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Username Post: 1 piece drive line or 2 piece?        (Topic#79827)
dirtrider 
Member
Posts: 21

Reg: 07-08-03
11-03-04 04:24 AM - Post#544556    

i was wondering if i could put a single driveline in my truck instead of the stock 2 piece. i have a 64 c10 fleetside longbed. thanx to all who reply.



Edited by hilandr451 on 01-18-09 10:07 AM. Reason for edit: changed title

 
Chevy1966pu 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 8221

Reg: 01-05-02
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 04:29 AM - Post#544557    
    In response to dirtrider

Absolutely, but why? I'd leave it two piece on a long bed. Unless you are putting a much longer transmission/ overdrive unit in...



 
dvalentine 
Senior Member
Posts: 9356

Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 06-22-00
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 05:49 AM - Post#544558    
    In response to dirtrider

There is an article in December's Classic Trucks on this very subject. It dosn't address the longbed but, it does state recommended lengths. For a longbed, stay with a two piece.

DV



 
persh 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1491
persh
Loc: Tucson, Arizona
Reg: 07-19-00
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 06:58 AM - Post#544559    
    In response to dirtrider

I replaced my complete drive train in my '65 LWB with a 350 and a 700R4 transmission and ended up using the one-piece drive shaft from the '83 Suburban that it all came out of. I had to have it shortened but it fits nice and works great.

'60-'66 Idea Page or Corvair Stuff


 
dirtrider 
Member
Posts: 21

Reg: 07-08-03
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 11:24 AM - Post#544560    
    In response to persh

the reason i was wondering is because i keep breaking mine right where the carrier bearing is, i have a turbo 350 in there now mated to the stock 283. my hp combined with the way the tranny was built put's too much stress on that center joint. persh if i get a driveshaft out of a burb and shorten it it will work without any interference??

much appriciated guy's
p.s sorry about the spelling.



 
Keith1965 
Old as Dirt Member
Posts: 5368
Keith1965
Loc: Portland, Or USA
Reg: 11-23-02
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 11:30 AM - Post#544561    
    In response to dirtrider

Hey Dirtrider,

I have heard of this done many times on short beds and a few times done on long beds. Only problem is a lot of people get into lowering their truck and this is when a 1 piece comes into issue on a long bed. As long as you are at stock height and plan on keeping it there it should be fine. I imagine you could drop it a few inches (we are talking about 2 maybe 3) and still be fine. If you have bags it is completely out of the question I had planned on a 1 piece it is not going to happen, due to the fact I am baggin' it.

Keith

'64 SWB Under Construction: 2.5 inch Z, Custom lower A-arms, 3 inch drop spindles, drop dropped, raised bed floor, custom back half, 4 link and much much more!


 
dirtrider 
Member
Posts: 21

Reg: 07-08-03
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 11:35 AM - Post#544562    
    In response to Keith1965

thanx keith i don't plan on lowering it.i just need somthing that will work.



 
dvalentine 
Senior Member
Posts: 9356

Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 06-22-00
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 01:03 PM - Post#544563    
    In response to dirtrider

Quote:

i keep breaking mine right where the carrier bearing is, i have a turbo 350 in there now mated to the stock 283. my hp combined with the way the tranny was built put's too much stress on that center joint. persh if i get a driveshaft out of a burb and shorten it it will work without any interference??





When the trans was installed, was the pinion angle of the rear checked? The angle of the tran's tail shaft needs to be close to the pinion angle of the rear.

After repairing the carrier bearing did you notice vibrations at various speeds?

DV



 
chevytrucknut 
Senior Member
Posts: 386
chevytrucknut
Loc: Vancouver,WA
Reg: 08-27-02
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 02:49 PM - Post#544564    
    In response to dirtrider

I would loose that two piece. I have replaced a 2 piece with a 1 piece on more than a few trucks. Stock and lowered, with nothing but great results. Just take both ends to a driveline shop. Take a measurement between center of yoke to yoke. If you plan to use your truck as a truck and haul heavy loads you may want to keep the 2 piece. Also I'm not sure about a 1960-62 long wheelbase with 3 spd. since the X frame has a longer driveline tunnel, the driveline may hit the bottom.

'65 short wide,fact. a/c,383ci. stroker,TH350,pdb
'65 long wide,283,powerglide,pdb
'65 suburban,283,4 spd,a/c
'64 short narrow,350,th350-parts rig
http://community.webshots.com/album/286225042IFOyw...


 
1oldtimer 
Senior Member
Posts: 330
1oldtimer
Loc: Orange County, Ca.
Reg: 08-08-04
Re: driveline ???
11-03-04 09:39 PM - Post#544565    
    In response to dirtrider

i still have the 2 piece in my '64 panel ('60 el camino and '61 bel air), after having a slip yoke put in the rear section, i've had no trouble in any of the cars. there's no need to go to the 1 piece............. viva la 2 piece.....

'60 Chevy El Camino
'60 Studebaker Lark Wagon
'59 Hillman Husky (2-because you need parts)
'56 Chevy Panel truck
'47 Ford 2dr Super Deluxe
'41 Ford Pickup
'36 Ford 5w coupe
'28 Ford Tudor
They're all projects in some form.


 
longhorn_man 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1931

Age: 45
Loc: Columbus Ohio
Reg: 02-02-02
Re: driveline ???
11-05-04 12:45 PM - Post#544566    
    In response to 1oldtimer

I had a friend with a 67 LWB fleet side truck with a big block and a 3800 RPM stall converter...this sucker was in the 12's...slicks and all. Never had an issue with his drive shaft.
Something is not right with your truck. There is no way a 283 can ever have the power to do any damage at all to a properly set up drive shaft.
There are issues with going to a 1 pc shaft in a LWB truck. If the drive shaft is to be over 6 feet long, amny shops will refuse to do it...and some of the shops that will do it...probably shouldn't. (This is even more important with an overdrive tranny since the shaft will be turning faster than the crank) The problem is the shaft will tend to whip at speed. This is where the cintrifical forces from the weight of the shaft makes it kinda sag a little, then the off ballance will make it hop. (Remember as a kid when you'd place your bike upside down on it's handle bars and crank it real fast by hand? The reflector in the spokes would cause an imbalance and make the bike hop a little...esp if the reflector was placed close to the valve stem instead of 180 degrees from the stem...like it was supposed to be placed)
In order to make the drive shaft and do it properly, you need to make the outside diameter considerably larger than stock. once you start making the shaft larger, you lose even more room in that confining hole for the drive shaft.

I know it has been done...i know it has been done with no ill efects...however, to have it done properly (I would demand a warranty or go to another driveline shop) you will probably pay quite a bit of cash for the job.

IMO, you'd be better off finding out what the real problem is under your truck.

1972 C/10 burb, 68 nose, SLAMMED... 402/TH400/3.07 <--- Chicks dig it!
1970 C/30 Longhorn, GMC nose...Caddy 425/TH350/4.10 one of 1404 built
www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com


 
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