Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Classic Industries
American Auto Wire
Danchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomNu-Relics Power Windows

Username Post: 2 dr hardtop full floor replacement
Posts: 20

Reg: 12-05-18
04-04-21 11:57 PM - Post#2817496    
    In response to craig32

I just happen to have two cherry pickers too. Initially I thought maybe the full pan was short enough to go thru window opening on a hardtop. Now I am not so sure.

Will be pulling the stuck motor and transmission shortly. Front clip is just sitting on it now.

On a YouTube video I watched, they left rear mounts loosely attached and raised just the front high enough to get the floor in from the front. But, I have no rear mounts with enough left to do it that way. Trunk rear crossmember is too far gone.

Looks like I will have to fix that before floor. Perhaps stick new poly mounts temporarily in those 3 rows ahead of axle to get the rear brace aligned with remains of existing floor first before cutting it out.

Pulled the gas tank today. My trunk floor still looks surprisingly good, but maybe after I run a stripper disk or 3 over it more deterioration will be revealed.

Looking from the rear underneath, the three braces inside frame on both sides starting at axle going forward appear to be mostly intact, but the rubber is so far gone the floor is sitting on the frame at rear axle frame peak.

Inside the trunk, it looks pretty decent considering it is original. But, the rear mounts and about 4-6 inches of trunk floor (including area below valance under trunk extending outward) are sketchy, pitted, holes, fiberglass mesh on tail valance or what is left of it.

So unless I find the trunk floor is actually worse than it looks so far, I will just get the rear repair piece in and put the new rear crossmember in the existing trunk.

Could you elaborate on exactly why the flex was needed on your installation. I am thinking the doors welded on inside is the way to go to straighten out the body lines.

I think this car may have been hit on the driver side, evidenced by some funky body work at left trunk to quarter joint, plus I suspect the left door post might be out of whack and cowl has some bondo on top of left side to raise it up. Top of left fin over to trunk has some on it too.

If it was hit in the door post it would tend to pull the cowl top down a bit. The passenger side of cowl has no filler and post looks good, so will figure out the driver side based on that.

Cannot get close to lining up doors either side though, so maybe the whole cowl has sunk on top of the left door post being out of whack. Maybe I will even have to detach the post and re-position it. Hopefully a hinge rebuild will do it though.

I will be talking to the people I got the car from Tuesday, so I will see if they have any idea if left side was ever hit. Suspecting that may be why less rust on the left side than right.

Those panels were perhaps replaced after an accident. Front of wheel left quarter, not any rust holes. Right side has holes and bondo on front of quarter, plus wheelhouse inside is rusted thru and left side looks solid still. Can see the tire from back seat area on right side.

I have mostly done body work on old Fords. The rear wheel houses on this Chev are really odd compared to the Fords. I will do the wheel house when lower quarter is cut off on left side too, I guess.

Yes, some floors with braces have inner rockers. I put in an inquiry to the vendor about that to see if they are included.


Edited by Brushwolf on 04-05-21 12:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
NOTE: You are viewing an individual Post. View the Entire Topic
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.09 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 03:39 AM