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Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-03-19 12:19 PM - Post#2772319    

Picked up this '39 Coupe at our big April swap meet. It was dirt cheap because of all the rust in the floors, rockers, lower doors, and body. But I figured it was time to learn how to do this before I'm too old! I had a '40 Chevy coupe in high school in 1968, and always regretted selling it, which also played big in buying the '39.
There was a great number of extra parts inside the car, so I figured I'd sell the extras to also help offset the purchase, and end up almost at zero cost if it went well! So I did an inventory prior to moving it into my tiny one car shop.





This was the '40 Coupe I had in high school. My friend has owned it ever since, and totally restored and street rodded it.



I got some friends to assist in steering it, and used my quad to pull it into the shop. Then we pushed it the final bit by hand.
After that I began really looking over the rust repairs and got that sinking feeling! The car was perfect from 3" up, and the frame was also perfect. But a lot of rust everywhere low! I began ordering parts for the floors, inner and outer doors, 1/4 panels, etc. I sold all the spare parts, or traded them for old parts I was missing like a couple garnish moldings, and a glove box door. Also got store credit from a local place for some fiberglass spares, and used that to buy more sheet metal parts.
I began the daunting task of repairing all the rusted metal. A lot of this I've never done, so I got some advice on how to do it from people I know with lots of experience! I began by removing the rusted rockers, and replacing those. The lower body shook whenever I closed the doors from no rockers!







Fortunately the floor braces behind the rockers were great, which made installing new rockers easier! I bent up a few pieces myself to save money, and made up these little U shaped edges to go over the rocker's sharp edge.





1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-03-19 12:44 PM - Post#2772323    

I went for the 1/4 panels next, as they were less scary than lower doors! I again saved some money by using generic lower door patch panels and simply cutting them to length and patching them in as 1/4 panel drops.





They were a bit flat, but some massaging got the proper curve to fit the body lines.



The floor kit came for the front and rear. Fronts were great, but rear was almost worthless! The box said, "37-38, 39 with some re-shaping". Well by the time I removed enough metal to fit my '39, I could have just made my own from a sheet of 18 ga. steel. The fronts made that job super easy though!



The door drops came, so decided to tackle those. They were very challenging, and for an amateur like me will require some filler! I used All Metal to ensure a good bond, and solid patch.







Suprisingly the front floors weren't as bad as I thought! Both toe boards were good, but the driver's had holes for brake, clutch, steering column, and other stuff, so I replaced it just to start clean!



Passenger side just got the floor.



Both sides will need a small edge piece fitted as the front and rear floors don't cover that much.

I found more good braces under the rear, so plug welded to them, and then tacked the edges where they met solid floor. I overlapped the tiny tunnel since it will get cut out and replaced with a new driveline tunnel I built.



With the floors just tacked at the edge, I overlaid my new driveline tunnel, and marked the old tunnel/floor to cut it back out. Then welded in the new tunnel for the back seat area.



I'll wait to do the front after the engine and trans are in, and I know what it needs for clearance for the 700R4 tranny, and 350 roller motor.

Big pile of rusty metal removed during the process!



Maybe getting a bit ahead of myself. But I got a great deal on these new old style Torq Thrust TTO's, so I got tires and wheels mounted up for the coupe project!



I'll be pulling out the old knee action A arms, and installing a '59 Chevy pickup I beam axle in front. Doing a disc brake conversion on the axle also. The rear will be an 8.8" Ford limited slip posi with a 3.73 gear ratio. Steering will be a Vega box and a late 70's Blazer tilt column.

I picked up three grille halves. All had issues, but fixable. I cut bars from the extra half and tig welded them into the lower missing bars of the two salvageable grilles. They'll get painted, and then original trim used down the middle, and around the edges.












So this is where I am after a couple months of dinking around here and there. I hope to possibly be driving the '39 next summer, and maybe painting next winter. But that's just a dream right now!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
08-03-19 07:53 PM - Post#2772352    

Good job.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

Tony
Founder & Grand PoohBah
Posts 18647
Tony
08-04-19 07:09 AM - Post#2772375    

Thanks so much for posting. Please keep the updates coming when you can.
Happy with the help and support you got here?
Click >>here<< to become a Supporting Member or Donate






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-04-19 05:31 PM - Post#2772418    

Thanks guys! I'll try to post as I go. I'm retired, but busy building a '35 Plymouth coupe for a friend at his house, so I only get a couple days a week to work on mine. Of course other days get sidetracked doing work around the house.

Appreciate the feedback.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

jrt301
Poster
Posts 8
08-05-19 02:37 AM - Post#2772435    

Can't wait to see the next update.
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-05-19 03:53 PM - Post#2772476    

Spent some time looking over the tail panel and tool drop below the trunk lid today. It's a bigger mess than I thought, and I decided it might be worthwhile to buy a replacement instead. I checked a couple places and found them for around $325 and up. Then by chance I checked the local CL ads and found a new old stock EMS panel for $200 brand new!
Can't believe the luck, and it will save me a lot of time, plus look better than whatever I scabbed together.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-07-19 12:14 PM - Post#2772636    

Not sure what I was thinking, (or hoping) when I thought this tail panel might be salvageable? But it's obvious I was high on something when I thought it could be!







Got it cut out rough, so still more metal to remove once I get the fenders off and fit the new panel to it. Some rust in the trunk drop, but it should be pretty easy to replace once the new tail panel is in and I know how much is missing between the two panels.





Have to decide if I cut the notches for a bumper bracket, or leave the tail smooth. Since it's a hotrod, I may not run a rear bumper. I can do those later if I do.

The new panel goes up to those black felt marker lines, and I cut about 3" below to give me room for final trimming and welding. I'll have to brace the lip on the trunk lid opening while I'm fitting the new tail panel. It's allowing the trunk lid to sag now, and it sits lower than the adjacent fenders and surrounding edge. So I'll tack in some braces to hold it, and then fit the new tail panel.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-09-19 12:18 PM - Post#2772823    

I got the metal cut back today, and the new tail pan installed. It wasn't as far off as I thought once I got everything opened up, and got it clamped in place. I lowered the trunk lid and it fit fine into the tail pan. So I tacked it in and checked the fit again, and all was good. Got it welded in and tried the trunk lid once more, and it's good to go!
I spot welded the edge along the weatherstrip rail, and did a continuous weld along the junction with the trunk drops on each side.






Smoothed them out with a flapper disc, and looks like I might need a couple more tacks where it appears I missed the edge. Then they're ready for a dab of filler.





Still need to build the bottom of the tool drop, and tack it in, but it wont take much. I actually think I can see the end of rust repair soon! Maybe even in a couple more days!

The machine shop called and said my heads will be ready to pick up Sat. afternoon, or Monday!!!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-10-19 02:12 PM - Post#2772898    

Got out again today and installed a new "floor" in my trunk tool drop. I made it different than the original, so it's shallower. The metal was a bit rotted, so I figured why waste time and metal building it all back the same way, when I could simply cut the sides shorter to get to solid metal, and weld in a new bottom.
I cut a piece of cardboard to fit in the bottom, and then traced it on my 18 ga. sheet metal. Cut it out and dropped it in the bottom, and it fit first time! Tacked it in place, and ground it smooth from the bottom side where I could get to it. Began knocking the tops off my spot welds for the floors with the old flapper discs. I'll leave them as is until I get the engine set, and know what they need to complete them. Then I'll seam seal it all inside and out when it's done.
Spread a little All Metal filler on the new tail pan, and the bottom of the tool drop. Too pooped for pictures, so I'll get out tomorrow to continue work, and take some then.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-11-19 12:37 PM - Post#2772971    

More again today, but took the camera with me!
Here's the freshly sanded, but unfinished tail panel. Still needs a light coat of filler to be really done.





And the new tool drop that came out better than I hoped! Might hold a couple wrenches.



And the freshly ground floors.



I cut off the brackets for the Z bar, and the brake master. Then after that I decided I'd begin unbolting the front suspension assembly. Chevy really wanted that front suspension to stay put in the car! They used 26 bolts to hold it to the frame rails! I removed 22 of them, but need to weld in a new tubular crossmember in front before I take any more out. Nothing else keeps the rails aligned, so it needs a tube across to keep the rails parallel.



I realized when looking at the frame rails, and the way Chevy bolted in the front suspension, that I should use the same method! I can make up my spring hangers for the front and rear of the straight axle, and then drill the mounting plates to make them bolt onto the frame rails! This way I wont need to do any overhead welding, and I can come up with some really nice mounts that I will just drill the frame edges and bolt in place! Sure will save me a lot of painful overhead welding! And I can do the same for the transmission crossmember too!

One thing really amazed me! Considering all the body rust, this frame looks like new!! It appears that it might even be from another car since it's so perfect! I removed all those bolts, and not a single broken or rusted bolt! I also broke loose all the brake lines, and they look fantastic! And even the rubber in the brake hoses, and swaybar were in great shape!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-12-19 12:52 PM - Post#2773052    

Errand day today. Went to the steel yard and bought a 20' stick of 2"x2" box tubing for crossmembers, motor mounts, transmission mount, and whatever else I need it for.
Then my neighbor called from out at the Pick N Pull and told me they got a truck in with a canopy on it. I've been looking for hardware for my trunk lid to make a latch, and old canopies have spring loaded latches on them. So I ran over and pulled the latch and handle off the canopy.
While I was there I also removed the sealed beam headlamp buckets as I need them to convert mine to sealed beams. I grabbed the trim rings, and even the connectors for the lamps just in case I need it all.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-14-19 10:14 AM - Post#2773220    

Just picked them up from the machine shop! Boy I sure love new parts!



These 487x heads will be going on my 355 SBC roller motor. Using a Howards cam with 525/530 lift, 280/288 duration, 109 LSA. The 355 is 9.25:1 compression with these 76cc heads so it wont have any issues running on pump gas.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-17-19 05:22 PM - Post#2773429    

Weather is cloudy and cool, so stayed home from any car shows and worked on the '39. I decided it might be time to check out my engine, and see if it was as advertised by the seller. I pulled a couple rod caps to inspect the bearings, and plastigauge them. They were as advertised, and brand new bearings. No issues with crank, and plastigauge showed it's all done correctly. Did the same with a couple mains also. Didn't see any reason to do all of them, unless I found something suspicious.
Put it all back together, and torqued them down to spec. Once done, I put it on my engine stand so I can pull the balancer and timing cover to install the Howards cam, and gear drive. I hope my old chrome cover from my 327 fits the 350, but if not I'll just paint the cover.
Need to order a new oil pump as I have no idea what this oil pump is, or how old? It doesn't appear to be new, and may be fine, but I wont chance it. Have to check the pickup to see if it will be correct for my finned aluminum oil pan too. Not sure if the factory windage tray on the mains will clear my pan either. If not, I'll trim it until it clears as I like having it there.

I also stripped all the brakes and tie rod off the straight axle. Going to lay out the holes I want to drill, and get them done. Then I'll clean it up and put new paint on it. Also want to go to Oregon Spring and have new U bolts made. Don't want to start out with the old rusty used ones. Hopefully I"ll get the holes and the clean up done tomorrow so I can begin mocking up the axle.
I realized today I somehow measured way off on spring width, vs. frame width? Not sure how I did it, but I did. The frame is quite a bit narrower than the spring perches on the donor axle. So I will need to make up spring mounts that situate the springs outside the frame rails after all. Not a big deal, but more work to do to get the mounts built. I wont be bolting them to the frame rails after all. With the outside mounting points it wont save me anything, so I'll build the mounts and weld them on the frame rails.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Rustchips
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 1184
Rustchips
08-18-19 08:54 AM - Post#2773482    

Nice work.
Cleon
1928 Chevy Coupe
1942 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe
1955 Chevy Bel Air HTP
1970 El Camino
1990 F##d Mustang Convertible

Life is like a roll of toilet paper the nearer the end the faster it goes.

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-18-19 07:54 PM - Post#2773525    

Thanks! Had a little setback today!

The engine is far from ready. Needs the cam and gear drive installed. Just test fitting the aluminum pan. Going to leave it there, and upside down until I get the heads and cam done.



I laid out the holes and drilled the axle today. Then I opened up the disc brake kit from Speedway to install it. That's when I realized I somehow entered the wrong numbers and got a kit for a '49-'54 Chevy car! Crap! Have to call Speedway tomorrow and arrange to exchange this kit for the correct Chevy truck disc brake kit. I hate when I do stuff like this!!!!




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-21-19 11:43 AM - Post#2773767    

Speedway told me no problem returning the disc brake kit, even though it's been over 60 days, so sent it back. They're sending the correct '47-'59 Chevy truck kit once they get the seals in that they're waiting for.

Made a short work day of it today. I got a deal on some 4 ft. LED two tube shop lights to replace my fluorescents, so spent a couple hours changing those out to give me more work light. Boy do they ever make a huge improvement! And no issues with cold weather flickering, or replacing lamps in my lifetime! Supposed to be a 40 year lifespan on the LED's.

After that I disassembled the timing cover, and removed the roller lifters. Then dropped the Howards roller camshaft in, and reassembled it. Their instructions say the roller cam needs no assembly lube, but I put it on anyway. Just seems like a good idea to me. Especially if it might not be started for quite awhile.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-22-19 06:13 PM - Post#2773840    

I'm building this one for my neighbor one day a week. It's a '35 Plymouth coupe, with 383 SBC engine, 4 speed, and 8.8 Ford rear axle. 4.56 gear and posi. Four wheel disc brakes. 12" Firestone pie crust slicks, and a dropped chrome tube axle. Coil over shocks all around. Front tires are just rollers, and will be replaced by skinny Cragars, and skinny tires.
We just got the body back on the chassis after doing all the frame, suspension, and drivetrain. It will be getting rear fenders, but the rest will stay open.



This coupe was hit hard in the rear, and we've replaced and pulled a lot of metal. It's still going to need 1/8" to 1/4" of filler to make the rear look perfect. Just too rough to ever get it 100% with our bodyworking skills.



The rest the week is dedicated to my build.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-28-19 12:07 PM - Post#2774313    

Heads on, and engine painted. Can't believe my oil pump hasn't arrived? Just as well since every parts store I stopped at today told me they had no 350 SBC pan gasket sets! Can't believe they have to special order a pan gasket!!!





Will wait to do the rockers, and other pieces until after I have the motor mounts done. It will likely be in and out a couple times before it stays in.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-01-19 03:21 PM - Post#2774634    

I've stared at the first door (passenger side) that I replaced the lower panel on for weeks now, and it just looked bad. I got warps in the metal, and it just didn't lay down properly. So today I had enough of it, and cut it loose, and removed the new patch panel. As soon as I cut the patch panel loose I saw the door skin relax, and go back in place!
I ended up with a new lower patch panel for the pass. side when I sold the extra parts for the car, so I dug it out and compared it to my door. Of course like most new sheet metal today, it was too long for my door by about 3/8"! So I had to choose an end to cut off, and then hammer on a new edge lip to roll over the door inner frame. I cut off the excess, and then laid the edge over my anvil and with a dolly and body hammer I peened the edge over to create a new rolled edge. Then I fit it to the door and began rolling the edges and bottom around the inner door panel. It went on pretty easy, and once it was fitted I began the welding.
I couldn't clamp the two pieces together, so I used my butt welding clamps on the edge seam to keep it all lined up. Did the back and forth tack welds, and it stayed in place nicely. The big difference was this time I kept a bucket of cool water on hand, and a rag to cool the metal as I tacked. Once I had tacks every couple inches, it was holding well and didn't need cooling as often.
I spent about 5 hours on the door, but some of that was removal, and some was finish grinding, and a thin coat of All Metal filler when I was done. This 2nd time was much better, and I got no warping at all! So although I thought I was done with metal repair before; not I really am done! This has been a real learning experience, and wasn't an expensive redo, just time consuming. But now I know it's correct, and doesn't look ugly as it did before redoing it.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-02-19 12:32 PM - Post#2774676    

Not a bunch done today. Had to catch up on yard work, but then I figured I'd spend a few hours on the '39.
I decided to fill all the empty holes that were supposed to have body bolts! Out of 12 holes, only 3 had bolts in them. Another reason I think this body was off the frame, or swapped frames. I got 8 of the other 9 holes filled, but one has a broken bolt in it. Not too worried about replacing it since it's right by the driver's side floor and the other side the cowl has two bolts side by side. I doubt it's going anywhere.
The bolts are 3/8"x6" long, and go clear through the floor and frame in a sleeve, except the front two on each side of the cowl.They're shorties. I have lots of 3/8" all thread rod, so cut up a bunch and used that to bolt the body down. Red Loctite on all the nuts, as I doubt I'll ever be removing them, and if I do I can put some heat on the nut to release the red Loctite.
After that I hit some high spots with the grinder, and slapped on some filler. Just rough filled, not finished. Sprayed some primer inside the doors to help protect all the bare metal that's new in there.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Mel Foye
*VIP* Original Founding Member Group
Posts 5213
Mel Foye
09-02-19 05:00 PM - Post#2774700    

Read this from start and enjoyed each and all of your victories on this car. Easy to see your skills.
Keep us up to date. Mel
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-02-19 05:49 PM - Post#2774706    

Thanks Mel! I'm learning some of this for the first time on this build! I've done minor rust repair before, but never anything as extensive as this car.
I'm closer and closer to the drivetrain and suspension, which is something I'm much more comfortable with!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-03-19 01:20 PM - Post#2774756    

Pulled the fuel pump block off plate today and checked it to see if it was bored and machined for a mechanical fuel pump. It is ready for a mechanical pump! And I contacted Howards Cams since I forgot to look at the camshaft before installing it to see if it had a lobe for the fuel pump, and they said it does!
So I ordered a fuel pump, plate, and push rod to go mechanical fuel pump!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-06-19 01:53 PM - Post#2774951    

My neighbor with the '35 Plymouth called to tell me he was putting some scrap metal out to be picked up, and I might want to look at it before it's gone. So I walked over and took a peek, just in case something might be worth saving for my '39.
Sitting on top of his pile were a pair of trunk lid struts with brackets. I asked what they came off, and he told me his brother's 1995 Z28 Camaro hatch. So I figured since they seemed new, they might work to hold my fiberglass trunk lid open! Grabbed them and took them home to my shop.
I test fitted them sort of by holding them up to the location of the original trunk lid supports, and seemed like they were pretty close to what I needed. The one end used a 7/16" NC pivot ball stud, and the other used a mounting plate. So I drilled out the top 5/16" hole on my '39 and tapped it to 7/16" thread. Then propped the trunk lid open and measured about 26.5" from the top edge, down to where it should mount. Drilled and tapped two holes per side, plus two smaller holes for the alignment pins. Bolted it on and closed the trunk lid!
It works perfectly, and no more lifting the trunk lid, or holding it back as I lower it either. The struts do all the work, and make it an easy operation both directions! Love free stuff that works out!







Ran into yet another stumbling block with the late model SBC engine! I am really clueless about these post 1986 engines, so didn't realize the seller had left the one piece rear main seal housing off the engine! My new pan came today, and I ran out to the shop to test fit it. Set it on the block and the last holes in the rear had no place to bolt too!!! I drilled for my handle now also, so I have a way to lift the trunk lid. Ground out two small cracks on the edge of the fiberglass trunk lid, and smeared some Duraglass into the opened up areas too. So it's ready to finish once I get the inside of the trunk latch setup built, and installed later.
I began looking at the back, and realized something was missing. Went in to my computer and searched for "rear main seal housing SBC" and up pops images of a bolt on housing for the rear of the engine. So back to the internet and found one on Ebay for $10 and ordered it. Nickels and dimes, but the irritating part is waiting again to get it assembled. Guess I'll know these later SBC engines by the time I'm finished!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-08-19 12:40 PM - Post#2775053    

Installed the oil pump and pickup today. Checked the height, and then tossed a tack on it to hold it.



Painted the axle and calipers with Hammerite dark silver. Almost a bare metal color, and I like it. Then assembled the disc brakes and checked the clearances with the wheels.







A good solid inch clearance from the closest point from caliper to rim.

Cut piece of 2" box tubing and tacked it across the top of the frame rails to hold everything once I pull the crossmember out.




I'll replace this temporary crossmember with a permanent one once I know where it can go without interfering with anything.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-09-19 03:16 PM - Post#2775178    

Long day today, as I was under the cowl looking at mounting points when I spotted still more rust I'd missed! It isn't visible, structural, or really a problem. But it was rusted metal, and needed to be addressed. And it was on both sides, once I saw one and looked at the other.
The toe boards angle back, but the cowl goes straight down to the frame. The bottom of both cowls were rotted, and I had to cut them out and weld in new metal today. About 3 hours per side, but they're done. Hopefully the last of the rust, as I inspected the underside end to end and didn't see anything else.
So maybe I can get back on drivetrain now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-11-19 10:54 AM - Post#2775345    

Bit the bullet and whacked the axle in half. Then took a 4" piece off the top of one half, and another 4" piece off the bottom of the other half. Overlapped the two joints and ground all the edges to a knife edge for deep penetration. Clamped a piece of 1.5" tubing in the side of the beam, and another piece of 2" box across the spring perches. That lined both sides and top up perfectly until I could put as many tacks on as possible.





After the tacking, I pulled just the box tube off and welded up top and bottom joints on the outside. Then I pulled the round tube and welded inside the web everywhere else. I could see as I flipped the axle over that the welds penetrated from the other side, so that ensured I got good welds.

On the bottom side I left the weld slightly high, since nobody can see that area. Could have left it even higher, but it wont increase strength.



Inside the web I got the die grinder out and ground the welds even on the front side, but left the back slightly high also, since it wont be seen either.



Gave it all another coat of paint, and reinstalled the springs.





My frame measures 29" wide at the rear mounting point, and 28" wide at the front. Another 3/4" lip added to the full edge also. My spring spacing is 28" at the rear, and 27" front, so it sits under the frame rails perfectly now. It also is 67" OA width to the sidewalls of the tires. So with my 70" fender OA width, the tires will sit in 1.5" inside! Exactly where I wanted everything to sit.
This will really make installing the front axle a bunch easier, and not require any spring mounts to be built outside the frame rails either! Gotta make a trip to the steel yard and pick up material to build all the mounts now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-13-19 11:37 AM - Post#2775466    

Unbolted the last 4 bolts on the front crossmember, and pulled it out from under the car this morning. Then loaded it into my SUburban, along with the radiator support, grille divider, steering column, tires and wheels, and the brake parts off the Chevy pickup axle. Took them over to Joe at Old Car Parts and he gave me $250 store credit! So while I was there I got the window channels for both doors, the whiskers for garnish molding, driver's side turn signal housing, and the weatherstripping for the windshield. I took the remaining credit for later, as I'm sure I'll need other bits.
Then swung by the steel yard and got some box tubing for the front spring mounts. 2" for the front spring eyes to fit inside of, and 1.5" for the rear to attach the shackles to. I needed the 1.25" x .125" DOM round tube to build my tie rod and drag link also, so got a 20' stick of that too. Was going to get a 10' stick, but another 10' was only $15 more, so silly to buy 10' for $50 when 20' is $65.

Mocked up the straight axle under the frame, just to see what the difference would be front to back to get 7 degrees of kingpin angle, and it came out as 4.5" at the rear. So with 3" shackle centers I just need a 1.5" drop off the frame. Front will only need 1" drop, so it will allow my mounts to stay pretty close to the frame.



I realized I had installed one spring backwards to the other, but figured they were the same. They weren't. Same distance to the eyes, but one short leaf is longer on one end, so reversed it to correct before I got too far along.



Threw on a pair of old Ford pattern rollers, but the center is too small, and only able to get about 4 threads before I ran out. My Torq Thrust fit fine, as they have larger centers to fit.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
09-16-19 02:09 PM - Post#2775660    

Swap meet parts reworked to use for my front shackles. Whenever I see these big old honkin rear shackles at a swap meet for a buck or two I buy them. I cut the bottom three holes off and they will be the shorter shackles for my front springs.



Made up some plates and mounts for the fixed end of the spring eye from flat plate.



Rear mount for the shackles is 1.5" heavy wall box that will get welded to another plate, and gussets added to the rear edge for more support. I'll tack it all to the plate, and together. Then I'll pull it off and do the final welding off the car. Made the plates large enough to hang outside the frame slightly, so I wont need to do much overhead welding.



