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Username Post: 55 Sport Coupe - 396 LT1 - T56
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-25-13 09:07 AM - Post#2310478    

Did some work on this car when I first acquired it 7 years ago, but it got sidetracked due to some health and family problems that needed my attention. Then the '55 gasser and the '55 4x4 truck took priority for awhile. And my '58 pro street truck is now 15 years on the road, and needed some "freshening up", so the hardtop just kept sitting. I always knew when a project is "done", it really is never really just "done".....

Today is the day to pull the hardtop out of storage, and haul it up to my main shop 15 miles away and get started on it. Will post pix and keep this thread as the main project thread as the car comes together.

The vision is a low sitting, good handling, fun to drive, 500 hp LT1 396 with a T56 and 9" locker, minitubbed with good rubber all around.

When I bought it, the motor was a wheezy, oil leakin' 350/350 combo, on stock rims with stock suspension, stock interior, and the magnet found a bit of bondo here and there.

The early work I did included a minitub job, slung the springs in under the frame rails, narrowed a 9" with a detroit locker and 4.11 gears, put slappers on the rear springs. Then the motor let go, so it want into storage. This pix was just before the storage:

Here's a concept drawing I did when I first got the car:

There are lots of decisions to be made, bucket seats vs the bench. Dechroming vs keeping the Bel Air trim. Just how far do I want to go with the frame. Have visited both Jim Meyer's shop and Art Morrison's shop, both offer quality products.

Or do a body off and setup my own custom frame (a whole lot more work, but I feel capable of doing it). It's just that as I turn 71, just how far do I want to go with this car?

I would like to get it on the road and enjoy it, along with the rest of my growing 'fleet' (the '55 street gasser, the '55 4x4 stepside, and the '58 pro street truck), which I am now enjoying each day....
(eenie - meenie - mainie - moe, which car today is gonna show.....)

I did start a project page when I was doing that initial work on this car, will start adding to that as I make progress:
LINK to the hardtop project page....

Aloha,
"2Loose" Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
01-25-13 09:29 AM - Post#2310485    

Somewhere along the way I put in the one piece "buick" style taillight lenses, with the led light plate under them. Also started peeling off the bondo, it is thick at the taillights....

The motor is built and ready to go. Needs a new water pump is about all.

Aloha,
Willy
4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
01-25-13 10:25 AM - Post#2310503    

my stock LT1 seems pretty strong. no tellin' what that beast will do. Niice!
It's all good. mostly



cnbell
Deceased
Posts 9224
cnbell
01-25-13 10:43 AM - Post#2310506    

Sounds like a cool build, looking forward to watching it...
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

jeffs55
Ultra Senior Member
Posts 11788
jeffs55
01-25-13 01:27 PM - Post#2310542    

Looks like a good start already Willy.
I'll be keeping up with this one too.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
1948 Studebaker Champion
1977 Toyota Celica Coupe
2000 Blazer 4X4
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62chevy427
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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62chevy427
01-25-13 07:52 PM - Post#2310663    

i would leave the body and stance much as it is.now the engine and trans--go for it.
56 bel air ((since 2002)
62 impala ss (since 1965)
65 el camino (since 1969)
66 nova (since 1987)
67 malibu convertible (since 1981)
72 el camino ss454 (since 1985)
83 gmc 4wd (since 1991)
95 impala (new)
15 chevy equinox


56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
01-25-13 10:10 PM - Post#2310690    

I too like the stance, and the current color scheme. Old school on the outside, and new school power train; that would be a winner in my book. Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
01-26-13 09:18 AM - Post#2310780    

Towed 'er up to the main shop I share with a couple of buddies yesterday. There are five other project cars in that shop at the moment.

I have on hand a pair of Global West tubular a-arms, with coil-overs, 2" dropped spindles, disk brakes, to install. That will drop the front end a little, I've always liked a little rake on them like was popular "back in the day...."

At our "fender friday" beer and grill session at the shop last nite, we were all talking about "what if" for this car, and ya know, I kinda like the current color scheme! Am thinking along those lines right now. There is some rust along the lower door panels, and some of the rear floor needs repair or replacement, might need new door panels. Will be pulling off all the old paint and finding where the bondo is.

But first the mechanical stuff, get 'er running well first, then work on the body as a "work in progress"....
Willy
4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
01-26-13 10:36 AM - Post#2310814    

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
I too like the stance, and the current color scheme. Old school on the outside, and new school power train; that would be a winner in my book. Butch/56sedandelivery.





It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
01-26-13 11:50 AM - Post#2310829    

Last nite at the "Fender Fri" BBQ and beer session at the shop, we discussed that very topic. I have to admit I have always liked that color combo, but have always wanted to try the red/black combo too, so am torn. The vote last nite was split also, but slightly in favor of the existing colors....
C57Heaven
Senior Member
Posts 2021
C57Heaven
01-26-13 08:31 PM - Post#2310971    

looking forward to the build updates. FWIW, I like the color it was when you stored it.
Peace,
John H.
55 BA 2dr Sed owned since 1979, sold 6/1/09;
1957 Conv (starting to restore)

2Loose
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2Loose
01-27-13 09:18 AM - Post#2311100    

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more in that direction myself. I do like the subtle nuance a nicely done clear coat with some pearl in it can do to the white portion. Have seen some that I really liked!

The side trim is banged slightly here and there, but generally in pretty good shape! The white paint down the center of the main piece looks like original, and showing it's age, but am thinking it looks pretty cool actually, and leaving it just the way it is, just polishing the stainless a little, would be a cool way to go! Will show some pix when I get a chance.

Still need to weld in the rear tubs, hauled them, the hood and trunk, an AAW wiring kit, the Global West front suspension setup with 2" dropped spindles and disk brakes up to the shop yesterday.

Today moving the motor and tranny. Getting it all together in one place. I tried to accumulate as many parts as I knew I would need when I was working and had some money. At least I had more then than I do now! For awhile there, I had paid off my mortgage, and paid off the loans to put the kids through college, and told the wife that NOW was the time to work on my beloved Chevies....

I'm glad I did, as now it would be impossible to pick up the parts I used in both the trucks, the gasser, and now this cruiser! This might be my last project, ya just never know. Went to a funeral Fri for a 79 year old buddy who was drag racing his 10 second camaro up until he was 75, and had just put the finishing touches on his '37 Ford pickup, wish I had pix of that truck, it is stunning!

I used to sit in the staging lanes in my '58 pro street truck (12.90 class) next to his camaro which was lined up in the 10.90 class, and be inspired to be like him! He fought cancer these last 4 years and it finally got him, but he never gave up!

There's a favorite cartoon from the sixties of some guy or bunch of guys hoofin' it down the road, with the logo, "Keep On Truckin"....

Aloha to Al....
Willy


2Loose
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2Loose
01-28-13 03:13 PM - Post#2311480    

First I need to weld the "mini-tubs" in and fix up the floor, get it all "sanitary"....


Set up a HOME page and will be linking project pages for this car as work proceeds....

LINK to '55 Sport Coupe Project Home Page

LINK to Page Two for this project

Aloha,
Willy
jeffs55
Ultra Senior Member
Posts 11788
jeffs55
01-29-13 01:21 PM - Post#2311760    

It's coming along Willy. I vote for the original color (ish) as well. (sweeeet)
There are plenty red and green ones out there.
No need to add another one.
Besides, the truck is red. Put a black stripe on it.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
1948 Studebaker Champion
1977 Toyota Celica Coupe
2000 Blazer 4X4
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tri5ss
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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tri5ss
01-30-13 08:49 AM - Post#2312045    

IMHO

Depends on what you want!

Do you want a 'In your face mess with me and I'll blow your doors off' ride? Then the red with black stripe.

If you want that nice street car "sleeper" look with some gitty-up under the hood, then keep it the same color.

Like I said, JMHO
Tri5SS
'55 210, GMPP ZZ3, 200 4R, 12 bolt 3.73 posi, CPP P/S, ABS P/DB.

http://www.picturetrail.com/tri5ss

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool

4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
01-30-13 09:28 AM - Post#2312056    


I'm not exactly sure that is a stock color. It looks a lot like my car color and it is not a stock color.
It's a nice color, metallic?
Stanley
It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
01-30-13 09:55 AM - Post#2312063    

It's slightly metallic, I'll get the cowl tag info and figure out what it was originally. The dash is a really dark green, I don't like it. I like the color it is a lot though, so might just keep it that way. To me it looks really good just the way it is, needs to sit just a hair lower though for me. 2" would be plenty!

Goin' through my storage room, sorting through parts I have accumulated for various projects, and left over parts from "finished" projects (come on now, ya know they are never "finished"....), there are some parts I just can't find. They are hiding from me!

I know I had a complete Global West front suspension setup for this car, tubular a-arms, 2" dropped spindles, disk brakes, have found everything but the spindles, should have been there with the other parts, but nope! Can't find 'em!

Frustrating!
Mowman
Member
Posts 406
01-30-13 04:13 PM - Post#2312164    

Willy I usually find the parts I couldn't find after I bought the second set!

Mowman
chevybow
Contributor
Posts 904
chevybow
01-30-13 04:28 PM - Post#2312169    

Willy, I have a new black padded dash that I picked up along the way if you want it let me know and I will send it to you...Donny
2Loose
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2Loose
01-30-13 08:14 PM - Post#2312234    

Mowman,

Yup, I've got "extra" parts around too, just because of that....

The cowl tag says Style No. 55-10370 or 1037D
Trim No. 520
Paint No. 684
Top ACC.

Anybody know how to interpret these?
Willy
tri5ss
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 2587
tri5ss
01-31-13 12:57 PM - Post#2312430    

Willy,

1037D - Bel Air 2dr hardtop Sport Coupe V-8
Trim - 520 Beige/Green
Paint - 684 Indian Ivory/Navaho Tan
Not sure what Top ACC means. I'm sure someone else will chime in with the info.

Randy
Tri5SS
'55 210, GMPP ZZ3, 200 4R, 12 bolt 3.73 posi, CPP P/S, ABS P/DB.

http://www.picturetrail.com/tri5ss

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool

2Loose
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2Loose
01-31-13 09:38 PM - Post#2312569    

Hmmmm.....
Navaho Tan, will have to check that out....
Sounds interesting
2Loose
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2Loose
01-31-13 09:58 PM - Post#2312572    

Searched the Navaho Tan and this came up:
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
from 9 years ago.
Am still up in the air as to what color I want to go with this car.
Gotta let it "soak in" for awhile....

Did chip away a bit at the bondo I knew was on the bottom of the doors, lot of rot, I knew something was there from my magnet inspection when I bought the car, but what I found today was worse than I thought. Will have to do some real rebuilding of the bottom of the doors. Will post some pix. Thinking repair patch vs new door skins...
But gotta find out how bad the door frames, etc are first....

Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
02-08-13 01:54 PM - Post#2314904    

Just cleaning up, checking parts, searching for "lost" parts (well, I know I had 'em, so where are they???), and have found most of them.

started putting the Heidt's front suspension together on the work bench to check out if everything was there: tubular a-arms, 2" dropped spindles, disk brakes, QA1 coil-overs, it's all looking good!


LINK to my page 2....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-09-13 11:03 AM - Post#2315120    

Started pulling the front end apart....


Now pulling the suspension off, then the motor/trans come out, then the doors come off, then the body is going up in the air.....
Wish I had a "rotisserie"....
Willy

Page 2 LINK....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-11-13 11:15 AM - Post#2315737    

Got the front frame stripped and the motor/tranny is now out....


Not sure if I have room to hoist the body up off the frame, am looking at it. It would be good to get it all clean and fresh paint under there, and put in some new body mount donuts....

Then hang the new motor/tranny in the frame and fab some good stout side mounts. I have a custom way I like to do it, let's see how it comes out....

The front suspension parts are in good shape, just need a cleanup, some new bushings and some fresh paint. Think anyone doing a tri-five resto might be interested in them?

Aloha,
Willy

LINK to my page....
cnbell
Deceased
Posts 9224
cnbell
02-11-13 11:43 AM - Post#2315741    

The front end parts probably aren't worth the shipping costs to send them.

On mine I lift the body off the frame about six inches, replace the bushings and paint the top of the frame. I don't have the room or the gear to take the body completely off the frame and would rather not do it if I don't need to.

Looking forward to watching the build...
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

2Loose
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2Loose
02-11-13 10:01 PM - Post#2315927    

Thanks, that's the thought I am having, there's too many projects going on around me at the "Old Dudes Shop", not much room, so am thinking just jack the body up enough to get under it and make everything clean, painted, and put it back together...
LINK to the OD Racing Page....


Started working on the floors today, chipping, scraping, cleaning it up, not too bad really, but some definite thin spots I need to address....




And still need to weld in the "minitubs" and some other pieces in the trunk....


Usually I fill in the piece behind the rear seat solid, but might make the back seat a flip down so a surfboard could be put in the trunk through this area into the back seat, or any other long object....

I have the front bucket seats from the '93 Camaro the LT1 came out of, and the back seat, thinking of adapting it to this car....
Aloha,
Willy


Set up a page for the work on the floors and trunk....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-12-13 10:46 AM - Post#2316083    

Am also wrestling with the idea of whether I should put in a roll bar or not. It will not be road raced, there is no venue here for that, although there is an SCCA group that does the autocross stuff, would like to run this car through that when I get it complete....
1956cpe
Contributor
Posts 939
1956cpe
02-13-13 07:24 AM - Post#2316347    

The autocross deal is actually pretty fun. I don't think you will need a roll bar for most courses as they are generally pretty short straight sections between corners. I have run the '56 at Del Mar Goodguys two years in a row and it's all first and second gear, mostly first with my gearing and set up.
In your other post about steering boxes, I'll second the CPP 500 box. I installed mine when they first came out and along with all the other suspension stuff like you are planning it will work great.
Also, those pics of the OD shop are great!
Best of luck with your build.

