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Username Post: heat
Senior Member
Posts: 369
Loc: Sunny So.Cal.
Reg: 09-25-02
06-08-21 11:49 AM - Post#2821351    
    In response to Moparman

@ Pete ;

First things first, hot check and adjust the valves .

As mentioned, placing your palm flat against the radiator and moving it from side to side going down from the top with the engine idling, will quickly indicate any clogged tubes .

The timing on these engines is critical ~ there's the BB on the flywheel, it is used to check / adjust the timing at hot idle, there should be NO VACUUM SIGNAL to the dizzy with the engine idling ! .

Set to ball on pointer at or below 600 RPM .

The TDC mark on the flywheel is a triangle, it's very often faintly stamped and hard to see, I like to remove the scatter pan and wire brush the two marks and ad paint marks to make them more visible .

FWIW, as long as you have a pressure cap and you're not loosing coolant it's NOT OVERHEATING .

Remember : each pound of system pressure increases the boiling point of plain water by 3 degrees , I assume you're running a coolant mix so you're well within normal range .

Harbor Freight sells nifty and inexpen$ive I.R. thermometers, I bought the fancy one on sale for $20 years ago and it's still working fine, use it to discover hot spots in the radiator or engine's water jacket .

Before you $pend big $ on a new radiator, try flushing the entire system with citric acid and distilled water, this works a treat .

'49 3100 Series Pickup W/'57 235 & Muncie M420 ~ SOLD & Missed .

'69 C10 Stepside shortbed L6 250 , TH350 , P.S. & B.B. side mount spare , NEW Shop Truck soon to have factory AC !

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