Tomorrow I need to get back into electrician mode and wire a dedicated circuit out to the shop. I've been lazy and just using the outside plugs on the back of the house. But the outside plug shares a breaker with other things and I keep tripping it with my welder. So I'll go buy some pipe, wire, and a breaker, and install a dedicated circuit to feed the shop outlets. It's a pain to stop and got into the house to reset a breaker when I'm in the middle of a weld project and running higher amps. It never trips on lower settings, so didn't have an issue with the body panels.
But I hate having to buy parts I used to get for free when I was working!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-17-19 02:29 PM - Post#2775744    

Got a new heavier circuit run out to the shop today, so I can weld with my Mig turned up full and not have tripping breakers constantly! Ran it with oversized wire, and a new route to reduce the length of the run, and also reduce voltage loss from resistance. So it should be good to go, and not have any issues now.
Will get back on fabricating mounts tomorrow, and test out the new feed to the shop.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
09-18-19 11:04 AM - Post#2775815    

Tack welded the mounts to the base plates, and then removed them from the car to weld them right side up. Cleaned up the shackles and bolted it all together again. Then tacked all four base plates to the frame with a single tack on each corner. Nothing permanent in case I need to adjust once the rear axle is done, and engine weight is on the suspension. Then if it's all still good I can permanently weld it up.
But it's sitting on the tires now, and ready for me to move to the rear suspension. Having a heck of a time figuring out how the rear shackles come apart? They have a single bolt in the middle hole, but when I removed it nothing seems to want to come apart. I pried and beat on the shackles, but they seem to be pressed on the top and bottom shafts. Those shafts are hollow and have zerk fittings. Removed the fittings, but no joy. Have to do some internet searching and then go caveman on them if I can't figure out how to gently remove them.
Anybody ever taken this old style of rear shackle off, and can give me a hint on how they come apart??



Also got the permanent front crossmember tacked in. Made it from some round tube I had leftover from the '63 Falcon build. Looks better than box tubing up front.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-18-19 04:19 PM - Post#2775838    

Thanks to a Google search I found an online copy of the 1939 Chevy shop manual! It shows the rear shackles are tapered pins on each end, and they simply hold the shackle with the taper, and that single center bolt.
I'll make up a piece of running thread with a nut on each end so I can put it between the shackles to push them apart. Then with tension on them I should be able to give them a good strike with the hammer and pop them free.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1939/39c...

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-19-19 03:17 PM - Post#2775911    

Went over to my neighbor Mike's today to pull the body off one more time on his '35. It will be off for some time to do bodywork and seal it. 
 After an short day I came home to find about 5 packages sitting at my door. So I grabbed them and headed to the shop. The 5/8"-LH heim joints were in the packages so I made up my tie rod! 1.25" OD tube to eliminate any flex or death wobble.


 
Then I moved to the rear of the car and pulled the 9" Ford rear axle so I can begin reworking leaf springs and install the 8.8" Ford axle.

Figured out how to get those pesky shackles apart on the rear too! I cut a 4" piece of 3/8" all thread rod and using a couple nuts and washers between the shackles, I began spreading pressure off the center hole in the shackles. Didn't take much to push the shackles apart and free them from the tapered pins!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-21-19 02:24 PM - Post#2776072    

Sold the '70 Mustang 9" rear axle today. Put it on Craigslist, and it took a little over an hour to go away!!!
While I was waiting for the guy to come pick up the old axle, I cut the perches off the 8.8" Ford, and disassembled the spring packs. They had 8 leafs in the packs, which is why it sat up like a 4x4 in the rear! I removed 5 of them, and I'll see how it sits once I have the new axle in and weight on it. Then add springs if it needs more to sit right.
I relocated the spring center pin 2" back, so the wheels will be better centered inside the opening when I radius them.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-24-19 12:41 PM - Post#2776363    

I forgot how big and heavy that 8.8" is! Supposed to be lighter than a 9", but not sure how they weighed it? Sure feels way heavier to my back! Got the 8.8" under the car and just U bolted in, so I could see how the springs worked after removing 5 leafs. Didn't hardly notice much drop in the rear. It is softer and much easier to compress the springs, but only a couple inches lower. I will probably pull it apart once more and take all bu the main leaf out, and then add in 2-3 flat leafs from the truck front axle to see if that makes it settle more. It's sitting dead level now, but I want to remove a leaf or two up front to soften the ride, and it will sit too downhill then.
Gave away my rollers to the guy who bought the 9", so dug out my old wrinkle wall slicks and bolted them on the back to see how it all cleared, and how it sat. They are just over an inch taller, so that will bring the rear down with the real tires on it.
Checked the openings on the rear fender, and they wont need much removed when I radius them! The move 2" back centered the wheels perfectly, and maybe 1" off front and rear, and whatever off the top to get clearance for travel.







1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-25-19 11:06 AM - Post#2776427    

The two spring shops we have around here said they no longer re-arc springs due to liability reasons. They said if they changed an old spring and it later broke they could be sued. I said they could be sued if a new spring they made broke also, but of course they said they trust their new material, and their workers. I understand actually, but sad it got to this.
My springs needed to be flatter, so less arc, not more. Today I dug the '58 Chevy truck front spring packs out of the scrap pile, and tore them apart. I chose 3 full leafs, and one shorty (just for thickness) and cut them up and buffed them clean. Then I removed all but the main leaf from the last 3 springs in my '39, and using a 5/16" centering bolt and C clamps, I stacked the springs together, and installed a nut on the bolt.
I reassembled the spring plate and U bolts, and it sits slightly lower. But the best part is it's not mushy like it was before, so I think I can live with this and make it work. If anything needs more, I'll add a 1" or 2" lowering block as I've still got enough extra length on the U bolts to get 1"-1.5" blocks in. Probably need new U bolts to get 2" in though.



Then I decided to see how close the fender opening is with the 2" relocation, and new springs. It's extremely close, and looks like it will only need a small "haircut" to be perfect. The front edge is tight against the tires, and I can't quite get the fenders fully bolted up yet. I measured these slicks to compare to the ones I'll be running, and they're extremely close in diameter. I'll wait until I get closer to trimming, and put the real slicks on for that part.

[img]h]ttps://i.imgur.com/Cj8V8lQl.jpg[/img]


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-26-19 01:47 PM - Post#2776527    

Made a parts run today for nuts and bolts. Man those grade 8 hardware pieces are getting crazy priced! A handful of bolts, nuts, washers, and locking nuts was $35!!!

Came home and replaced the temporary bolts in the frontend, and then decided to swap rear tires so I could see where I'm really at with the fenders. Removed the slicks and bolted up the fenders with all the hardware. Then I put the pie crust slicks and wheels on to see how they fit. As I suspected the tires sit inside the fenders more than I thought they would. So have to think on it awhile before I do anything. They don't look bad inside, but I had my mind set on about 3/4" outside, so not sure if I'll space them out, or leave them in?
The fenders of course have been reworked, and repaired previously, and now I know how much! One side is pretty centered on the tire, and the other is tight at the front, and big at the back. Also one opening is also larger front to back by 1". All this needs to be addressed regardless of how I go on the wheels and tires.

Right rear.






Front edge of the right side almost touching.



Rear edge. This is the side that's 1" larger.



Left side, rear edge:



Left side front edge:



Whoever worked on the fenders made a very large 1" rolled edge around the openings. I need to look at an original fender to see if they have anything even slightly similar? I may cut the entire rolled edge off, and then weld on a much smaller 1/4" edge bead.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-28-19 07:27 PM - Post#2776662    

I spent about 4 hours on the car today and really got nothing done that shows much. The center bar for the windshield had all the screws for inner/outer trim rusted solid. So I cut them all off and tapped out 3 of the holes. Two others broke off and couldn't be saved, so I ground the metal and made 8-32 nut plates and welded them to the bar.
 Then I began rough sanding the joints on the patch panels and my angle grinder started cutting out. So tore that apart and shortened up the cord to get rid of broken wires to get it working again. Have 3 of these grinders, and need all three going with different discs sometimes!
 After that I did a little welding on the tubular crossmember up front to make it permanent. Then called it a day since I wasn't getting much done. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. Going to assemble the lower end of the engine and install rockers and pushrods.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-30-19 02:36 PM - Post#2776787    

Back on track today after taking the day off on Sunday. I had one of those "duh" moments last night and realized I was overlooking an easy fix for lowering the rear of the coupe! Didn't really want lowering blocks, but I could make lowering blocks that were sort of part of the spring perches! So I dug out a old pair of cut up traction bars and used 4" long pieces off it to make lowering blocks.



I had an extra 1.5" on the U bolts and the rectangle stock is 1" so I drilled holes for the center pins on the springs and removed my perches to tack weld these pieces to the perches. Did one side at a time to make it easier, and keep things lined up where I had them. Did exactly as I hoped, and the car sits slightly lower in back than the front.

After that I got the rear main seal installed, and the new chrome pan. Then installed the pushrods and rockers, and semi adjusted them to keep them in place. Put the mechanical fuel pump on it and set the valve covers and intake on to keep the dirt out. Covered with a old towel, and set it in the corner for now.



These were the $25 painted valve covers I found at a swap meet. Stripped the paint and put them on my buffer to get them shined up a bit. Still need a final polish, but I like them. I'm going to have a local trophy shop make up a couple plates to fit into the rectangle where they once had "Mr Gasket" emblems. They were gone when I bought them, so have to think of something to put on the engraved plates?





Seam sealed the under side of the patch panels too, since it got into the low 60's and figured it would set up finally.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-01-19 12:54 PM - Post#2776861    

Made a run to Pick N Pull today to look at pedal assemblies for a hanging pedal. I tried to pull an S10 and gave up. Too hard to get to all the bolts, which made me decide it wouldn't work well anyway. Then looked at a '65 Chevy truck, but way too big!
Finally went back to a Subaru, since I used a Legacy pedal assembly and master on my Austin. I found a 1998 Impreza there, and 4 bolts and a pin off and it was out of there! These are one of the nicest hanging pedals around that's not custom made. Clean, simple, and has a brake switch built into it. Not too deep, so it works with older dashboards that aren't deep like my '39. And the best buy around at only $15!
I'll mate it to a 2nd Gen Camaro disc/drum dual manual master, and make up a plate for the inside of the firewall to brace the pedal, and bolt the master to. Should be an easy installation on the '39, I hope!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-03-19 01:36 PM - Post#2777009    

Had to run to Home Depot this morning to get a couple new hasps for the shop side door. So picked up a gallon of gloss black Rust-oleum paint and painted up the floor.





It will make a good base for the sound deadener whenever I get to that point.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-05-19 06:12 PM - Post#2777161    

Really big day today!!!



Bolted the engine and trans together, and put the SS fenderwell headers on the engine, and lowered it into the chassis!



Got some measurements and used the 2" box tubing to fabricate motor mounts. Cut it down at a 45 degree where I welded it to the steel sleeve that bolts to the motor mount, and then tacked it good to the frame. Need to pull the headers to finish welding the motor mounts in.







I was going to just block up the tranny since I had no rubber mount, but ran to the chain store and they actually had a mount! So I built the trans mount too, but didn't get it drilled and bolted to the frame rails. Just too pooped to go further today.



Had to cut the bottom of the center tube open as the mount had a stud and needed access to get to it for a nut and washer.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-06-19 04:19 PM - Post#2777204    

Got a late start on the '39 today, but wanted to at least get the steering box sorted out. It seems I got in my own way when I welded in the round crossmember at the end of the frame rails. I planned to go front side steer, and needed that area to mount the Vega box in. So had to tack in a temp piece on top of the frame, and then cut out the round tubular piece. Welded in the mount for the Vega box, and then welded in another new tubular crossmember a couple inches further back.
Then I made up a drag link from the 1.25" DOM tubing, and hooked it up to the Vega box temporarily with some 1/2" bolts. Need to go buy some more spendy 5/8" NF Grade 8 bolts for the drag link, and the steering box mounting bolts.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-08-19 12:58 PM - Post#2777394    

Installed the nuts and bolts for the drag link to complete the front steering.



Then using some tubing to simulate where the double D shaft's path would be, I determined where to punch the firewall for the steering column. Before punching a hole I put a seat in on the driver's side and blocked it up where it would sit level. Then used another piece of tube to determine steering column location, and angle to make sure the previous hole was correct.
Punched the hole and dropped the steering column through it, and tied it up with wire. Looks like it needs about a 2"-3" drop below the dash. Since it's a tilt column and I had it straight, I'll go for 2" and I can tilt it down if needed.





The way the seat lined up, one mounting hole was right over a body bolt. So I removed that bolt and cut another longer to allow the seat to share the same bolt, and be bolted with separate nuts above the body nut. Two of the other three tabs were fine, but needed slight bending to be parallel to the floor. The 3rd had a vertical tab, so I cut it off and welded on a horizontal tab to match the other three.
Climbed in and checked the position, and it was great. So ready to make up the drop for the column, and the double D shaft and joints when those parts arrive. In the meantime I need to rebuild the steering column upper bushing. Didn't notice it before, but there's a ton of slop at the upper column, and with the wheel on it's really exaggerated!

I also looked at how to mate the Impreza brake pedal to the Corvette master cylinder. I made a template from cardboard and drilled holes for the brake pedal mounting points. Then cut out the center hole, and drilled holes through the cardboard, and the pedal assembly for the master cylinder bolts. Bolted it all together to check fit, and I'll use it to build a 3/16" thick plate to be sandwiched between the master and pedal on the firewall. I'll tack weld the bolts to the plate after drilling and tapping the holes so I can use one wrench to tighten everything up.
The plate will be larger than the cardboard pattern to eliminate any chance of firewall flexing.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-08-19 12:58 PM - Post#2777395    

Installed the nuts and bolts for the drag link to complete the front steering.



Then using some tubing to simulate where the double D shaft's path would be, I determined where to punch the firewall for the steering column. Before punching a hole I put a seat in on the driver's side and blocked it up where it would sit level. Then used another piece of tube to determine steering column location, and angle to make sure the previous hole was correct.
Punched the hole and dropped the steering column through it, and tied it up with wire. Looks like it needs about a 2"-3" drop below the dash. Since it's a tilt column and I had it straight, I'll go for 2" and I can tilt it down if needed.





The way the seat lined up, one mounting hole was right over a body bolt. So I removed that bolt and cut another longer to allow the seat to share the same bolt, and be bolted with separate nuts above the body nut. Two of the other three tabs were fine, but needed slight bending to be parallel to the floor. The 3rd had a vertical tab, so I cut it off and welded on a horizontal tab to match the other three.
Climbed in and checked the position, and it was great. So ready to make up the drop for the column, and the double D shaft and joints when those parts arrive. In the meantime I need to rebuild the steering column upper bushing. Didn't notice it before, but there's a ton of slop at the upper column, and with the wheel on it's really exaggerated!

I also looked at how to mate the Impreza brake pedal to the Corvette master cylinder. I made a template from cardboard and drilled holes for the brake pedal mounting points. Then cut out the center hole, and drilled holes through the cardboard, and the pedal assembly for the master cylinder bolts. Bolted it all together to check fit, and I'll use it to build a 3/16" thick plate to be sandwiched between the master and pedal on the firewall. I'll tack weld the bolts to the plate after drilling and tapping the holes so I can use one wrench to tighten everything up.
The plate will be larger than the cardboard pattern to eliminate any chance of firewall flexing.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-10-19 08:29 AM - Post#2777556    

The tilt column I have was messed up. Missing the lock plate for the top, plus the spring, and other internal parts. And when I began looking for the missing parts the total cost came up too high to make the column worth saving. I made another trip to the salvage yard and for $46 just pulled another one. Got lucky and found one from a Chevy truck that was a manual floor shift, so no shifter base on the column. So a nice clean black column to start with.
It had a angled floor plate that was the opposite angle I need, so cut that off and will use the separate bolt in floor plate my other column came with.
Hung the horn ring on, just to get a look at it. Can't figure out where I stashed the '52 Pontiac horn button right now? Someplace safe I'm sure! This old Pontiac wheel is very large, and should make manual steering a breeze with the extra diameter to help with turning! Plus I think it looks cool, and it was inside the car when I bought it, so free!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-11-19 03:08 PM - Post#2777686    

Got the column drop built, and installed. Just 2"x 2" box tubing that will get covered later to hide all the ugly bolts and plugs on the steering column.



Also got the bolt on covers for the trans tunnel bent up and installed. Just the slightest curve to get clearance to the 700R4 trans.



And the master cylinder and Impreza brake pedal assembly done. The plate turned out to be stainless steel! Was a real booger to hole saw the center hole for the operating rod. The 6 other holes I drilled and tapped to make it stay on the firewall if I pull the pedal assembly, or the master any time.
Still need to figure out where to run the top braces for the bake pedal to? It's a long way to the dash, so I might have to make up a support under the dash to attach the top of the pedal assembly to. It's very solid, so wont need a huge amount of support. Might come off the firewall with an angle support up higher.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-12-19 04:00 PM - Post#2777745    

Decided to play with my trunk latch and the struts today I used body panel adhesive on the nutserts and installed them into the glass trunk lid to make that end of the strut mount more secure. Then moved on to the latch I removed from a canopy at the wrecking yard. I made up three plates, two for the catches, and one for the handle operator. Welded the catches to the plate with a tack and checked operation. It needed another 1/4" out so I cut it loose and tacked it further towards the edge. Mounted up both catches, and then pop riveted the operator to the center plate. Shortened the operating rods and redrilled the holes. Still need to drill for a couple clips to keep the rods on now that I know it works.





Started figuring out what I need to do to build my floor shifter. I'm going to use a spare Hurst shifter arm and then build up a mounting plate to pivot on, and a rod to go to the tranny to attach for shifting. I want it to have the look of a manual trans, as I'm not fond of the newer style shifters available.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-13-19 01:24 PM - Post#2777799    

Weather has been perfect for working on cars here, whether inside or outside. Running low to mid 60's for highs, so it's never too hot or too cold!
I got my other bucket seat modified and installed on the passenger side. The passenger seat has two pivot points, so it lays back, but 2nd pivot allows the seatback to go fully down and lay flat on the cushion for more room to the backseat area. Will make tossing things in the back a lot easier!



Then I got my shifter bracket built, and mounted to a slot I cut in the floor. A regular manual shifter boot will go over this later to hide the base plate.



The pivot point is under the floor, and I'll weld an extension on the Hurst shifter once I have the trans arm and can figure out how long to make the extension. I'll put a rod with a 3/8" heim on each end to adjust the position of the shifter. Still figuring out if I'll install a reverse lockout, or how to build it into this shifter.




1971BB427
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Posts 501
10-15-19 12:50 PM - Post#2777954    

Ran some errands this morning, but when I got home my double D shaft was waiting on the porch, so I went to the shop to install it. Along with the shaft was also my water pump pulley! I had a brand new NAPA short water pump, so I ordered upper and lower pulleys for that pump. Did a test fit to ensure the pulleys matched up, and they look perfect. Need to grab some more sealant and install the water pump permanently.



I got a 36" DD shaft, and it was just enough to do the job! It went up inside the column about 4" and with two steering joints it was just what I needed. I had a 24" stick here, but knew it wouldn't reach. I thought I might use it also, but the 36" was all it took. I made an angle iron support and attached it to the motor mount to give this long shaft extra support. It's extremely solid now! Also installed the bolts in the floor plate around the column to get that secured solid too.









So the steering is 100% complete now, and I can move on to other things.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-15-19 12:51 PM - Post#2777955    

About a decade ago I was perusing Craigslist and saw this set of Comp Engineering ladder bars, plus a pair of coilover shocks, and a crossmember, all for $150. I didn't need them, but the price was too good to not go look. I offered $125 and got it all.



I decided since thye were already "in stock" here, I'd make use of them on this project. But I wanted longer ladder bars, plus the Comp design has a flaw. Since the tubes aren't parallel they get wider apart as you adjust the joint at the end. So I decided to lengthen them, and also correct the angles to make them easier to adjust.
I cut the last 2" off each end to use as a threaded weld bung. Then I checked my 1.25" DOM tubing and found it was a snug fit over the tubes! I cut 4 pieces the length I wanted, and drove them over the ladder bar tubes. I heated one tube with my torch and bent it slightly to adjust the angle. Then I bolted them to the axle brackets to keep their position, and welded the extensions to the ladder bars.



They measure about 42" long now, from the original 34". Not a big change, but as much as I wanted. I might add one more cross tube between the added tubes just to ensure they're ridgid, but I think they're good even if I don't.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-16-19 01:03 PM - Post#2778044    

My project today was to get the gauge panel built. Nowhere near needing it, but I figured it would be a good change of venue today. I had a 1/4 sheet of 1/8" aluminum, so I marked it out to fit the 5 gauges inside the 4" x 12" dash opening. It was a tight squeeze, but made it in the area I had. I found studs on the backside of the dash, so drilled a pair of holes at each end of the panel, and opened up between them so I have a little adjustment to ensure it centers in the opening.



I got a set of white face gauges from Speedway. They had a similar panel, but wanted $130, and I figured I could make one and save a lot. Unfortunately my holesaws are not exactly gauge sizes! I only had to take about 1/16" off each side of the 2" gauge openings. But the speedo needed a 3 3/8" opening, and my kit has a 3" and a 3.5", so had to go 3" and spend an hour with a hand file opening it up to 3 3/8"! I marked the edge of the opening with a black felt marker so I could tell how much and where I was taking metal off. Helped keep it round, and avoid taking too much off.
I'm waiting for turn signal and high beam indicators, and they'll be added to the panel when they're here to double check hole size. Should be a way easier hole to make too!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
10-17-19 12:38 PM - Post#2778128    



I got a couple dozen holes welded up in my firewall this morning. I have no idea what the vast majority of these holes were even for? Can't begin to imagine on some of them? Of course they were the usual PITA to weld and not blow out too. The bigger holes got filler plates welded in, and 1/4" or smaller just got welded.



Then a coat of All Metal over them to finish them off.



After that I sanded down the dashboard and gave it a shot of 2x primer. Then another sanding and a 2nd coat. Some spots have some rust pits, (like the glovebox door) but most of it is pretty nice shape.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-18-19 02:19 PM - Post#2778194    

Got my 3/8" heim joints, so made up the shifter arm. The lever I got for the trans is an aluminum piece and when I bolted the heim to it the head of the bolt hit the trans in reverse or park. Stupid design with no offset. It's 5/16" thick, and not easily bent, so I countersunk the backside and used a flathead allen bolt to attach the heim and it cleared fine.
Lots of adjustment as each heim end has an inch. So I installed it, and adjusted travel to make 1st-4th easiest to reach, and just a little bit farther to get to park and reverse.

1st


Park


The stupid shaft on the trans drove me nuts trying to find a nut. Then I remembered it's new enough to be metric!! It's a 10x1.5mm, so went and bought one.
On the way home my trusty '69 Suburban was fine for 3 or 4 stops, and then in the parking lot of the parts store it wouldn't start! I could hear it trying to pull in, but wouldn't crank. The parts store checked the battery and said it was great. I reached down between the headers and tried to twist the hot cable and it moved! I cranked it CW to see if it could be tightened and it started up after that. So had to climb under it when I got home and give it a good wrenching to ensure it was really tight. Not sure how this stuff loosens with a lock washer on it?

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-19-19 02:59 PM - Post#2778255    

Got my front brakes fully assembled today, right down to the hoses. No lines yet. Then I pulled the rear tires and put on my 1.5" billet spacers. The guy who custom makes these tells me they're the only spacer allowed by NHRA. Very nice quality! So the tires are sitting out just where I wanted them now.
But of course I had to cut clearance on my fenders to allow them to hang out a bit. Just close for now as I'll do one more layout and cut the openings exactly where I want them. Whoever repaired these fenders used 3/8" rod, and it wasn't even down in the recess in most places. I cut the tack welds and the rod came right out.



So now I'm looking as to possibly doing a bit more trimming. If you look at the image above you'll notice I marked the front edge of the fender where it meets the body. The fender hangs down past the body because of the original running boards. I'll never use running boards on a car myself, and I think this extra looks odd.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
10-19-19 09:55 PM - Post#2778281    

You are doing a heck of a job getting your car together like you want it.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
10-20-19 03:45 AM - Post#2778288    

X2
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
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Posts 501
10-20-19 09:26 AM - Post#2778316    

Thanks! This early picture from when I first bought the '39 shows better how long the front of the rear fender really is!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
11-24-19 03:48 PM - Post#2780891    

Been a month since I updated this thread, but work has gone on during the last month.
I now have the entire undercarriage painted gloss black, plus the whole trunk floor and floors of the car. This is all painted gloss black with a 3" roller and paint brushes. This picture was before I did the final brush work to get to tight spots.



I also got the ladder bars I built installed, and now have the exhaust system all welded up and installed too.







Sanded and painted the dashboard a "desert sand" color, and covered the gauge panel and clock delete panel in burl wood.





The '52 Pontiac steering wheel needed restoration so I filled the cracks and chips with Duraglass and sanded it. A few coats of 2x primer, and I painted it to match the dash.



Got the Corvette manual master installed and all the brake lines fabricated and installed. Using a manual proportioning valve that I can adjust to reduce pressure to the drum brakes in the rear.