Pete
2Loose
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2Loose
02-13-13 10:01 AM - Post#2316402    

Has anyone tried the Delphi 600 steering box? I just heard about it, it has a little faster steering ratio than the CPP 500 box? at least that's what I heard....
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
02-16-13 01:14 PM - Post#2317519    

As I really want to get this car on the road and drive it, am rethinking just how far I want to go with it!

At last nite's "Fender Friday" session, it was agreed that the condition of the car is so good that it would make sense to just do a really nice clean up job! Clean, paint and refresh everything to look good, like the frame rails, firewall, floors, brake lines, then just start putting it back together....

CPP 500 power steering box, power brake MC, new windshield wiper setup, put in the motor and tranny, new wire kit throughout, leave the existing paint and upholstery for now, it's really in pretty good shape!

Then just drive it for awhile, and enjoy it. Then gradually work on the upholstery and patching up the existing paint here and there as needed, but keep it essentially as is! Eventually the front and rear glass need to be popped out and the glass frame reworked to clean it and remove rust, then reinstall the glass (it is in good condition) with new rubber, the existing stuff is hard as a rock!

I'll get it on the road a lot faster then trying to do a complete frame off and body rework, and will be able to enjoy it a lot more, which really is the goal here, as I never intended this to be a "show car"....

And it will fit my budget for this car a lot better!
Aloha,
Willy
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
02-17-13 07:51 PM - Post#2317983    

Now you're talking! I agree on not going "overboard"; keep it old school. Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
02-18-13 10:08 AM - Post#2318140    

Started fitting in the old tubs I had cut out, to widen them. The "mini-tubs" as it is sometimes referred to.

There are many ways to do this, this is just the way I choose to do it. This is not a show car, and is intended to be a daily driver, fast, handle well, but still, not going to take the time to do precision cutting and fitting on these tubs, just make them strong and solid.

Started by trimming and notching the old tub I had cut out so it could be moved over and welded back in place:



Trial fit:


It's a pretty good fit, it will take a little more trimming and some hammering to get the fit I want, then will tack it in place and make a template for the piece to be added to fill in the gap....

I used this same method on the '55 4dr gasser, this is how that came out....

I will paint and carpet the hardtop trunk though, it will be finished nicely inside....

Now to do the other side the same....
Aloha,
Willy

LINK more pix on my web page....

LINK to mini-tub job on the gasser...
2Loose
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2Loose
03-01-13 01:13 PM - Post#2321858    

Got both sides rear tubs trimmed and fitted pretty well. Filled in the spare tire well and welded in some other pieces I had cut out when I was moving the springs in under the frame rails. Got the right side tub welded in place, still have to weld in the left side, then I will fill in the gap over the top on both sides, and weld in a support for the trunk hinge.
Willy


2Loose
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2Loose
05-02-13 11:49 AM - Post#2341244    

It's gettin' there, slowly, but it's gettin' there...


Need to put the supports for the trunk hinges, and a couple more small patches and then seam sealer and paint and the trunk and mini-tubs are done....
Willy

Home Page for this car....
2Loose
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2Loose
06-29-13 11:24 AM - Post#2359427    

Got the trunk done, will carpet it later:



Started working on the inside floors, some patching/welding, but mostly rust removal, metal prep, then coating with the same bed liner I used in the trunk. Carpeting to follow.


This project is moving along much slower than I planned, as my other rigs keep developing problems that need immediate attention, like the leaky water pump on my 55 pickup, and the failed brakes on my 58 pickup. It never ends!

But it's still fun, even if it is occasionally frustrating!

Aloha,
Willy
jeffs55
Ultra Senior Member
Posts 11788
jeffs55
07-06-13 03:02 PM - Post#2361278    

Lookin' good Willy.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
1948 Studebaker Champion
1977 Toyota Celica Coupe
2000 Blazer 4X4
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2Loose
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2Loose
09-05-13 10:58 PM - Post#2379583    

Family, House projects, travel, my two trucks with tech problems, man, there's always something!

Got the inside floors in pretty good shape, welded up as needed, scrubbed 'em good with a wire wheel, then Oshpho (phosphoric acid) to kill any remaining rust "goblins", then hit needed areas with a good quality Napa seam sealer, let that go off, good and hard, then hit it with a rubber compound of some sort from Rustoleum. Will list it in a future post....






Just covering it up with the rubber compound makes a huge difference!





There's these access holes in the front seat foot area on both sides, I think originally they had rubber plugs, but think I'll just make cover plates and screw them down with seam sealer around the edges...





Moving on to the front frame clip and firewall...



A lot of scraping, scrubbing, cleaning needed here, only a little welding, some fresh paint, then I can hang the new front suspension on...



More later, thinking about what kind of motor mounts I want to fab for the LT1, getting close to fitting that and the T56 in place....
Aloha,
Willy

LINK to floor/firewall repair page...
2Loose
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2Loose
09-13-13 10:54 AM - Post#2381763    

Not a lot going on, just scraping and cleaning the frame and firewall, trying to get it ready to paint, and still have to repair the rust inside the air ventilation boxes on each side behind the firewall.
-Willy


LINK to '55 Sport Coupe Homepage
2Loose
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2Loose
11-11-13 11:42 AM - Post#2398682    

This project had to sit for awhile, some of my other rigs developed problems and needed attention, ya gotta keep 'em on the road and runnin', ya know?

Anyway, dug out all the Heidt's suspension parts that I had sitting on the shelf:
Upper and lower tubular A-arms,
Coil-overs,
2" dropped spindles,
the earlier GM disk brakes, look like Chevelle to me....

Also picked up a 500 power steering box, and a painted (well, I'm gonna paint it....) Ididit tilt steering column to go with it.

Have the "new style" Earl Williams side mounts, they are very nice!

Eventually the body is going to come off, but wanted to have the steering etc. parts all on there when I fitted the LT1 and T56 in, with the Hooker Super Comp headers, and welded in the new motor mounts. Plus I think that tranny is going to hit the floor tunnel, and that might need some modification.

Got the frame well scrubbed in front, and painted it with the Rusteoleum black Hammertone paint, it came out nice. Still needs more paint where the motor mounts will go, but it's a start....

With all that sheet metal gone, not motor, that front end is pretty light. When I jacked the bottom A-arm to compress the coil-overs for installation, had to tie the frame to a 4x4 under the jack! What fun....



I'll post more pix as I get more done here, with the cleaning and painting, where wasn't much to show.

The plan is to install the exhaust system, get all the hangers, etc. that will be needed welded onto the frame, then the body is coming off and the frame will get cherried out.
Aloha,
Willy

Steering and Suspension Page
2Loose
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2Loose
11-19-13 06:52 AM - Post#2400714    

Not a lot going on, other more "urgent" projects taking priority, but did manage to get the steering components cleaned up. They were badly encrusted with dirt, grease, who knows what:



After about a half a day of careful scraping and lots of scrubbing in the solvent tank, they cleaned up pretty nicely, the ball joints feel nice and tight, so am going to reuse them:



Now for some paint, new grease cups on the ball joints, and hang it back on the front end.

Am traveling for a couple of weeks, so it will get done when I get back....
Aloha all, and have a Great Thanksgiving!!
Willy

Steering and Suspension Page
2Loose
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2Loose
12-29-13 05:53 PM - Post#2411615    

Hard to make any real progress with the holidays, travel, family visiting, all that comes first in our famly, but I have gotten a few things done:

Got the steering linkage on and the steering arms were hitting the lower ball joints of the Heidt's assemblies:


Grinding a small relief into the steering arms, just enough to give the necessary clearance, was easy enough to do:


Got some grade 8 bolts with enough unthreaded shank to fill the holes in the steeering arms, then cut off the excess threaded stock flush with the spindles:


The brake rotors came from Heidt's with 7/16" by 1" wheel studs, too small and too short!



Pressed 'em out and pressed in some 1/2" by 1-3/4" wheel studs I got from Moser:



Bolted up nice and snug now!


Happy New Year to all!
Willy
wagonman100
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wagonman100
12-29-13 07:25 PM - Post#2411666    

Glad to see you making progress Willy. Glad to hear how important family is to you too. Looking good.

Happy New Year to you too.
Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier

carolinakid
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carolinakid
12-29-13 09:11 PM - Post#2411688    

Just a quick question, How do the caliper brackets attache to the spindles.
2Loose
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2Loose
12-29-13 09:50 PM - Post#2411699    

I will check that soon to make sure the calipers will fit with these 15" wheels, but in this pic there are four holes available, two visible here and two on the other side of the spindle:

If I were running drum brakes, the backing plate carrying the brake shoes and the related parts would use those four holes to mount up. With a disk setup the brackets that carry the calipers mount on the two holes in the rear. Here's a pic from when I first set it up on the bench:


I'll take some pix of that when I check that out, sometime this week...
Willy
carolinakid
Contributor
Posts 934
carolinakid
12-30-13 05:02 PM - Post#2411909    

Thanks for explaining and thanks for all the other great pictures. Look forward to following this thread and your work/build. Carolina Kid
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-30-13 10:40 PM - Post#2412004    

Had to put the new upper A-Arm rubber bumpers in place in the frame, so had to jack up the suspension to do that, hauled out the 4x4, jack and rope again....


and stuck that rubber bumper in there....


Didn't want that bumper sitting crushed for long periods of time while I worked on the rest of the car, so stuck a piece of wood in under the upper A-Arm to "take a load off...."


Fitted the caliper mount plates onto the spindles, they can be mounted on the front as easily as on the back with this particular setup, but I've always put them on the back...


Fitted the calipers on, with the bleeder screw facing up....

These are spec'd as 10.5" '79 - '81 Chevelle rotors and calipers, easy to get parts for...

Loaded in the brake pads....


And bolted up the 15" Torque Thrust wheels, they fit just fine, plenty of clearance!




So now I have to bolt the tranny up to the motor, and fit it in place and weld in the new side motor mounts.
Aloha,
Willy


LINK to my web page....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-15-14 01:29 PM - Post#2417035    

Been slow processing my pix and getting my web pages updated. Here's the motor "dummied up" in the car, Earl Williams side mounts in place, Super Comps fit nicely, today installing the cross-member for the tranny support....

Got a bunch more pix on my web page HERE....

With the LT1 distributor in front, I tucked it up pretty snug against the firewall. I'll be modifying the firewall to give me plenty of room to get the valve covers off, and will be checking clearance with the brake master cylinder.
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
01-20-14 09:55 AM - Post#2418512    

Not much to add, the motor mounts are partially welded in place, will weld some more on them after pulling the motor/tranny back out:

Meanwhile I cleaned up the old tranny mount that was in this car and located it for the T56, and welded it in place. This car had a "wheeezy" 350/350 combo leakin' all over the place when I got it, sold that for $350 to a guy who is now rebuilding it! The exhaust openings in this one just happen to match up with the Hooker collectors quite nicely!

I have a good Strange Engineering 3-1/2" driveshaft that had been in my '55 gasser, but I broke the front U-joint at the track and messed up the front of that one. With the T56 I can shorten it a little and weld on a new front yoke and be good to go!!!
Aloha,
Willy

My Webpage
4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
01-20-14 05:00 PM - Post#2418650    

  • 2Loose Said:
Been slow processing my pix and getting my web pages updated. Here's the motor "dummied up" in the car, Earl Williams side mounts in place, Super Comps fit nicely, today installing the cross-member for the tranny support....

Got a bunch more pix on my web page HERE....

With the LT1 distributor in front, I tucked it up pretty snug against the firewall. I'll be modifying the firewall to give me plenty of room to get the valve covers off, and will be checking clearance with the brake master cylinder.
Aloha,
Willy





A little extra room for the wiring harness might help too, unless the computer is going out side the drivers compartment.
hey, do you ospho the rusty stuff before you spray?
I love your work!

Stan
It's all good. mostly



leeb
Member
Posts 51
leeb
01-21-14 07:22 AM - Post#2418851    

Good looking work! I see a level sitting on top of the motor. I am going the same route and wondering if the motor should be level front-to-rear as well as side-to-side. I will be putting in the cross member for the tranny and I think the front-to-rear leveling will impact the drive shaft angle. Should the motor be level front-to-rear?
Really like the pictures.
2Loose
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2Loose
01-21-14 02:10 PM - Post#2418959    

No, you actually want it to aim the motor/tranny somewhat down in the rear. Try to aim the centerline of the motor/trans to the pinion shaft on the rear end, with the rear sitting at normal ride height. If you were to pull a straight string or centerline from an imaginary crankshaft centerline exactly to the differential, with the differential angled up to match that centerline, I usually set it 1 to 2 degrees up at the trans (going from from trans to driveshaft u-joint angles down 1 to 2 degrees) and match that at the diff by setting it a matching 1 to 2 degrees down from that imaginary centerline (angles up going from the dif to the driveshaft. That's called phasing the driveshaft u-joints, and the 1 to 2 degrees keep the u-joint bearings moving a slight amount to they are not always in the same spot. Evens out the wear patterns.

I sometimes have to add steel angle wedges (I've had aluminum ones break, don't use them!) under the axle pads at the leaf springs to get that adjustment up or down at the pinion. With ladder bars it easy to adjust the proper pinion angle in to match the trans angle. Likewise with four links.

I haven't adjusted the rear end yet, it's pretty close, but will do the final adjustment with steel wedges, if needed, when the car is complete and at it's final drive weight and height. Right now I have a couple hundred pounds of barbell weights in the trunk, as the lid is off, no fuel tank, and no battery in the trunk, yet....

Here's a good reference pic:


Angle one must match angle two, and ideally be small. I've seen them at much as 5 degrees, and that can be a little noisy.
The bigger the angle, the more the instantaneous acceleration factor increases, producing harmonics felt as noise and vibration, as the driveshaft turns, and you want to keep that minimized.

Here's a good article on that....

Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
01-21-14 08:52 PM - Post#2419094    

Just a couple of pix, crawled under the car and took one of the tranny mount. A cobbled up pos the previous owner put in, but it's actually pretty solid, so I cleaned it up a bit and put it back in service under the tail of the T56 in my '55....



Now I gotta patch up a Strange Engineering driveshaft I broke in my '55 "gasser", and shorten it to fit in this rig...



After the brackets for the exhaust system are welded in place on the frame rails, the motor is coming out, and the body is coming off....



And, YUP, I'm still havin' fun....
Aloha,
Willy
models916
Valued Contributor
Posts 4785
01-22-14 05:52 AM - Post#2419165    

At ride height, the carb/FI base top should be level. That usually puts the tailshaft down about 3 degrees. Level carb is the most important thing. then make the pinion match the output shaft.
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts 27664
Rick_L
01-22-14 08:20 AM - Post#2419207    

The engine/transmission angle should be 4º down in back. relative to a level frame rail. The carb pad on stock and most aftermarket manifolds should be level when you do this.

But, the LT1/LT4 EFI manifold does not have any 4º surfaces on it. The top of the manifold is parallel to the crankshaft.
2Loose
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2Loose
01-22-14 11:01 AM - Post#2419256    

The car's frame was level side to side, but not front to back, the front was lower. Pulled a string from the pinion yoke center to the tranny yoke center and tried to get the tranny as close to zero angle with the string as I could. I don't have a driveshaft that fits right now, that would have been my preferred way to set the tailshaft height to get a good angle with the driveshaft, then adjust the rear axle housing if needed to match, getting the angles properly phased. I have a smaller pinion yoke on the rear end at the moment, need to change it to a 1350 yoke, then I'll take measurements between the two yokes to determine my desired driveshaft length. The rear yoke on the driveshaft is a 1350, so is the front, but it is damaged, so will cut that off and weld in a new one when I shorten that driveshaft shown above.
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
01-26-14 08:13 PM - Post#2420593    

Checked the rear yoke on the pinion shaft, it's for the smaller size u-joint bearings, I'm going to change it to a 1350 yoke. Found one on eekbay for $65, advertised as new, billet, shipping $9. Let's see what I get for that.
Badger56
Contributor
Posts 882
Badger56
04-18-14 12:05 PM - Post#2445684    

Will you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the t-56? I mean other than the hole for the shifter. Also are your mounts in the stock position or forward.


Thanks

Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts 27664
Rick_L
04-18-14 04:52 PM - Post#2445762    

  • Quote:
Will you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the t-56?



I had to raise my tunnel about 1-1/4" at the shifter. Tapering to nothing at the pinch weld. But most of the pinch weld flange has to be removed also.
Badger56
Contributor
Posts 882
Badger56
04-18-14 07:47 PM - Post#2445799    

Thanks. I just bought a t56 and escalade lq9 for my car and wondered how much work I have ahead of me

2Loose
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2Loose
04-26-14 08:31 PM - Post#2447932    

Got mine fitted in there without having to cut the tunnel, but will have to do the forward mount setup on the shifter.

I think the motor mounts I used set the motor down pretty low, and I pushed the tranny up as high as I could, and set the tranny crossmember mount. Have not measured the driveshaft angle back to the rear yet.

Am dealing with some early Harley Panhead issues at the moment, will get back to this one soon....l
Aloha,
Willy
mike56
Forum Newbie
Posts 96
mike56
04-27-14 04:11 PM - Post#2448194    

i appreciate you ongoing post and photos of the build.
Mike

2Loose
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2Loose
04-27-14 07:37 PM - Post#2448236    

My '58 pro street truck I finished in '98 blew the TH400, so had to pull and rebuild that, just got it running today.

My '55 gasser setup (blown Olds, 5sp Doug Nash) blew 2nd gear, rebuilt that, then blew the input shaft gear a week later, just got the parts for that, so now have to get that back on the road (Richmond Gear street 5 speed parts fit my Doug Nash 5 spd).

My three Harleys, a '59, a '60, and a '62 all need attention, just picked up a crate full of parts at a swap meet while visiting in Seattle, so back on those too right now. Good thing I'm "Retired"....

I'll be back on this one soon...
Willy
MPandC
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MPandC
04-28-14 10:14 AM - Post#2448381    

Willy, good thing you have nice weather, sounds like you were walking!
Robert


MP&C Shop Projects

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
07-06-14 10:37 PM - Post#2467168    

I got both trucks, the 55 4x, the 58 pro street, and the 55 gasser all running again...
YaHoo....

Now to work on the 55 Sport Coupe and the panheads for awhile...

Put a 1350 pinion yoke on the rear end, and measured the old driveshaft from the gasser to be shortened. Sent it to Strange, they will put on a front 1350 trans yoke for the GM T56, and cut and weld on a new 1350 rear yoke to fit the pinion yoke.

Then pulled the motor/tranny out so I could finish welding the motor mounts in, do some mods on the firewall to provide more clearance for the valve covers, cleaning smoothing and painting.

Yesterday pulled the T56 apart and swapped out the main shifter shaft for a modified shifter shaft from Keisler Engineering that I've had around for awhile. The new forward position of the shifter will clear the bench seat in my '55.

Wrote it up and it is here (Link) if you want a look...

Some highlights:
Pulled the rear tailshaft housing off, it also houses the reverse gear set and the 5th and 6th gear sets...


Removed all the gears in this portion of the case, reverse, 6th and 5th, then pulled the main gear case off the front trans plate:


One of the guys in our crew hauled home that "Wombat" sign from a recent trip "down under", no we don't have wombats on Maui....


You can see the long shifter shaft, it runs the full length of the gearbox. I pulled it out and installed the modified shaft I got from Keisler Engineering, which splits the shaft in half at the appropriate spot under the forward case inspection hole, and puts a piece of hardware in that will accept a new shifter and operate all six gears and reverse properly...

Unfortunately I forgot to take a pix of that modification Keisler did to the replacement shaft, will look for something I can find to show it.

The truth is, I misplaced the new shaft, and we were going nuts trying to find it so we could finish the job, I finally did find it, and it was getting late, so we buttoned everything back up and then realized we forgot to photo it !!

Stuck this short shift lever on it to check it out, it shifts good, hits all the gears it is supposed to. I'll find a nice curved shift lever to use in the '55....



Actually, that original main shifter shaft could be modified to the forward position if you had that piece that goes in that location to match up the two halves of the shaft after it is cut and a piece removed.

Now to figure out where to cut the hole in the floor for this shifter....
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
08-15-14 09:17 PM - Post#2477177    

Am laid up with some medical issues, so have not got much done on the '55 hardtop.

Got a Hurst stick that I've used before w bench seats, but the stick's thread was different from the 8-ball knob I want to use:


So I got a bolt that fits the knob, drilled and tapped it to fit the stick, put it together and put it on the tranny.




I've been playing around with some new software for web pages, this is my first attempt:
LINK to shifter page

Aloha,
Willy
4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
08-17-14 07:01 AM - Post#2477409    


Those large gear shift attachment nuts always bit my #3/#4 fingers because when I grabbed it hard....
I'd round them at least. A taper would be even more of a help in the long term. But then, I'm a wuss when it comes to hot steel and pain in general.

Hope your medical woes get taken care of and your back on your feet soom. Until then, we'll leave the light on for you.

Stan

It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
08-17-14 10:20 AM - Post#2477437    

Considered lock-tite-ing the bushing in the knob, cutting if off flush, and only using the 3/8" lock nut, still might do that. The way I did it was a "quick-n-sorta dirty" way, got it done anyway, I can change it later if it's bothering me with that big nut on there....

It's the "Big Nut" behind the wheel I'm most concerned about right now....
Actually, I "blew a gasket", it's a hernia that needs repair, but it's the third time in the last 10 years, gettin kinda tired of this....

Before the "gasket" blew, I did do quite a bit of work on the firewall, cold shaping it with hammers the way I wanted, took some pix, if I can find 'em I'll post 'em....
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
08-17-14 11:44 AM - Post#2477460    

Dang Willie, I feel your pain. I'm dealing now with yet another episode of my "rotten spine disease", and it looks like another surgery to extend the cervical fusion. This will make surgery number four on the cervical spine, along with number five already on the back. ALL thanks to 32 years in healthcare; I went into my career (X-ray-CAT Scan Tech) to help people, and this is what I have for it. Irony? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
08-17-14 02:11 PM - Post#2477518    

I hear ya Butch, had a bad lower back injury at work about 30 years ago, been pretty good lately, but I do have to watch what I'm doing when around heavy objects....
2Loose
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2Loose
08-17-14 02:17 PM - Post#2477521    

I did go beat on the firewall of the hardtop a bit,



Chalk marked it the last time the motor was in,
the driver's side went where I wanted it pretty easily....



But the passenger's side was being more stubborn,
might have to get the torch out....



Link to a new page

There will be some welding, filling in holes, smoothing, fresh paint....
More later....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
10-06-14 05:41 PM - Post#2489126    

it's been a slow recovery from my surgery, but am slowly getting back at it....
Am slowly bondo-ing that firewall, and am working with some new software on a new server for my project websites....


And when my wrist gets tired of sanding that stuff, I go pull old wire out from under the dash....


Some more pix here....

More later, I gotta go swap out the th400 in my '58 truck....
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
10-09-14 09:59 AM - Post#2489736    

I just put a new th400 "Ultimate Street/Strip" from Mike's Transmissions in Lancaster, CA in my 58 truck, it's working great, take a peek:
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
12-13-14 11:37 AM - Post#2505999    

Finally got back on the firewall job.
More bondo, more sanding, more primer, it was coming along, but I just ran out of time so finished it off. Not as pretty as I wanted it to be, but this is not a "show car", it's a daily driver, just want it to look nice and be easy to work on.

Started with this:


Which prevented me from pulling off the valve covers with the motor in the desired position:

Since it's an LT1, with no distributor in back, I wanted to push it as far back as I could when I set up the motor mounts.

This is what I ended up with after a fair amount of bondo and primer:


Still have some more work to do on the front end before I put the motor back in again, but I do need to check it out and make sure the valve covers will come off easily with this mod to the firewall.
Aloha,
Willy

MORE PIX HERE
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
12-13-14 02:02 PM - Post#2506026    

Wonder if your climate/heat would help with my spine; it's the ONLY place my wife would move to, and believe me, I've asked, many times. "Old Dudes Racing" sounds like fun! How's that Pontiac Tempest Project coming along? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-14-14 09:34 AM - Post#2506193    

Unfortunately, a rather severe (and unexpected) financial shortcoming caused the owner of that project to have to put it aside until his problem is resolved. It's under cover and waiting for him, we keep expecting the problem to resolved any day, but you know how it can be when lawyers get involved!

And he's got 4 nice projects going, that Poncho, a roadster, and two nice trucks, one is a '59 Ford F100.
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
12-19-14 11:08 AM - Post#2507547    

Did some more cleaning and painting, put the motor mounts on, ready to put the motor/tranny in and check the fit:


But got to looking at this old original automatic shifter linkage (think that's what it is), trying to decide to leave it or cut it off, as mine is a floor shift T56:


And this old style e-brake pulley and cable??


Merry Christmas,
Willy
raycow
DECEASED
Posts 27999
raycow
12-20-14 08:00 AM - Post#2507749    

If you plan to be buried in the car, cut off anything you don't need or want. If you think you might be selling the car at some future time, leave it on. I say this for purely selfish reasons: I might be the next buyer.

Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3196
WagonCrazy
12-20-14 09:12 AM - Post#2507772    

I whacked the shifter linkage mount off my frame when I converted from manual to auto trans....

It will end up being in the way at some point...

Bound to happen with a custom build like yours.

Whack it.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


raycow
DECEASED
Posts 27999
raycow
12-21-14 12:12 AM - Post#2507904    

Did you cut off the bracket for the Z-bar too? That's my usual gripe when I buy a car which a PO converted to automatic and which I want to change back to manual.

Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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WagonCrazy
12-21-14 09:21 PM - Post#2508155    

Yep. Ez to weld on again if needed.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-22-14 03:19 PM - Post#2508378    

What you see, is what I got. The Z bar was already missing.

I usually keep these parts after cutting, bag em, mark em, and keep them in a box marked 55 hardtop.

Since I'll be running a T56, I'll be running a juice clutch for that, so don't need to go looking for a Z-bar yet....

I was able to adapt the original 55 Z-bar that was in the 4dr (I turned it into a gasser), to work with the clutch on the Doug Nash 5 speed, it works great!

Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
01-18-15 12:32 PM - Post#2515788    


Cut all the body mount bolts (they were a rusted solid mess....), and got the body up off the frame....


Rolled the chassis out for a good look....


It will get ground down where necessary to remove the remaining fragments of the old original mounts I removed or the PO removed....


The frame is in really great shape, and will get a new paint job. I really like the Rustoleum black hammer tone, will probably use that, as I have already done the front frame/cross member with that paint....


Have a set of CalTracs I'm thinking of putting on, but I also really like the old style slapper bars, have had good luck with those over the years...


And a sway bar for the front....


It's coming along, but slowly....
Aloha,
Willy

More pix on my web page, please scroll down....
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
01-18-15 01:19 PM - Post#2515799    

How about a few shots of the rear end and spring mounts. The spring pocket kits require more work, and definitely cost more. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-18-15 05:49 PM - Post#2515860    

Butch I did not pocket the springs, as I did not want to cut the frame.

There might be some better pics earlier on my web page, I will look, but if you can zoom in on that photo above, you should be able to see it.

It has 2 1/2 inch lowering blocks in it, but I'm thinking of having the springs re-arched.

