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Username Post: Cylinder Disk Brake Conversion Kit
Jack Crain
Posts 879
10-04-15 03:05 AM - Post#2579999    

In the beginning.......

Disk Brakes are a much more reliable system than the original Huck brakes so I decided to install the kit. My 46 Fleetmaster would pull to the right if I stomped the brakes and a couple of time that put me in a sticky situation. I ordered the kit from Chevys of the 40s. ECI Hotrod Brakes actually make up the kits and CO40s just sell them.I didn't realize what all I was getting into when I put the order in. The original brake system had a single chamber master cylinder, which has the pivot mounts for the brake pedal and clutch pedal. In the old days, a single chamber MC supplied brake fluid to a single brake line that branched off to the 4 wheel cylinders. The kit I was installing needed a dual chamber MC, one for the front disk brake circuit, and another for the back drum brake circuit. So, a new Master Cylinder was required. And, since the old had the pivot mounts on it, I had to buy an adapter to mount the MC to. I suppose that I could have changed to a firewall mounted MC like more modern cars, but then I would have had to find a "Hanging" brake pedal and I'd still have the clutch pedal to worry about. ECI also makes an adapter for new MC that let you keep your brake pedal and clutch pedal in their original places (thru the floor) so I ordered one of those, too. While doing my shopping, I spotted a set of rubber brake hoses that were "made" for the conversion so I ordered a set of those. The conversion kits only come in 5 holeX4.75 wheel pattern so a couple of new rims were required. I did some googleing and found out that when you mount your master cylinder below the level of the calipers, you need a 2 psi residual pressure valve. Supposedly, that keeps your brake fluid from draining from the calipers to the MC when you park on a hill or let the car sit over night. Next I discovered that the rear drum will lock up and skid the rear tires unless you add a proportional valve to the rear circuit. The drum circuit also requires a residual pressure valve but it needs a 10 psi valve.
I called ECI and asked about a MC. The said their kit used a 68 to 76 Mustang Disk/Drum Manual master cylinder. Their MC adapter was made for it and most of the Mustang MC's had the 10 psi valve built in to the rear port. I bought a MC locally and went to the car. I was planning on using the original brake lines, just separating the front from the back at the first "T" in the system Well, 70 years under a car with dirt, grime ,grit and rust made me decide to run new lines. Back to Google! I found that most brake lines are 3/16 " tubing so off to AutoZone for a roll of tubing and a flaring kit and adapters and tube nuts.
So far, the conversion has cost me over $1300, that includes the kit, MC adapter, new Master Cylinder, rubber hoses, 2 new wheels and tires, proportional valve, 2 psi valve, a 25 foot roll of brake line and fittings, flaring kit, and shipping charges.

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