Painted the firewall, and brake master and lines can go back on now.



Fabricated my lower shock mounts. Need to fab the upper mounts yet, and get them welded or bolted on too.



Fuel cell is mounted, but waiting on -AN fittings I ordered to go from the -AN10 down to -AN6 for 3/8" line.



I'll install a shut off valve at the tank for maintenance use, and two fuel filters, before and after the fuel pump.
I'm going to begin the electrical harness soon. I've pre wired the gauges as much as possible, so I can wire in electrical connectors to allow the gauge panel to be easily removed if need be.



I'm using a new brand of 20 ckt. wiring harness, so unsure how it will compare to the Speedway GM kits I usually buy. This kit was half the price, and only difference I saw was it has no headlight switch or dimmer switch, so had to buy them separately.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
11-28-19 05:21 PM - Post#2781217    




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-04-19 03:28 PM - Post#2781498    

Got all my sound deadener/insulation laid down today.



I also got my fuse block mounted under the dash, and wired the steering column. Still a big rat's nest of wire to route to various parts of the car.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-05-19 05:15 PM - Post#2781558    

Started back in on the wiring, and ran into trouble. First I decided to mount the headlight switch, and use the factory hole. I put the fuse block too close to the dash, and being pretty high up it interfered with the switch mounting. So had to move the fuse block back towards the firewall to make room. Then I got to routing wiring, and decided to make up the dash area. Got wires sorted out and hooked up all the gauges. Then went to mount the panel and my panel hit the headlight switch too!! So again I had to stop and trim the panel off as short as possible on the left end so it wouldn't hit the switch.
Finally I got the gauges and steering column all done, and tidied up the dash wiring. Then I laid out the rear harness and saw it had tons of length. So instead of running it on the floor, I snaked it up the A pillar and above the driver's door on that side. Then dropped it down the C pillar at the rear, and into the trunk area. Still lots leftover to make up the taillights, especially since they're up high on the sides about halfway down the 1/4 panels.
I pulled all the extra wiring out of the looms that is for items I don't have nor ever will have. Also have about 10 extra circuits I'll land on a terminal strip so if I want to ever add anything it will be easy to just land the power on the strip.
Masked off the dash, and engine bay also, so I can begin sanding the body down to prepare to shoot epoxy sealer. Next week looks like we will get into the 50's, and if I'm ready I can add a little heat to the shop and prime the whole body.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
12-05-19 06:26 PM - Post#2781560    

You do great work. I used a Y N Z
on my 48. The harness does go up and over following the roof.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-06-19 02:54 PM - Post#2781609    

Thanks!!
This one is an Ebay harness that looks much like many other brands, but has the added feature of being universal. It comes with GM, FOrd, and Mopar instructions to tailor it and pin the steering column connector to whatever brand it's going in. Takes a little more time to install, but considering it was $85 shipped it's a great bargain.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-06-19 02:57 PM - Post#2781610    

My tail is dragging! 4 hours of non stop paint stripping with the paint stripper discs. But those "sponge" looking discs sure do a great job, and pretty fast. My little Harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder never shut off for more than a minute to move my step stool, or change locations.
Took another hour after I quit to finish vacuuming up dust! Didn't want to use air to blow it out as I figured it would end up settling back on the car again. I'll have multiple wipe downs before it's clean enough to shoot the epoxy primer.
The good news is I didn't find a single speck of body filler other than what I spread on the patch panels I put in. I did however find one more rust hole in the top of the cowl. Also found some dents above the rear window that appear to be from some kid climbing up on the roof. But the rest the roof is perfect, so guess they didn't get far. I think most will tap out with a hammer and dolly, and need almost no filler.
You can maybe see them in this image about 6" above the window. Just a few ripples.









Didn't strip the trunk lid or fenders as the lid is fiberglass, and fenders have been smoothed out already, and can just get primer now. I will eventually shoot the glass frontend, but not until it's test fitted and I know if it's ready to go on.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-08-19 01:26 PM - Post#2781717    

Got out there this morning and put my portable heater inside the car as Lash suggested. Then ran to Home Depot for tack cloth and a bunny suit with a hood to keep the paint off me. When I got home I did a dry wipe down, and then a second. Then did a few wipe downs with the tack cloths, and mixed up some primer.
I got my big 40 gal. air compressor out of storage, and set it up outside the shop. Then ran the hose inside and hooked up my old spray gun. I did a test spray and the darn gun wouldn't work properly. Fortunately I had a second brand new gun in the sidelines, so I grabbed it quickly and assembled it. Poured the primer in and went to work spraying. Of course I shut the heater off first and took it out of the car.
It laid down really well, and I did as a friend suggested in a phone call, and added some "fast" reducer to make it dry quicker with low temps. I painted it in 4 sections starting with the roof, then the trunk area, and finally each side. I had an issues with the seal on the lid of my gravity feed gun, and it dripped occasionally which created some runs where it landed on wet primer. And of course I had some other runs from getting the coats too heavy. But all in all it went great, and it's done.
I now recall how much I dislike the smell of automotive paint too! Even with a good respirator on it just doesn't really stop all the smell. At least the respirator kept me from getting a headache from the fumes!












1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
12-08-19 04:40 PM - Post#2781737    

I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-08-19 05:46 PM - Post#2781746    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,




Thanks! I went back out later this evening just to remove the masking, and see how it looked dry. It's not quite shiny, but a nice satin look to it.
I finally got my -10an to -6an reducers yesterday, so I can run the fuel line now. Running 3/8" hard line from tank to a filter just ahead of the fuel pump.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-26-19 06:08 PM - Post#2782990    

Stopped by Old Car Parts here in Portland to see if they had a pair of chrome headlight rings. They found three of them in varying states of less than perfect. But less than perfect is perfect for my build. One was a bit tarnished, one nice chrome, but missing the tensioning screw setup, and the last one had the setup, but a big dent down towards the bottom. So I worked a deal on all three, so I could piece two decent ones together.
While I was there I asked about the possibility of a locking outside door handle.....with key! Of course the owner said they never got anything like that in. Then he walked off to the back. As I was looking over my trim rings he came back out and laid a outside handle with a key in it on the counter!! So I now have a locking door handle for one side, which is all they originally had anyway. Chevy only put a lock in the passenger door back then, but my car has them in both doors, and no keys. So I'll lock the passenger door from inside, and the driver's door with my key.
??????? When I got home I took the rings to my basement shop, and got out my sand bag and a block of wood. I tapped the dent out of the one trim ring, and it came out great. Especially since the dent is on the bottom where nobody will see minor imperfections. I polished the other decent one with Mother's and it came out good also. Success!
And my -6AN kit of fittings and hose arrived also. So I can plumb up the carb to fuel pump and finish my plumbing too. That is if it ever gets warm enough again! Barely broke into the 40's today!
I did stay in the shop long enough to mount my taillight housings, so I can finish the wiring in the back. Still need to set the front fenders/hood on and mount the headlamp buckets so I can finish that wiring too.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-26-19 09:56 PM - Post#2783003    

Had one of those gut wrenching feelings the other day when my starter didn't fit. I began to wonder if my flexplate was wrong too? The flexplate on my 1990 350 has a big weight on it, and I was surprised to see that since I'd read all SBC except the SBC 400 were internally balanced.
So today I spent some time researching various SBC flexplates. It seems that 1955-'85 are 2 piece main seals and internally balanced. Except the SBC 400 that uses a special externally balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer. Then in 1986 Chevy decided to really screw things up! They added a externallly balanced flexplate, but kept the internal balancing enough to use the earlier internal balance harmonic balancer!
So the 1986-'97 are only half external balanced, and it's done so at the flexplate. Explains why mine has a externally balanced flexplate, but regular harmonic balancer. I can relax and not freak out over this now.
Another new learning experience for this old dinosaur!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
01-02-20 03:38 PM - Post#2783523    

So how does a guy fill tranny fluid in a dipstick tube that's almost horizontal? Seems like a perfect way to end up with fluid all over the top of your clean engine to me. Guess I'll have to get some clear fuel line and hook it to my funnel. Then slide it down the tube far enough and wrap a rag around the end to avoid drips.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Broo102
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 669
Broo102
01-02-20 08:49 PM - Post#2783561    

rotate the trans dip stick tube to the up position?
Thanks!
Bru
John 3:16
32 Chev. 5 Win. Sports Coupe
47 Chev. convertible in progress

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
01-03-20 05:40 PM - Post#2783632    

It's bent to sit in this location, and bolts to the bellhousing. It wont clear in any other position, and still fit into the trans.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
01-08-20 03:45 PM - Post#2784006    

I've been pondering how to do the headlights and turn signals on the coupe. I already purchased sealed beam buckets off a Ford truck, but I couldn't see a good way to be able to adjust them for level. And then there was the turn signal issue too. The old headlights had the turn signals in the headlamp above center, and I kinda liked that. I had a couple LED type chrome pods I considered, but wasn't really sold on them either.
So I hit the Pick N Pull today and went looking for donors. I ended up pulling halogen sockets and reflectors from a wrecked Ford SUV, and tore the busted up lenses off. Then I stopped at Oreillys and got a pair of 1157 sockets. So this was what I started with:



And these old reflectors and buckets from my coupe:



I started by using an old 3" header collector as a pattern, and traced a circle around the donor reflectors.



Then I cut the reflectors down with my bandsaw, and ground them smooth to the line I marked. After that I removed the sockets from the coupe's reflectors, and opened up both holes larger. Since all the silver was off the copper reflectors, I shot them with rattlecan chrome.



After shooting them I pre drilled the donor halogen sockets and then held them centered on the reflectors and drilled one hole for a pop rivet. Then drilled the other three holes. After the new sockets were in I installed the signal sockets in where the original sockets were. I had to notch the donor halogen sockets as they were slightly large and covered the turn signal hole.







Once they were finished I took them over to my quad and used the battery to test the headlights and turn signals. They work great and the turn signals are plenty bright enough to be seen with the headlights on. I think I'll likely use LED headlight lamps instead of these halogen, just so they last longer and have no maintenance issues.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
01-08-20 05:42 PM - Post#2784014    

Only thing to me that is acceptable is upgrade, rework the originals like you are doing!
I never liked those turn signals Frenched in to the bottom of the front renders, looks cheap too me.
just an opinion
Just saying
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
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Posts 501
01-08-20 09:17 PM - Post#2784029    

The pods I considered using were shaped like the taillight pods at the rear, except they are chrome. But I couldn't find a location to install them that I liked. Ford put a similar pod on the side of the '33/'34 Fords, and I considered that. But they looked odd held up there. I finally decided if I used them I'd mount them below the front fenders on a bracket off the frame rails. That way they'd be seen, but no new holes drilled.
But when I began disassembling the headlights to convert them it was just too obvious that they should remain where they used to be. Even if it's a hotrod, some things just look good the way Chevy did it in 1939. But I did have to modify the wiring since the old headlights had no high/low beams. So the rubber grommet with 3 holes had to go and be replaced with a single hole grommet that could hold 5 wires for headlights and park/turn signals, plus a ground.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
01-19-20 03:40 PM - Post#2784683    

Finished sanding the grille today! Gave it a couple coats of 2x primer and then after that dried I shot the VHT graphite wheel paint on it. Didn't come out quite as dark as I expected, so chrome doesn't contrast as much as I hoped. But I think I'll leave it for now.





I'd love a pretty chrome grille, but they cost as much as $1500-$1600, so I decided repairing mine and painting it would be more suitable for the budget.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
01-24-20 12:51 PM - Post#2785081    

Beginning the battle with this extremely poor fitting fiberglass frontend clip! It sits about 1.5" high, and it's caused from either poor storage sag, or poorly built orignally. Either way, it's way off and way too thick to deal with as it is.







So I spent a couple hours on the fiberglass before the dust and just putting the front clip on and off finally got to me. But it is beginning to move a bit!
I started with my cutoff disc and cut through the brace. It turned out to be what my wife calls "floral foam" that florists use. The floral foam was covered in a thick layer of fiberglass to form the brace. Then I made cuts about halfway through the hood to give it some relief, but also so I could judge how deep I was going while sanding.





After the cuts I cut through the brace, and removed all of the horizontal bracing. Then I used a flapper disc to begin to grind away the surface too thin it down and allow it to flex more.





Didn't want to go too much without checking, so I put it on the car again to see if it released enough to move. The first time made little difference, so I removed a bit more and tried it again. I got to about 3/16" thick and it's beginning to pull down into shape.
As this image shows, it still needs to be thinned more to allow it to drop. It's sitting tight on top of the cowl and the sheer thickness is too much to allow it to flex, and the thickness is greater than the stock hood, so it just sits higher.





I need to remove more fiberglass from the inside corners of the hood to let that area relax more. But my rear was dragging, so I quit for the day. I did test fit the grille also, and that area needs work too. The lip they have inside the opening is too thick, and the wrong angle. It may need to be completely cut off and reattached. Or maybe a a metal lip glued along the edge so the grille sits in the opening better. Right now I have to squeeze the grille width together just to get it to sit in the opening. It's just sitting in there, so a bit lower than the finished mounting will be.



Put the bricks back on the fenders so they keep working to help it settle down hopefully.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-08-20 09:15 PM - Post#2786147    

Change in direction. I decided the one piece glass frontend was too far out of whack as is, so I've dissected it. I cut the hood loose from the fenders and grille, and removed a bunch of crappy glass work on the hand laminated pieces. It is very strong, but so thick it wont fit in place and look even close to decent.
So my new method will be a front clip sans the side hood panels. The hood will be connected to the front fenders via Dzus fasteners that will allow the frontend to tilt open with or without the hood in place. I will also have the option of simply twisting a few fasteners and set the hood aside and run with or without the hood.
The fenders, grille, and hood will have a steel tube framework inside that I'll attach to the fiberglass with 3M 8115 body panel adhesive. The framework will keep the frontend rigid whether open or closed, and with or without the hood in place.

Here's the mock up so far. Two hood pins at the cowl, and 4 Dzus fasteners clipping the hood to the grille plate.





1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
02-09-20 09:20 AM - Post#2786167    

Probably a good decision.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-09-20 02:03 PM - Post#2786194    

I spent some time today measuring and adjusting everything to ensure the front fenders were the same height, and perfect relationship to the body, and the frame. I ended up shifting it slightly to the driver's side, and slightly back also to get the whole thing lined up. Then looked at the hood to grille again, and after some frustration with it still not in alignment I made a template off the top of the grille from cardboard to see which side was off. This was likely a big part of the passenger side wanting to hang out further than the driver's side when I tried to pull the grille into alignment before.
I laid the cardboard on the top of one grille side and marked it. Then cut it out with scissors and laid it over the passenger side half of the hood lip. It matched perfectly, so I laid it over the driver's side hood lip and to my horror it was off a half inch between the peak of the hood and the opening on the side! No wonder the grille top wanted to extend out farther than the hood! I made another cardboard template of the pass. side hood contour and used it to check the driver's side, and found the curve was much less and pretty flat! It just wont ever line up as it is.
So I marked out the offending area and grabbed the cutoff wheel and went after it. I made cuts clear through an inch apart up to the edge of the affected area. Then I bent up a piece of my 3/4" steel tube to match the contour I needed and clamped it on the backside to force the "fingers out". After forcing them out I turned on the heat and warmed up the shop. Mixed up some fiberglass resin and laid down a few layers over the top side of the cuts to strengthen, and hold them.



Left the tubing on the backside and scuffed up the fiberglass cloth, and gave it a coat of Duraglass filler. Once that set up I removed the tubing and gave it another coat that got it out further towards the ends.



When the final coat dried I held up the template and it looks like I'm slightly high now on the curved shape. I'll knock it down with a flapper disc, and then check it against the grille to see if it aligns better now.



Duraglass is really tough to work with for more than just rough coats. So I'll knock it down slightly low and give the area a skim coat of filler I can actually sand and shape. Hopefully this will get things a little closer to fitting. I sure hope so, as I'm tired of fiberglass, and everything to do with it!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-10-20 02:28 PM - Post#2786248    

Well part of this nightmare got solved just a few minutes ago!! I was perusing Craigslist, and nothing of interest. But I decided to check Seattle 3.5 hrs. away, and there's a pair of original front fenders, complete with the headlight housings for sale!
I contacted the guy to ask price and location, and he tells me $200 and he lives just 15 miles from me! I rushed over to see them and they're rust free, and no dings! One fender has a 1.5" long crack that will need to be welded, but that's it!
I'm super excited to have real steel, and I'll see if I use the hood or not. If it fits the steel fenders better, then I may retain the fiberglass hood. It feels like a huge weight lifted off my build with great fenders to restart with.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-11-20 02:35 PM - Post#2786328    

I got out there in the mid 30's cold this morning and stripped one fender, and the mating edge of the other fender. Shot the edges with primer so I could bolt them up. Then headed over to Old Car Parts and made a deal on the chin piece he had. It's extremely nice, and was blasted already. Just needed the two dents pounded out and then shot with primer too.





After that I bolted the fenders up to the body with the 5 holes that mate there. What a fantastic fit! They aligned great with the body, and I finally have both front tires sitting inside the fenders. With the glass fenders it was shifted to one side enough that it looked like my axle was off to one side! Now the hood aligns much better with the fenders too! No time to check the grille alignment as my buddy needed me to help wire his winch for his new tilt trailer.
But it's sure nice now, even if it's not completely cleaned up yet! Little bit of filler in the top of this fender.



This one is the one with a crack I need to weld up.



Hard to tell yet, but this opening sure looks closer to the grille for fit!



I'll have to start measuring and making all the brackets and mounts to secure the front part of the clip now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
02-12-20 05:34 AM - Post#2786348    

Good deal on the fenders!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-13-20 03:38 PM - Post#2786442    

  • rcr3 Said:
Good deal on the fenders!



Thanks. I thought it was a very good deal, and timely too! Only wish I'd found them before I did so much work.


Got the grille bolted in place today, and it fit great! Before bolting it in I made up a sheet metal plate for the chin piece just to reinforce the area. I shot it with etching primer on the back and then pop riveted it in. Gave the top side a coat of more primer so I can just paint it later.



One of the upper fender supports that bolts into the headlight housing was gone, so I cut up some cardboard and made a template off the other. Reversed it and bent it up from a piece of 18 ga. sheet steel. The original is a stamped sheet metal piece, so I duplicated that. Had to cut internal corners, and then weld it together after making the bends.



I drilled the single hole with the unibit, and then clamped the bracket under the fender and drilled the two holes that go inside the headlamp. Bolted it up under the fender, and I'll make braces that go from the frame to these later.



Bolted the grille in with 1/4-20 bolts, and the biggest fender washers I have for better support.



Then I made up another sheet metal plate for the top of the grille. This will serve several purposes. Strengthening the grille so it wont flex. Keeping the incoming air trapped so it has to go through the radiator, and wont go over the top of it. And a place to mount my front hood pins that will hold the front of the hood down.



Tried the hood back on and the fit was much better! It needs very little beyond some surface grinding to lower the side I built up. I also needed to take some material off the edge that contacts the grille top trim. It touched on the driver's side, but was 1/4" off on the passenger side. So I traced along the edge with a felt pen and took some off with the flapper disc.





You can see here where the passenger side was just a tiny bit higher.



A little skim coat of filler and some hand blocking, and the hood will be ready for primer.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-15-20 04:31 PM - Post#2786598    

Fired up the heater and went to work building braces today so I could get the jackstands out from under the front fenders. I have no idea how the fenders were supported, but I've got none of those parts, so this was my plan. I made up these vertical braces to hold it up.





Once bolted on it felt really solid. But then I grabbed the fenders and wiggled them laterally and they moved quite a bit. There's a lot of tin hanging out there, so I made lateral braces from the frame out to existing holes in the lower fender lip. I couldn't find any info on lower braces either, but found holes on either side of the bumper bracket reliefs in the fenders. So attached to those holes, and they worked great to tighten it up.
I grabbed my nutsert tool and installed nuts into a bunch of existing holes, which saved a lot of time, and let me use blind holes. The more I use the nutserts, the more I love them. Used up all my 5/16 nutserts, so need to order more soon!
After that I got out the '32 Ford radiator, and built a pair of bottom brackets to hold it. The mounts were 1.5" narrower than my frame rail width, so I added 2.5" to the bottom of each frame rail with plates, and bolted them in to the frame lip. One hole was there, so only needed to add a 2nd to each side. Then a single bolt through the radiator mount, and some rubber under it to isolate it.



Radiator is REALLY close fitting! The brackets on the upper sides are less than 1/4" from the fenders, and that's moving it back close to the fan to get to a wider area.





I still have to fabricate upper mounts from some point to the two side brackets. There's also a center top plate that could be used, but I'd like to not use the two stock rods back to the firewall. If I can locate some nice chrome, or polished aluminum 3/8"rods I'd use them, but otherwise I make a bracket to tie the radiator into the grille top.
Top hose is a gimme to find and install. Bottom is a very short 90 degree hose that isn't maybe 12" total. Might be interesting to see what i can find in a 1.75" hose that's a short 90!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-17-20 03:17 PM - Post#2786745    


I got my brace built and installed to tie the fenders together today. Took no time at all to build it, but a lot more time to take everything apart to sandwich it into the fenders and my other braces. It stiffened things up so much I bet I could stand on those fenders now! The U shape will give me plenty of clearance for the fan.





I also made up my 3/8 radiator support rods. That took way more to thread than I ever guessed! I figured it's aluminum, so couldn't be that hard? But the short threads at the radiator end were brutal to get done. A 1/4 turn at a time or the die stuck to the rod! I decided the other end's 2" of threads would be impossible at this rate, so I turned the rod down on my 1" belt sander to reduce diameter. I think the 3/8" size they call it was much larger! Even after reducing it was tough, but not nearly like before!
After threading both ends I bent the offsets to get them widened, and drilled holes at both ends. They went in great, and the radiator is also really solid now.







Next I bent up some 1/8" x 1" steel flat bar and drilled two holes in it for my hidden hood pins. I drilled two pilot holes first, and laid it on my grille top plate and then opened all the holes up to 1/2". I bent up the flat bar so it contoured to the inside of the hood. Then spaced it up and put it over the hood pins so I could bond it to the hood. At this point things went a bit sideways as they sometimes do. I set up the 3M panel bond in the double caulk gun, but no matter how hard I squeezed only the gray half moved! The cream colored half wouldn't budge at all, and eventually it started bending the caulk gun. So I stopped and removed the tubes from the gun. I grabbed my band saw and cut the ends off of both tubes, and used a paint stir stick to dig it out of the tubes. I mixed it together on a pallet, and applied it to the inside of the hood where I'd pre marked it. Then sat the hood in place over my bracket and let it set up. It worked fine, and the bracket is extremely solid. I'll need to open up the holes in the bracket slightly so the bracket slides over the hood pins easier, but not much. Maybe 9/16" should do it.
Stripped both headlights, and shot them with primer. I need to weld these holes up on the side, so didn't bolt them down yet. There's one hole per light, but both on the right side, so maybe these were off two different cars and both from the same side?


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-20-20 04:16 PM - Post#2786953    

Got the rust hole welded up on the passenger lower front fender, and the crack in the driver's front fender welded up. Also welded up the two 5/8" holes in the headlight housings. Then I stripped the rest the paint off the driver's side fender and after prepping both fenders I shot them with primer to make sure they don't flash rust.
Got out the Rustoleum gloss black and painted the inside of both fenders also. Should have done the weld repairs, and painted them inside and out before hanging them as it would have been way easier. I ended up with gloss black everywhere I could get it on me! Hands, face, hair, you name it. Not a fun cleanup, but they're ready for bodywork now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-21-20 01:55 PM - Post#2787013    

Well the first light of day in over 6 months! And I'm very happy with the stance, and pretty much everything so far. Got a tow strap on the rear and pulled it out front with the old Suburban this morning. Took some pictures while I waited for my nephew to get here. It's on our sloped front yard, so sitting low on the passenger side, and high on the driver's side. But just slightly uphill in front.
It's nice to see it from more than 3'-4' away finally.











My neighbor came over to see it also, so the 3 of us pushed it back into the shop easily.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
02-22-20 09:54 AM - Post#2787051    

Looking great.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
02-22-20 02:23 PM - Post#2787068    

that is totally sickening!
geez what a fine piece of machinery!
very nice, even in primer that thing is kick ssa,
thanks for the pics!
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-22-20 05:20 PM - Post#2787078    

Thanks guys! Appreciate the feedback!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

markr1001
Newbie
Posts 8
02-24-20 12:35 PM - Post#2787215    

very nice! your giving me lots of insperation and hope for my 36 i hope to start soon
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-25-20 08:59 AM - Post#2787300    

Thanks! It's been challenging to start with a car where the sides flapped like saloon doors when you shut the doors! But now that the rusty metal is replaced with solid steel it's really all downhill from here!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-26-20 03:33 PM - Post#2787401    

Another gorgeous day here in the great NW! I did the final fitting on my hood, and then painted the inside gloss black. I adjusted my front hood pins to match the bracket I mounted inside the hood and locked them in. I added a flat bar to the back side of the top grille plate, just to ensure it was very solid, and strong.



