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Username Post: Cylinder Disk Brake Conversion Kit
Jack Crain 
Contributor
Posts: 879

Loc: Wichita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
10-04-15 05:41 AM - Post#2580021    
    In response to Jack Crain

Replacing the master cylinder ........

This is using ECI adapter sold by Chevys of the 40s and a 1976 Mustang Disk/Drum Manual Master Cylinder. Sorry, no pictures.

Remove the bolts on the forward side of the firewall where both the brake and clutch pedals come through and attach to the arms going down to the pivots.. Save all hardware. Crawl under car, remove brake line from back side of old master cylinder. Disconnect the clutch linkage and spring from clutch arm, and remove brake spring. Remove two bolt holding master cylinder to frame. I have dual exhaust on my 46 so I had to pull the old master out from the back. If you have single exhaust, maybe it would be easier from the front. Slide the master back, turning as necessary to allow the brake and clutch arms to clear all the other crap in there. Once you get it out, remove the grease fitting from between the two pivot mounts on the front of the master. Take a 10-32 screw, about 1 and a half inches long and screw it into the hole down in the master in the hole where you removed the grease fitting. Pull straight out and a small piece that locks the pivot arms in will slide out. Make note of which arm goes in which hole. Set them aside. install boot onto new master cylinder and slide in new push rod. Use two bolts to attach the new master to the adapter. The holes are slotted so adjust the new master so it/s not in a bind. Tighten two bolts. Install brake and clutch arms in adapter. There isn't any facilities for greasing so I just coated the arms with grease before sliding them in. The method for holding the pivots in, in my opinion, is chintzy at the least, but it's their kit so I used their method. They use two small pieces of steel flat stock that just sort of rides on the end of the arms. One side is too far away and the other is too close, so I would up bending the long one and just held the short one in place and tightened up the bolt to keep it in place. It's pretty Mickey Mouse but it works. With everything tight, crawl back under the car and reinstall the new master, adapter and brake and clutch arms in reverse order of how you removed the original. It helps to have someone guide the arms up through all the crap. Make sure you get the brake switch lever in the right place. I had to reverse the mounting bolts, that is, I slid the bolt up through the frame and put the nuts and washers on top.
Reattach the pedals, connect the brake arm to the push rod. When you adjust this rod, the one that actually goes into the master cylinder, make sure that there is a little bit of free travel before it actually touches the piston inside the master cylinder. Now, you reinstall brake spring and clutch rod and spring.
About this time, I decided to cut an access panel in my floor, because when I looked into the existing servicing hole, I could only see about 1/2 inch of the lid on the new master cylinder. I extended the existing hole towards the back about 5 inches. Now I can get to the lid to service the fluid.
New Master cylinders require "Bench Bleeding". The kit that came with my new master was just a couple of plastic plugs you screw into the outlet ports and pump the brakes until you stop seeing air bubbles in the reservoir. The hole I cut in the floor worked out good for this, I could hand push the brake pedal and observe the fluid/bubbles.
1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan with '57 235
Fenton Dual Exhaust and Intake
Dual Carter Webbers 2 barrel Carbs
HEI ignition
Front Disk Brake
T-5 Tranny

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