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Username Post: Timing issues
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3369

Reg: 04-15-05
01-01-18 08:21 PM - Post#2719733    
    In response to malibu27

Just whom do you think "Dave the ignition guy" is?

Try "IgnitionMan". Why the special email for the vacuum advance info? Well, a whole lot of people that always recommend their pals for services in topics, got the impression I was "advertising" for my products, when that was the furthest thing from my intentions. As you can see in the info, that is purely to get the vacuum advance correct, no ads anywhere. So, I set up the pictures and instructions email to get the vacuum advance info out, without all the tearful crying, and false accusations.

Hope you take a close look at the info. Should help, it has for everyone that has done it.

Please outline the PCV system you had, valve from one valve cover to vacuum fitting on the carb, other side has a free open inlet hose, air filter base to valve cover, I hope. Because if there ISN'T an inlet for fresh air into the engine, the suction will suck the pan dry.

The keys are, the right valve spring tension for the PCV, and, the correct volume for the valve. Example: I have a 1972 Vega street car, 5 speed, nice rear end, power 4 wheel disk brakes, power/tilt steering, A/C, name it, its there. The engine was a 1963 200 horse all Aluminum Buick 215 V8, 300 aluminum heads, big valves, nice Crower cam, 300 Buick .600 stroker crank, Chevy rods, 305 Chevy pistons, all the good stuff.

That engine had a PCV system that used a 90 degree PC valve, with 16 inch vacuum to match the carb/engine vacuum. But, the volume of pulled air was too great, so, I made an aluminum slug for the vacuum line, with a 3/16ths hole, PCV worked well.

The new engine is a variation of the Buick, Rover 4.6 all aluminum, 300 heads, 300 stroker crank, a different Crower cam, Corvair big valves, welded heart shaped combustion chambers, 305 Chervy pistons, and, a full-on large air meter, 5.0 Mustang EFI nozzle tuned port EFI system that the stock Rover PC valve works nicely with. And, the entire engine still weighs 335 pounds.

What I do is figure out the specifics of the engine, and match up the PC valve I would use for the same scenario in my engine, and go from there. The valve I used in the 215 Buick was from a low horsepower 2bbl 390 FE Ford.

As far as AFR gauges, my take, serious useless, and I use the "read the plugs, look at the exhaust, feel the thing in the seat of your pants" gauge, and it works so much better than all that gauging that wants you to tune it to its whims, not what the engine tells me.

You see, the gauge may well dictate to run this setting, when common sense in the driver's seat screams another setting works better.

I just watched an old "Twilight Zone" with William Shatner. He had car troubles in a small town, and while it was being repaired, he went to eat, and started feeding a fortune telling machine. It got to the point he was feeding pennies into this machine as fast as he could throw them at it, and believing what it was telling him, instead of looking for himself, using his own common sense.

To myself, AFR gauges and dial back features on timing lights are much like that fortune telling machine, stick a penny in, blindly believe what it tells you, not what you can see with your own eyes, and feel with your butt.

Now, please, don't think I am insisting on you doing anything I say, you do as you wish. All I am here to do is help, you go forward from where you are, accept, reject, your choice.


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