Also added a double plate to the bracket inside, as it's narrow and I wanted it to be thicker.



Did a weld on each end of the double plate, and a few tacks on the edge. That should make it plenty strong.
Once I got the hood and pin setup done I bent up brackets to mount the electric fan. It came with those cheap wire ties that you push through your radiator, and I've had issues with those breaking, or damaging the core. So I prefer mounting it slightly off the radiator and hooked to metal near the radiator. The grille mounting bolts were a good spot to attach brackets, and keep them short.

I also sanded the exhaust pipes between the header collector, and the cutouts, and then shot this part satin black VHT. The pipes are kinda out there, and they detract from the look, so I think the satin black makes them blend in better.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
02-29-20 05:22 PM - Post#2787633    

Temp dropped like a rock today! About 15 degrees colder than yesterday, but I spent the day on the car anyway. I reworked the holes slightly for the hood pins, and then installed the stainless scuff plates on the hood.
After that I measured up where to penetrate the floor and routed all my front wiring. Once it was routed I began the tedious chore of wrapping, and securing it. Added grommets and black plastic covering where it could see any harm, and tied it all up in place. Didn't get to actually hooking any of it up as it just took so long to route and dress it down.
I cut down the 12"x 12"x 1.75" 90 degree lower hose and installed it on the radiator. Put the thermostat housing on and discovered the upper hose is the wrong diameter. The bozos gave me another 1.75" instead of the 1.5" I needed. So just stopped there, and quit for the day.
I also discovered my wiring harness uses a 80a. fusible link that's a plug in type, but they didn't supply the link. So need to pick one of those up also. Have to spring for a battery soon also as I need to test everything I've wired before long.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-05-20 04:21 PM - Post#2788006    

Hooray! It is semi alive today! Went and got a battery for it today, and was going to just put it in the battery box in the trunk and hook it up. But then I thought why not try to see what might work? So I pulled the headlight switch and got park and headlights. Hit the left/right turn signals and left worked in front, but not right. In the back nothing worked! No lights, turn signals, etc. I figured it was cheap censored LED lights that came with it, so I tried hooking my test light to the neg. on the battery and all wires checked good. Looked a little further and realized I'd never finished landing the grounds at the taillights! DUH! High and low beams worked well, and actually got them correct side to side!
 But still no right turn signal front or rear. Got to the column plug and began checking and found the new connector that came with the kit was crap. Luckily I had a good factory connector I'd cut off the truck I took the column out of. So I cut the other connector off and spliced all the wires one at a time. Plugged it back in and got lights working everywhere! Man those LED headlights, and taillights are freaking bright! I'm still waiting delivery on a 3rd eye brake light to mount on the license plate frame also. Should really see the car when I touch the brakes!
 Bumped the starter, just to see if it hit and it did. No oil, and no ignition wiring to the electronic distributor, so can't run it yet. But at least it bumps when I am ready to hit it.
 My custom stainless steel upper radiator hose got here today, so I can install that, and fill it with coolant. Then I've still got that ignition to do, plus various switches for overriding the electric fan, dome light, and a few other items. Need to build a switch plate for under the dash first, and then I can wire them all up.
 Might just possibly be able to fire it up in a few days. I need to pull the distributor first, as I'd prefer to prime the oil system just before firing it. It's sat dry a long time, so it wont be good to fire it without a prime first.
 Once it can start up and run I can pull it out of the shop when I begin sanding and doing bodywork. I hope that saves all the mess of sanding dust inside the shop if I can do most of it outside on nice days. At least I can back it out to blow off the car, and the shop occasionally if it runs.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
03-05-20 09:21 PM - Post#2788022    

Outstanding work. How many cars have you built?
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-06-20 08:28 PM - Post#2788100    

For myself probably well over two dozen. And about 6 or 7 for friends. But I'm closing in on 70 now, and this will be my last full ground up build.

Did a list, and I exaggerated on my own cars. It's been 22, not over two dozen.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-07-20 05:42 PM - Post#2788162    

Spent some quality time just cleaning up the shop today. I knew it was time when I couldn't find the new window crank knobs and escutcheons I bought recently. Of course once I cleaned the whole shop I still couldn't find them. I was sure I'd put them in the same cardboard box as the door and window hardware, but not there. Then I decided to assemble the taillight lenses, but the gaskets were in the same bag as the door hardware. Opened the trunk to get the lenses and there was the bag with the missing parts! So I got the lenses both assembled and installed. One housing had the 8-32 hole stripped out, so opened it up to 10-32 and tapped it oversized. Worked great after opening the chrome trim slightly also.
Now if I can just find that darn hood ornament, and the suction cups I use for holding window glass! They seem to be taking their turn at hiding!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-08-20 01:45 PM - Post#2788230    

Frustrating day today. I poured the engine full of oil, and primed it. Then dropped the distributor in with new wiring completed. Couldn't locate a distributor hold down, so I ran to 3 parts stores that all showed they had them online, but none in any storesh. Finally got out some 1/4" plate and my die grinder and had to build one.
Then I figured I'd put the 4th gear lockup solenoid kit in my 700r4 and wire it up, so if I started the car I'd have trans fluid in too. But the kit made no sense on the wiring? It shows no electrical connection to the external 4 pin plug on the trans, and a normally open switch wired into the system that isn't in the kit? So I went to Superior Transmission's web site to look up my KO13 kit, but no help there. Shows the same kit without any N.O. switch either? So had to send off a question to their tech line, and wit for an answer back before I can attempt to fire the car off.
Bought 3 gallons of trans fluid as it's likely dry, and not sure what it takes. I see everything from 6 qts. with the converter to 11 qts. with the converter, so playing it safe to have plenty if I need it. I'll pour in 1.5 gallons first, and then add until it reads full in neutral running.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-09-20 07:28 AM - Post#2788272    

A friend pointed me to this web site with some great info on the 700r4 transmissions.

http://purplesagetradingp ost.com/sumner/techinfo/7...

I was able to look there and see the 4th gear lockup solenoid is connected to terminals A and B on the connector. So all I need to do is hook power to the pressure switch, and then hook to either A or B, and to ground from there. Should be very easy.
 But first I'm going to remove the old radio faceplate I covered with wood grain vinyl. I'll build a new one from sheet metal that I can mount my trans switch, exhaust cutout switches, and whatever other switches I need in that. Then cover it with more wood grain vinyl and reinstall. 
 Waiting on a throttle cable, but I can still fire it up using my remote starter switch and operating the carb by hand outside.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
03-09-20 07:59 AM - Post#2788274    

Good luck with the first start.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-09-20 08:19 AM - Post#2788276    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good luck with the first start.



Thanks! No matter how many cars I build, or how well I prepare, first starts always make me nervous until they're done.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-11-20 02:33 PM - Post#2788450    

Did the test on the 700r4 solenoid and it worked out well. I could hear the internal solenoid clicking in when I jumpered the pressure switch, so all is well.
Wired up all my 5 toggle switches too, and mounted them in the blank off plate. Installed the base for the dome light, and got it working also. Poured 5 gallons of gas into the tank and hooked up my remote start to see if I could fire the engine. At first it seemed to not have any spark, but then it caught and tried to run. I tried it numerous times and it catches, and tries to run, but never kept running. Checked the coil and ignition switches, but everything checks out good. I did find a couple vacuum ports open, which shouldn't cause it not to start, but plugged them anyway.
Before I could try it again I noticed the sight glasses for both bowls were leaking like a sieve, and I had to put rags under them to catch the fuel. So now I ordered sight glass repair kits and will install new glass, O rings, and clips before I can try another start up. So close, but not today!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-12-20 10:57 AM - Post#2788504    

Last night I did some snooping around the internet for options. Not particularly fond of the 700 Demon carb I have since someone removed the choke plate and all the linkage to it. I ran across a deal on a Quick Fuel 650 double pumper with electric choke for under $250 brand new, and free shipping. So I ordered the Quick Fuel carb, and will swap it on the coupe when it arrives.
I'll still get the sight glass kit, and install it on the Demon, and then I can resell it for a small price and not feel like I'm selling a leaker to some innocent party.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-17-20 02:44 PM - Post#2788863    

While I'm waiting on the new carb, and we're self quarantining, I figured I'd tie up loose ends. I got little bits and pieces over the weekend, so began assembling some things.
Installed the throttle cable, and cut it to length for housing. Wait to trim the inner cable after the carb is here. Installed the pedal assembly, and repaired the broken end on the cable arm. Someone broke it off, so I cut a piece of 1/8" stock and drilled and bolted it to the arm to make it back to the correct length.
I also got the sight glass repair kit for the old Demon, and installed those parts. Will stick it on Craigslist and hope to get my money back on it.
 I keep an old fan belt here to measure with that is cut at one end. I wrapped it around the pulleys, and then measure the length of how short it is, or how much too long it is. Then take the measurement to the parts store and get a belt. This engine needed a 55" for the alternator/water pump, so got that taken care of too.
I had a nice polished stainless catch can-recovery tank, so built brackets and plumbed it into the radiator. Filled it with coolant and it's ready to go.
Carb is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, and if it gets here early enough I may try round 2 of starting the engine. Weather is gorgeous here today at low 60's and supposed to be similar all week. Was actually nice enough to leave the doors open on the shop wile I worked on the coupe today!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-18-20 03:10 PM - Post#2788944    

It arrived too late to install today, but tomorrow for sure! The new Quick Fuel 650 DP carb! I like the two tone look Quick Fuel does.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-19-20 05:37 PM - Post#2789014    

I got the '39 fired up today, and it ran pretty well for no tune at all. Loaded it up on Youtube so I can post a link at the end of this reply.

All went well, but it did get pretty warm running inside the shop until I turned the fan on. Then it ran around 180 degrees. I'm sure when it's outside it will run cool regardless.
Had an issue with that nifty stainless steel upper radiator hose though. It leaked after I shut the engine off, and wouldn't stop no matter how much I tightened the clamps. I pulled it off and thought I'd just run the open hose with the SS hose, but that's when I saw the clamps had actually dug into the splice hose at each end and split it! The cheap hose had no cloth reinforcement inside, and was more of a soft pure rubber than regular radiator hose is. I went over to the parts store and bought a 1.5" radiator hose that had enough straight section to cut off two 5" straights. Slid them on and tightened the heck out of them. They held beautifully and work like radiator hose is supposed to work.
I stuck a timing light on the engine and it was only off about 2 degrees after timing it by ear. Still need to final adjust lifter lash, and tweak the carb. Also need to get a carb return spring as the idle kept fluctuating if I didn't press the linkage closed a little by hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqoLl_SjjaA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNH7CP9xd-M

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
03-19-20 08:17 PM - Post#2789025    

Sound good.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-20-20 06:56 AM - Post#2789044    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Sound good.



Thanks Keith! I'll get the final tune done, and see if it changes any.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-20-20 04:28 PM - Post#2789073    

A friend dropped by this morning to hear the engine. I stepped on the pedal to set the choke and touched the key. She fired right off like it had fuel injection, and knew what to do!
Blipped the throttle after a few minutes, and it idled right down and ran perfectly. Set up the timing light and it was 2 degrees off what I like, so I gave it a bump and locked it down. I adjusted the carb idle air screws, which were nearly closed from the factory! None of the 4 corner screws were much over 1/4 turn open. They seemed to run best a full turn open, or close to it, so left them there.
I got the bucket seats out, and after doing a major tool cleanup inside I mounted them back in the car. They'll need to come out again before carpet, but need them to drive the car in or out while doing the bodywork.
While I was bolting the seats down I noticed trans fluid on the floor. Looked where it came from and the trans cooler is cracked. It was brand new, but given to me by a friend who went 4 speed and didn't need it. So ordered a new Hayden trans cooler and have to wait a few days until it arrives to top off the trans and move the car.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
03-20-20 07:12 PM - Post#2789087    

Glad everything is working out with your engine.
We sold Hayden coolers for the Allison transmissions we sold, when I worked for a Detroit Diesel Allison distributorship in Berkeley CA.
Only worked there as a journeyman partsman for 38 1/2 years.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-21-20 06:09 AM - Post#2789110    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Glad everything is working out with your engine.
We sold Hayden coolers for the Allison transmissions we sold, when I worked for a Detroit Diesel Allison distributorship in Berkeley CA.
Only worked there as a journeyman partsman for 38 1/2 years.



ONLY 38 1/2 years? That's a long time at one place, and very fortunate to have been able to stay at one place that long!
I moved about every 7 years for the first half of my career as an electrician. Then in the late 80's went to work for a local contractor and stayed there for 23 years to retirement.

I wanted to start building the divider wall, and platform behind the front seats now, but local restrictions due to corona virus told us to stay home except for food and gas, and no unnecessary trips. So can't go buy the materials to start the work. So now I'm stalled waiting on the cooler, but can't switch to interior work. Guess I'll just think about ways to do things, and hope they allow us to do more soon!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-21-20 02:45 PM - Post#2789162    


We had another perfect weather day here, so I chanced going to Home Depot and bought a sheet of finished, sanded plywood. I just couldn't sit and twiddle my thumbs knowing in a week everything might be shut down!
So started out measuring up the back seat trunk divider, and cut up a filler. The opening is wider than 4', so had to add a filler piece to each side to get it all closed.



Then I made another for the base and it sits right on the tunnel. I added braces underneath on each end, and a filler along each side in front. Then bent up some really thin metal to tie the base to the back panel. Like the back panel the base needed fillers on each end also, but the support underneath I made wide enough to screw the pieces to the same support and make it stronger and easier.



After that was done I planned on building out the hinged cover to go over the fuel tank filler and cover vent and wiring. But after looking at having to make it narrower than the trunk lid opening to hinge and raise it, plus cutout for battery, and side bracing, I realized there wouldn't be much left of a cover! I decided to make a cover that was boxed in off the existing divider in the trunk, and not hinge it. The divider is 5" tall so I built a box the same height and screwed it to the lip of that divider. So it leaves the battery and gas filler accessible and doesn't require me to lift a panel to fill gas. It left a recess in front, which might be a good place for a space saver spare if I ever took a long trip and wanted to toss in a spare tire and jack.







At some point I'll be covering all this with black carpet right up to the package shelf. Probably do the shelf in vinyl to match door panels.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-22-20 04:20 PM - Post#2789270    

Last of the warm weather from what I see in the forecast, so I did some painting today. Wanted to paint the divider and cover box in the car. Hoping paint will allow the carpet to stick even better. And of course paint in the trunk is just to make everything black.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-28-20 04:36 PM - Post#2789674    

The Hayden replacement trans cooler came in recently, so tore out the old cooler and fabricated new mounts for the Hayden cooler. Started it up, and no more leaks!
I'm glad I got 3 gallons of trans fluid because it too all but one quart to fill the 700R4 trans. Once I got it warmed up and full I tested the gears, and it seemed to work fine. Still need to get it out when the rain stops and adjust the TVR cable to set shift points.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-31-20 03:03 PM - Post#2789927    

Just buttoning up little things today. Fixed the leak at the rear brake fitting by cutting it off and flaring the end again. Dressed up wiring under the dash, and installed my new electronic tach. Started it up to check tach and the darn tach was reading 4,000 rpm's at idle! Shut it off and pulled the tach off the column. Opened it up and it had a selector switch inside. It was set to "4 cyl"! Switched it to 8 cyl. and it worked great.
Hooked up the fill lines for the air shocks at the rear and put 30 lbs. in the shocks. They wont need much as they're just there for trips to the strip occasionally. I plumb them with separate feed lines so I can put an extra 15-20 psi in the right rear to make it launch straight. Then put it back down even for daily driving.
Dug out my racing belts to see where to mount them. I'm only using the lap portion since I wont be doing a roll cage in this car. But I do prefer racing belts over the factory wimpy crap.
Engine was running a little rich, so I checked float level and it was way too high from the factory. At the top of the sight window, do drained it down and adjusted floats to bottom of the window. Then had to open up the idle mixture screws to give it a bit more gas.
Now I just wish I could get somebody to pump the brakes so I could bleed them! Wife refuses to help on brakes anymore. Says I'm not patient with her.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
04-01-20 10:40 AM - Post#2789997    

I have heard that a lot about wives and bleeding brakes. My wife never helped with any of our cars.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

markr1001
Newbie
Posts 8
04-02-20 03:11 AM - Post#2790061    

im lucky my wife grew up helping her impatient father bleeding brakes. she has no problem helping me do it or telling me where to go when i get grumpy with them hahaha
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-02-20 05:07 PM - Post#2790163    

My new screws for the window channels in my doors came in today, so decided to get all the new fuzzy channel installed. The channel came with stainless #4 x 1/4" flathead wood screws, but they didn't have enough thread showing after going through the channel to barely grab in the holes. Plus being stainless they are impossible to hold, and trying to locate the hole caused me to lose 6 of the screws for every hole I drilled!
I ordered #4 flathead 1/2" long, and zinc plated. What a difference! Still tough to locate the holes I drill, because they close up after you pull the drill out. But marking the edge of the channel, and being able to hold the screw with a magnetic tip screwdriver made it go very well.
The top and rear edge of the door window opening is one piece that's done with bendable channel. The front vertical that's adjacent to the wing window is solid channel in straight pieces. And the lower door window opening is just a single edge stainless with rubber and fuzz on it to keep windows from rattling. Took about 6 hours to get both doors done with all the new channels and fuzzy edge, but they're ready for door glass. I need to buy the self adhesive rubber for wing windows, and door track, and of course nobody is open that has it. So I'll probably take a stab at installing the windshield and back window glass. Might be a task for two, but I'll use my glass suction cups, and see if I can do it without help.

I think I discovered why my vacuum brake bleeder wasn't working on the car too! I happened to be laying on the floor of the car reaching up inside the door, and looked over at the bake pedal. I noticed the brake operating rod was off center, so grabbed a flashlight to investigate. It had dropped out of the indent in the master that centers it! So it was holding the piston on the master cylinder down about 38"-1/2"! Guessing that was also closing off the ports from the master cylinder reservoir, and not allowing my vacuum pump to pull fluid down the lines!
I readjusted the rod so it doesn't have as much free play, and doesn't allow the rod to drop free from it's indent. I'll give the vacuum pump another try soon and see if I get better results than I did the other day!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
04-03-20 09:19 AM - Post#2790215    

Making progress.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-05-20 03:03 PM - Post#2790398    

Progress is halted completely as of Friday. I've been having some stomach issues for the last 6 weeks, and on Friday I had a painful attack that was more than some previous pain, so my wife rushed me to the emergency room. Of course getting into a hospital these days is not easy, but once they let you in the place is empty, and plenty of doctors to help.
The doctor ran blood, urine tests, and did a CT scan. Came back and told me I've got a large gallstone, and it blocking the duct from my gallbladder. He went on to say that normally they'd take me straight to surgery and remove it. But the rules during corona virus are to not do any surgery that's not life threatening. So instead they gave me a shot of morphine for pain, and two IV's to take care of the dehydration from vomiting, and sent me home with a prescription pain killer to wait.
Whenever they get the OK to do surgeries, or the gallbladder begins to die and becomes life threatening, they will reevaluate and operate. Until then I wait for another attack, and hope the pain killers work.
So the '39 is on hold, and I'm sitting here bored on a liquid diet, waiting for something to happen. One good thing is after a month of doctors trying to figure out why I've lost 30 lbs., at least they know why now. Just hope this whole virus thing settles down so they can operate before another attack hits!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
04-06-20 04:00 AM - Post#2790445    

Take care of yourself,and get well soon!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






Belair-o
Contributor
Posts 138
04-06-20 04:15 AM - Post#2790446    

Prayers for your comfort, and recovery.
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-06-20 08:09 PM - Post#2790532    

Thanks guys! Hoping and praying the doctors change their status and allow the surgeries to go forward.

Until last Friday I loved seeing the mailman or the brown truck. Always fun to see the latest "Christmas present" I'd bought for the '39 show up. Now I hate them both! Just reminds me I'm on hold now, and when parts come I open them to check the part out, and then straight to the garage to pile them up.
I ordered 2"x 3" diamond pattern black naugahyde to do the interior doors and side panels, plus the package shelf. 4 yds. 54" wide, and it looks great, even sitting in the garage with the black carpet.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-07-20 01:32 PM - Post#2790572    

The sun is out, and I was feeling pretty decent today. So I told the wife I was going to the shop for a few hours. Got the brakes bled on the car, and that off center rod was the problem alright. They bled without any issues and feel great now.
I pulled the leaky thermostat housing and replaced it with a new one that came the other day. Then got my sliding 1/4 window tracks out an cleaned and lubricated them to get them working nicely. I cleaned up the openings too so I can install the C channel in those also.
Weather is supposed to be 70's Wed. and Thu., so if I keep feeling better I may get back out there and do some more little things.
Pretty tempting to take the car for a short drive around the neighborhood now! No glass, but it is fully ready to drive otherwise.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-08-20 12:55 PM - Post#2790660    

What a beautiful day! Went and got another 5 gal. of gas for the '39. Fired it up and took it around the neighborhood for it's maiden voyage. All went very smooth, and I was able to adjust the TVR cable on the 700r4 trans. Still needs a little more tweaking as it shifts a little early.
The car drove great, and the ride and steering was very nice too. Of course I never got much over about 25 mph around the side streets. But I'm happy with it so far.





Gotta see the surgeon tomorrow, and hope he's got good news too!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
04-08-20 05:09 PM - Post#2790678    

Good Luck with the surgeon. I have always liked the 39's, but of course the 47 and 48 coupes are my favorite. First car was a 47 coupe that I paid $75.00 dollars for in 1957. Drove it home. You do great work and pretty fast also.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-08-20 05:24 PM - Post#2790682    

Thanks Keith! Can't believe it's been almost exactly a year since I brought this '39 home. My first old coupe was my '40 Chev in 1968, and I always wished it was a '39 just because I didn't like the '40 grille shape. I think the '39 grille shape is one of the best designs Chevy ever came up with. But I am partial too!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
04-09-20 03:27 AM - Post#2790705    

Good work,makes me miss my '37.
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-09-20 03:43 PM - Post#2790769    

  • rcr3 Said:
Good work,makes me miss my '37.



I'd miss a '37 coupe too if I ever had one! They're beautiful cars!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-09-20 03:43 PM - Post#2790770    

Nothing but bad news from the surgeon today. He said he can't do both hernia and gallbladder surgeries together because of the chance of bile leaking from the gallbladder during the surgery, which could contaminate the hernia surgery, and cause big trouble. So likely I'll have to wait at least 2-3 weeks between the two surgeries. Gallbladder first, and hernia 2nd.
But he also said the governor's office has a hold until mid June on these surgeries, so that's going to be a long wait, and screw up summer too! Unless as he said before, it flares up again and then they'll go ahead with it regardless. So not sure if I should hope it doesn't flare up between now and mid June, or hope it does and they operate?

After getting home today I had to go spend quality time with the '39, so went out and mixed up some Duraglass to fill some spots here and there. Then while that was drying I drug out my garnish moldings to test fit before stripping them for painting. Glad I did because I found out those pesky sliding 1/4 windows had one incorrect molding! One was for the slider, and one was for a fixed window. And the two aren't even close in size or shape to each other!!
The fixed molding is 3/4" longer, and taller than the one for the slider. Only good thing about that is shortening is always easier then lengthening! Had to cut the molding into 3 pieces to get where I needed to be, and section each piece. Also had to bend the corners tighter to bring the pieces back together, and match the good molding. And there's a recess in the molding to allow room for the handle that slides the window open too!





After cutting the window into 3 pieces, I measured with my calipers and trimmed off the extra length and height. Then clamped the butted ends together with my vice grip C clamps and tacked it. Then welded the thin metal with the mig, and polished off the welds. Might need a tiny amount of filler, and once primed it will likely show the joints if I don't.



Did a test fit comparison on the good molding and it matched well. Then fit it to the window and it fit there also. I used a parting wheel to relieve the slot on the window side for the operating handle to move freely.





Fits good, so I guess I wont this battle. Never got the other molding stripped as I was too tired after a meager 4 hrs.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-10-20 01:21 PM - Post#2790836    

Gas is getting down there lately, so fired up the Austin and drove to our local gas station to fill the tank. Unfortunately it wasn't below half, so only took about 7 gal. of premium. Even premium is a bargain these days!

