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
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04-26-14 03:43 AM - Post#2447720
In response to patgizz
Hi Pat, Nice install. Do you get any issues with the firewall flexing? thanks Clive
48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.
"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus |
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JC73
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1
Reg: 06-30-14
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06-30-14 07:08 AM - Post#2465561
In response to patgizz
Hello,I am new to this forum but here goes  I have a 50 chevy fleetline deluxe sedan and just purchased front and rear disk brake kit from summit racing. Therefore, my question is what year and make of car's brake system would be best with less tweaking needed? I heard of a 1989- Bonneville could work. Can anyone help me with this? ty 
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Bel Air kiwi
DECEASED
Posts: 4558
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
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12-13-15 11:10 PM - Post#2595370
In response to todztoyz
Hi Todz toys. You will be badly disappointed in a road car with discs and no booster as the pressure required to apply disc brakes is much higher and that's basically the only reason boosters were originally used. Pretty much everything has them new now as almost all new cars are disc.
Sure they have been retrofitted to some drum only cars and they stop better but discs have such large pistons that you need far more pressure in the lines to make them work to their best. Unless you are built like a line backer you are going to need boosting. And the heavier and faster the car the more you will need.
Cheers Kiwi
48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.
"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus |
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Bel Air kiwi
DECEASED
Posts: 4558
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
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12-13-15 11:16 PM - Post#2595371
In response to Cruiserr
Hi Cruiser, I like the way your unit is braced back to the steering column mount. That should support the firewall when you have to do a panic stop. It's amazing how much force is applied to these in panic situations. Plus the weight of the booster and master cylinder is just hanging off these if you don't run a brace leg.
Cheers Kiwi
48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.
"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus |
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 gcrkfrd
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 219
Age: 74
Loc: Neosho, MO.
Reg: 04-01-18
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05-24-19 07:28 AM - Post#2767015
In response to Bel Air kiwi
Hello, I have a question. I put firewall mounted pedal and MC and Booster on, have drums on all four. Just have enough pedal to stop or slow if it is barely rolling.
| They asked me, why a Four door, and a Six, and I told them, JUST BECAUSE. |
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tipshep
Newbie
Posts: 3
Reg: 04-11-16
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08-07-20 03:15 PM - Post#2800561
In response to gcrkfrd
Do you have the proper length rod in place? you don't want any pressure on the booster, will cause brake to burn up. I used a 57 Chevy brake pedal on my 54 Delivery years ago, had to slightly ream the holes for the column u bolt. It did suck the little bolt on panel back a bit, but used a 57 regular master with zero issues. A flat spacer of 3/8-1/2" would probably space the thing out a bit as to not suck in the panel, would most likely have to use longer bolts/studs and lengthen the brake rod as well, if I recall it is adjustable.
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