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Username Post: Timing issues
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3361

Reg: 04-15-05
01-01-18 09:20 AM - Post#2719642    
    In response to malibu27

Yes, that is the correct stand alone stop plate, but DO NOT mount it the way Crane says to, that will make things much worse. Crane p/n 99619-1

If you want a complete instructions and pictures package, ask for one, they get the vacuum advance fixed correctly.

Gmvacuumadvancemodificati ons@gmail.com

There is no charge for them, and you can run the correct full manifold vacuum without problems.

Since the stroke on a 383 is long, your 10 degrees is like 14 on a shorter stroke engine, so, you are in the right places for both initial and curve, but not for IDLE.

That engine would like 18 to 22 deg/BTDC @ IDLE, but it wouldn't like it all in initial degrees. So, how to get 10 initial, and, say, 20 idle?

Simple, set the vacuum advance degrees stop to give 10 degrees, and plug the vacuum advance into full manifold vacuum. Engine will start easily, idle timing will be where the engine wants to be, engine will run better.

You definitely want to use the vacuum advance, and need to do the mods before finish dialing the carb in.

I also advise NOT using the dial back feature on any and all non-computerized ignition systems. Add a timing tape, and leave the dial back OFF.

BTW, you mentioned aluminum heads, shoot for 192/195 deg/F. Coolant temp, not cooler. Aluminum heads dissipate heat more rapidly than cast iron, too cold an engine temp with them makes for problems not easily resolve, until the coolant/engine temp is brought up.
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