Found one:
http://2loose.chevytalk.org/55hardtopSPRINGS.html
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
01-18-15 10:24 PM - Post#2515928    

I've known a couple of guys that have done it the same way as yours has been done, rather than buy a pocket kit. I still have the rear axle pivots from the 51 Bus Coupe rear end; they would be perfect for the rear spring/shackle mounts, and then I have some special shackles meant for the front of a Jeep that a tow bar can also be attached to, and those would work for the front mounts. Then I was also in the process of swapping the stock spring hangers/mounts side-to-side to of the inside of the frame rails of my other 56 Deliverie's spare frame, but traded that Delivery project to a friend for a paint job on my truck. Then his adult son cut up that frame for scrap; I should have kicked his a$$ after all the fitting work I had done to it for the spring mount swap. He's just a Tyrannasaurus Ignoramous, and there's nothing that can be done about that! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
01-19-15 10:46 AM - Post#2516060    



Look at this pix taken when I was setting up the front end of my 55 gasser, I tried something a little different on that rig. Those are the springs I got off a 59 F1 truck along with the axle. I later changed to a '48 F1 axle that was a little bit narrower and fit better under my car. There were originally 6 springs on each side. After installing that setup, I got to wondering how well a QA1 setup would work along with one or two of the leafs on each side. With the 90 lb/inch coils, and two leafs, it works exceptionally well! And it is tunable. Running the Q's knobs in the middle position, tried a couple of settings and that one I like the best.
And I can do some height adjustments with this setup.

So, I am wondering how well this would work with a reduced spring pack and CalTraks on the rear end of my hardtop? Along with a sway bar? Anyway I think I am going to try it.
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
02-09-15 10:06 PM - Post#2522028    

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
How about a few shots of the rear end and spring mounts. The spring pocket kits require more work, and definitely cost more. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.



Here's a good shot:

2-1/2" blocks to get the ride height, will be reducing the spring stack to 2 leafs, and putting QA-1 coil overs on, and removing the blocks, and setting it at the same ride height. Also changing out the slappers for CalTraks. Will post it when I do it. And report on how it rides and handles.
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
02-09-15 10:10 PM - Post#2522029    

Got the frame "hung" up sideways so I can get at all the surfaces with a grinder/wire brush to clean it up.





Willy
chevybow
Contributor
Posts 904
chevybow
02-10-15 06:26 AM - Post#2522078    

Looking good Willie.......Donny
2Loose
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2Loose
03-11-15 07:20 PM - Post#2529964    

Had a bunch of delays, other business getting in the way, but am back at it again. Flipped it over to the other side to complete the cleaning, removal of odd brackets, welding up some holes, etc....



Posted a bunch of pix on my web page HERE

Next is Ospho treatment, then paint.

Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
03-17-15 10:02 AM - Post#2531430    

Finally got the frame scrubbed to my satisfaction, time for the Ospho rust treatment....


Let the Ospho rust treatment (phosphoric acid) dry for two days,
then did a good "rub down" with a dry piece of old bed sheet (no cotton pieces stuck on the frame that way)...


Then brush painted it with Rustoleum Black Hammertone....


I really like this finish. I had previously prepped and painted the engine bay
while the frame was still under the body and I was setting up the motor mounts and suspension....


More later....
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
03-17-15 08:02 PM - Post#2531594    

Talking to the tech at Summit Racing, I found out that there are two kinds of QA-1 coil-over shocks, one is called the Proma Star, the other is called the Ultra Ride. The tech said the difference is in the internal valving, the Proma Star is more for racing, the Ultra Ride is more for the street. I'm undecided on which one to order....

And taking measurements on the rear frame and the axle, looks like I could fit either the 17" or the 14" QA-1 in there, so am gonna have to go sit there with some Dire Straights blasting, and a coupla beers, and think this one out a bit....
Willy


Several beers later....

went ahead and ordered the 14" US402 so I can proceed with my rear end setup....
got the roller bearing thingie too that is under the springs...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-us402
W.
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03-19-15 10:44 PM - Post#2532233    

Just ran out of time to post all the pix I have here, but have been setting up the frame to fabricate the mounts for the rear 14" QA1's, and have lots of pix on my web page. Here's one showing how I compressed the rear leaf springs (deleafed down to two springs) down to the point where I want the car to ride when it's all back together, now I will weld up mounts for 14" long QA1's set at 13" long, leaving me with about 2.8" of total compression available out of a total of about 3.8":


Set the frame at 5" clearance at the front cross member:


Pulled the back down until the side rails at the lowest in front were at 5-1/2" off the ground, and at the rear, just in front of the spring mounts, it's 7-3/4" off the ground. A 2-1/4" rake, looks good to me:


At this ride height, with two leafs removed on each side in the rear, the remaining two take on a reverse curve, not sure what this means in terms of long term driving and handling, but I think it will be ok:


All those pix on my web page can be posted on this thread using the function, so am inviting comments from anyone on any of those pix on my web page, and what I am doing with this car.

LINK to my web page....

Aloha,
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-20-15 07:50 PM - Post#2532517    

With your "lever and weight setup", I'm surprised you did't have to load the front end down to keep it from wheelin'. You're just having way too much fun Willy. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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03-21-15 10:58 AM - Post#2532645    

Butch, I couldn't figure out a "quick n easy" way to compress the coil-overs in front down to the "runnin' height", so pulled off the front wheels and set the cross member on two blocks of 2x4 sideways, 3" total, about where my '58 truck is.

Nawww, to low for how I want this car to look, so stuck in another block, now 4-1/2", hmmmm, not bad, maybe another 1/2"?

so got a block that was 3-1/2" high and stuck another 1-1/2" block on top of that, hmmm, 5", looks pretty good there!

So that was a good start, when I started jacking the rear of the frame down as shown, I had watched that front to see if it came up any off the blocks, and was ready to put some weight on if needed, but it stayed put so left it as is.

Maybe I should try to lift the front just for grins to see just how light it is up there with this setup?

Now waiting for my 14" QA-1's to show up so I can fab the mounts.
Aloha,
Willy
JustinEntropyECP
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JustinEntropyECP
03-23-15 09:31 AM - Post#2533245    

Frame turned out great, and like the color of the car!
Justin Novick

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04-05-15 02:25 PM - Post#2537043    


A couple of the pix above show the leaf springs set up with two leaves.
I pulled those springs out to prep them for the CalTracs, split them apart and found some pretty bad corrosion on the main leaves:


I don't trust them so I got a pair of new spring packs and started working on those....
Same length as my original springs, and a five pack like the original ones....
These are supposed to be 2" lowered, one immediate difference, is the rear spring eye
on the springs is rolled up instead of down like the originals....








The spring alignment guides are easy to get off, as they are mild steel....




A couple of chisels and they spread apart easily, and can be hammered back into shape easily...




Not sure yet if I'll use two leaves or only one, will do the initial setup with just the main leaf, can always
add one more later, and might just be the short one as the second leaf....


The CalTracs go on the front, and there were these heavy duty poly bushings in the front,
and for some reason there were no bushings in the rear, so pressed out the front bushings,
and pressed them back in the rear....




The CalTracs have a steel bushing that goes in the spring eye in the front, so had to press those in ....


This steel piece fits the rotating piece of the CalTracs, and fits inside the steel bushing I pressed into the front spring eye....




Fitted onto the front of the spring....




Ran into a small problem on the second CalTrac, the smaller steel piece fits too tight into the steel bushing I pressed
into the front eye of the spring, will have to loosen that up a bit, plus where this all mounts under the frame,
needs some modification before it will fit properly.

More later....
Willy
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04-09-15 05:48 PM - Post#2538279    

Got both pivot pieces on the CalTracs moving smoothly and put them on with the new single leaf springs:


The CalTracs mounts at the axle hit the brake backing plates, will have to grind some clearances into the CalTracks mounts:


Had to cut out the front piece of the steel box the front of the springs mount into to allow the front CalTracs pieces to rotate properly:


This is the rear ride height I'm looking at. The frame is 8" high at the front leaf spring mount:


Might add this small spring upside down to act like an overload spring on severe deflection of the springs:


Only 3-1/2" to the bottom of the CalTracs rotation pieces, not good....


So I think I will move the CalTracs up to the higher hole on the rotation piece and trim off the unneccessary metal, that gives me 5" clearance, I'm a lot happier with that. This will also give me a faster action on the CalTracs, but I don't think that will be a problem:


Now I can setup my QA1's, they are 14" units, with about 3.8" total compression. So if I set them at 13" for this ride height, I'll have about 2.8" compression available, with 1" extension on hard bumps....


I won't be able to determine which coil springs I want to put on the QA1's until the car is back together and I can get the final weight on that rear axle. This ride height is with 100# sitting on the frame, I need to find out the total un-sprung weight back there also. But I'm guessing about 200 to 250# per inch would be about right for those QA1's.

More later,
Willy

link to my 55 HT pages
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04-09-15 07:39 PM - Post#2538308    





I've just learned that Calverts disagrees with my mode of installation of my CalTracs....

My reasoning was that with slappers the front of the spring pulls up, causing the slapper to connect with the front of the spring and stop it from moving.

With the CalTracs that same movement in the spring will push the connecting rod forward, rotating the front piece forward and connecting with the frame or a large bolt that I was planning on putting there in that space, weld a large nut on with a hole into the frame to make it adjustable.

From a mechanics of linkages standpoint it should work, just thinking about the Calverts method, I can see that turning it around to the rear for the contact bar, the CalTracs hits the front of the spring and pushes it down, pulling down the front of the frame (in front of the axle) via the spring mounts.

My setup will work, the difference is that the Calverts method contact bar pushes down on the spring, somewhat counteracting the springs tendency to "S" curve, and it pulls down on the frame via the spring, helping to plant the car. My method would also stop the springs from "S" curving, but would tend to give lift to the frame in front of the axle. Both would work, it would be interesting to find out if Calverts ever did any testing both ways to see which is best. Since I'm going to run basically a single leaf with coil-overs, that leaf spring is pretty dang flexible, wonder how much deformity downward that contact bar would put on my single leaf springs? As opposed to contacting and lifting the frame? Bouncing the rear of the frame up and down, and watching the action of the spring and CalTracs, they perform a lot like a mini four link setup. I suspect that with the current setup, dialed up to a solid contact before launch, it would act like a four link. From an engineering standpoint it's a very interesting question.
Hmmmmmm......
(Deep In Thought while Dire Straights rocks on....)
(With a good single malt in hand....)
Willy

Laters....
I'm forging ahead with my method, heck, they don't call me too loose for nothing....
AND, I just might make it work just fine...
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2Loose
04-10-15 09:20 AM - Post#2538409    

Have an email in to Calverts on this, looking forward to how they respond.
4dr 57
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04-14-15 02:51 AM - Post#2539310    

that's a good idea however, the contact patch of the bolt (in either direction) is so small that I feared for the spring. This is the main reason I did not choose to use them. my2 cents

Stan
It's all good. mostly



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04-27-15 05:40 PM - Post#2543070    

Was starting to see that too many problems could develop with the single leaf setup, so I added two more
springs on each side, and my modified CalTracs setup using the frame as the lift point, while from an
engineering standpoint I know it will work, there were possible problems with that approach that I didn't want to deal with. So I turned the rotation pieces around as Calverts intended....



And added the 2-1/2" lowering blocks...


This caused the bottom plate under the springs to hit the rim of the brake drum, so had to trim that a bit....



Checking out different shock mounting locations for the QA1's, this is the location I used when I originally
set up the narrowed 9" rear back quite a few years ago...

I think it will work, but also looking at coming off the rear side of the suspension somewhere....

More Later,
Aloha,
Willy
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05-05-15 09:40 PM - Post#2544969    

Did some more work....
Took the lowering blocks out,
moved the U-bolt plates around and welded in a bolt for the lower shock mounts,
and a few other things....

more pics HERE (scroll down)....
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
05-06-15 10:54 PM - Post#2545239    

Dang Willy, I need some of your energy! Must be something in the Hawaiian water, pineapples, or snakes that helps out with that? Keep up the good work, and posting your projects for all to see. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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05-09-15 12:02 PM - Post#2545872    

It's the local herb, Butch, but ya gotta gotta give it respect, occasional use only....

I was in a legal herb shop in Bothel (WA) recently, and tried something called "purple haze", it was definitely comparable to our own backyard product....
But ya gotta give it lots of respect, just like a good single malt....

Did some more work on mounting the rear QA1 coil over shocks:





More Pix Here....

Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
05-09-15 04:33 PM - Post#2545926    

Not so sure about the "herb"; I was apparently one of the few people against initiative 502 brought by the voters (marijuana and same sex marriage), and was surprised it actually passed. It really does't matter to me personally, and I guess to each their own. I guess the Hawaiian "snakes" comment did't land (no snakes in Hawaii; or so I've been told). It looks like you're working to make the shock bar removable. Keep er' up. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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05-10-15 09:22 AM - Post#2546089    

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
...... It looks like you're working to make the shock bar removable. Keep er' up. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.



Yup, "just in case" removable, ya just never know, and two grade 8, 3/8" bolts on each side should be plenty to carry a coupla hunnert lbs of weight on each side, and QA's give me adjustability on rear ride height, and can crank up the preload when necessary to add more capacity easily when carrying extra load (maybe a coupla wide bodies in the back seat?). Will start with 100 lb/inch coils and have a pair of 150's on hand if needed. Just thought I'd try the concept and see just how well it works. I did that on the front end of my solid axle '55 gasser, worked out great!

Of course the adjustability of the shocks are great also, from a soft ride to a pretty firm ride is 16 clicks, try 'em all, you learn a lot about how the car/truck rides by playing with it.

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05-10-15 09:02 PM - Post#2546233    

Before and After on those rear lower shock mounts:





More pix HERE....


Now to finish off those rear top shock mounts....
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05-15-15 11:00 AM - Post#2547422    

Cut some 1/4" steel tabs for the top of the shocks....



MORE pix here (pg 9), scroll down....

Have the shock mounts done now, and starting work on a panhard bar for the rear end....







and MORE pix here (pg 10), scroll down....