Got home and set up a grinding and painting area outside the shop in the beautiful sunshine! Stripped all the garnish moldings, and shot them with 2x primer. Need to get some more satin black paint to paint them all.
While the paint was drying I made up the two support struts to go from the frame to the lower fender drops to stiffen up those big fenders. The bottoms of the drops wanted to curve in before, so I made the supports long enough to push them out and make them sit straight down without the curve inwards. Hung them up and shot them gloss black at the same time. Bolted them on and the fenders are as solid as anything could be now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
04-11-20 01:40 PM - Post#2790914    

Prays your way my brother,
I just want to say words of encouragement,

GEEZ WHAT A FINE PIECE OF MACHINERY!
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
04-11-20 01:47 PM - Post#2790918    

I saw $1.61 today at HEB today,
thanks for the posts, posts like your give us the encouragement to keep moving forward,
I guess you can tell I love 37-39 Chevys!
I don't know what it is about them, maybe its that body style, but seeing the work you are doing,
sure fills the appetite.
thanks for posting!
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-11-20 06:55 PM - Post#2790934    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
Prays your way my brother,
I just want to say words of encouragement,

GEEZ WHAT A FINE PIECE OF MACHINERY!




Thanks! It's certainly helping pass the time during quarantine, and while I wait for surgery.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-13-20 12:39 PM - Post#2791062    

Went over to Old Car Parts and bought two 8 ft. lengths of stainless felt trim. A whopping $5 for 16 ft., so very affordable.
Putting the felt/stainless steel rub trim around the windows. Easy on the doors as it's just straight strips cut to length and screwed to the lower door molding. But the 1/4 windows with their tight turns were fun to bend!
I started out on my B&D Workmate and a piece of 2.5" exhaust tubing to bend around. But the felt strips wanted to curve up as they bent, and wouldn't lay flat. So instead I started carefully bending them by hand while trying to hold them flat, which worked much better! Surprising to me that they could bend by hand. I did notice that the wire inside the exposed SS side grows as you bend internal corners, but the felt portion shrinks. So by the time you make a few bends the wire has extended out the end a couple inches easily. Had to make sure I left enough extra to cut the ends where I wanted them to end with bent pieces.
Once I got the fuzzy felt trim bent to shape I drilled them with a #40 drill bit, and secured them every 4"-5" with stainless flathead #4 wood screws. The heads pull down into the felt very nicely, and no chance the glass will contact the screw head.



This is the straight piece on the doors, where you can see the screw head pulled down into the trim.



Only took a couple hours, and was actually easier than I thought it would be.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-14-20 03:19 PM - Post#2791157    

Got the felt sweeps bent up for the body side of the 1/4 window openings today. With the experience of doing the moldings yesterday, the bending went even faster today, and doing so by hand is still the way to go. But I did run into issues attaching the felt strips to the body. Since the mounting lip is recessed I broke 3 tiny drill bits when the drill poked through, and I bumped the window frames. A bit irritating, and ate my my supply of drill bits pretty fast. Had to drill the last couple holes with the 1.25" long broken stub of a bit to finish the mounting. But got all of it done.
I test fitted all the moldings, and just left them with a few screws in each for now. Have an order for chrome trim screws headed my way, and once I get the glass installed I'll finish them.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-16-20 02:35 PM - Post#2791309    

I backed the '39 outside today to accomplish two tasks. First I needed to fix my garage flooring system. It seems it's too flexible as it was rippling up as I drove into the shop the other day, creating big waves in it, and irritating the heck out of me. Might be the warm weather? So I got the car outside and using anchors, and 1/4" fender washers I anchored the crap out of it every couple feet in every direction. Seems to have secured it as it stayed flat when I put the '39 back inside.
I also wanted to sand some of the filler, and apply some more too. I got that done, so a tiny bit closer on the bodywork. And I wanted the doors wide open as the bottom side of the roof gutters above the doors needed a thin coat of Pro Gold filler to get them smooth.
Before I put it back inside I drilled and pinned my gas pedal. It's a polished aluminum I put in and the set screws wont hold it from slipping. So I set it where I like it, and drilled clear through the arm and shaft to install a roll pin. Wont be adjustable anymore, but darn sure wont slip.
Took it for another test drive around the block since I shortened the TVR cable and it's shifting where I want now. Pretty snappy 1-2 shift that gets your attention under power! While cruising around the block I came face to face with a city police car. Me with no windshield, and it didn't register what he was at first. Then as I passed we locked eyes. I figured I was doomed as I saw his brake lights come on, so I turned the next corner and headed home quickly. Never saw him again, so maybe he had better things to do?

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-17-20 03:17 PM - Post#2791398    

Tinkering around today on little things since I can't get any help installing glass yet. Cleaned up the wing window channels and did get both wing window glass installed. Then wired in my dome light and tested it.
After that I got out my weatherstrip for the trunk and installed it. It really makes the trunk lid tough to latch, but hopefully once it sits closed it will seat in and be easier later to latch.
Grabbed all 4 of my window and wing window cranks and cut the knobs off them. They're stuck and I got repair kits from a friend who sells United Pacific, and they somehow had the kits. After cutting the knobs off I drilled the shafts out and then polished the old handles on my buffing wheel to try to make them more presentable. They came out good enough, so I installed the new knob kits. I also got bezels to go under the cranks to trim them out. Found some late 30's Ford pieces, and used a big unibit to open up the center hole and make them fit the Chevy cranks.
Dug out my rear view mirror and center bar for the windshield. Cleaned and sanded both and painted satin black to match the moldings.
Hope I can get a chance to go to Lowes or Home Depot to grab a couple sheets of ABS to cover with my diamond pattern upholstery material. Would like to build panels and cover them soon, just for something else to do.
Short 4 hours, but got enough done today.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-21-20 05:51 AM - Post#2791675    

Started final bodywork yesterday, which I always put off simply because it's hard to do, and back breaking sanding all day. I began on my rear fenders to get them smoothed out. But a neighbor I do car stuff with was walking the dog and saw the shop open, so stopped by to visit.
After a few minutes he asked if I needed any metal shelving? Of course I did, and he told me another neighbor had a nice set sitting on the curb for free! So I jumped in my old Suburban and drove down the street to look. The shelving was huge! 7 ft. tall, and 4 ft. wide, with enough shelves to have a shelf every 10" or so! I loaded it all in the truck, and hauled it home.
At this point car work stopped and I began rearranging the clutter in the front of the shop to make room for the heavy duty shelving. First off I had to get the portaband and cut the uprights off, as it was way too tall to even consider anything on that top shelf of use. Trimmed it down to just over 6 ft. and assembled it with 6 of the 10 shelves. Using one right on the bottom, and another at the top. Then spacing the other 4 throughout the uprights.
Once I got it built up, and inside the shop, I screwed it to the wall for safety, and began loading it up with tools and materials. Amazing what I had sitting along the walls not on a shelf that needed to be stored better. I gained a lot of space in my tiny shop, which is at a premium all the time!
And I did eventually get two fenders roughed in, and ready for fine sanding. So a good day in the end.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-21-20 12:03 PM - Post#2791709    

I think my window tint is too dark? I figured before I got too far along I better cut filler panels to tape over the window openings and try to keep most of the dust out.




Cut a coupe panels for the engine bay also to help keep it cleaner.



The rear fenders I did yesterday.



Got the hood nose that I had to build up to fix the flat spot also sanded and primed.



And both roof joints sanded and primed.



Once I have the doors and 1/4 panels done I'll get out the 2k primer and shoot the whole car in high build so I can block it out.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
04-22-20 04:11 AM - Post#2791744    

Lots of nice work there!

Keep at it!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-23-20 06:54 AM - Post#2791853    

  • rcr3 Said:
Lots of nice work there!

Keep at it!



Thanks! This is the part I like the least. I am not a big fan of all the sanding work, but it is nice once it's finished.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-23-20 02:04 PM - Post#2791897    


I wish I was better at this bodywork!
It seems I sand about 75% of all the filler I apply off the car. I have been using Pro Gold skim coat filler for final skimming of the various areas I repaired, and I am not applying much. But then I hit it with the long board and most of it ends up on the floor.
I use a work light to inspect the sanded filler, and always find something I'm not 100% happy with, so I apply another skim coat, and repeat the sanding. Just seems like for every application I'm getting slightly better finish, but still not exactly what I want yet. I left it today with another coat everywhere I saw minor imperfections, and hope I wont need another, or at least not much more!
My satin black paint arrived yesterday, and I already have the high build primer. Kinda hoping if I get close enough the high build primer will cover minor imperfections that I'm chasing now, and I can then shoot the satin black.

On a brighter note, our idiot governor announced today she's opening up elective surgeries May 1st! I called my doctor to get my surgery scheduled for the bad gallbladder, but they're waiting for the hospital to also give the go ahead before they schedule me. But they did say my case puts me at the top of the list to go first.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
04-24-20 02:34 PM - Post#2791997    

Before heading out for another day of sanding, I was snooping around the internet looking at various Youtube bodywork videos for tips that might help me save some work. I ran across this video for Dolphin self leveling glazing putty. It looks like something I could put to use towards the very end of the bodywork to get closer to perfect then.
I was really surprised when the guy put a thin coat on construction paper, and let it dry. Then wrapped the paper around a spray can and it didn't crack being bent that much! I ordered a bag of it to use later for the finale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCstHX1_UiI


Got 3 or 4 more hours of sanding done today. Stuck my doors shut with Pro Gold when I went over the gaps yesterday, and had to cut the gaps open with a hacksaw blade in my jab saw so I could open them up! No big deal, and once sanded the gaps sure look better now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
04-26-20 02:41 PM - Post#2792160    

Had another gallbladder attack yesterday, so spent the day in a chair recovering. And I finally broke down and took one of the oxycodone they prescribed, which stopped the pain, but left me puking the rest of the day. Not sure which was worse? But got back to work today, and feeling normal again.

Thought I might be getting closer to done on the doors today, so got out the dark primer and sprayed a mist over the doors. It revealed how bad they were, and I had to add another coat of Pro Gold to the doors.



Got closer after that, but still not perfect yet. Hopefully one or two more spot fills and maybe it will be close enough to move down to a finer grit paper to finish sanding. And then hit the whole car with finer grit before another coat of primer.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
04-27-20 02:04 PM - Post#2792253    

I think I may finally be getting the best of those doors. I dug up some old hardwood molding I had stashed in a corner and drilled holes in it to run sheetrock screws into my 24" long board. It really helped with it having way too much flex, and allowed me to control it better. I was able to work the doors down straighter, and a quick shot of dark gray primer indicated they're getting straighter too. Still had to apply some thin spot coats to low areas, but the next sanding might be close to a point I can begin sanding with finer grit, and less shaping. I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
04-28-20 01:56 PM - Post#2792306    

Took the day off sanding today, and instead hit the Pick N Pull, face mask on and ready to find a console. Searched all the way down one row, and up the other side, and didn't find a suitable console until the last couple rows! And if I'd started down that side it would have been the first couple rows!
It will need some trimming, and cutting down to be lower, and shorter, but I think it will work. One thing I liked was the two cup holders retract out of sight, and push a button and they pop out and open up. And it was all vinyl, and no fabric, so I can spray it with black vinyl dye to make it match. Will need about 4" cut off the length, but I want it to fit up against the firewall anyway on the back end.
And I found a Pontiac Vibe that had the buckets still in it, and got the missing back panel for the buckets I already have. So that was a nice find too.

And the surgeon's office called today and I'm scheduled for gallbladder surgery May 8th. So it will be good to finally get that done!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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Keith_Knox
04-28-20 02:12 PM - Post#2792309    

Good news on the surgery.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

rcr3
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rcr3
04-29-20 11:35 AM - Post#2792372    

Good luck!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
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05-01-20 07:05 AM - Post#2792504    

Change of surgery plans. My gallbladder said it wouldn't wait Tuesday night. After throwing up for almost 6 hrs., my wife took me to ER. They gave me IV's and morphine, but nothing helped. Blood pressure readings were high enough to concern them it might cause a stroke. At 213/97 it was giving me extreme headaches along with the pain at my liver and gallbladder. So a day in the hospital, and gallbladder surgery went forward Thu. morning.
By noon I was feeling amazing, and BP back to 114/68 with no issues. They wanted me to stay another night, but quickly realized it wasn't necessary. So I came home yesterday and feeling great. Some minor soreness from the operation, but compared to the previous attacks I'm loving my present situation.
I have a 20lb. weight limit for a couple weeks, and then I can move forward with the '39 project.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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Keith_Knox
05-01-20 09:09 AM - Post#2792519    

That is great news that it is done.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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05-01-20 07:22 PM - Post#2792585    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
That is great news that it is done.



Thanks Keith! I'm tickled pink it's done! But it should never have gone this long anyway. My surgeon was not happy at what she saw when she looked at my gallbladder through her scope. She took a picture of it, and gave me a copy to see. The gallbladder that should be about 3"-4" long, and about as wide as a polish sausage, was almost as large as my liver, and 3 big red spots she said were about to burst. That would have possibly been fatal if it did burst.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-11-20 01:32 PM - Post#2793541    

Slipped out to the shop today and after cleaning up, and blowing out the dust, I began disassembling my vent windows. Surprisingly only one screw gave me any trouble in removing, and it was only because the head was rusty and the slot in bad shape. I shot all the screws with WD40 and let them sit awhile. Then put a screwdriver in the slots and gave them a sharp rap with a hammer before trying them.
Once I got both vent assemblies out, I drilled the rivets out that hold the crank operators to the frames. Then set the operators aside and cleaned up both weatherstrip frames. Shot them in gloss black, and set them aside. Then wire brushed and cleaned the door frames where they mount, and painted both those areas with gloss black engine enamel also. None of this shows, but I wanted it all cleaned and painted so it stops future rust issues.
After the paint dried I began assembling the weatherstripping to the chrome frames around the glass. This proved to be a major PITA as you have a pivot pin top and bottom, and you have a channel 1/2" deep, and you need to get the pivot points through the holes in the weatherstrip, and get it into the channel at the same time! And the vent window needs to be open 90 degrees while you battle all this. Any plans I had to glue the weatherstrip into the channel were quickly dashed, as I could see it was impossible. Once they sit for a few days, I'll crank them open and see if I can pull areas away from the channels, and glue them before pushing them back in. At least they'll have some spots glued to hold them from just falling out. They are a very tight fit, and not sure they'll need it, but will try to.
Once I got the two vent window weatherstrips installed, it was very hard to get the windows cranked closed without some coaxing with a putty knife at top and bottom to assist holding the new weatherstrip away. I remembered I had some GM weatherstrip dresssing, so grabbed the tube and dressed the rubber, and a thin coat on the chrome channel around the glass. That did the job nicely and they closed without trying to drag the weatherstrip out of it's channel!
Took a little over 4 hours to do this job, and I thought it seemed like much longer! Just a grueling job I am glad to get done with.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-12-20 12:18 PM - Post#2793606    

Back to sanding today. Of course I'm out of "sanding shape" since I had to stop, so it will take a few days to get to where I can sand more than a couple hours.
The doors and quarters are getting very close, and a guide coat shows they appear to be straight. Now it's just some glazing or surfacing putty over little imperfections, and then more sanding. Hope to shoot the high build primer in a week or so if the weather warms up again. It's back to mid 60's, which is close, but I'd like low 70's and some calmer winds so I can open up the shop doors when I shoot the primer. Guessing a couple coats should do it.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-14-20 08:02 AM - Post#2793776    

Saw the surgeon yesterday, and got full release. But I'd already released myself anyway. Got home and began giving the '39 a once over the entire surface with 360 grit paper to prep for high build primer. Of course this involves the braille method, which ends up discovering things my eyes missed! I knew they were there before, but spaced them out. One was the chin piece I pounded a dent out of under the grille. Hard to see, but easy to feel! The other was a dent down low on one of the front fenders. It too got banged out close, and didn't show until I felt it. So both got a skim coat, and I'll get them sanded today. Friday is supposed to be 70 degrees, so I plan to shoot the high build primer then.
I got the car masked off yesterday. My previous panel fillers and the tape had to go as they weren't fitted to allow for paint work. So now it's masked closely and I can shoot the high build, and after sanding the satin black it will wear all summer.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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Keith_Knox
05-14-20 08:25 AM - Post#2793779    

Glad for the official release. Can't wait to see the finished project.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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05-14-20 01:22 PM - Post#2793792    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Glad for the official release. Can't wait to see the finished project.



Thanks Keith!

Got the last two rough spots addressed this morning, and ready for primer. Did a wipe down with degreaser, and ready for one more wipe down with tack cloth tomorrow prior to shooting high build.
I've just got a small portable air compressor in this shop, so I'll drag hose from my big upright 40 gal. compressor in the garage to run my spray gun. Figure at least two coats of high build primer, and then see if it needs a 3rd coat or not.
Supposed to be dry and 70 degrees tomorrow, so perfect for shooting paint!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-15-20 11:57 AM - Post#2793861    

Well it's all one color now, but had a few small mishaps. Of course the usual runs here and there on vertical surfaces where I either moved too slow, or got too close. But also one ugly wrinkle on top of the rear fender that looks like something was on the surface? Not sure what as I wiped it all down with a prep solvent, and again this morning with a tack cloth. But it will need to be stripped down and shot again in this small area.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
05-16-20 02:47 AM - Post#2793924    

Looking good!!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
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05-16-20 04:37 PM - Post#2793986    

  • rcr3 Said:
Looking good!!



Thanks!

Got my side windows all installed today! Actually went super easy for a change, and they fit perfectly.





My buddy who sells accessories stopped by and dropped off my side mirrors, so had to test fit them too. Right side is the convex type so I can see that side better.
Did some sanding of runs, and filled a few more little imperfections I'm still finding. Got my license plate light and bracket reconnected so I can be legal to drive it out to have the windshield installed.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
05-18-20 07:40 AM - Post#2794097    

Of course mother nature is messing with plans to get my windshield and back window installed this week! Rain predicted all week, so I'll have to switch gears and get some material to build the interior door panels, and side panels, to later be covered with material. Of course that means standing in line at Home Depot since they're limiting how many in the store! Not sure I want to do that either?

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
05-18-20 09:45 AM - Post#2794112    

I believe you can order what you want on line and then go to the store and they will bring it to your vehicle. I did that a month ago here. Of course you need to know what you are looking for so you don't have to enter the store.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-18-20 01:49 PM - Post#2794129    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
I believe you can order what you want on line and then go to the store and they will bring it to your vehicle. I did that a month ago here. Of course you need to know what you are looking for so you don't have to enter the store.



An issue for me has been checking online and it saying they have something. Then going to their store here, and none to be had. And not even on the aisle they listed it for my store!

Something must have relaxed with our state rules as no line outside Home Depot today when I got there. Walked right in and bought two sheets of panel board to make my interior panels out of.
I made paper patterns for the doors, 1/4 panels, and kick panels, and traced them on the panel board. Then cut them out with a jigsaw and drilled holes for door cranks.
Pretty quick job, and no fitment issues. I'll eventually cover them in the diamond pattern once I get the carpets in. I need to make some sort of a filler panel before I do carpet to fill in two small drops between front seats and rear floor panel. It will cover this area where the floor drops down on both sides of the driveling tunnel:



Just about 18"-20" long each, and maybe 5"-6" wide. But if I fill it the carpet will be much easier to install. So need to decide what to use, and how to install it. Doesn't need a lot of strength as nobody will be standing on it. Maybe just a piece of sheet metal all the way across, and attached to the wood covered platform, and the floor?

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
05-19-20 09:28 AM - Post#2794201    

Glad your shopping trip worked out.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-19-20 12:57 PM - Post#2794220    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Glad your shopping trip worked out.



Me too! I was getting close to running out of work without more materials!

Years ago my daughter wanted some new fangled MP3 player, stereo system, and she gave me the one in her car after they put the whiz bang one in.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-20-20 12:39 PM - Post#2794298    

Found a place in Oklahoma City that sells both original style headliners, and perforated newer style vinyl headliners. The newer style are about $100 cheaper, and will go better with my interior plan, so ordered one from him off Ebay. Had a little glitch with Ebay as I typed in "1939 Chev coupe", but in typical Ebay fashion it brought up the headliner, and after hitting the "buy" button it read, "1939-40 Ford"!!! Crap!
I called the guy and he said no problem, he'd fix it on his end and send the correct Chevy headliner.
Just need to get warmer weather to glue up my door panels and install carpet, and then install the headliner that will be here next week. Meantime I can pull out the bows and clean and paint them so they're ready to use. Thank goodness all the bows were there! I never even checked until just today!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-24-20 03:40 PM - Post#2794691    

70 degrees here today, and perfect weather for a drive, and car projects! So took the Austin on a 35 mile drive, and then when I got home I went to work on the '39 Chevy.
I cleared out the interior and sprayed black paint on all the jams and pillars, so when my headliner arrives I'm ready to install it. Then wiped down the floors, and began fitting the black carpet. It was close when I measured it, and by the time I finished all I had left was a handful of little pieces!





Next I'm going to start covering the panels I built for the divider and side panels.





Have two more 6"x 9" tri axial speakers on order for the divider panel. so will need to cut holes for those also once they arrive, and before I cover the back panel.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-26-20 03:06 PM - Post#2794915    

Sanded and fought all my bows into the loops on the new headliner. Man those are a battle to get the curved ends fed through the loops, and even worse after the first one! Got it marked up for center, and hung it from all 5 bows. The first two are just wire bows, but the last three are stamped out and screw in place at each end.





Plenty of extra material, so sure no issues worrying about whether it might be close in places! Once I got it hung I began pulling it forward, and then used 3M spray adhesive to attach it around the windshield opening, and clipped it with small clips to hold it while I worked it back to the rear window. Then glued and clipped it back there also. Worked it side to side with more glue and clips until it was smooth. The 3M glue is nice because you can pull it back off if you do so immediately, so working ripples out is easier.
Still need to steam it, but it's pretty smooth, and just some folds from shipping that need to relax a bit.



Got the interior cut to shape, and covered the kick panels in smooth black vinyl. The rest will get the diamond pattern. Reinstalled my shifter and boot, and the bucket seats too.











Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
05-26-20 03:10 PM - Post#2794917    

You are moving along. Won't be long before you will be driving it.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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05-26-20 04:39 PM - Post#2794922    

Still waiting on windshield and rear window!! Can't get anyone around here that knows how to do it, or is willing to do it. If it wasn't for this quarantine crap I'd get a couple friends over, and I'd try it myself. Doesn't look that complicated, but need a couple hands to assist.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Dave in VA
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Posts 439
Dave in VA
05-27-20 03:40 AM - Post#2794950    

So what happens if a couple of friends stop by? Do the neighbors rat you out?
"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2
2020 Blazer Premier


1971BB427
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05-27-20 07:13 AM - Post#2794973    

  • Dave in VA Said:
So what happens if a couple of friends stop by? Do the neighbors rat you out?



No, but it's finding a couple friends who aren't paranoid about the virus and quarantine orders. We've been deluged with craziness from our governor, and unfortunately it's affected some I thought were normal in ways that surprised me.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Dave in VA
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Posts 439
Dave in VA
05-27-20 01:15 PM - Post#2794997    

Our gov Northam has just required masks in public indoor spaces. He was just in Va Beach taking selfies on the boardwalk w/o a mask. Hypocrite. He's a joke and an embarrassment.
"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2
2020 Blazer Premier


1971BB427
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05-28-20 07:48 AM - Post#2795062    

He sounds much like the vast majority of politicians in the US today! Do what I say, not what I do. They are having a field day on this power trip they're granted, and doing everything in their power to keep it going as long as they can!

Yesterday I finally located a shop nearby to do the windshield glass! First available date is June 12th, and they're only about 10 blocks away!
Then two hours later I get a call from the surgeon telling me the hospital had a date open up and they have my hernia repair finally scheduled for.....June 12th.
So have to call the shop this morning and see if the other date of June 18th is still available, and change the appointment.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-29-20 08:19 AM - Post#2795171    

Having a bit of an unseasonable heatwave here, so got out early yesterday and began covering the interior door panels. The diamond stitched black vinyl needed to have all the foam padding removed from the part that warps around the back so it can glue down without interference, and not be way too thick.
It took hours to trace the panels on the back and sit in a chair with a razor blade carefully cutting the foam off everything outside of the panel outline!
Once I got it all cut away, I laid it out, and shot 3M spray adhesive on the panels and fabric, and glued them all in place. Turned all the edges over, and trimmed and fitted them to the panels.
The last 45 minutes it hit 90 degrees here, and way to hot to work, but I kept going to finish up. The panels came out really great I think. The diamond material is nicely sewn, and gives the old 60's look for the interior that I wanted.
Once I get the panels mounted up I will add door pulls to the doors also. I salvaged some nice black pieces with wood/chrome trim off an older Cadillac at the wrecking yard recently. They'll look good, and make closing doors without pulling on handles a lot easier.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-29-20 02:28 PM - Post#2795199    

My covered panels, except for divider that I can't do until my last two speakers arrive.
Inside quarters:



Door panels:



Got them both installed today.





