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Username Post: Cylinder Disk Brake Conversion Kit
Jack Crain 
Contributor
Posts: 879

Loc: Wichita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
10-04-15 06:47 AM - Post#2580027    
    In response to Jack Crain

Brake Lines, Bleeding and adjusting......


I removed all lines EXCEPT the rubber line at the rear axel and the rear axel steel brake lines.
Starting at the front right, and using the old line as a template, I cut, bent and flared a replacement. Since I was using the existing front "T" block, I had to use 7/16x24 nuts with 3/16 hole. AutoZone to the rescue. Good thing I went that way because I couldn't find and of the 3/8x24 tube nut anywhere in town The rubber lines that were "Made for this kit" turned out to be regular flex lines for disk brakes so I had to use reducers to go down to male 3/8x24. I made up the other front line and for the supply line I ran it along the same route as the existing supply line except instead of running from "T" to mid "T" I made a 90 degree turn about 10 inches, along the transmission cross member, installed the 2 psi valve and then on to the rear outlet of the new master cylinder. In this installation, the Master cylinder is installed backward from what it is normally designed for. So, the back is really the disk side and the front goes to the drums. I made a line from the front port along the cross member to midway between the trans and the frame on the right hand side. I bent a piece of 3/16x1 inch flat stock 90 degrees about 2 inches each side to mount the adjustable proportional valve to. I bolted the angle to the top of the cross member and attached the prop valve with the knob pointing up. Next, was a line made to go back to the rubber line at the rear end.

I rechecked and made sure all lines were tight then filled the master cylinder to begin the bleed process. Since I was by myself, I fill a plastic bottle with a couple of inches of new brake fluid, stated at front left wheel put a clear plastic tube over the bleeder and started the bleeding process. On the drum circuit, I screwed the prop valve in all the way, I don't know if that was required or not but it worked out good. I crawled back under the car to check for leaks and all was good.

I had a bit of trouble with the front left wheel getting hot and locking up but a neighbor came to the rescue. It seem that sometimes a new rotor and new brake pads don't always play nice together. I don't know if what we did was proper, but it worked. What we did was take one of the pads and sanded just a tiny bit of the friction material off so it wouldn't be so tight.
To adjust the proportional vale, Screw it all the way in, then back it all the way out, counting the turns. Then turn it back in HALF of the turns. This is a starting point. After braking in the new disk pads ( Google it, there are a few different ways) then you can get down to adjusting the prop valve. Basically, you stomp the brakes and make sure the back brakes don't lock up. A dirt road is good for this. If they don't lock up, turn the prop valve in one turn and try it again. Keep doing this until they lock up then back off one turn.

I hope this helps anybody that plans on doing this mod. The cost wound up being more than I planned on but at least now I know I can stop a lot shorter than I could before the mod.

Tomorrow I should have a list of what you could bye from the local parts house and knock a lot of the price down. PM me if you're interested.
1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan with '57 235
Fenton Dual Exhaust and Intake
Dual Carter Webbers 2 barrel Carbs
HEI ignition
Front Disk Brake
T-5 Tranny

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