Then everything comes apart again for paint...
Aloha,
Willy



56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
05-15-15 02:43 PM - Post#2547455    

There's that removable shock bar!I guess I thought the coil shocks were going to be used all along; even got used to seeing it mocked up that way, so now it looks "odd". I'm watching this as I may be doing something similar to my Bracket Car (full size 68 Biscayne with coil spring rear end) when I get to that stage, so your photos are helpful. I am Butch/56sedancdelivery.


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05-16-15 02:27 PM - Post#2547669    

The springs are on order, haven't arrived yet. My buddy had a set of the correct size I could set on there for clearance checking, but they are 250 lb/in, way too stiff for what I'm doing. The new coils should be here any day now....
Nick P
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Nick P
05-16-15 05:55 PM - Post#2547702    

250 is about right really

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05-17-15 01:30 PM - Post#2547831    

I donno Nick, even with two leafs removed from the rear spring pack on each side, it's still pretty stiff. Won't know until I get it back under the body and with all the runnin' gear back on, as to how much more spring I might need on the QA's.

I expect it to sit quite a bit low, will jack it up to the desired ride height with a coupla guys in the car and weigh the additional lift needed from the coils. I'm guessing 200 lbs on each side, 400 total, will be needed, so that's two inches of preload on each side with 100 lb coils.

And if that is correct, but the ride is a bit soft, exchange the 100's for the 150's and preload it by 1-1/3" on each side, same 200 lbs, but a stiffer ride.

Won't know until the very last thing though, full gas tank, etc etc....
Willy
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05-17-15 01:42 PM - Post#2547833    

Me and my buddies sat there for quite awhile last Fri. nite, beer in hand, discussing the panhard bar idea, and ideally where it should be located to get the best results.

One comment about mounting it fairly high like I am proposing, is that between that high mount point on the axle itself, but above the axle on the left side (the frame mount is going to be on the right side), and the two leaf springs down under the axle, the axle is pretty much constrained to only move up and down. As far as rocking the body to one side or the other relative to the axle, not going to happen, the panhard bar, triangulated with the leaf spring mounting points at the axle, will pretty much keep the axle parallel to the frame rails and, much like a sway bar, keep axle movement pretty much just up and down. At least that's what it looks like to us.

The panhard bars I have on the front of my '55 4x4 truck, and the '55 gasser does cause it to corner pretty flat, plus the parallel ladder bars on the rear of the gasser have that effect also, there's not very much body roll at all on hard cornering with the gasser.
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05-31-15 11:29 AM - Post#2551165    

Finally convinced myself to try a sway bar first on the rear axle. But will install the mounts for the panhard bar, and will leave the bar out for now. Then I can always try it out later if I want to, or if I still see tire sidewall rub on the frame with the sway bar. Two bolts and it's in.

Ordered a Hotchkis rear swaybar setup for my '55 and installed it. It's not the standard position for a swaybar, as my coil-over shock position prevents that, but I think this setup will work just fine.





There's a bunch more pix on my website....
Aloha,
Willy


A bunch of pix HERE (scroll down)...
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06-11-15 12:20 AM - Post#2553713    

Have been on the run, two other projects, a 58 chevy pro street truck exhaust rebuild after 17 years, and lotsa minor stuff on the 55 chevy gasser. But did pull the rear parts off the 55 hardtop axle, painted and put back, here's one pix, others at the usual place, scroll down for latest.
Aloha,
Willy

here



cnbell
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cnbell
06-11-15 09:20 AM - Post#2553818    

Looking good Willy....
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

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06-12-15 10:33 AM - Post#2554078    

Started setting up the clutch and tranny to the motor, then will install in the frame....

Found I was missing the flywheel/crank bolts,
and the clutch/flywheel bolts, so have some new ones coming....

Meantime, used some old bolts I had on hand to set it up, also want to put some long style dowel pins in the block, and need to find my clutch alignment tool, it's stashed away somewhere around here....



The original LT1/T56 clutch setup was an external hydraulic slave cylinder with a standard clutch arm and release bearing, I dug around in my storage shed and found the original stuff, the slave cylinder looks pretty messy, I might go check out what a new one would cost....



I also found in my storage shed, this Tilton brand hydraulic release bearing,
but it doesn't fit over the sleeve for the old style release bearing, and it looks like it needs to be mounted some way (see the four mounting holes), and I don't see any easy way to do that....

I'd probably have to take the transmission apart and drill and tap into the front of the tranny case to make it work, and remove that sleeve that is pressed into the front of the case....





More later....
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
06-12-15 01:26 PM - Post#2554123    

Ugh oh!!! Willie's messing with clutches again. Seems we've been down this road at least once before??? I'd stick with the factory hydraulic clutch before attempting the Tilton unit. What will you do with the clutch pedal master? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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06-13-15 11:11 AM - Post#2554295    

Clutch MC, I'm looking around for alternatives, I have a '55 oem pedal setup for a stick shift, got it from one of the CT members, so need to install that, then find an appropriate MC to mount on the firewall. I have the original '93 MC, but it doesn't match up very well with the firewall on the '55, so I'm just looking around. Any suggestions??
Willy
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06-14-15 10:36 AM - Post#2554508    

Decided to stay with the original '93 Camaro hydraulic clutch setup at the slave end, too much fabrication required with the Tilton, although it would be nice to have a completely internal slave cylinder on this tranny.

Looking through my parts bins, found a brass pilot bushing for a big block Olds (425/455), checked the dimensions, it's the same for a Chevy both sbc and bbc. Got a bolt out of the bolt box the right size, adjusted the nut to put some bolt inside the bushing, put a small amount of silicone grease inside the crankshaft hole, and tapped the bushing in, just enough so it is flush with the crank surface surrounding the hole....



I also had a pair of the longer dowel pins for locating the bell housing, I like those, as they give more room to begin the alignment when bolting up the tranny to the motor. But the original dowel pins are refusing to come out easily, so will get more aggressive in removing them, like welding nuts onto them and with a helper, twisting them and tapping hard on them, luckily this block has access holes behind the pins where I can get a punch in there to pound on the pins. So far this has been met with total resistance....

Pix later....
Willy
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06-17-15 08:54 PM - Post#2555501    

With a buddy helping me, we welded large nuts on the old dowel pins, and while they were hot, put an impact gun on them, and twisted them while a buddy pounded on them through a hole in front of them with a long, heavy duty punch. They slowly began to turn and eventually came out. This one was almost all the way out. I do this right after welding, while they are still hot.





Then I cleaned out the holes, applied a small amount of silicone grease to the inside of the holes, and tapped the long dowel pins in all the way....



I recently had to rebuild the Doug Nash 5 speed in my other '55 (a gasser style build), after I destroyed the input shaft gear, so I have a nice Chevy input shaft to use to align clutches...



It does a very nice job aligning the clutch plate with the pilot bushing...



The clutch release bearing (throw-out bearing) for this '93 LT1 (5.7 liter) is a bit unusual, and I am having a difficult time finding a replacement, as this one is noisy and I don't want to use it. My local NAPA dealer doesn't even list it. I can't go any further with this until I can find a replacement. Even online, I'm told they just are not available.





It's a hydraulically operated clutch with an external slave cylinder. The original slave cylinder seems to be ok, we shall see.



More Later....
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
06-17-15 09:31 PM - Post#2555508    

Years ago, when I was building my front engine dragster, I had to have a 1/4" thick, aluminum, block plate/firewall made. I had to get longer alignment dowels also because of the plate, but used Moroso hollow ones that I could pass wiring through. I did't want to drill any un-needed holes in that block plate (it was't cheap), so the Moroso pins came in handy for that purpose. That was about 1980. I still have the engine and 5000 RPM stall, Powerglide, torque converter from the dragster. The engine has been in three more "cars" since then, including a short stint in my daily driver truck during the 90's, that I still drive today! Interestingly, today I was thinking how I'd like to have a front engine dragster again. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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06-21-15 11:21 AM - Post#2556383    

Butch, it's interesting you are thinking that way, the 502 in my '58 pickup has been a bulletproof motor for 17 years now, when I get this HT done, have been thinking of putting together a dragster, rebuild that 502 (stock 454 crank, large bores) into a bigger stroker to put in the dragster, and put a very nice small block in the '58. Might never happen, but fun to think about it.

Back to the '55:
I spent a lot of time online looking for a new throwout bearing, and finally found one at ebay. It came in 3 days, on Friday, and my buddies and I bolted everything together and put it in the frame on "Fender Friday" (our weekly get together with beer and BBQ). But now the drive shaft I ordered from Strange Engineering is too long. I still have a copy of the order sheet, it clearly states 53-1/2", the one they sent me is 56" long. I'll call them on Monday.

I had sent them a damaged drive shaft from my '55 Chevy gasser, it has a shorter gearbox and that drive shaft was 56". The rear u-joint yoke was damaged on that one, (I blew it up drag racing) and I had asked them to shorten it to 53-1/2" and put a new yoke on it. They called after receiving the damaged drive shaft and said it was also slightly bent, and was not repairable, so I had told them to just make me a new one. But obviously they ignored the order sheet and made a replacement for the damaged driveshaft. It's their mistake, let's see how they handle it.

Just got off the phone with Strange Engin. They are working with me to correct the problem, they're a bunch of good guys!

Here's how it sits now...





Now to finish the motor (starter, water pump, ignition, efi, alternator, PS pump, pulleys and belts) and add the exhaust system and fuel system, and as much else as I can think of before putting the body back on.

Am I having fun? You bet! I've never had the time before to do this much detail on a car, and on my favorite, a '55 Sport Coupe, I'm a lucky guy...

Aloha,
Willy
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06-25-15 10:12 AM - Post#2557453    

I'm going to be away from this project for awhile, I sliced the back of my hand pretty badly, severed some finger tendons, having surgery tomorrow to try and fix that, but will not be using my left hand for quite awhile until it heals up!

And I don't think I'll be driving my gasser during this time either, unless I can figure out a way to steer with my left when shifting, without disturbing the healing process!

But my '55 Chevy truck is an automatic, I can still drive that....

At least it wasn't my right hand!
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
06-25-15 12:58 PM - Post#2557489    

Dang! That's too bad. Hope the surgery goes well, and you're not sidelined for too long. Must have been difficult to type your posting. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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06-25-15 01:36 PM - Post#2557495    

Yeah, Butch, I'm back to 1 finger for now....
knightfan2691
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knightfan2691
06-26-15 06:13 AM - Post#2557625    

  • 2Loose Said:
...I sliced the back of my hand pretty badly, severed some finger tendons, having surgery tomorrow to try and fix that, but will not be using my left hand for quite awhile until it heals up!



Aye, very sorry, Willy ... thoughts/prayers en route....


Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com
1979 & 1989 Caprice Classics | pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve
"I'm on a wheel of fortune with a twist of fate" __ Bee Gees __ 'Alone'
cnbell
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cnbell
06-26-15 09:26 AM - Post#2557667    

Wow, sorry to hear that Willy.

Did it happen while working on the car ?

Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

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06-28-15 10:03 AM - Post#2558016    

I'm embarrassed to say....
I was cutting 3" exhaust pipe on my steel chop saw for an e-cutout setup for my '58 pro street chevy truck
(https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/322924/)
and just barely bumped the back of my hand against the 14" abrasive cut off wheel while
it was still spinning. It cut deep and got the middle finger tendon, I could see the tendon before the blood covered it up.
Oooof and Ouch!
It's really slowed me down!
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
06-28-15 11:32 AM - Post#2558039    

Grinding wheels and saws tend to pull you into them once they get ahold of you, causing even more damage. The thousands of X-Rays I did on those injuries in my career. Tendon repair can be tricky; you can't scar the tendon or sheath up with the repair, otherwise the tendon won't slide through like it's supposed to. Microscopic surgery in a lot of cases. I used to know a hand surgeon that was the best in the Seattle area, but the volume of work is such that he finally retrained to orthopedics. That, and it'd very tedious working under the microscope. Good luck with your surgery Willy! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


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cnbell
06-29-15 10:16 AM - Post#2558247    

Man, hate to hear that. Amazing how quickly a cut off wheel can cause serious damage. I've had my run in's with them over the years but never anything as serious as yours.

Good luck on the surgery, hope you're back at it soon.
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

2Loose
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2Loose
07-15-15 10:29 PM - Post#2562057    

Thanks for the comments Butch.
Surgery took 2-1/2 hrs, he said it was a bit messy in there, but thought it would heal up pretty well.
I might get full use back by next year. Am trying to work one handed, progress is pretty minimal!

Meanwhile, I'm learning to drive & shift the gasser one handed, a challenge, lucky it was my left I injured!
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
07-16-15 08:50 PM - Post#2562260    

You're back! Good that it went well. Hang loose.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
12-09-15 08:20 PM - Post#2594542    

Got a "BeCool" front end system, too shiny for me, looking at blacking it out. Will post pix first, it's just to blinking blingie for me....
Heck, I'm a farm boy, whatta I know...
Willy
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2Loose
01-30-16 01:01 PM - Post#2605493    

The injured left hand is still not working too well, about 50% I'd guess, but I'm doing things, just a little slower...
And of course two of the other rigs developed issues that needed attention, like blowing 3rd gear (again) in the gasser, and having brake problems in the '58 pickup, so been working on those...

But I pulled out the accessories, still on an old LT1 block, and looked as how to fit them on the new LT1 motor in the '55. I do see problems.

The first thing I tried to work with was the water pump, but it turned out to be badly rusted inside, so am looking for a new one.


Brackets to fit AC compressor, Alternator, and PS pump on this LT1 in a '55 Chevy seem to be seriously lacking. March Performance seems to have the best looking setup, but they are $eriously expen$ive.

Am looking around...

Any ideas out there?
Aloha,
Willy

More HERE
2Loose
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2Loose
02-02-16 11:18 AM - Post#2606186    

Got a new water pump installed, and put the headers on, a few small problems with the headers, like touching the steering box on the left side, and the grease nipple on the right side steering idler arm:










I'm working on it...
Willy

More HERE
2Loose
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2Loose
02-02-16 06:33 PM - Post#2606291    

By rotating that steering idler arm, you can see how much clearance I have. I'll drill, tap and relocate that grease zerk.


