 4dr 57
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4860
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
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10-05-24 07:14 AM - Post#2874429
Is anyone familiar with this set-up?
The problem here is that the bottom part of the zerk fitted idler arm bearing assembly doesn't rotate on the bearing. It is rotating on the nut and at the bottom bearing assembly. It is installed correctly but even at minium torque, the only thing keeping the nut from coming loose is the cotter pin. The top bearing with the zerk fitting works ok. It's like any time I try to get the castilated nut around to a matching hole at the torque reccommendation,(10-14 lbs) there's this problem. Less torque dosen't help anything.
I've tried a thinner steel washer and had the same problem, the washer assembly caves in on the bearing. Moving the arm back and forth destroys the rubber seal.
Of course, any help with this would be appreciated as I have no clue what's wrong.
Maybe the spacing is wrong because of the zerk fitting is what I'm thinking but anyone with the zerk fitted assembly may be able to change my mind and show me something i'm not seeing. Thanks.
Later today -
Researching back to 2005 to 2010 here on CT were some replies that suggest (as I was considering trying) putting a zerk between the bearings on each set.
Another reply was concernedd about their deteriated rubber seals. I went to Lowes and found plenty of 2-1/2" by 1/2" hole 1/16" rubber seals that may be ok for replacements. maybe. Neoprene might be better?
Saturday 10/6/24
On reviewing some remarks I have read from previous Posts here, about the only thing I question is why the centrally located zerk fitting when it is the top bearing that needs the most attention? Good seals aside, does lube grease simply puddle like water with no increase or decrease in volume? Or increase in pressure?
This would end the complete teardown for required service if so!
My logic tells me that was the idea behind the top bearing mounted zerk to begin with, as leaking lube on to the ground could be replaced. The problem with that is that it takes up too much space, decreasing the amount of travel for the nut at the bottom to meet the proper torque while meeting the cotterpin slot.
Perhaps instead, carving out a shallow recess in the frame of the idler arm itself would allow the fixture to recess downwards which should allow the bolt to meet it's duty requirement in the allotted space.
There are plenty here much more gifted at figuring stuff out than I, so please comment, question on this idea. Thank You Very Much!
Stanley
Edited by 4dr 57 on 10-06-24 06:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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