Will need to pull the handles when I get escutcheons for the handles later.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
05-31-20 03:50 PM - Post#2795341    

Darn it! I went into the shop last evening and the headliner material around the top of the back window was loose and hanging in the air! I glued it all around with 3M headliner glue, but it didn't hold. It's the only area without a tack strip, and I suspect it should have one, but no idea.
It has a tack strip along the top of the windshield opening, and I stapled and glued it there, and that held great. Asked about on the rear, but didn't get any response.
So today I came up with my own fix. I sat down in the back with a 1/8" drill bit, and a bunch of 1/8" pop rivets, and set off to drill and rivet the headliner to the metal structure around the frame. Put a rivet every few inches and twice as close in the corners.
This seems to be holding great, and once the weatherstrip is in place it will be even better! I would have simply made a tack strip, but no idea where it would mount and not interfere with the weatherstrip? No signs of where one could have been, but shop manual says the headliner gets "glued and tacked around the window", so must have had something?
Clean up day tomorrow again! Even with not bodywork, it seems to be covered in dust. Rolling it outside tomorrow, and doing a deep cleaning, which means I'll get wet as I plan to scrub the engine bay, frame rails, and everything I can reach! It all looks like 10 years of accumulated dust!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-01-20 02:01 PM - Post#2795415    

Cleanup day. Pulled the coupe into the driveway and mixed up a bucket of suds. Sprayed it off with the air hose everywhere first, and then washed it down and scrubbed with bristle brush. Lots of overspray on the newly painted frame rails, so scuffed them and shot another coat of gloss black engine enamel.
After that I remembered I forgot to install the lap belts I got, so removed the bolts on the seats and installed the belts. Cleaned up inside and out, and touched up black paint wherever. The engine survived the build without much dirt, so a quick dusting, and hose down got it looking good again.
Decided I'm just going to leave it in primer for the summer unless I find somebody who can paint it reasonably and then I'll have it done.










1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-01-20 08:36 PM - Post#2795444    

Looks great. Glad you are about done with the build.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-02-20 07:15 AM - Post#2795463    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Looks great. Glad you are about done with the build.



I've always got mixed feelings when I near the end of a build. It's great to be done, but I love most of the build process. But I'm also one who finds it tough to sit still, so I'm always looking for something else to do.

My speakers finally got delivered by UPS late yesterday, so I can cut them in, and do the last panel today. The trunk divider has been sitting here waiting on speakers to install, and finish interior.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-02-20 05:29 PM - Post#2795509    

Got the speaker system done, and the divider panel covered and installed. So interior is completed now, other than a good cleaning as usual.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-03-20 04:15 PM - Post#2795592    

Ha! Nothing to this glass installation! Got bored this afternoon and knowing I had this nifty glass suction cup tool, I thought I'd give the rear glass a try. I put the weatherstripping on the glass, but it kept falling away on the bottom. So duct taped it to the glass at bottom center to hold it. Then used 12 awg insulated electrical wire in the rubber channel as a pull cord, and sprayed soap all over the weatherstrip.
Using this suction cup tool to hold it in place, I began pulling the wire and the rubber lip pulled right over the opening! When it got to the end the window popped into place perfectly! I was surprised how quick and easy it was. Maybe a few minutes total to install it. Piece of cake. Gonna try the windshield halves next, and maybe get this all done sooner, and save $300. They wanted $125 just for the back window.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-03-20 04:51 PM - Post#2795593    

Good luck with the front ones.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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06-04-20 07:26 AM - Post#2795643    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good luck with the front ones.



Thanks Keith! Might be a few days until I try it. Have a buddy who asked me to help him swap out the rear axle in his '57 Chevy pickup. We pulled an 8.8 disc brake limited slip axle the other day at the wrecking yard. So going over tomorrow and set it up under his truck, and weld some new perches on. Then he can get his driveline reworked, and do the rest the install himself.
Maybe try the front glass by Sunday or Monday?

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-07-20 04:16 PM - Post#2795841    


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-08-20 10:53 AM - Post#2795893    

Figured you would the the front windshields in very soon. Waiting for the drive.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-08-20 02:55 PM - Post#2795909    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Figured you would the the front windshields in very soon. Waiting for the drive.




Yes, I'm a bit impatient and easily bored, so have to feed my need to keep busy.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-10-20 07:00 PM - Post#2796123    

It was touch and go today with weather! Started out raining, and kept doing it until noon or so. Then it was very warm, but humid, and cloudy. About 3 p.m the sun broke out and got gorgeous! The car guys were getting together at our pizza place and I pulled the '39 out and decided to make it my first trip! Only about 10 miles, and no freeway driving, but it drove flawless. Shift points were a little high, so I stopped and did a quick adjustment and it was perfect then.
The 700r4 shifts extremely firm on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, and gets your attention when it jumps to the next gear! And I had an opportunity to get into the throttle a bit at one point and it wont get squirrelly, but breaks the slicks loose pretty good.
Never got on the freeway, so never did have it shift into overdrive.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-13-20 10:02 AM - Post#2796313    

Had another surgery yesterday that was delayed due to corona virus restrictions earlier this year. Was supposed to get my hernia repaired, but tey postponed it because of the ban on "non essential" surgeries. And 8" of small intestine hanging out is "elective"???
Anyway, the surgery got moved up suddenly to the 12th, and it's done now. Surgeon did an outstanding job, and much better than my previous hernia repair! Feeling very little pain, and that's great! After a little healing I can get on to tidying up loose ends on the '39, and start putting miles on it also.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-13-20 04:12 PM - Post#2796320    

Good news. I had a couple of things scheduled and to cancelled also. But they are now done. Get results on Monday.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-14-20 08:37 AM - Post#2796346    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good news. I had a couple of things scheduled and to cancelled also. But they are now done. Get results on Monday.



Hope your results are good, and what you hope for!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-15-20 08:40 PM - Post#2796472    

I decided for now (and maybe forever) that I only need a driver's side windshield wiper. Rather than fool with trying to get the strange little offset chain driven wiper transmissions of my '39 working, I instead ordered a direct drive after market electric wiper motor kit.
The kit arrived today, and comes complete with stainless steel polished arm, wiper blade, motor, and diagram. It gets fed with constant 12v. and then just a simple toggle switch jumps the 12v. through the switch to a 3rd terminal. So when you turn the switch off it parks itself. It also has an on/off switch on the motor for whatever reason?
I'll need to make a pair of blank off plates for the cowl, and cut some flat pieces of inner tube to make gaskets under the plates. I'll drill the driver's side to mount the motor, and leave the passenger side with a stainless button head allen in the hole to hold the plate, and maybe use if i ever decide to do a 2nd wiper.
Looks like a nice little kit for under $50, and easier than adapting some wrecking yard parts.

And I figured out why my inside window cranks fall off when I slam the door occasionally. I went to a little shop close by that deals in 60's-70's Chevy muscle cars, and got a bag of those little wire clips for the handles. Turns out the '37-'48 Chevy cars used a different size, smaller clip! So the clips I have don't drop into the handles far enough to properly secure them. Got some in will call at Chevs of the 40's, and will go pick them up the next day or two.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-17-20 04:31 PM - Post#2796602    

Four days is about all I can handle of sitting watching the boob tube, so had to get out of the house. Could have had my door handle clips shipped to me, but good excuse to go somewhere, so I drove over to Chevs of the 40's and picked them up. Got a nifty black T shirt also, but not really for free. They charged me Wa. tax on my vent window weatherstrip, and couldn't refund me, so gave me a T shirt instead. Woopie!

I pulled my interior door handles off and put the six new escutcheons on all of them. They're slightly smaller, and will hold the handles on much better. Reset my choke and fast idle so it's lower, and turns off sooner. It cam just cranked as far closed as some idiot could crank it.
I still need to install the speedo cable, but it can wait until I'm healed up more.
Another club get together tomorrow, and another excuse to drive it!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-19-20 04:00 PM - Post#2796726    

I finally got the '39 out on the freeway today! It drove great, and when I hit about 50 mph it shifted into overdrive and the rpm's dropped down around 1800 rpm. I accelerated up to around 65 mph, and it downshifted back to 3rd, and then up to 4th when I backed off at 65 mph. So it downshifts, and upshifts great, and cruises around 2200 rpm at 65 mph.
I love the overdrive automatic, and can't wait to take a longer drive to see how she does on fuel consumption! Hoping it will be something around 18 mpg or better, but no idea for sure what to expect?

When I got home I did a quick inspection of the underside, and found a small drip at the lower radiator hose. Looks like the clamp needs to be moved slightly to get it straitened up, and then snugged down. It ran around 175-180 degrees with temps around 90 degrees today.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-19-20 04:26 PM - Post#2796729    

Sounds like a good drive.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-20-20 05:39 PM - Post#2796808    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Sounds like a good drive.



Probably as good as these can get. I sure enjoyed cruising at freeway speeds with the 2100 rpm engine speed! What a treat that OD trans is!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-21-20 03:16 PM - Post#2796868    

After our father's day breakfast we headed home before noon, and I tackled a couple small check list items. First the replacement gas pedal, as it was going to be the most work. Bolt pattern matched the old pedal, but the arm length didn't. So had to move the pedal up about 3/8". Luckily a pair of fender washers on either side of the firewall covered the old holes, and left it looking like it was always there. The old gas pedal was a used aluminum spoon pedal that unfortunately was constantly slipping. The new is a chrome plated steel, and seems extremely solid.
Then I laid out for another big hole to run the speedometer cable end through. I was able to hide the exit low on the cowl where the firewall is hidden behind a support, and wouldn't show the hole. Got it done, and the cable connected on both ends. Then cut a piece of heater hose and wrapped the cable until the hose was tight in the hole. Sealed with some black RTV, and laid the carpet back down with some more adhesive.
I'll get a lighter receptacle next and wire it under the dash. Then I can plug in my GPS to double check the speedometer accuracy, and also have the lighter receptacle later to charge a cell phone or whatever.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-22-20 02:23 PM - Post#2796931    

You know how when a car is new, or newly driving, every little thing freaks you out?

Had to run an errand today, so a 45 mile round trip on the freeway in the '39 was in order. About halfway there I'm enjoying the ride when suddenly drops of wet liquid begin to splatter the windshield! It's a clear blue sky, so I panicked and pulled over. Got out and checked everything, but no sign of a leak. There was a garbage truck ahead of me, and I think these drips of liquid were dripping out his tail end!
Scared the crap out of me, but the car was running 170 degrees, and no issues or drips. I finished my run, and on the way home stopped at Old Car Parts to show where all the parts they sold me went. Joe was tickled to see the '39 as he's a big '39 Chevy fan.
After I got home I touched up some gloss black under the car's frame that had primer over spray, and then painted and installed my armrests. Wanted to keep going, but it started getting too hot so I wussed out and went indoors.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
06-23-20 02:44 AM - Post#2796969    

Sounds like you're enjoying the car!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
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1971BB427
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06-23-20 01:39 PM - Post#2797033    

  • rcr3 Said:
Sounds like you're enjoying the car!



Yes, I love when I get a car build to this point where I can drive it, and continue to make improvements. I'm able to tackle a couple things each day, and keep driving at the same time.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-25-20 06:48 AM - Post#2797151    

Had a almost catastrophic failure Tuesday! Was driving out to meet friends for a car get together when suddenly there was smoke everywhere! It was 92 degrees and I had every window, and the cowl vent open, so it instantly filled the cab with smoke too! I killed the engine, and coasted into a parking lot, which luckily was right there when this happened.
Got out of the coupe and saw oil everywhere! All over both front fenders, and down the sides of the car. A huge puddle immediately formed from oil dripping off the engine bay, and looking to the street Is aw a trail for probably 50 ft. left behind. I began looking to see where all the oil came from when it suddenly caught fire on the driver's side header! Fortunately not enough oil to burn long, and it didn't ignite other oil around it. After a few seconds of panic on my part it went out.
I couldn't tell right off where the oil came from, but when I got to the passenger side I saw the oil gauge line hanging free from the engine! It had simply slipped out of the compression fitting, and that let the oil pump push oil everywhere. I reached in and felt the plastic line and it was like a wet noodle! Just limp, and so soft it's no wonder it failed and popped out.
After a tow home, I mixed up degreaser and washed the whole car outside twice. Then did the same for the engine bay also. Luckily my air cleaner is a washable element, so I did the normal cleaning, and recharge on the filter. Spent most of yesterday cleaning further, under the hood, and underneath the car too. I'm sure I'll never get it all oil free, but did get it as good as possible.
I went to the auto parts store and bought a copper gauge line kit, and replaced the plastic line. Even the next day when that line was cold, it still felt like a wet noodle. It appears the line is defective, as it was very hard when I installed it, and once hot oil was in it, it seems to have caused it to become soft.
The copper line may be temporary also, as I'm considering switching to an electric gauge with sending unit to avoid any lines at all. Just don't want this situation to ever happen again! Thank God it was only a huge mess, and didn't lose the engine or the whole car!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
06-25-20 07:15 AM - Post#2797152    

Glad to hear things ended up ok. I am sure my heart would be racing if that happened. This also got me thinking as my line for the oil gauge is plastic but put it in some time ago. I will do a thorough inspection so thanks for sharing. Also I really enjoy reading your thread. You are a very talented guy.
Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-25-20 09:06 AM - Post#2797162    

Wow, close call. Glad it didn't do to much damage. Do you have a fire extinguisher in the car? I carry on in all of mine.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-25-20 04:10 PM - Post#2797195    

  • 19Chevy50 Said:
Glad to hear things ended up ok. I am sure my heart would be racing if that happened. This also got me thinking as my line for the oil gauge is plastic but put it in some time ago. I will do a thorough inspection so thanks for sharing. Also I really enjoy reading your thread. You are a very talented guy.



Thank you! I also have plastic on my two other cars, and will be checking them to see if the plastic is still fairly rigid. But still plan to switch both of them to copper just because I'm concerned now.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-25-20 04:20 PM - Post#2797196    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Wow, close call. Glad it didn't do to much damage. Do you have a fire extinguisher in the car? I carry on in all of mine.



I have always put a fire extinguisher in every car also, but had not gotten one in the '39 yet. But it has one now! I picked up a new Kidde extinguisher when I got the line kit, and mounted it in the trunk where it's out of the way, but easy to grab. Better late than never I guess.

I took the '39 out today to burn off the film of oil on the tail pipes. I cleaned and cleaned, but seems some areas it just permeated, and wouldn't ever not feel a bit oily.
I was low on gas, so grabbed my 2 gal. gas can so I could see how much gas was left when the car stopped running. It coughed to a stop, and I dumped the 2 gal. into the tank, and headed to the gas station to fill it. I got to 9.7 gal. and it shut off. Had it very close to the fill neck, and might get another .3 gal., but not much more.
When I ordered this tank last August I was told it was a 15.5 gal. fuel cell, so I'm irritated it's only 12 gal. I can't do anything about it now, as it's too late to get the seller to return it, and too much work to replace anyway. But I really wanted a good sized tank, and this "15.5 gallon" was just the size to fit between frame rails, and also locate under the trunk floor. Now any long trips will take more fuel stops and I need to be more aware of mileage, and where the next gas station is.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-26-20 02:35 PM - Post#2797255    

Got out early today to tackle some small things. I built a set of inside and outside plates to cover my wiper holes, and the driver's side gets a wiper motor below it. Passenger side will have a stainless button head allen to hold that plate in. I made up leads for the wiper motor, and marked the shaft length. Tore the motor apart and shortened the threaded shaft, and the stainless wiper arm shaft. Had a hole in the dash right behind the wiper motor, so opened it up and installed a toggle switch there to operate the motor. I will leave the wiper arm off, so it stays in good shape, and simply install it if I get caught in the rain.
About the time I finished the wiper motor, the mailman showed up with my steering wheel adapter, so I ran and got my new 15" 3 spoke wheel, and took the big 18" Pontiac wheel off. I like the looks of the Pontiac wheel, but it's just way too big, and feels like I'm driving a big truck. So the new wheel looks good, and feels great. It got a slightly oversized grip. so it fills my big hands well. I got a satin black spoke, and a chrome horn cap, which makes less bling, but looks good to me.
And the mailman was really good to me, as he brought my new locking trunk handle too! It was a quick install as it took the same holes as the '34 Chrysler handle I had, but I had to disassemble all the mechanism behind it to get to the nuts inside. Nice shiny chrome T handle, and now I wont worry about what's in the trunk when I'm not around the car.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-26-20 06:34 PM - Post#2797271    

Looks good.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
06-26-20 07:07 PM - Post#2797273    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Looks good.



Thanks Keith!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-29-20 01:54 PM - Post#2797462    

Figured out my gas gauge issue the other day, and contacted the seller to exchange the gauge. I ordered a 0-90 ohm, and they sent me a 90-0 ohm, thus causing the reverse reading. Got the new gauge today, and got it installed.
I also ordered some thin black foam rubber mat in a 4'x 5' size to put down in the trunk over the floor. I plan to get more black carpet from Home Depot, but want this under the carpet to deaden the noise, but not be slick like the foil back sound deadener is. I wont be gluing the carpet in the trunk, so this will keep it from slipping around also. I'll glue the carpet on the box I built to cover wiring, and vent lines, but leave it removable on the trunk floor.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-02-20 04:59 PM - Post#2797753    

My wife decided she wanted to help out on the build, so she sewed up covers for the ratty sun visors. She still needs to do the final sewing to close off the end, but they fit well, and look good. The picture makes them look lighter from the flash, but they're very black in reality.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
07-03-20 04:13 AM - Post#2797773    

Nice job!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
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Posts 501
07-03-20 06:39 AM - Post#2797783    

Thanks! Still have to apply the tin layer of dense foam to the visors, and then slip the covering back on so she can do the final stitch to close them off.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-03-20 03:48 PM - Post#2797819    

Wife finished up my sun visors, and I installed them this morning. They look great, and work nicely!
Then I decided to tackle a job I've been putting off for awhile. The '39 rides pretty stiff, and I planned to remove some leafs up front. Always a guessing game as to how many, and how it will affect the stance. So I decided to go big, and took 3 of the 5 leafs out, but the shortest 3 leafs. That is a total of 3/4" off the stance, and with less spring rate I figured I'd lose another 3/4"-1" on top of that.
So I set about to remove the 3 leafs, and build a spacer block to adjust for the loss. I had plenty of extra length on the U bolts, so I used heavy wall 2"x 2" box tubing, and cut it 5" long. I drilled a hole at center, and opened one side up to 3/8" and the other side up to 9/16" I bolted a stainless steel 3/8" allen bolt in the 3/8" hole to be the alignment pin. The other fits over the 3/8" pin on my springs. Before installing the spacers I cut 2"x 2" plates to weld over the ends of the box tubing to make it stronger, and make it look like a solid block.
Bolted it all together, and lowered the car down on the ground. My before and after measurements were 1/2' difference, and that's 1/2" higher. So it appears my seat of the pants guess on the spacer was as close as I could guesstimate. Love when I get lucky!
Took it for a ride, and even with only two long leafs, the ride is still firm, but not nearly as hard as it was before. Glad to get this mod done, and it actually was a lot easier, and quicker than I thought it would be!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-06-20 02:33 PM - Post#2798062    

Took a look into installing the electric door locks on the '39 today, and just stuffed them back in the bag for now. Where they attach to the locking mechanism is nearly impossible to access, and if I pull it all out to add the clamp from the kit, I'm unsure how to determine where to clamp it to ensure I can still have the solenoid sitting where it needs to go. So I shelved it for now.

I decided I had enough miles to spend some time going over all the front suspension bolts. Most are grade 8 with locking nuts, so not much that can work loose, but I also had some grade 5 bolts that came with new parts, and wanted to change those out to grade 8.
The Speedway disc brake kit had two 7/16NF locking nuts missing, and I forgot I never replaced those. When I saw they were still regular nuts I got grade 8 locknuts, and figured I'd replace them today. They hold the tierod brackets to the spindles, so pretty important!
When I went to remove the nuts today they had backed off a good 1/8" from tight!! I was shocked to see this, and checked the other bolt that had a locking nut, and they were still tight. But I've had a little bit of "wandering" in my steering, and I bet this was the case. I replaced the nuts with the grade 8 locknuts, and put blue Loctite on all 4 nuts also, just for extra security!
I also replaced all the 1/2NF U bolt nuts for the springs with grade 8 nuts, and Loctited them too. Never seen U bolts with grade 5 nuts before, and didn't like the looks of them for such a critical fastener.
So with everything checked, tightened, Loctied, and changed; I took it for a short spin. The steering is noticeably crisper, and more precise, with no wandering going down the freeway. So I'm glad I took time to check everything after a few hundred miles!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
07-06-20 06:21 PM - Post#2798082    

Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
07-06-20 08:33 PM - Post#2798094    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.



I've always done it, and rarely find anything. But one incident like this makes me sure it should always be done on critical parts like suspension/steering.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-11-20 03:42 PM - Post#2798463    

Been having issues with my fuel cell QD filler cap. Sometimes I wrestle with it for several minutes at the pump before I get it off. I finally got irritated enough to order a different filler with a 45 degree neck, and pipe thread billet aluminum cap. It arrived this morning, so figured I'd see what it took to replace the old cap. 12 bolts on the outside, with a ring on the inside that hols the 12 nuts. Fun!
Easy to remove, and once I got to the last bolt I reached inside with my fingers to hold the ring as I removed the last bolt. It's a split ring, so I pulled it out to match it to the new filler, and all was good. Then I thought, "How do I hold the ring below, with a 1.25" filler neck on top?"
No way to reach down the neck to hold it! I started one bolt with the new neck turned to one side, but when I tried to swivel it into place the ring moved too! Fought it for awhile, an then decided to bend up two pieces of iron tie wire to make hooks on each end that I'd use to hold the ring up while assembling the filler. I slid the gasket over the wires, and then the plate one wire at a time. Pulled the ring up, and held it with the wires in one hand as I started bolts with the other. A juggling act, and I kept thinking if I dropped it I'd be fishing it out of the fuel cell with my bare hands! Fortunately after a fair amount of struggling, and some cussing, I was able to get some screws started. Then I pulled hard on the iron wire to straighten it out and pull if free of the two holes.
While the filler was out I bent the float arm up too, so it wont have over half a tank when it reads empty! Had to guess what it needed, so hope it leaves me a few gallons when it hits empty, instead of 7 gallons at empty!
And a bonus of changing the filler, (besides easily filling gas!) is I can fill gas right up to the top of the tank now. The filler is about 4" tall, so wont shut the pump off before the tank is full.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-13-20 12:51 PM - Post#2798608    

I was invited to meet with a car club this morning, by a friend who knows me and the previous owner of my '39 Chev coupe. He told Ed he had a "surprise" for him, and to be sure he made it to breakfast today. Drove out to meet the guys, and Ed showed up late, so didn't get to see his reaction outside, but did see it inside. He was grinning when he saw me, and after saying hello he told me he was tickled to see his old '39 on the road, and done up in gasser style. He added that he was glad somebody got it who followed through with it, as he'd never have gotten it done himself. Another guy asked if he wanted his '39 back, but Ed said it was in good hands, and he couldn't afford it now.
Ed is an old Bonneville racer who runs a '51 Chevy with a 301 straight six, and a lot of other work done to it. It runs 127 mph on the salt, and he's hoping to get it to 130 mph club the next trip down. He spun it out last year at over 100 mph when the clutch began to slip, and thinks it could be close to going 130. But he said the salt is literally eating the car away! In just 6 years of running it there, the fenders, brackets, frame, and most metal parts are falling apart. Even with a pressure washing each time he gets home, it still eats everything up!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-15-20 01:45 PM - Post#2798808    

Took quite a long time, but finally got my replacement windshield half for my '39 Chev coupe. I guess the virus has caused a huge number of people to work on their cars, so the glass guys are swamped.
I asked for the glass to be undersized, since the last one was so tight it barely went in, which caused a stress crack later. Unfortunately all they did was make the width 1/8" shorter, but didn't adjust top to bottom width. So once I overlaid the new glass on the old, I decided I needed to modify something, or figure out how to shrink the glass.
Since sanding or grinding the glass without some sort of water cooled sander would likely have fatal results, I decided to modify the weatherstrip seal. I carefully pulled the lip back a couple inches at a time, and using my belt sander with a new 80 grit belt, I worked my way around the perimeter until I;d "shaved" the outside down a bit over 1/16" all over to reduce the total 1/8".
After that I did the same soapy water spray on the weatherstrip, and with my pull line I pushed and worked the lip over the metal. Unlike the last time, the glass went in tightly, but I didn't need to pull it in the last bit with the garnish molding.
I used my glass suction cups attached to the two halves to bump the halves left and right to ensure I got a decent gap between the glass, and away from the center strip retaining screws.

