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Username Post: Over heating
Clarke57
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 50
Clarke57
10-09-19 07:03 PM - Post#2777514    

My 57 Chevy over heats at idle during long lights, heavy traffic or construction stops. I would like to try a smaller diameter pulley on the water pump on my small block 350 crate engine with a short pump. At 30 mph and faster, it runs at a cool 190 degrees. Stopped for any time for construction zones, or heavy traffic you can see the temp. gauge rise to 230 degrees in a few minutes. I have a 4 core radiator, a shroud, and use a 185 degree thermostat. Any ideas on where to purchase a 5 to 6 inch water pump pulley? Thanks for any info. Gary
bobb
Super Senior Member
Posts 5484
10-09-19 08:48 PM - Post#2777520    

what kind of water pump do you have?
70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.

GreatNorthWoods
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 1048
GreatNorthWoods
10-10-19 05:03 AM - Post#2777537    

Four row radiators are harder to get air through than two or three row. Had a similar problem years ago with a 4-row Walker in a 29 Ford. Engine (350) would run 180 all day at speed but would climb to 220 when idling. It took me awhile to get used to seeing 220 on the temp gauge but it didn't seem to hurt the engine any and it never boiled over. Even at 230 if it doesn't boil over you are probably okay. Perhaps a fan with more blades would do the trick. Sometimes it helps to seal up places where air can go around the radiator instead of going through it.
Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Blueprint Engine, 700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 59 Vette Steering Wheel, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Posies Springs, Coker Radials, Nova 10-bolt, Mustang II front, Continental Kit

2blu52
"18th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 19032
2blu52
10-10-19 04:15 PM - Post#2777601    

220 degrees may not be excessive if you are running a proper pressure cap.
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON

Bad56Sedan
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1152
Bad56Sedan
10-10-19 07:42 PM - Post#2777614    

The water pump pulley is about 6.4" with 1/2" v- belt grooves.
I have the same issues, so I was looking at pulleys also.
The only thing I found was a 3 groove water pump pulley that the two inner groves were the 6.4", but the outer groove was much smaller. But more than likely you are in the first crank groove with your water pump belt so it will not work, all I saw out there.
Only other option would be the hi flow water pump some after market places sell, so I bought one, it did not make any difference, increased traffic through the radiator was not even noticeable at idle.
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years


bobb
Super Senior Member
Posts 5484
10-11-19 08:10 AM - Post#2777655    

got pics?
70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.

4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4629
10-29-19 07:34 AM - Post#2779030    

Should we assume you have tuned the carburator's fuel mixture, the distributors initial timing/idle advance/vacuum advance is all good?

Is the crate motor a vortec engine?
It's all good. mostly



YOUNG57
Frequent Contributor
Posts 1157
10-31-19 04:09 AM - Post#2779184    

Is your vacuum advance full intake vacuum or ported carb vacuum?
What is your initial timing advance?
Both effect idle temps.

Standard equipment pulley sizes:
Single groove crankshaft pulleys are 6 3/4” diameter and water pump pulleys are 7” diameter
Under drive, water pump turns slower than crankshaft
Double groove crankshaft pulleys are 7 3/8” diameter and water pump pulleys are 6 3/8” diameter
Over drive, water pump turns faster than crankshaft

Clarke57
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 50
Clarke57
10-31-19 02:15 PM - Post#2779240    

Thanks for your interest and questions. The vacuum advance comes off of the base of my Edlbrock carburator. I have given up on a smaller pulley and I'm going to move rad into 6 cylinder position and buy a 3300 cfm puller fan from Danchuk. Cheers, Gary
Clarke57
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 50
Clarke57
10-31-19 02:18 PM - Post#2779241    

Hello Thanks for your answer. Tried an Edlbrock water pump and a new gm made water pump. Same result on both. Going for a electric puller fan Cheers, Gary
Clarke57
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 50
Clarke57
10-31-19 02:21 PM - Post#2779242    

230 degrees and north is the problem. Given up on smaller pulleys size. Going to 3300 cfm electric puller fan and moving rad to 6 cylinder position. thanks for contacting me. Gary
Clarke57
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 50
Clarke57
10-31-19 02:26 PM - Post#2779243    

Tried a 7 blade corvette fan but did not have a shroud for it. I went back to original 4 blade fan with shroud. That worked a little better. I'm down to buying a 3300 cfm Electric puller fan and moving the rad to the 6 cylinder position. Thanks for your interest. Gary
Bad56Sedan
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1152
Bad56Sedan
11-02-19 11:14 AM - Post#2779378    

I'd try the plug in box fan in front of rad pushing, see if it works,
Made no difference on mine still tried to over heat,
Did compression check, 190-195 psi on all 8 cylinders,
So not a blown head gasket, cracked block or cracked head.....
Then I found it...........
Distributor gear ate up!!
Bronze nickel gear half way gone......


Attachment: image.jpg (156.19 KB) 6 Views

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years


Mel Foye
*VIP* Founding Member
Posts 4917
Mel Foye
11-02-19 03:04 PM - Post#2779393    

Years ago David I was checking out radiator manufactures and their thinking. Several recommended a 15% overdrive on the WP. Your second example comes out to 14.x. Slow moving water encourages higher temps. Hope folks learn from your post. Mel
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
11-07-19 01:28 PM - Post#2779736    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
I'd try the plug in box fan in front of rad pushing, see if it works,
Made no difference on mine still tried to over heat,
Did compression check, 190-195 psi on all 8 cylinders,
So not a blown head gasket, cracked block or cracked head.....
Then I found it...........
Distributor gear ate up!!
Just curious on why the bronze gear? Retro-roller cam or roller cam setup block? That gear is all but gone; concerns about the metal through the engine? I have an old dual point distributor I was planning to use, but it has a bronze gear on kit. HV/HP oil pump or thick oil?
Thanks. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Bronze nickel gear half way gone......





YOUNG57
Frequent Contributor
Posts 1157
11-08-19 06:28 AM - Post#2779770    

Bad56Sedan, I think your house plug-in box fan test is a great idea before going to the trouble and expense of moving the radiator and installing an electric fan.

Mel Foye, thanks for vindication of what seemed obvious to me, but not everyone.

Bad56Sedan
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1152
Bad56Sedan
11-08-19 11:31 AM - Post#2779784    

I really don't know why this distributor had a bronze gear.
Cam is cast iron Comp 292H that does not require a bronze gear.
Yes maybe more issues on the way.
Although oil pressure is back up at about 60PSI at idle and it is not over heating.
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years


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