And ground off the corner of the steering box for clearance. May need a bit more, we'll see...


Aloha,
Willy

More HERE, scroll down
56sedandelivery
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Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
02-02-16 07:55 PM - Post#2606318    

If the engine was just 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch lower..................I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
02-02-16 08:31 PM - Post#2606326    

Interesting thought, Butch, letsee where that leads...
Willy
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
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2Loose Home Page
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2Loose
02-17-16 01:11 PM - Post#2609566    

These are the accessories I have, but they do not fit on the new motor...

The AC compressor hits the new motor mount on the right side, and the alternator hits the right side valve cover. Looking at alternatives, this setup from March Performance (MP) looks like the best fit...

I have a discussion going with MP to try to get a good fit for my setup.
Aloha,
Willy
rcr3
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rcr3
02-18-16 05:09 AM - Post#2609702    

Happy birthday!!!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab





55 Shaker
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Posts 1512
02-18-16 06:42 AM - Post#2609728    

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WILLY!!! Enjoy your special day.
The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!

2Loose
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2Loose
02-18-16 04:36 PM - Post#2609823    

Thanks Guys,
Took the '55 gasser out for a run, had the GoPro running, was gonna put it up on youtube, but can't get my laptop to recognize the SD card !!!

2Loose
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2Loose
02-21-16 11:37 AM - Post#2610422    

The March "Outward Mount" setup shown above, for the LT1 motor, uses the Corvette version of the crank balancer (or damper), as it is mounted further forward than the Camaro version is. Mine is the ATI Super Damper Camaro version, but I've learned from ATI that the only difference is the flanged hub itself, as shown below, so I have a Corvette version of the flanged hub on order to replace my Camaro version:



So I need to swap out that flanged hub for this longer Corvette version when I get it:



And according to both March Performance and ATI Racing the balancer will work with the new March accessories system.
Aloha,
Willy

More here...
scroll down

2Loose
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2Loose
02-25-16 07:09 PM - Post#2611517    

March Performance not helping me much with this order. Just want brackets and adjusters and idlers, they want to sell me new accessories when mine will work just great! They want to sell me pulleys when I have the right pulleys on all the accessories. I just need brackets and tension adjustors and idlers and am having a difficult time getting them to specify just that.
Let's see what happens. My opinion of their customer service at this point is pretty bad!
Aloha,
Willy
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2Loose
03-02-16 08:02 PM - Post#2612755    



Kept working with March Performance, got the order pared down to the essentials, no pulley covers, no water pump cover, just functioning parts only. Choices on finish were clear over brushed aluminum, chrome, and black. I went for black, as the final color scheme for this car is red/black. Anything shiny will get color sprayed over it. Anyone know anything about these plastic sheets they put over metal? Seen them do whole cars? Maybe do my alternator and any shiny parts? Red or Black, of course. My favorite colors.

Here's what I have coming:
20931-08 alternator bracket
20932-08 ac bracket
20933-08 ps bracket
20934-08 idler bracket
20140-08 alternator relocator bracket
208a-08 alternator pulley
618-08 ps pulley
P410 polished ac compressor
P315 ps pump
420-08 reservoir
P3222 hose kit

The hose kit should attach to the reverse flair connections on the 500 steering box, and cut and fit fittings on the other end to the pump, and the reservoir of PS oil.

I'll use my '93 Camaro alternator, and will find out how well their PS pump and their AC compressor work. I like to use Vintage Air, have had good luck with them in the past, so will check how their stuff matches up with the AC compressor I'm getting from MP.

Challenges, ahh yes, I love 'em...
Willy
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2Loose
03-05-16 03:01 PM - Post#2613261    

Removed the steering idler arm assembly and took it apart...



And found that the "upgrade" ball bearings have been added, replacing the OEM bushing system. But the bearings are worn, dry, and have not had grease in some time, so a new ball bearing set is on order from Danchuck, should be here any day now...

In the meantime, I need to drill and tap to relocate that grease fitting where it will not hit the #4 header tube...
2Loose
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2Loose
03-09-16 09:28 AM - Post#2614204    

The parts from Danchuck arrived, they are almost identical to the old parts, so the 4 inserts in the new kit will not be used, as the old ones are still in good shape and are pressed into the steering arm and the drag link.



The one exception is that the bearing adapter on the bottom of the idler arm at the frame has a grease zerk on it, the new parts do not, but this grease zerk hits one of the header pipes, so I pressed it out and rotated it 90 degrees or so toward the motor so it would clear the header pipe, and pressed it back in....



Cleaned up, fresh grease and new bearings on the frame mount end, now to do the drag link end....



More Later...

Update,
Discovered that the drag link at the idler arm does not have a grease fitting, so am drilling and tapping for that, here's some pix....





Aloha
Willy

More Pix Here....
2Loose
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2Loose
03-16-16 08:37 PM - Post#2615888    

The March Performance parts showed up, this is the install diagram:



Here's the parts that came today (below), there's only one set of idler rollers, there should be two, let's see what March says about this, I can't make this work with only one set of idlers, look closely at that diagram above....









More Here...

Aloha,
Willy
cnbell
Deceased
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cnbell
03-17-16 02:26 PM - Post#2616019    

Looks like a nice kit.....

I used the Vintage Front Runner system, nice set up as well.
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
03-17-16 03:48 PM - Post#2616043    

  • 2Loose Said:
Removed the steering idler arm assembly and took it apart...



And found that the "upgrade" ball bearings have been added, replacing the OEM bushing system. But the bearings are worn, dry, and have not had grease in some time, so a new ball bearing set is on order from Danchuck, should be here any day now...

In the meantime, I need to drill and tap to relocate that grease fitting where it will not hit the #4 header tube...





I pack mine same as a wheel bearing. Takes longer, may last a lot longer!
It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
03-18-16 10:47 AM - Post#2616169    

  • 4dr 57 Said:
.....I pack mine same as a wheel bearing. Takes longer, may last a lot longer!



I do too, makes sure the bearings are thoroughly greased, but will still hit all the grease fittings with a grease gun before hitting the road for the first time...


  • cnbell Said:
.....I used the Vintage Front Runner system, nice set up as well.



Unfortunately, the Vintage Front Runner system is not available for the Chevy LT1 motor series. That front mounted Optispark ignition setup will not work with any of their systems, I checked them out, as well as a whole bunch of others. March Performance (MP) is the only one with a system that works with the LT1, and I needed the Corvette LT1 front crank pulley with their system, as it locates the serpentine belt further forward then the Camaro LT1 crank pulley does. I'm using an ATI front damper, and had to swap out the Camaro flanged damper hub for a Corvette version in order for these parts to align properly using the MP setup.

MP has admitted they screwed up by only sending out one set of idler rollers, they have another set on the way so I can complete this installation.

We'll see just how well it all works out...
Willy

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2Loose
03-21-16 07:52 PM - Post#2616902    

Test fitting the March Performance (MP) parts on today...


More HERE....
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
03-24-16 07:01 PM - Post#2617559    

Played around with the power steering pump orientation, started out with this as indicated by March Performance:



But there are obvious problems with the hose connections and the a-arm mount and the header tubes...

so tried this:

Still have hose problems with the alternator and the header tubes...

so tried this:

I can make this position work....

Improved the alternator mount, as for some reason MP sent me
an extra adjustor rod adapter, so I used them both....


And changed the mount for the AC compressor to this:

Spacers will be added on that bolt each side of the adjuster rod...
Aloha,
Willy

More Pix HERE....
2Loose
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2Loose
03-26-16 11:01 AM - Post#2617869    

Got some more work done....






Had to do a bit of remedial work to correct some deficiencies in the way these MP brackets were set up, and had to wait for some parts that were not shipped with the initial order. But I'm pretty happy with the way the setup is turning out.

Still waiting for the new Corvette style LT1 flanged crank hub to arrive from ATI to replace my Camaro hub, which will relocate the damper further forward and align it with the MP LT1 "Outward Mount" pulley system.

The Camaro LT1 hub I'm using here is temporarily located in a forward position in order to facilitate the fitting of these other MP components.

Lots More Pix HERE....
Aloha,
Willy
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
03-27-16 07:04 PM - Post#2618206    

It looks good. But I see no water pump pulley? How is that powered? is it electric?
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
04-03-16 06:26 PM - Post#2619423    

  • WagonCrazy Said:
It looks good. But I see no water pump pulley? How is that powered? is it electric?



It's an LT1, a 93 out of a Z28 I bought new and totaled about 5 years later, kept the motor and tranny out of the wreck. I got lucky and walked away from the wreck, nobody can figure out how...

LT1 motors have an Optispark front mounted ignition setup driven off of the cam, and the water pump wraps around the Optispark and is directly gear driven off of that. So basically it is driven off of the cam.

This is not a very good picture, but the Opti is the sickly yellow looking item just above and behind the crank balancer...

and just above that sickly yellow portion on the aluminum housing you can see a stub shaft sticking out...

It is splined and drives the water pump...


Part of the reason nobody wants to make brackets to fit accessories on an LT1/LT4 motor, compared to other SBC motors, it's a pretty special fit. So far I found only March Performance who would do what I needed, and I tried everybody I could find!!

In the meantime my '58 prostreet Chevy pickup is giving me fits, had to pull away from this project for awhile....
Aloha,
Willy
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
Some Photos
2Loose Home Page
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55.4x4truck;58.prostreettruck
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WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
04-04-16 06:16 AM - Post#2619482    

Ahhhh.....now I understand how that waterpump is driven.
It keeps the front clean (one less pulley).
What's wrong with the 58 truck?
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


Chevrobert
Valued Contributor
Posts 3603
04-04-16 11:29 AM - Post#2619522    

While visiting Art "Old longboarder" last year,
his friend Kelly came by.
He had an electrically powered water pump on his '56.
First one I'd ever seen,
don't know much about them,
BUT...,

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/csr-perf o...
Bob
'64 Impala SS
'77 Pontiac Ventura SJ
'85 Lincoln Town Car
Ain't to proud to think out loud.

4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
04-05-16 02:13 PM - Post#2619745    


Beautiful pictures I take it this car will have power steering? cool!
Stan
It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
04-13-16 10:06 AM - Post#2621363    

  • WagonCrazy Said:
.......What's wrong with the 58 truck?

The 18 yr old exhaust system was rusting out, non coated headers, etc, got some new coated headers and put in a whole new exhaust system. The new headers are routed much closer to the pan/tranny, which also puts the left side right up next to the under floor master cylinder. First day out it boiled the brake fluid in the piston chamber dry without me knowing it during a fairly long run without touching the brakes. Coming up to a busy stop light, wow, no brakes!!!
Lucky there was a wide grassy medial strip and I was in the left lane, into the grass and down shifting (th400) to low and then to reverse, got it stopped without hitting anything or anybody or wrecking the tranny!!! Flatbed trip home, and of course waaaay too many of my buddies saw that trip home on the flatbed!
Once it cooled down the brakes were back! No problem with the brakes, so I wrapped the exhaust next to the master cylinder with hi temp exhaust wrap, that seems to have solved the problem. Also got some high temp brake fluid, I need to flush out the old stuff and put this new stuff in.

But it has started eating fan belts, 3 belts in 3 weeks, the last one lasted a half hour. That one wrapped itself around the flex fan, bent one blade, and started eating into the radiator, no leak yet but a close thing. Pulleys all look aligned, don't see what is the problem! Just got a new flex fan, will put that in with a new belt and see what gives. Also am going to sand paper the pulley surfaces, they are all pretty shiney looking, polished surfaces, want to rough them up. The water pump and alternator and power steering pump all turn by hand easily, don't see anything hanging up, nothing has been changed in the last 18 years, so just can't figure what is up with this. Maybe the NAPA v-belts I'm using aren't worth a damn these days??

The serpentine belt I got for the Lt1 in the hardtop is NOT a Napa belt, March Performance recommended strongly against the Napa belts....
Got a Goodyear belt instead.

But since this is my main rig to haul my surfboards and my one man outrigger Hawaiian ocean racing canoe, I haven't been out on the water much this last couple of months. Need to rig up another ride to haul this stuff...


  • 4dr 57 Said:
.....I take it this car will have power steering?.....

Yes, put a model 500 steering box on and it looks good for clearance, etc, and hooked up to the steering parts no problem. Just need to plumb the hoses and hook up the Ididit steering column...



4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
04-14-16 12:57 PM - Post#2621626    


Whoa! TF heads...with straight angle plugs?
Who makes those headers? What are you running for a master cylinder/ Thanks. Great Surf Wagon!
It's all good. mostly



2Loose
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2Loose
04-14-16 02:00 PM - Post#2621652    

It's been awhile since I bought them, and I can't find the receipt, but....
I'm pretty sure the headers are Hooker Super Comp full length # 2112-1HKR.
It's a snug fit but I got them in and clearing everything with a minimum of adjustment and without having to put any clearance "dents" in the headers.

Haven't picked a master cylinder yet, will need to make that choice and purchase soon....

Meanwhile, ATI sent the wrong hub for the revised crank damper setup that I need....

My Camaro LT1 hub is on the right, according to ATI that left hub is a blower drive hub for a small block Ford, don't think I can get that to work here...


That's the Ford hub on the right in this pic....
Larger OD crank snout, different drill pattern for the damper mount....


The give-away was this part number on the new ATI hub, ATI says it is a ford small block blower drive hub....


But the box it was shipped in had the correct part number on it for the flanged hub I need for the Corvette LT1 motor...


So now I have another delay while I ship this part back and wait for them to ship me the correct part...
Aaarrrhhhggg!!!
2Loose
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2Loose
04-19-16 07:42 PM - Post#2623068    

Family issues have kept me away from this project, and I really miss it, I need to get back on it.
The problem with the balancer flanged hub was a downer, and ATI is taking care of it, the "correct hub" is supposedly being shipped to me as I type this.
And it will get done...
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
04-23-16 12:49 PM - Post#2623832    

Finally got the correct ATI Corvette LT1 flanged crankshaft hub for the damper today. It is quite a bit longer than the Camaro hub...