It took a couple hours, but a lot of that was setup, and cleanup afterwards. Way better than the 4.5 hrs. it took the last go around!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-16-20 07:37 AM - Post#2798884    

Called the glass supplier to give him an update on the new glass. He'd asked me to let him know, and tell him the results; good or bad. Well it went badly right away!
I started by telling him I got the glass in, and all was well. Just didn't want to start out negative. Then I told him the glass he said would be "slightly smaller" wasn't smaller in height. He told me he never said it would be smaller, and proceeded to tell me he had no control over the size?
I told him he had specifically told me he put a note on the order to "make the glass slightly smaller length and width", but he said that was incorrect, and he had simply asked them to "compare their glass, and see if any were smaller".
So I tried to explain I was simply offering up my results, since he'd asked for feedback, but he exploded and went into a 5 minute rant that left me speechless, and confused. At a couple points into his rant I tried to slow him down and explain this, but he cut me off and refused to listen.
I finally just hung up the phone, and sat there bewildered at what had happened. Then my home phone rings and it's him calling that number to continue his tirade. After a couple more minutes he suddenly stops, and changes gears; telling me if I ever have any questions, concerns, or anything to do with auto glass, give him a call.
I was again speechless, and just hung up without replying. It was the most bizarre interaction with a parts supplier/owner I've ever had?
I did a search of reviews for his business, and found 7 reviews. One was good, and the others were all very similar to my experience. I should have done this before ordering glass from him, but at least I didn't feel alone once I saw others had similar experiences. Glad it's over, and I wont ever need to deal with him again.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
07-16-20 05:17 PM - Post#2798915    

Sounds like he is never wrong.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
07-17-20 07:12 AM - Post#2798943    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Sounds like he is never wrong.



I think you're right Keith.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-17-20 02:10 PM - Post#2798964    

Worked on more casualties of the oil gauge line mess this morning. When I was under the car cleaning I noticed the parts I'd painted with Duplicolor Chrome paint were sticky to the touch! And if I held my hand to those parts it came off on my hands!
I thought I'd give it a chance to dry, or harden again, but it never did. I had painted my drag link, tierod, and shocks using this paint, so they had to come off to strip it. I tried various solvents, but all they did was make a mess and not totally remove it. So I finally just used the wire wheel on my grinder and it stripped the paint off quickly.
After stripping the parts I wiped them down and dried them. Then checked to be sure they weren't sticky. Shot them with primer sealer, and then a coat of VHT mag wheel paint. I had that on the axle, and it didn't react to the oil at all, so I knew it was good.
Got the parts shot, and finished wiping down under the car. Reinstalled the freshly painted parts, and Loctited everything too. Looks less bright, but I like the metallic graphite color.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-28-20 04:26 PM - Post#2799795    

Went to a cruise up north Friday night. On the way home got stuck in traffic and the temperature went up well above the usual 180 degrees. At around 200 degrees I pulled over to check, and the electric fan wasn't running. Unplugged the sensor and grounded the wire and the fan relay pulled in and worked. So I grabbed my tool bag and temped the wire to a ground to make it run full time. Temp came down and it was fine then.
I ordered a new sensor that doesn't hook into the cooling system, but has a probe that mounts on the backside of the radiator. It's also adjustable, so I can select when it closes the contacts. Installed it today, and started the engine up. Then once it got to 170 degrees I turned the stat until the fan came on, and left it there.
Also pulled the valve covers and readjusted the lash. Had a couple valves too tight, and had a full turn more than they needed. Did the 500 mile oil change, and filter, and cut the filter open to inspect things. All looks good, so just drive a lot, and enjoy it until winter when I'll restart bodywork.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-29-20 12:20 PM - Post#2799851    

Nothing really new, but a friend sent me an old picture he took seven years ago at the Billetproof Drags in Toutle, Wa. My first trip to that race, and the first run I made they staged me up against the "Evil Twin" rail. A twin SBC powered rail, and to say I was intimidated would be an understatement. I kept telling myself to just not embarrass myself! Unfortunately that didn't help, as I fell asleep at the starting line trying not to red light. But The Evil Twin was already taking off in a cloud of tire smoke when I finally launched, and I caught his quickly. Then about the time I thought I had a good lead, and was going to win, he came barreling past me and beat me by a couple car lengths! It was still fun!



Think I better get the old Austin out soon, as I haven't driven it since the '39 got road worthy.
Sounds like the Billetproof drags may be cancelled next month! I had planned to run the '39 there this year, but now it's likely I wont be running anything there!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
07-29-20 06:46 PM - Post#2799891    

Good you could hotwire it.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
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Posts 501
07-30-20 08:11 AM - Post#2799918    

I like to run my controls on fans using the ground wire as the closing circuit across the contacts just for this reason. It's usually much easier to troubleshoot or do an emergency repair when switching the ground wires.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-02-20 12:16 PM - Post#2800150    

Going to try my hand at something new. Considering the prices of upholstery work these days I decided to look around at used commercial sewing machines. I found a guy on Craigslist who overhauls them and he told me he didn't have one done yet, but would by this weekend. He called me yesterday and I went over this morning and looked at what he had.
It's an older 1950's Japanese copy of the Singer Commercial machine, and it beautiful condition. I took along my naugahyde and diamond pattern remnants and had him stitch them together to ensure the machine would handle them. He laughed when I showed them to him, but ran them right through the machine without any issue. Then he grabbed two pieces of heavy leather belt, and laid them on top of each other and stitched those together with no problem either.
I was impressed, and at a fraction of the cost of upholstering my seats, I figure I'll give it a try. He gave me extra bobbins, and assortment of needles. He also asked me if I had a stand, and when I said I'd make a table, he told me to take the stand it was sitting on too! It's got a side table, 4 drawers, and a foot and knee switch too!

So now I just have to strip the upholstery off my seats to make patterns, and sew up the diamond pattern, with some smooth black naugahyde for the bolsters. And then get it all back on without making a bunch of wrinkles!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-03-20 01:14 PM - Post#2800222    

After a couple hours of figuring out all the screws, clips etc. I got the plastic covers off, and then pulled a few dozen hog rings to get the covers off too!





Hope I remember where all these pieces went, and how they reattach!

The foam is great since the seats are fairly new, so nothing needed there.





Once I get the passenger side seat cover inserts removed and get a pattern off the inserts, I'll make two of everything so I can just take the driver's side apart, and use the second set to do that seat. The factory really sewed the material close to edge, so I don't have much room to stitch to! Hoping I can go slow while stitching and not drift off the tiny 1/4" seam they left!
Lots of wire rods everywhere to hog ring them down to the foam to keep them tight, and contoured well. Those will be fun to get back together, and keep smoothed out!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

41wildthing
Poster
Posts 62
41wildthing
08-03-20 04:29 PM - Post#2800239    

I hope you got a walking foot and a servo motor powered machine. As well as a reverse lever so the machine can sew backwards. That is how you lock the stich into the fabric. You probably are aware of that since your wife knows how to sew. Good luck......Phil
The only guarantee I can give you is I can"t give you any guarantees

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-04-20 11:16 AM - Post#2800295    

No walking foot, and when this machine was built I don't think they existed? And no reverse, so I simply left the needle through the material and raised the foot. Then turned it 180 degrees, and went back over the ends to lock it down.

Wont say it is easy, but it is easy to get confused! Thanks goodness I put apha-numerical numbers and letters around the edge to help me later keep thing oriented correctly, and aligned correctly too! Without my reference points, and notes where loops for wires were, I'd have really screwed them up! Even with them I had to look at them awhile to figure out how the new panels I made went in!
But I got one set sewed up for the toughest seat, the passenger side. It has more functions to allow it to fold farther, plus the insert on the seat back that I believe can be used as a tray by the driver? Anyhow, here's the first pair of covers done.



And backside with my reference points marked out in felt pen.



It was actually fun to sew the covers, and didn't take but a couple hours to do them. Hope they fit back on now!
I'll wait until later to set the covers out in the sun to warm and soften them, and then I'll stretch them over the foam and hog ring it all down. Still waiting for my hog rings and tool to arrive so I can move on to that step.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
08-04-20 12:29 PM - Post#2800300    

One more item to add to your resume.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-04-20 01:37 PM - Post#2800305    

If I could just paint without so many runs I could finish this coupe!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
08-05-20 02:26 AM - Post#2800348    

Wow!! they look great!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-05-20 06:43 AM - Post#2800362    

  • rcr3 Said:
Wow!! they look great!



Thanks! Have to go buy a hog ring plier today as I had one 20 years ago, and probably tossed it eventually. So once I get a replacement I'll reassemble the passenger seat and then pull the driver's seat apart.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-05-20 12:55 PM - Post#2800384    

Had a little "oops" today. But it wasn't a tough fix.
Got out this morning before the shop got hot and fitted the backrest material, and it was too big. I had a good 1"-1.5" extra between the bolsters. Checked the base and same thing. So ripped out the seams and back to the sewing machine. At least too big is fixable with just time, and didn't need to toss the material.
Got it cut down and stitched back together, and it fit much better. Reassembled the passenger seat, and installed it back in the car. Then unbolted the driver's seat.
I thought the driver's seat would be easier, but there's no provision to even separate the seat back from the base!! So it was a wrestling match to get the material pulled back enough to cut hog rings, and then I had to slide the foam off the frame to be able to finish getting the material off the foam. Way less wire inserts to hog ring on the driver's seat, but it's definitely not going to be easier to reinstall.
I removed the seams, and laid the panels over my templates. The base is the same, but backrest is different because it doesn't have the hard plastic panel. I got lucky as I cut the patterns slightly large, and it was just enough to have what I needed for the longer panel. If I had to I could have spliced it at the loop on the back, and it would look the same, but didn't need to.
Supposed to cool down and rain tomorrow, so I'll wait until then to sew up the upholstery, and reassemble the seat. Get some pictures once they're both back in the car. I do like the combination of smooth bolsters, and diamond pattern inserts though. Just enough diamond to get rid of the cigarette burns, and also tie the seats in with the doors.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-06-20 11:04 AM - Post#2800449    

Got the 2nd seat upholstery sewed up, and managed to stay on my lines this time, so no redo on this one. Then got it back on the frame after some wrestling. Of course whenever I think I got the toughest half done, I always find out it wasn't, and the 2nd one was tougher. It require me to remove the foam from the frames, and install the upholstery to the foam partially. Then reinstall the foam, and covering, and finish locking it down to the frames then. A lot more work, but it did go on after some coaxing. Had to reach up inside the upholstery to hook some plastic stays the factory uses to pull the fabric into the seat. Good time to have these long arms that allow my knuckles to drag the ground!
Got the seat bolted back in after the morning rains stopped, and just need to do the weatherstrip around the doors now.










1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

41wildthing
Poster
Posts 62
41wildthing
08-09-20 06:15 AM - Post#2800665    

Looks really nice and the door, quarter and rear storage/trunk divider panel came out very well.....Phil
The only guarantee I can give you is I can"t give you any guarantees

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-09-20 06:38 AM - Post#2800671    

Thanks Phil! I have a grand total of about $500 into the interior, including buying the bucket seats, and the sewing machine. So being the tightwad I am it fits into my low budget build theme.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

41wildthing
Poster
Posts 62
41wildthing
08-09-20 09:46 AM - Post#2800687    

Wow. You really got a bargain on the machine considering that you got a table with it. Does it do zigzag as well as straight stitch?......Phil
The only guarantee I can give you is I can"t give you any guarantees

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-10-20 08:04 AM - Post#2800775    

  • 41wildthing Said:
Wow. You really got a bargain on the machine considering that you got a table with it. Does it do zigzag as well as straight stitch?......Phil



Thanks. No, as I said earlier this is a 1950's sewing machine, and doesn't even have reverse. I have to leave the needle in the fabric, raise the foot, and turn the material 180 degrees to reverse the stitch.
Not sure what I'd use zigzag for on auto upholstery? But it does have a box full of extra attachments for different feet, etc., and I believe one of them is to guide material to make piping for seat edges.
I'm still learning the sewing, and the machine, but since my plans to resell changed with this machine being so cheap, I'll have plenty of tasks to try it on, and see what all it can sew.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-10-20 08:04 AM - Post#2800776    

Duplicate post. Removed

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-12-20 09:40 AM - Post#2800931    

I've been fighting an issue ever since I first fired up the SBC roller motor in my '39. I adjusted the lifters like I've always done, but soon after starting to drive the car I found some were too tight. I readjusted them, and then soon began to have some lifters ticking. So adjusted them again, and again, and soon decided something just wasn't right.
So I called up Howard's Camshafts and asked them what they recommended for oil viscosity on their roller camshafts. He told me no heavier than 10-30 wt., and 5-20 would be even better!
Well being an old fart whose never built anything but flat tappet Chevys in the past, I put my usual 20-50 wt. Valvoline Racing Oil in the engine! And I just did the first 500 mile change about 50 miles ago too! So went to the parts store and got 5-30 wt. oil, and came home and put that in it. I drained the oil filter, and refilled it with the lighter oil. Wasn't going to toss a brand new high capacity filter at 50 miles!
Started the engine up, and no lifter noise at all! Amazing! Always great to learn something new at any age, but at my age it's really great! Never dreamed heavy oil would create such issues, but the tech at Howard's said these roller lifters have tighter tolerances, and they can restrict heavy oils, which stops them from properly functioning, so lash can change as the engine is either hot or cold. He went on to tell me they can also get plugged by heavier oils, so they need the lighter weight oil to ensure they flow well, and stay clear.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
08-13-20 06:56 AM - Post#2800972    

I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-14-20 02:49 PM - Post#2801118    

Got an early start before it got too hot today. Wanted to finish up some loose ends on the interior work. I got my weatherstrip material in the mail, so installed that along the door opening edge. Pretty easy since it's self adhesive, and just needed to clean the edge and pull the tape backer off and stick it down.



Then I got the 30 ft. of windlace and began the process of installing it also. The '39 has channels it fits into from floor to top of dash, but it's not a really tight fit. So I put weatherstrip adhesive in the channel, and then doubled over the flat material along the windlace, and used a small putty knife and a hammer to tap the doubled material tightly into the channel. It went in very tightly, and the glue should hold it. For the rest of the opening I glued it again, and used the putty knife to force it up behind the metal strips that hold the headliner around the door opening. Then down the back edge I loosened the interior 1/4 panel cover and glued it in place behind it, then reinstalled the screws to tighten the panel against it.




Not sure how it's all supposed to be done, but this seemed to work, so it's done now. I just need to run the larger horizontal rubber weatherstrip along the bottom edge of the door. But the doors close so tightly now that I need to keep them closed until the weatherstrip relaxes for a day or two. Then I can go back and do that lower piece.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-31-20 02:58 PM - Post#2802433    

My valve noise came back on the 350 SBC engine. Tried adjusting the lash again, but it just wont go away. Almost sounds like a bad valve, or broken valve spring, but I doubt it's either after today.
I pulled the valve covers again, and did a compression check, and all are within 5psi of 150 psi with best around 153 psi, and lowest 148 psi. On a stone cold motor with my compression it's great. Did a bleed down test on all cylinders, but everything held fine.
Pulled the rockers off and checked all rockers, and all valve stem ends, and no issues. #6 cyl. is the culprit, so I pressurized that cylinder and pulled the valve springs to check for broken springs, but no problems there either. The next step is to pull the intake and check the roller lifters to see if anything is wrong visibly. I've got a new set of Elgin roller lifters, so regardless of what I find I'll put them in while I've got the intake off.
Baffling so far, and I actually hope I do find a lifter issue, just so I can feel better about reassembly. I did find one tiny thing that disappointed me with the machine shop that built my heads. On #6 exhaust valve I found a old cheap censored valve stem seal that was one of the single spring reddish colored seals. Intake had a nice new blue seal with double springs. I removed the cheap one and replaced it with a good one from a gasket set I had here. Have to check all the others with a flashlight, and see if I find any more he cheaped out on, and didn't use good seals on.
I'm questioning whether I got the high performance .550 high lift valve springs now. I've got a full set of .550" springs, so I'm going to pressurize each cylinder and swap out the springs regardless. Just to make sure my issue isn't spring bind that could lead to other problems later. My cam is .525" lift, which is too much if he used stock OEM type springs. Hate having to fix things I paid others to do already!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
08-31-20 04:01 PM - Post#2802439    

You will get it figured out.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
08-31-20 05:08 PM - Post#2802441    

Thanks. I'm sure I will, but hope I see something, vs. just replacing parts until it's fixed.

Some internet searches revealed some history of OEM roller lifters on SBC engines having issues similar. I'm uncertain if the lifters in it are OEM or not. The seller simply told me he replaced the lifters when he rebuilt the short block.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-01-20 11:03 AM - Post#2802492    

Engine is torn down as much as I can to this point. Got the intake off, and no visible lifter issues. Guessing maybe some debris got into one lifter causing it to not pump up. Have the new lifters soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil for a few days until my new valve springs arrive.
I did get a chance to fix a stripped thread on the intake at the thermostat housing. I had to use an over length bolt to get down to good threads before, so I drilled and tapped for a helicoil insert, and fixed that while it was off. Should have my parts Fri. or Sat. and then I can start swapping valve springs, and reassemble. I'm going to swap to steel roller tip rockers while I've got it apart also. Might as well make it a little better while I've got it this far apart.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-04-20 11:30 AM - Post#2802740    

Got out early before the heat built up in the shop, and swapped out all the valve springs for the new .550" lift springs. It was a pain to do on the car, but still better than pulling heads! I welded up a fitting from an old spark plug to adapt to a QD air fitting for my compressor hose. Charged each cylinder, and that held the valves closed as I removed and swapped springs.
I must have had the spring compressor let go a dozen times or more! The little hooks on my KD spring compressor just slip off the round coils too easy. I put a small Visegrip C clamp on the tool's hooks as I compressed springs, which helped, but didn't eliminate it totally. Still have all my fingers, and not cuts, so a success.
I ordered a set of roller tip forged steel rockers also, as I figured I'd upgrade at the same time. These are made to clear std. height valve covers, so I can keep my old Weiand valve covers still.
Got the rockers installed and adjusted, but by noon had to call it a day and close up to avoid the heat. Maybe get it finished up tomorrow, as it's supposed to be cooler then.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-06-20 10:41 AM - Post#2802890    

Those valve adjustments drove me nuts! First setting them at zero lash cold, and as soon as it got warmed up they were too tight! But I knew they were because they were barely oiling too! . Then restarted and let it get hot. After that I shut it off and checked lash again, and it was obvious the heated engine closed up the gaps, and nothing was right.

Next I adjusted them running, but that ended up with them too loose. Maybe my old ears and poor hearing? But when I shut it off many were way too loose. So while it was hot and turned off, I set them back to zero, and restarted it. Sounded awesome, so I gave them 1/8th turn preload, and put the valve covers back on.
Glad to have this behind me, and happy I was able to upgrade it a bit while fixing the noise.

It's done, and I'm glad it's fixed! No more weird noise. I'm contemplating soaking the old lifters, and seeing if I can figure out a way to hold a roller lifter and pump it, while sitting in solvent. Maybe see if anything washes out of any of them? Something for this winter when I'm bored, and need a project.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
09-07-20 08:58 AM - Post#2802934    

Glad you got it straightened out.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
09-07-20 04:00 PM - Post#2802952    

Me too Keith!
I put over 300 miles on it today, just cruising around here. Some in town, some freeway, a little of everything. It was low 90's today and it never got over 180 degrees, and purred along nicely.
I've got a 900 mile trip first weekend in October, and I'd like to take the '39 if I get more miles before then and all goes well.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-04-20 08:12 PM - Post#2804841    

Just got back a few hours ago from the '39's maiden long range voyage! Nice to see my friends after over a year, but also nice to get this many miles behind the wheel of the '39 too! Probably got at least a couple hundred extra miles as I did a big detour over past Grand Coulee dam, just because I'd never been there, plus I was having so much fun on the trip!! Totaled around 1200 miles for the trip.
The 700R4 is just the best decision ever for this car build, and the ability to cruise down the road and let the car just lope along. Lot of 60-70 mph driving, and the OD trans makes the '39 love cruising at 70-75 mph more than any hotrod I've ever owned. It just purrs along at about 2200 rpm's there, and feels better there than even a little slower 55-60mph does.
I tracked the gas pretty closely, because of the darned 12 gal. tank, and limited distance between fill ups. I ended up filling far too often, just because I feared running out. So I usually only took 7 or 8 gal. of gas, but the car averaged around 19 mpg out on the flats, and 17 mpg in the mountains where it spent more time in 3rd than OD 4th. So I could easily go 150 miles and have some reserve left. But I'll probably keep looking for a larger fuel cell that's the same length and width, but more depth to get 15 or 16 gal. capacity, so less fuel stops.
Zero problems with the car anywhere. I did have a couple really windy areas where I had side gusts of around 35-40 mph that surprised me. I didn't expect a car this big and heavy to get pushed around like it did, and it was a little spooky to feel it. But not something so bad I wanted to pull over and wait it out.

Probably going to take me a full afternoon with my pressure washer to get all the bugs off the front suspension! I've got quite a collection of critters stuck under there, plus all over the front of the car too! But I guess that's something I'll have to accept if I'm going to put lots of miles on it.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-05-20 08:03 AM - Post#2804862    










1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

rcr3
Site Ambassador -"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 3478
rcr3
10-05-20 09:57 AM - Post#2804876    

Lookin' Good!!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT






1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-05-20 03:46 PM - Post#2804901    

  • rcr3 Said:
Lookin' Good!!



Thanks!
Wont be long and the weather will require me to put it back in the shop, and then maybe I'll find time to finish the bodywork, and prepare for paint. Having too much fun now to tie it up in the shop.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
10-05-20 04:58 PM - Post#2804907    

Great looking car and sounds like a great trip.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-05-20 07:47 PM - Post#2804922    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Great looking car and sounds like a great trip.



Thanks Keith! Figured I had one chance before the weather begins to turn bad. So I went for it and got lucky with perfect weather! Might still get a day here or there this month, but likely it will go back in the shop soon to begin prep work for a paint job this winter.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-09-20 06:49 AM - Post#2805150    

'39 went back into the shop yesterday for a winter nap. The rains are supposed to hit today, and appears our great October weather is turning to fall weather. So time to return to the bodywork, and preparations for painting this winter.
Have a few other minor things I want to change, or check over the winter also. Not looking forward to bodywork as it's my least favorite car work to do. But I do prefer paint on cars vs. the primer it's got now, so have to buck up and do it.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-28-20 01:22 PM - Post#2806404    

Started some bodywork today. I found out from looking at the corners of the hood that I'd thinned it a bit too much when I was trying to reshape it this summer. I saw a couple cracks on the driver's rear corner where I took off thickness, and it was only about 1/8" thick. So I removed the paint inside and laid up 6 layers of glass cloth to rebuild it. Let it set overnight, and got back on it today.
Got the edges where glass overhung trimmed back, and rough ground. Then I used my long board and coarse sandpaper to get the edge straight again, and rounded it off. Mixed up some Duraglass to fill in the low spots, and roughed that in also. Just needs a tiny bit of thin glazing filler to be ready for primer again.
Did some measuring on my front fenders, and found the passenger side was 1/2" lower than the driver's side. So loosened up all the bolts and put in shims under the front braces to bring it up to match the driver's side.
Began to bend my trunk lid to get rid of the low spot on each side at around 18" from the hinge point. It's fiberglass and those I spoke with said it's best not to try to cut or shape it, since it's less than 3/16" low at this point. So I cut two 20" long 2x4's and stood them on end between the trunk lid and floor. Then attached a ratchet strap across the trunk handle down to each leaf spring, and pulled it tight to bend it. I'll check it each day and add tension, or release it when it matches up to the body along the lid.
I've got a friend who told me he'd paint the '39 if I can wait until spring, and I can sure do that! Need the whole winter to do bodywork at the pace I do it! So hopefully by spring he wont need to correct or fix it if I try hard to prepare it.
Changed my mind again on color. I feel like every time I talk to someone they make me want to change the color. I went by the local auto paint supplier to ask about paints, and which colors were better or easier to paint, plus pricing. The guy told me that most metallics and candy or pearl colors have a tough time getting an even look to them without about 3-4 coats. So he recommend not to do a color with a lot of metallic. He said a little is fine.
The original idea of gold he said was another tough color, so I scratched that off my short list. I want to decide and buy all my paint before year's end to save at least price increases that happen after the new year begins.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
10-31-20 03:56 PM - Post#2806718    

I've been attempting to bend the fiberglass trunk lid the last few days. Not a lot of pressure at first as I wanted to see if it bent, and how much it needed. Left it set a couple days, and checked it yesterday. It had bent slightly, but not nearly enough. So cinched it down again, and a little more pressure on the strap. Giving it a couple more days, and maybe by tomorrow the curve will align with the trunk lid opening, and it wont need anymore work on it.
I also need to put some shims between the hinge bolt points on the body to lower that end of the hood, as it's maybe just under 1/8" high there also. Maybe a washer or two between hinge and body will lower it enough to get that edge perfect also.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
11-01-20 07:20 AM - Post#2806749    

here's a '38 that shows up at the local rod hang out every now and then,
not saying this color but just an example of some Texas sheet metal


Attachment: IMG_3500.JPG (263.85 KB) 21 Views

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
11-01-20 07:24 AM - Post#2806750    

heres another one, this is a '39 with a '60 chevy dash
just another example to make it harder to decide on what color I guess


Attachment: IMG_3141.JPG (341.47 KB) 23 Views

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
11-01-20 08:21 AM - Post#2806761    

I almost avoid looking at various '39 pictures because it just makes me begin to drift towards yet more color options!
When I get bored and start looking, I end up changing my mind again!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
11-02-20 04:08 PM - Post#2806876    

Your '39 grabs attention even in primer and the stance,
But I'm thinking orange.
Just a thought!
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
11-03-20 08:51 AM - Post#2806926    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
Your '39 grabs attention even in primer and the stance,
But I'm thinking orange.
Just a thought!



