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Username Post: Cylinder Disk Brake Conversion Kit
Jack Crain 
Contributor
Posts: 879

Loc: Wichita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
10-04-15 04:47 AM - Post#2580009    
    In response to Jack Crain

The work begins.......

First thing, jack up both front wheels and place jack stands under the car to make it safe. You will be under the car a LOT and you wouldn't want it to fall on you. I only have pictures of the right side installation of the rotor and caliper. Sorry!

First, remove tire and roll it out of the way. Next, pop off the dust cover covering the outer wheel bearing. Remove cotter pin, nut, large washer, outer bearing and remove the hub. Just pull it straight off the spindle. Set the big nut and washer off to the side, you will re use them. Next, disconnect the rubber brake line at the frame where it connects to the steel brake line.
Next item is the four bolts that hold to back plate to the spindle. You don't need to remove the brake shoes, just leave them on the back plate. The top 2 bolts just go thru the back plate and spindle and are held in place by split lock washers. They are TIGHT!!!!!!!Use a Box End wrench on the nuts and a socket on the bolt heads. Did I mention that they are TIGHT!!!!!! You may have to get a wire brush to clean off the nuts so your wrench will get a good fit. If you round off one of these, well, they are TIGHT!!!!
After you get the nuts off, leave the bolts installed. The two bottom bolts go through the backing plate, spindle and the steering arm. They have castellated nuts with cotter pins. Oh, and these two are even tighter than the top two.
After you get the two lower nuts off just slide the backing plate off. You may need a little penetrating oil on the blots and work the with your ratchet to get them out. The steering arm might fall when you are pulling the plate off so be ready for it. Lay the plate down and remove the bolts. There are 1/4 " spacers between the brake shoe setup and the backing plate. Save these spacers and one of the longer lower bolts (the ones that held on the steering arm) and set it aside, you will need it later. If all worked out so far it should look like this:



Clean the spindle, front AND back. Next take the right hand adapter, the big 3/8 metal bracket and place it on the back side of the spindle. Use the spacers that came with the kit on the top two bolts. These go between the bracket and spindle, NOT under the head of the bolt. Using one of the original lower bolts, attach it to the front lower hole in the spindle then thru the steering arm. Use the new supplied bolt in the rear hole of the spindle. Note: Make sure ALL four bolts are thru the spindle and bracket and steering arm before tightening any of the nuts. Install supplies nuts on new bolts, and use 2 of the OLD spacers under the nut of the OLD bolt in the front of the steering arm. Tighten all nuts really tight.



Note the spacers under the TOP bolts and none on the bottom bolts. In this picture, it looks cocked a little but it is straight




Next, CLEAN the spindle of ALL dirt and grease and install machined bearing and seal adapter onto spindle. This is a pinch fit and needs knocked on. DO NOT damage the adapter, your inner bearing race and grease seal rides on this. I used an oak 2x2 about a foot long as a drift and pounded it on. It will take a while. Make sure you get it ALL the way home.



The rotor comes with a inner race for the original bearing. Since this is a mod, you will need to remove the inner race from the rotor. After the old is removed, install the new one supplied in the kit. Make sure you bottom out the inner race, pack the bearing with grease and install the supplied grease seal






Slide the rotor onto the spindle, pack outer bearing with grease, install outer bearing, supplied large 1/4 spacer, your old large washer and your old nut. Torque to around 30 ft lbs and leave cotter pin out for now. Make sure the rotor turn freely with little effort by hand.
Remove the two slider pins from the caliper, install caliper on bracket and install slider pins. Tighten slider pins. NOTE.... With new pads and new rotor, it might be a bit hard getting the caliper in place., work on it but do not use grease, it will go on.







Try to turn the rotor by hand, It will be stiffer with the caliper on and you will hear a dragging sound but if you can turn it by hand you should be ok. If it can be tuned by hand, install cotter pin. and new dust cap.(AutoZone has them).
1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan with '57 235
Fenton Dual Exhaust and Intake
Dual Carter Webbers 2 barrel Carbs
HEI ignition
Front Disk Brake
T-5 Tranny

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