The holes were all in the correct location, and the damper bolted up to the hub correctly....





Now to see how well it aligns with the March accessories mounting system...
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
04-29-16 10:36 AM - Post#2624997    

It turns out that this new ATI LT1 flanged hub is seriously too tight for the crankshaft.

As the older ATI LT1 (Camaro version) fits normally with no problems on this crankshaft snout, the problem is with the ATI hub.

Right now I have a broken bolt inside the crank from trying to install the assembled damper with the new hub, and a stripped damper puller from trying to remove this hub after breaking the installer bolt.



I've had this damper puller for many years,
it takes a serously too tight hub to cause this center bolt on this puller to strip the threads like it did on this one...


Here's some sketches from the first install attempt, showing that I still needed to go about another half inch to get it on all the way, that's why the crank pulley didn't line up with the accessory pulleys...


Now I have to disassemble the damper from the hub, and heat the hub to try to loosen and remove it, and then remove the broken bolt stub from the crankshaft...

Am I having fun yet???
Willy

More Photos HERE....
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
04-29-16 08:31 PM - Post#2625136    

Can you use some longer bolts on the puller where it attaches to the hub, in order to get "better threads"? My hub puller is the same one; I bent the threaded shaft trying to remove the dampener on a 454 a few weeks ago. I had to go with a pneumatic impact gun to keep from bending it. I don't have a dampener installer tool, and use the 2 inch thick piece of 3 inch round bar, and a BFH to "tap" them on. I wedge a block behind the crank flange to help protect the thrust surface/bearing. Good luck getting the dampener/hub and the broken bolt out. That's one bolt I've never broken (knock on wood), thankfully. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
04-29-16 09:55 PM - Post#2625152    

I got the dampner off with the new puller I bought yesterday, and was able to very carefully drill and "EZ" out the busted bolt, will post pix soon...
Now to find out why it was to dang tight...
Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts 2420
04-30-16 06:39 AM - Post#2625198    

Hello;
Made off shore?
I see lots of great looking parts that eithor don't fit right or don't work as intended they all share the same thing, "Made off shore"!
I also know that off shore producers, (this goes for car parts to the fruit and vegetables you eat) are making it more difficult to "find" out where they come from!

Bruce
2Loose
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2Loose
04-30-16 05:40 PM - Post#2625366    

It turns out that ATI is making the latest "Super Damper"s with an "undersized" interference fit, requiring a machine shop to hone to fit on a Sunnen rod hone.

Here's an excerpt from a document on the ATI web site...


OK, a visit to my local machine shop on Monday...
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
05-01-16 10:28 AM - Post#2625484    

Here's the bolt that busted off in the crank while trying to pull the damper onto the crankshaft snout...
That's a grade 8 bolt...


More pix HERE...
cnbell
Deceased
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cnbell
05-02-16 10:40 AM - Post#2625733    

Wow, you must have been putting the torque to that bolt !

Did you have a four foot pipe on the end of the ratchet ?...
Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell

2Loose
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2Loose
05-02-16 09:26 PM - Post#2625890    

Just a real long flex handle when it came time to switch over from the ratchet....

Today:
Quite a few hours with #100 gray wet/dry sand paper, then smoothing with #600, took out about 0/0008" to 0/0010", then did an assemble with just the flanged hub and assembly lube....
assembly lube on the 7/16 sae threads inside the crank snout also, used a 5" by 7/16" bolt and kept adding spacer to push this on, tight but not abnormal in my experience...


2Loose
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2Loose
05-03-16 10:08 AM - Post#2626000    

The balancer is back on the hub, the serpentine belt is back on, and everything lines up just as it should...


more pix HERE (scroll down)....
drptop70ss
Member
Posts 24
drptop70ss
05-05-16 04:45 PM - Post#2626546    

Very cool build, I cant wait to get back to working on my 55!
I thought I was the only one still running LT1s, I put them in a few of my cars and more are in progress. Looks like a lot of hassle dealing with the aftermarket FEAD, I stick with the factory stuff. Only thing I have not tried yet is I want to see if I can make a vintage air Sanderson compressor work with the factory LT1 bracket.
Why wouldnt the factory FEAD work? Other than the valve covers I dont see any issues.

2Loose
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2Loose
05-06-16 09:17 AM - Post#2626690    

  • drptop70ss Said:
Why wouldn't the factory FEAD work? Other than the valve covers I don't see any issues.

I used the Earl's side motor mounts, they fit quite nicely, and use the more forward side mount holes on each side of the motor, where the accessory bracket also mounts on the LT1 Camaro motor in this picture. The AC compressor and the PS pump are mounted closer in to the motor and tucked in on the right side of the motor, causing interference with the headers and the motor mount and the upper a-arm mount of the '55, as well as the tall valve covers I am using. As I also have about six other projects going on, and did not want to take the time to measure, design, and fabricate brackets to try to mount the original accessories out of the way for this project, I started hunting around for brackets that would work. I did not know that this LT1 motor was considered such an "orphan". There is very little out there for accessory brackets for an LT1 in a tri-five Chevy. The longer damper hub for the LT1 Corvette pushes the belt and pulley location enough further forward that it is easier to setup the accessories with less interference with the motor mount, etc. If I wasn't so involved with these other projects, I would have loved to take the time to do my own brackets, but as I am working on this car in a friend's shop, I need to keep it moving along and get it finished. I recommend finding a Corvette LT1 balancer and starting with that if you are going to do your own brackets.

Here's what I was looking at when I started thinking "brackets",I pulled this out of a totaled '93 Z28 Camaro (mine!)....

Starting at the balancer, and going left and up, there is an idler, the AC compressor, the PS pump, and the alternator. I'm certain that none of that would have fit in my '55 chevy without extensive modification, or a complete redesign of the brackets and accessories setup. Just taking some simple measurements I could see that it would hit dang near everything in the 55, cross member, motor mount, header, upper a-arm and mount, valve cover, so I started looking for alternatives. I'm sure others have run into this same problem, with that Optispark and forward mounted water pump causing interference with many of the easier routes for the drive belt. I got turned down by at least six manufacturers of alternative bracket mount systems as soon as I said "LT1 in a '55 Chevy". March was the only one I could find with a system that actually worked.
Just for comparison:


I started out with just an order for the basic brackets, in black, but as I proceeded I added an AC compressor and a PS pump, just seemed quicker to get the job done. I did not expect to run into the problems I did, like them shipping the wrong part, and then finding it was intentionally undersized and needed honing to get a proper fit. That was rather annoying, to say the least!

If you do take on the brackets project for your Lt1 in a trifive, I'd love to see you post it here where we can all follow along.
Good luck,
Willy

drptop70ss
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Posts 24
drptop70ss
05-06-16 06:44 PM - Post#2626785    

I guess I have been lucky so far! Other than frame notches for the A/C compressor I have put the LT1 in a 70 chevelle, 68 chevelle, 65 442, 47 cadillac ( G body suspension), and a 41 cadillac (jag front suspension), and two Ford F1s with no issues using the GM brackets. I make my own engine mounts so when the time comes I will sit the engine where it has the most clearance. From the look of your pictures it looks like I would have to raise the engine some but not too much. Those aftermarket brackets look great but dont fit my budget


2Loose
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05-10-16 11:52 AM - Post#2627424    

It's my first LT1 job, and if I had known what I was going to run into, probably would have found an older style motor and gone with that. Plenty of oem brackets in my parts bins for the older motors. And that's what I'm used to. It's a done deal now though, time to move on and get the rest of it done!

I do admire that you've fitted so many of these LT1s into so many rigs. I have a '70 Buick Skylark stashed away for a future project, looking at that massive engine bay it looks like plenty of room to stick just about anything I want in there...
2Loose
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01-18-17 08:55 PM - Post#2672178    

No, I haven't forgotten this car, various problems with my '55 4dr gasser, and my two trucks, a '55 Chevy 4x4 and a '58 Chevy pro streeter, and trying to get my '62 panhead chopper I've had for over 40 yrs back on the road, have kept me pretty busy....

Of course you married guys will recognize the "honey-do" list, I do have to put time into that every day....
The '62 panhead if you are interested...
http://www.wheelsmaui.com/content/540cae6cc053d /62...

But I will finish that beautiful hardtop....
Aloha,
Willy
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07-24-17 11:06 AM - Post#2701222    

Had to drop this project for awhile, some health problems, and I managed to break my left arm, kinda slowed me down a bit....

As my arm gets stronger, and feeling better, I'm starting to get back onto the '55 HT project...

Lookin' at why the power steering pump is out of alignment, with this March Performance setup I bought...
The pump sits about 1/8" too far forward....
It sits just below the alternator, and closer to the motor in this pic...


These spacers, 0.316" thick, came with the March Performance LT1
setup, but they are obviously too thick for this particular setup with
these particular heads and block. Everything else seems to fit just fine
now that I have the dampner problems sorted out....

I had a variety of allen head bolt length available to get
a good fit with the proper spacers....

Picked up a dozen ss flat washers, these are 0.050" thick....


Behind the idler rollers and bracket, is the bracket for the PS pump,
that's where the spacers have to go to align the pump....


I started with two washers, 0.100" spacing, wasn't quite right,
added another washer to each location, 0.150" now....


It looks good, don't think I can get it much closer....


These LT1 motors from the mid 90's were a bit of an odd duck, with the ignition (Optispark) mounted directly behind the water pump, and both driven directly off of the cam....
498 chevy
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498 chevy
07-25-17 10:37 AM - Post#2701381    

hi don't feel bad. Had same problem on gen 1 350 sbc with the power steering pump.It didn't line up on the march serpentine pulley system neither. Had to machine spacer's to make it work.
http://www.picturetrail.com/webe

WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
07-26-17 10:22 AM - Post#2701535    

Great to see that your back out in the garage Willy.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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07-26-17 05:26 PM - Post#2701582    

It's a slow go, the broken left forearm was in 3 pieces, Doc said a couple more months before it is back "up to speed", but at least I'm able to do a few chores....
HYPR
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HYPR
07-28-17 03:58 AM - Post#2701799    

Willy, Sorry to hear about the arm and hope it is healing up well. You can milk that for the honey do's for quite awhile if done just right.
I managed to break or rupture the index and middle finger tendons in my left hand a few months ago and have no idea how I did it. Doc said it looked like a crush injury. It has limited how far I can bend the hand with my fist closed. I have been doing the ice/heat and compression combined with stretches for a few months now and have about 80% use back.
Good to hear you are still pushing through though and can't wait to see you in September.
I will have to schedule a trip your way this coming spring.
Bob
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!

2Loose
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10-19-17 12:39 PM - Post#2711383    

The broken arm is pretty well healed, but still quite a bit of pain, choosing to just ignore it and trying to get back to work on the Sport Coupe project....

Time to hang the fuel tank and install the fuel system....

Dug out the fuel tank, pump and other parts I've had
in storage for some time now....


Using all Aeromotive parts for an intank efi style fuel pump system...

WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
10-19-17 02:27 PM - Post#2711401    

Willy! Good to hear from you. Glad you're back out in the garage building again. Go man, go...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
10-20-17 11:31 AM - Post#2711498    

That hole in the back of this fuel tank is for a fuel gage, any ideas out there for what I should look for in a sending unit that will fit that hole and this tank correctly ??

2Loose
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2Loose
10-20-17 07:11 PM - Post#2711543    

Finally figured out how it was supposed to fit....

The front mount will fit in nicely with my sway bar frame mounts....

Some slight modification required here....

Another view....

This will be easy....

Gotta cut a 3-1/4" hole for the Aeromotive fuel pump and fuel well....

And will cut and fab a removable piece of the trunk floor over the fuel pump....


More Later....
Willy
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
10-23-17 05:32 AM - Post#2711793    

Does the tank have to sit so low? Can you raise it up a bit? Or does the trunk floor actually sit that low? (I'm only familiar with the wagons, which the floor sits 3 inches (or so) higher than the top of the frame rails).
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
10-25-17 09:43 AM - Post#2712118    

I got the tank from Earl Williams at Williams Classic Chassis Works in La Verne, CA, they built it specifically to fit my '55 hardtop frame, with a top mounted Aeromotive pump that I'll install. Measured a friend's hardtop, as the body is still off of mine, and it looks like there is not a lot of room under there, maybe 2" max, and the top of the pump sticks up about an inch, so am guessing that it is about where it needs to be. Will find out for sure when I put the body back on.
2Loose
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10-27-17 09:49 AM - Post#2712360    

Got some more work done on the fuel tank....
I trimmed the front support angle to get a better fit on the sway bar frame supports....

If I mount the fuel pump in the front of the tank, left side of the trunk floor is the easiest to cut an access hole for future removal and maintenance....

So I went ahead and cut the required 3-1/4" hole in the front left part of the tank....

Cleaned up and smoothed the rough edges of the new hole....

I propped the tank up so that corner was lowest to keep the mess mostly located right under the hole, and it vacuumed out nicely....

Aeromotive supplied a jig to drill the holes for the new fuel pump....

The idea was to drill two holes opposite each other, then keep it located with these two screws while drilling the rest of the holes...

However, my drill bit went 'south' on the second hole, so I'm going to have to resharpen this bit after each hole, or go buy a couple more bits....
Probably will end up doing both....

More Later...
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
10-27-17 06:54 PM - Post#2712420    

Cleaned up the drilled holes for the fuel pump, inside and out....

Used the shop vac to suck out all the debris....

Put the inside ring with the screws in place,,,,
had to file some of the holes to get a good fit....

The nuts are removed after the inside ring is pulled into position...
It is a tight enough fit that it stayed in place....

The front of the tank is 9-1/2" deep (28 gallon tank)...
so the foam is cut to 10-1/2"....
The tank tapers to 9" deep in the rear....