Thanks! I should probably buy my paint so I wont change my mind again!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
11-04-20 11:55 AM - Post#2806983    

This is a local Kansas car in Orange. Its a beautiful color.

Attachment: 39_Chevy.jpg (2.93 MB) 33 Views


1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-08-20 02:10 PM - Post#2809631    

Wow! That's a gorgeous car, in a great shade of orange!! Makes me want orange even more now!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-08-20 02:12 PM - Post#2809632    

After installing the longer shackles the other day, I noticed my shocks were actually almost topped out. Didn't want rebound to damage them internally, so I planned to raise the lower mounting points on the axle end. Got to looking at my brackets I built and discovered I could get about 1.5" extra by flipping them side to side, which turned them upside down also. Just a small relief cut on a non structural area allowed it to lay flat on the opposite side and gain the extra length needed.
My new trans dipstick tube came to eliminate the ugly van dipstick tube I had. So installed that also. Easy to install, but wrestling the old one out was a chore.





Got my new valve covers on also. Had to drill holes for PCV and breather, and open them up slightly after trying my largest unibit that was still slightly small. These Brodix valve covers really seal nice!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
12-09-20 10:18 AM - Post#2809676    

Those look great. You do amazing work and I enjoy reading all of your updates.
Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
12-09-20 05:55 PM - Post#2809703    

Always glad to see your posts.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-11-20 09:26 AM - Post#2809795    

Thanks guys!
I am proceeding with final bodywork, and prep for paint. I welded up the front bumper openings the other day with fillers I bent up. Have to do some minor finish filler over the hammered welds, and then start going over the whole body carefully to find imperfections.
I've got all winter to do this, but since it's cold, and I dislike this type of work, it might take all winter to finish!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-21-20 02:54 PM - Post#2810497    

Weatherman blew it today, and instead of cold, heavy rains, we got 60 degrees, windy, and warm, with almost no rain until a few minutes ago. So decided it was warm enough to spread some filler, and got my bumper fillers mudded in and sanded.



With the nice weather I also got some work done on my '37 British Austin sedan. Changing out seats on that car, and Pick N Pull had a sale this weekend. I got two CRV buckets for $30 a pair!
So pulled them out and gave them a good scrubbing too. I'll be dying the leather black before they go in my Austin, and not using the headrests as they don't go with the era of the car.



Built this old '37 Austin a decade ago.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
12-21-20 07:24 PM - Post#2810514    

Good looking Austin. The grill looks a lot like a 38 Chevy. Except it has straight sides.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-21-20 08:02 PM - Post#2810519    

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good looking Austin. The grill looks a lot like a 38 Chevy. Except it has straight sides.



Thanks Keith! The Austins are said to be what Ford copied when they brought out their English Ford models in the 1930's. Austin and Ford started their businesses the same year, 1903.
I had wanted an Anglia or Austin most of my adult life. When I found this one locally it was a rust free survivor, and I grabbed it immediately.
This was the day in 2010 when I bought it.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
12-21-20 11:49 PM - Post#2810525    

Changed quite a bit.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-22-20 08:34 AM - Post#2810546    

When I bought the old Austin my oldest son told me it looked like a London cab! He couldn't see any way it could ever look like a 60's hotrod.
Once it was on the road 6 months later he told me he was very wrong in his thinking. This image was when first on the road. It got stripped down and painted a year later.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
12-23-20 11:53 AM - Post#2810623    

That car is so cool!!! One of my co-workers had an Anglia. He raced it and it was light and fast.
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
12-24-20 08:25 AM - Post#2810665    

  • 19Chevy50 Said:
That car is so cool!!! One of my co-workers had an Anglia. He raced it and it was light and fast.



Thanks! It's tough to not have a fast car when you put almost any V8 in a car this small and light. It took a bit, but eventually I figured out how to also make it go straight and fast too. At first it was a handful, but changing rear coilovers to adjustable QA1's and getting rid of the MT Sportsman tires resulted in a car that's extremely easy to handle, and goes as straight as any much larger car.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/HfE6A3Cl.jpg?1[/img]

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-15-21 02:26 PM - Post#2816222    

Weather here is beginning to get good! We've had little runs of sunny days in the high 50's and even mid 60's lately. Still working on prepping the '39 for paint, so gradually getting the body true.
Wife and I took a little trip Sat. in the '39 and she complained the seatbelt was too short. I told her to adjust it out more, and she said it was out of adjustment. I looked over and realized her seat was forward, and reached down to release it. It went back 4"-5", and suddenly she had plenty of seat belt length! She looked over and said, "I had so much leg room I thought the seat was already back?"
Amazing how roomy these old Chevys are up front!
While driving around we stopped at an antique shop. I never find anything, so don't care for them myself. But following her around inside I walked past a glass case and there in the case was an original 1939 Chevy owner's manual! A little of the dark blue flaking off, and smells like old paper, but in otherwise very good shape. They wanted $12, but took $10. A fun read, even if not much applies to mine anymore.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
03-21-21 08:49 AM - Post#2816515    

Been back on the bodywork recently, preparing for paint soon. I sanded the whole car down just enough to smooth out the primer. Found a few small places needing skimming to remove minor imperfections. But found one major also in the passenger door jam at the lower hinge. The metal showed signs of cracking, and when I lifted on the whole door I could see it flexing there.
So I pulled the door off and turned it hinge side up, to look it over. Decided to cut out a section about 1.75"x5" around the hinge, and then used that as a template to trace on new metal, slightly heavier. Ground it all smooth, drilled the holes, and tacked it back in with the new metal. Bolted it back on the door after some smoothing, and primer, and it's good to go.
Next project is to remove handles, and headlight/taillight housings. Then I need to install some inline connectors on the wiring to the lights so I can just plug them back in after it's painted and reassembled.
I have the paint on order, and going with a single stage acrylic urethane paint from TCP in their Restoration Shop line. This will be my first attempt at a complete paint job. I've only done panels previously, so no telling how it's going to go on my first try.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
03-21-21 10:59 AM - Post#2816519    

With your level of expertise, I have not doubt it will come out great.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-01-21 07:59 AM - Post#2817269    

Paint work is on hold now. I got everything stripped off for paint, and masked up. Plan was to shoot primer-sealer yesterday with low 70's temps here, and then wait for another 70's day to shoot the white. But I got some input from the guy who painted my Austin years ago which made me put the brakes on.
He told me that final paint needs to go on soon after sealer, or it could result in adhesion issues. He said he never waits more than a couple hours between sealer and paint to shoot the first light base coat. Others told me to wait a week for primer-sealer to "gas out", but he said that was bad info.
So now I'm going to wait until I know I'll have a day when it hits 70 before noon, and I have enough time to do sealer, paint, and likely 4 coats of paint over the sealer. I need to have enough coats to ensure I can cut and buff if needed.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-03-21 08:28 AM - Post#2817383    

So now that our week of warm weather has ended, I finally got this whole "how do you paint it?" debacle figured out. I totally forgot that my good friend's son graduated from Lincoln Tech's autobody program decades ago, and has been a professional painter ever since! So I called him and had him stop by after work yesterday.
He basically told me there are two schools of thought on painting cars that he referred as the "American Way" and the "European Way" and neither is wrong. In the US he said most shops are rushing to get cars out the door, so they set things up to seal the cars, and then get paint on them soon after sealer. In Europe they take more time between base and top coats, so it's not unusual to spray a primer or 2k primer, and let it "shrink up" for 3-7 days or more before shooting a top coat.
When I asked him about maximum times to shoot the top coat, he said there is no maximum time. As long as the car remained inside, and was dry, I could wait a month and no issue. Just be sure to do a thorough cleaning, and prep prior to paint to ensure no dust or bug specks could remain on the primer, and then begin shooting paint.
He's offered to drop by and "supervise" the painting if I want him to, so I may take him up on that. But since our week long warm spell is over today, I'm not sure when the final primer coat will even go on now? But at least I'm more comfortable proceeding now, and knowing the paint isn't going to fall off if I do it as he told me to.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-06-21 02:43 PM - Post#2817605    

Why is it that stuff fails just when you're ready to use it again? It reminds me of the often overused phrase, "Ran when parked"!
I was working on the '39 and wanted to spray some more high build primer on a couple panels. So I grab my primer, and mix in the catalyst and some reducer. Stir it all up, and dump it in my spray gun. Turn around to do a test spray on an old piece of plywood leaning against the wall and it dribbles out the end of the nozzle!
I dumped the primer back in the mixing cup, and quickly tore the gun apart to see if I could do a quick cleanup. But after pouring some reducer in the gun to check the pattern, it still just dribbled out the end. Threw my stuff down, and raced over to Harbor freight, and bought a spare spray gun. Didn't want a cheap $15 gun, but didn't need a $175, or $275 they sell either. So settled on a mid grade gun I figured would spray primer OK. Rushed back home, and wrenched the connectors, and inline regulator off, and transferred it all to the new gun. Shot some acetone through it quick to clean it, and loaded up the primer and sprayed before it turned over.
Was actually surprised at how well the new spray gun shot primer! Good enough I'll use it when I spray the whole car in primer later.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

wagonman100
Site Ambassador
Posts 15240
04-07-21 02:02 PM - Post#2817669    

That orange ‘39 looks almost exactly like one a buddy of mine built. The wheels are different. He doesn’t own it any more, but it was Tangelo Pearl. It was/is a beautiful car. It’s an opera coupe with the sliding quarter windows and had the sideways jump seats I. The back. But he had an actual back seat made for it.
Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier

1971BB427
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Posts 501
04-07-21 03:07 PM - Post#2817672    

  • wagonman100 Said:
That orange ‘39 looks almost exactly like one a buddy of mine built. The wheels are different. He doesn’t own it any more, but it was Tangelo Pearl. It was/is a beautiful car. It’s an opera coupe with the sliding quarter windows and had the sideways jump seats I. The back. But he had an actual back seat made for it.



Mine is also an opera coupe and has the sliding 1/4 windows. But my plans to go orange have changed now. Wife and I were out for a drive in the '39 and we drove up on a '40 Ford coupe that was orange. My wife looks over and says, "That's an ugly color for an old car."
I asked her if she heard me talking about painting the '39 orange, and she said she had, but didn't want to say anything. That got me second guessing my choice, and eventually I changed colors. It will now be an creamy white color.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

wagonman100
Site Ambassador
Posts 15240
04-07-21 03:17 PM - Post#2817673    

Straight orange might not look as good, but the Tangelo Pearl is gorgeous on a ‘39 Chevy. But it’s your car, so do any color you please. I think it will look great with your choice of color as well. It’s such a beautiful body style almost any color looks good on it.
Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-08-21 07:53 AM - Post#2817695    

  • wagonman100 Said:
Straight orange might not look as good, but the Tangelo Pearl is gorgeous on a ‘39 Chevy. But it’s your car, so do any color you please. I think it will look great with your choice of color as well. It’s such a beautiful body style almost any color looks good on it.



Yes, I agree on the '39 Coupes being my favorite of all the pre WWII Chevy body styles!
Never been much of a fan of pearl paint, but the orange one above is an exception, as the pearl really makes it pop. Other pearl paint (especially white pearl) just aren't my thing.
I love colors that look period, but not just period to 1939. I also like period colors to the era these cars began to be popular hotrods like I saw in the 60's. So 60's colors look great to my eyes.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-13-21 12:07 PM - Post#2817962    

Got the jams shot this morning. Temps are slightly low, but my friend's son told me slightly low isn't a problem like too hot is, and he prefers to shoot color slightly below the catalyst range. Anyway, it went fine, and no runs so far. Did the door jams, inside of trunk lid, and doors inside edges only.
I'll remove some masking later so the doors close, and then sand the whole car one more time tomorrow prior to starting the final paint work. The Wimbledon White is a little creamier than I thought, but I'm glad it is. Better than a stark white, that's a bit too bright.

The new spray gun is still spraying really great! And the urethane lays down much better than the primer did!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-14-21 01:53 PM - Post#2818034    

What a day! My rear is dragging, but the '39 is painted! Took 4 hours from start to finish, and 4 coats until I ended up with less than a cup of paint in the gallon. I'll save it for any minor touchups I might ever need.
The first coat went on really well, but it was semi transparent, as I just wanted a light coat to bond to the primer. Then I followed up with three more coats about every 20 minutes as the directions called for.

This was the first light coat:













Took these after the 2nd coat, but no more pictures after that. I'll wait until I can get things reassembled and get it out of the shop before I take the final pictures.



























Surprisingly for me, not a single run anywhere! Actually shocking! I did see two places where a bug committed suicide, and I'll have to rub them out once it's cured in a day or three. Had the first coat laid down, and stepped out of the shop to see my neighbor headed towards me with his lawnmower! I'd told him I'd be painting the car today, but guess that he's oblivious to what dust means, even with a furnace filter on the inlet vent to the shop. Had to run and stop him before he got too close!

I'm somewhat pleased with my first ever paint job, although it's not show quality, it actually came out better than I could have hoped for.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-15-21 01:02 PM - Post#2818095    

Not a lot done today, except to remove all the masking, and reinstall my slicks.



























But at least I can see how it looks now with the contrast of tinted windows, and black rubber here and there.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
04-15-21 09:22 PM - Post#2818124    

Looks outstanding.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-16-21 06:53 AM - Post#2818148    

Thanks Keith. It's got it's tiny imperfections, but hopefully some 1000-2000 wet sanding, and buffing will further help those few places.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
04-16-21 08:19 AM - Post#2818157    



with those tires & wheels
geez, what a fine looking piece of machinery!

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-16-21 03:00 PM - Post#2818181    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:


with those tires & wheels
geez, what a fine looking piece of machinery!





Thanks!

Got the lights reassembled, and connected. Then did more cleaning. I can't figure out how all the very light mist got into the interior glass! I had to use some thinner to remove the film off all the inside glass, and a little outside. Then window cleaner inside and out also. Upholstery and carpet looked fine, just the glass. Weird.
Went out and bought a new random orbital polisher, compound, and some wet/dry 1500 grit paper. I wont go over the whole car wet sanding, but need to hit some trouble spots. Then I'll buff the whole car out with compound, and later polish and wax it too once it's got a month or so to cure.
The new polisher is a Torqx brand, six speeds from a few hundred rpm's to 6400 rpm's. Seems like a well made tool.






















1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
04-17-21 07:53 PM - Post#2818256    

now the body line below the side windows needs a red accent pinstripe
it really looks good,
thanks for sharing your story and all the pictures!
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
04-18-21 05:59 AM - Post#2818271    

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
now the body line below the side windows needs a red accent pinstripe
it really looks good,
thanks for sharing your story and all the pictures!



Yes, I'm planning on that pinstripe. But thinking the inside of that bodyline is wide enough for two thin pinstripes, and hoping to have one red, and one black in there if the pinstriper feels it can be done easily. Probably some other work in a few areas too just to break up all the white, and lack of chrome trim.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
05-27-21 06:15 PM - Post#2820663    

For the last month I've been contacting local guys who do pinstriping and lettering, and it's been frustrating, and disappointing to say the least! I've left messages and never gotten a call back. Or actually talk to guys, and have them tell me they'd get back to me, but never heard from them. Or even have some ask me to send them pictures, and measurements of the door length and width, and then never respond to multiple emails.
It seems everyone has enough work, or doesn't want to work at all. So I finally contacted a local sign shop I used over a decade ago to do the vinyl lettering and images I used on my Austin. The guy was very happy to meet with me, and asked me to come right down. He took pictures of the '39, and took notes on what I wanted. Then the next day I got this email with a mockup picture for my approval.



He's going to make the various signage as two piece stencils. So the stencils will peel off the paper, and stick to the car like a decal. Then the letters will be painted in. Once dry the stencil gets removed, and a 2nd stencil applied to do the outer border color.
I've used this setup on another race car and it was very easy to do, and being painted it looks professionally done.
Since I approved the design he told me he might have them ready tomorrow, or Tuesday if they can't get them cut out tomorrow. Way better customer service than anyone else I've dealt with on this project. Kudos to Signs Now, and especially Chris at the Portland, Or. shop!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
05-31-21 02:26 PM - Post#2820916    

Hotter than heck out there today! Got out before 9:00, but it took 5 hours to do the lettering, and when I finally finished it was already mid 80's. The large door stencils were a PITA to do thee 2nd part that is the thin black line. I finally cut all the excess vinyl stencil back to within 1/4" just so I could see where I was situating them. Also cut the "Miller's" separate from the lower part so I could place them 1/2 at a time. Messed up one "S" on Miller's and had to freehand it with just the outer border as the inner border wrinkled up and stuck to itself! Arrggg! I'm shaky as heck, but by going slowly it worked out.

Here's the procedure. Put tape down to set them the same for both sides, and then align the top and one side to the marked out tape. Then just paint in the stencil.









Once the first red base is done and dry, I situated the black stencil over it, which covers the red base, and lets me do the think black border. Some parts didn't get a border, as they're too small to mess with. Like Deb's name on passenger side, and my dad's name on the driver's side. Just a nod to him, as he was my hero, and his first new car was a '39 Chev too.













Of course added a few more stickers to the side of the cowl, and that's it. Wont be putting any on the body.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
05-31-21 04:22 PM - Post#2820923    

Another great job.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
05-31-21 07:20 PM - Post#2820930    

That is just completely over the top!
WOW!
I was not thinking anything like that,
I was thinking just a few pin stripe lines,
but that is really nice, really neat!
WOW, that really sets that car off, would be fun cruising into the car hang outs in that piece of machinery.
Now, do you have exhaust cut outs..............
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-01-21 06:07 AM - Post#2820947    

Thank you! Glad you like it.
Yes, I have electric exhaust cutouts, so I can touch the switch and they're open or closed in a few seconds.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
06-01-21 07:34 AM - Post#2820951    

The car looks awesome!!!!
You really do excellent work. I would like to have the skills and patience to do the paint and body as you have. Now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor......
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-01-21 07:42 AM - Post#2820952    

  • 19Chevy50 Said:
The car looks awesome!!!!
You really do excellent work. I would like to have the skills and patience to do the paint and body as you have. Now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor......



Thanks!
Appreciate that. I've enjoyed this project more than any previous builds, just because it challenged me farther than any previous builds with all the rust repairs and bodywork it needed. And the further I got into it, the more I kept telling myself I needed to try and do more of the build myself. So this one represents a build where I didn't have anyone else's hands on it. Good or bad, it's all my own labors.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-02-21 02:40 PM - Post#2821039    

Drove to our local vintage Flying A station today to get some pictures. Owner happened to stop in while I was there, and asked me to please send him copies for the scrapbook he keeps. This place is used by all the local hotrodders to take car pictures.










1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-02-21 02:40 PM - Post#2821040    

Drove to our local vintage Flying A station today to get some pictures. Owner happened to stop in while I was there, and asked me to please send him copies for the scrapbook he keeps. This place is used by all the local hotrodders to take car pictures.










1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-10-21 07:07 AM - Post#2821434    

My first mishap, but fortunately no damage to the car, and pretty minor. I was coming home from a cruise in this weekend when I began to hear a thumping noise like joints in a highway, but only from the right rear! I slowed down to 55 mph, and it went away. Since I was just a few miles from my exit I continued driving, and made it home fine.
I jacked the car up to check things out and discovered the problem:



Luckily not a big chunk, and on the inside edge, so didn't even hear it exit the car. I called the maker, Towel City Tires in North Carolina and told them what happened. They asked for pictures, and said once they got them they'd warranty the tires. I sent them pictures, but they said they couldn't find any records of a purchase within the last 12 months, which is their warranty period!
So I called them and explained I had bought the tires almost two years ago, but they hadn't been on the road most of that time, and were simply sitting here being used for mockup, or stored most of that time.
The rep told me he'd consider that, and get back to me. When he did they decided to cover half the cost of a new tire, and include shipping in that. So I am getting a new tire, but it will take a week or two before it even ships. I can drive it around town still, but probably will just leave it parked until they send me the new tire.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
06-15-21 02:02 PM - Post#2821646    

Sorry to hear about your mishap. Glad it did not cause any other issues. I was surprised to see that tire chunk out like that. I was in the tire business for 9 years and not too many ended up like that with so few miles. Glad they worked with you on the replacements. Some dont. By the way the pictures at the old station look great. Do you mind if I save some to share with my other car buddies.....
1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-17-21 06:25 AM - Post#2821714    

  • 19Chevy50 Said:
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Glad it did not cause any other issues. I was surprised to see that tire chunk out like that. I was in the tire business for 9 years and not too many ended up like that with so few miles. Glad they worked with you on the replacements. Some dont. By the way the pictures at the old station look great. Do you mind if I save some to share with my other car buddies.....



Thanks. No, I have no problem with you sharing the pictures.

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-25-21 09:32 AM - Post#2822080    

Got a UPS tracking shipment notice yesterday! So appears my replacement pair of pie crust slicks will be here by June 30th. In time for the 4th of July car show!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Keith_Knox
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 6719
Keith_Knox
06-25-21 10:34 AM - Post#2822082    

Sounds like good news.
29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1965 Chevy II 2 door post 350 3 speed manual
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crewcab

Bad56Sedan
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts 1400
Bad56Sedan
06-29-21 11:08 AM - Post#2822314    

Car Show?
post a few pics if ya can,
doubt any car shows happen here,
looks like rain for another week
VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image]https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
06-30-21 06:38 PM - Post#2822412    

We've had the opposite problem! Too hot for car shows! Last weekend, and on through Tuesday, we had the hottest temperatures in Oregon history! We saw 4 days well over 110 degrees, with Tuesday hitting 116 degrees! And our power went out Tuesday evening from the heat, and didn't come back for 12 hours! Luckily the heat wave broke, and it got down into high 70's that night, so we survived.

My new replacement pie crust slicks came in tonight! They are built on brand new radial casings, not recapped old tires! So having them mounted and balanced first thing tomorrow.
Since it's a 20 mile freeway drive to our daughter's for the 4th of July car show, I would have to have passed if they didn't get here!
Our state just opened fully, with no restrictions, so lots of car shows starting now. I don't do most of them, as hate sitting all day at them. Mostly like the little car crises that are free, and no judging.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-01-21 12:23 PM - Post#2822453    

New pie crust slicks installed this morning! I was pleased to see they took almost no weights to balance, unlike those that came off the car. When the others were balanced the tire guy mentioned that one took a lot of weight, but i forgot to ask before they stripped the weights if it was the one that went bad?
These look very similar, except the casings are extremely nice, and better than the ones that came off.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

19Chevy50
Silver Supporting Member
Posts 113
19Chevy50
07-01-21 02:18 PM - Post#2822461    


Looking good!! Glad you got the tires in time to enjoy the car show. I am going to a cool one about 30 miles away on Saturday. Kansas is similar we are open and there are plenty of shows to attend. Free or not.

1971BB427
Contributor
Posts 501
07-02-21 08:17 AM - Post#2822492    

We just fully reopened June 30th, and it's been a long time coming. Closed down in March of 2020, so most car guys have been going stir crazy for well over a year!
Had I not been building this '39 the last two years I too would have gone a little nuts.
Enjoy your car show!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

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