And stuffed down in the tank and massaged back into shape and into position

Then the foam gasket is put on top....

The pump assembly is also assembled to match the 9-1/2" depth...

Had to readjust the foam fuel well a couple of times to get it right....

I think it's good to go....

Now to work up some front mounting brackets....


Aloha,
Willy
More Later
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
10-28-17 08:32 AM - Post#2712457    

What about a sump baffle at the base of the pickup? A sort of tray with sides to keep it full of fuel when cornering?
Do you suppose with your existing setup, that the foam will hold enough fuel for cornering, and not momentarily starve (creating air heading forward to the engine)? Just curious here...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
10-28-17 09:49 AM - Post#2712460    

A couple of guys around here have used this setup with good results, that black cup and the foam apparently work pretty well for that, There are four holes on the sides at the bottom of the cup, and I tried hard to follow Aeromotive's instructions to set that cup flat on the floor of the tank, with the bottom 'sock' on the fuel pump intake flat on the floor. By cutting the yellow foam to 10-1/2" tall, and carefully installing it in that 9-1/2" high tank space, I should get the best results. We shall see.

I wanted to put that pump at the rear ofthe tank, but the tank is tapered to the rear and is a half inch deeper in front, so I put it there.
Guess I'll find out....
Willy
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10-31-17 08:11 PM - Post#2712888    

Rolled the chassis out from under the body,
easier to work on the fuel system....

Loosened up the bolts in back, jacked up the front to cut some more
metal off the front brackets on the tank for a better fit....

While it was up, got in there and ground off paint, cleaned up weld areas....

AND fitted a piece of 3/16 to weld on as a bracket on each side..

Both sides welded on, tacked on while
clamped to the fuel tank to keep then located...

Man, this SS was the toughest stuff to drill I've ever run across....
Using Ace's best bits, I went through 8- 1/4" bits, and 4- 3/8" bits
and that was with a drilling lube and running slow speed, and resharpening
bits with a "Drill Doctor"....

Using cad plated 3/8" bolts, 3/4" long, with flat washers, cad plated, both sides,
a lock washer and a regular nut.

Will pull it out to paint the recent welds,
and I want to coat the welds on this SS tank....
2Loose
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2Loose
11-09-17 07:03 PM - Post#2713844    

Since I painted the frame with Rustoleum
Black Hammer Tone, decided to do the tank
with the same....

It took two coats plus a little bit here and there, but it looks good to go....

Just for grins, my shop space,
It's the OD Racing Team....
(Old Dudes....)

More Later
Willy
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2Loose
11-13-17 10:30 AM - Post#2714247    

Looking at the tires, and not happy....
They've been in storage for, what, 5 years or more??

The front left tire....
Do you see anything??

Here, I marked it with tape...

A close up....

I sure don't want to drive around on a tire like this....

Had some glaspaks from some past project,
stuck 'em in there to see how they looked...

More Later....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-20-18 03:10 PM - Post#2721618    

Have been traveling over the holidays, it sure is nice to get back home and back in the shop....

I need to figure out my fuel system...
I'm not familiar with these early 90's LT-1 efi systems,
Here's what I have to start with....

The motor is built up, 396 ci, ported heads, the plenum has been
port matched to the heads, and the throttle body end
of the plenum has been bored out to match a larger throttle body....

Some stock fuel rails, a 10 micron filter, a pressure regulator....

There's also a box of high flow injectors that are supposed to work with this motor....

The fuel fails match up to the plenum, don't see a problem there....

Here's a complete stock '93 LT-1 Camaro Z28 motor I can pull parts off of if needed....
But I'd rather leave it complete if I can....

Another view....

View #3....

One more....

I need to find instructions on how these systems worked,
and figure out what I need to do with mine....

In the meantime, I'll plumb in the fuel lines....

The Aeromotive fuel pump I mounted in the tank came with AN-6 fittings...

Changed 'em out for AN-8 fittings and put on the hose ends
I want to use to see how well they fit...

That ridge just under the hose ends was a very tight fit...
But I got them on....

Time for some hose....

I think this will work quite nicely....

Had some clamps and some old rubber hose around, so check out the fit...

Yeah, this will work....

Hung the hoses (a feed hose and a return) on the inside
of the right frame rail with clamps about every foot...

Had to route them around the body mount brackets,

Will put some protective hose on the fuel lines anywhere
they might rub on a metal bracket...

I need to pull off the right side header to drill and mount the last two
sets of mounting clamps...

Installing AN-8 fittings and plugs in the pressure regulator...

I had to change out the spring in this regulator,
it came with a low pressure spring for a carb setup,
and I needed the high pressure spring for the efi setup,
but that spring was much shorter then the carb spring,
and that short adjusting bolt was too short to use with
the high pressure spring, so I got two more bolts, the one
in the middle looked the best, so will use it....


More Later....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-20-18 03:14 PM - Post#2721619    

I've been traveling over the holidays, it sure is nice to get back home and back out in the shop....

I need to figure out my fuel system for the '55 Chevy Sport Coupe project...
I'm not familiar with these early 90's LT-1 efi systems,
Here's what I have to start with....

The motor is built up, 396 ci, ported heads, the plenum has been
port matched to the heads, and the throttle body end
of the plenum has been bored out to match a larger throttle body....

Some stock fuel rails, a 10 micron filter, a pressure regulator....

There's also a box of high flow injectors that are supposed to work with this motor....

The fuel rails match up to the plenum, don't see a problem there....

Here's a complete stock '93 LT-1 Camaro Z28 motor I can pull parts off of if needed....
But I'd rather leave it complete if I can....

Another view....

View #3....

One more....

I need to find instructions on how these systems worked,
and figure out what I need to do with mine....

In the meantime, I'll plumb in the fuel lines....

The Aeromotive fuel pump I mounted in the tank came with AN-6 fittings...

Changed 'em out for AN-8 fittings and put on the hose ends
I want to use to see how well they fit...

That ridge just under the hose ends was a very tight fit...
But I got them on....

Time for some hose....

I think this will work quite nicely....

Had some clamps and some old rubber hose around, so check out the fit...

Yeah, this will work....

Hung the hoses (a feed hose and a return) on the inside
of the right frame rail with clamps about every foot...

Had to route them around the body mount brackets,

Will put some protective hose on the fuel lines anywhere
they might rub on a metal bracket...

I need to pull off the right side header to drill and mount the last two
sets of mounting clamps...

Installing AN-8 fittings and plugs in the pressure regulator...

I had to change out the spring in this regulator,
it came with a low pressure spring for a carb setup,
and I needed the high pressure spring for the efi setup,
but that spring was much shorter then the carb spring,
and that short adjusting bolt was too short to use with
the high pressure spring, so I got two more bolts, the one
in the middle looked the best, so will use it....


More Later....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-24-18 07:28 PM - Post#2722025    

Fitting together the fuel and exhaust systems

Had to pull off this right side header to get a drill in
for the last two fuel line mounts....

The header is going to be close...

Yes, I'm going to need some insulation for those fuel lines
to protect them from the exhaust heat

Or, wrap the exhaust system to keep the heat away from the fuel lines...

More Later....
WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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WagonCrazy
01-25-18 06:50 AM - Post#2722066    

Good to see you out there tinkering again Willie.

Yes, wrap the section of fuel line where it's closer than about 3 inches to the header...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
01-25-18 10:26 AM - Post#2722091    

I need to learn about how this efi system works....
Think: '93 Camaro Z28, LT1 system, stick shift....
What are these ports on the rear of the plenum for?

Also on the left side....

And on the right side....

More Later....
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
01-26-18 07:16 AM - Post#2722188    

Not sure...but here's a guy selling one from a 93 with a bunch of pics on eBayHere

I think many of those are ports for the various sensors needed for electronic fuel injection setups.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
01-26-18 07:20 AM - Post#2722189    



Attachment: 97_LT1_intake.jpg (167.95 KB) 15 Views

57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
01-29-18 06:08 PM - Post#2722643    

Decided to block off the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Ports...
A ball peen hammer and sharp edges make cutting templates easy....

Gotta transfer that to some 1/8" plate....

Get the holes drilled accurately first....

And finish shaping them to fit the templates....

Paint next....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-03-18 11:49 AM - Post#2723198    



Trying to figure out how to connect these fuel lines on the fuel rails....
The rear tube is 3/8" and I'm told is the fuel in connection...
The front tube is 5/16" and I'm told is the fuel return line...
I've ordered an AN-8 connector for the 3/8" line,
and an AN-6 connector for the 5/16" line.

And a tee with both AN-6 and AN-8 connections for the fuel
return connections at the fuel PR valve...


The upper tube in this pic is the 5/16" fuel return line.
Under the fuel rail it is connected to that black device....
I'm guessing that device connects to engine vacuum??
This one is pretty old and gnarly, think I need to get a new one...


Any Comments?

More Later....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-07-18 10:50 AM - Post#2723651    

Thanks for the pix and info guys...

It's been rainy here, humid, it took these block off plates for the EGR openings in the plenum forever to stop being "sticky" so I could install them...


More pix of this fuel return setup at the fuel rail....


I'm trying to find info on exactly what this device is, it looks like a manifold vacuum
operated device to control fuel pressure in the fuel rails....


It's obviously not adjustable, and I'm trying to find out how it operates,
and what the specific parameters are, and if I can just dump it and
plug the hole in the rail? Or find another one that is adjustable so
I can tune it to my particular requirements?
After all my fuel pressure regulator is a constant flow return type, and is mounted right next to the motor, and feeds directly into those fuel rails, so I am trying to figure out just what this device does in addition to my Aeromotive PR, like maybe it adds additional pressure when the manifold vacuum drops??
Hmmmmm.....


These are the fittings I found to attach AN hoses to these fuel lines at the fuel rails....


More Later....
Bluemeany
Senior Member
Posts 831
Bluemeany
02-07-18 11:22 AM - Post#2723655    

Link
57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car

2Loose
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2Loose
02-07-18 11:29 AM - Post#2723657    

Not sure I want a non-adjustable PR on there for this setup, and it seems to duplicate my adjustable Aeromotive PR that will be mounted on the firewall next to the motor...

Just trying to figure all this out....


2Loose
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02-07-18 11:48 AM - Post#2723660    


I would think this Aeromotive fuel PR valve mounted right next to the motor would provice all the fuel control I need, and I think I can remove the stock, non-adjustable unit on those '93 fuel rails, and eliminate the fuel return directly from the fuel rails, but I am only guessing!

Aeromotive also suggests running two inlets to the fuel rails from a tee, and at the other end of the fuel rails, combine the outlets into the Aeromotive PR and then return to the fuel tank. That seems excessive to me for this particular application, the most likely setup from what I can see now, is to eliminate that stock unit on the fuel rail, plug that hole, and feed the fuel rails inlet directly from the Aeromotive PR unit.

The Aeromotive unit has a vacuum tap available, but I'm thinking I probably won't need to use it. Leave it at atmospheric sensing.
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
02-07-18 04:21 PM - Post#2723683    

  • Quote:
I would think this Aeromotive fuel PR valve mounted right next to the motor would provice all the fuel control I need, and I think I can remove the stock, non-adjustable unit on those '93 fuel rails, and eliminate the fuel return directly from the fuel rails, but I am only guessing!

Aeromotive also suggests running two inlets to the fuel rails from a tee, and at the other end of the fuel rails, combine the outlets into the Aeromotive PR and then return to the fuel tank. That seems excessive to me for this particular application, the most likely setup from what I can see now, is to eliminate that stock unit on the fuel rail, plug that hole, and feed the fuel rails inlet directly from the Aeromotive PR unit.

The Aeromotive unit has a vacuum tap available, but I'm thinking I probably won't need to use it. Leave it at atmospheric sensing.



Your logic is sound to me, but Ive' never plumbed in a system like you have before.

With my LS1 engine, the Fuel Regulator is at the back of the wagon, about a foot forward from the in-tank fuel pump. So the return line is very short. It just allows the properly pressured volume of fuel to travel forward to the engine, with the rest of it going back into the tank (via a short run of line).

Not sure why you would need to plumb your FR at the front by the engine. Why not back by the tank so you can eliminate the length of fuel sloshing between 2 lines along the entire frame rail?

In which case you could eliminate all that junk at the fuel rail as you mentioned.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


Bluemeany
Senior Member
Posts 831
Bluemeany
02-08-18 09:53 AM - Post#2723757    

It is very interesting to read through your posts on this build and see the problems that come up and your resolve.

I think both your Aeromotive PR or the stock PR, use the vacuum pressure input to properly regulate the fuel flow. Lower vacuum pressure requires higher fuel flow and conversely, higher vacuum pressure requires lower fuel flow.

Regarding the fuel return lines, your sketch in your previous post looks correct. Some of the return fuel dumps into the PR, and extra fuel returns to the tank. All this plumbing is extra work but keeps the system in balanced pressure and proper flow. Shortcutting might create problems IMO. I'm not an expert or have experimented the absolute necessity of the vacuum line or the routing of the return lines. My reasoning is that the factory would not include anything extra unless it is absolutely necessary.
57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car

2Loose
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02-08-18 10:17 AM - Post#2723760    

I have some of those same questions, am learning, will let you know as/if I can come up with some reasonable information.

The best I've been able to come up with now, is that this speed density efi system depends on very rapid fuel pressure adjustments as the fuel demand at the injectors changes. I'm now advised to set my Aeromotive pressure at 46 psi, mount it close to the motor, leave the Aeromotive vacuum port open to ambient pressure, and as that fixed fuel rail return pressure regulator is set at 42 psi, it constantly bleeds off 4 psi to the return line from the fuel rails, and the vacuum port will increase that slightly when the vacuum drops in the plenum upon acceleration, trying to offset a fuel lean situation at sudden acceleration. Hence the fuel return line at the fuel rails, and the slightly higher pressure feed into the fuel rail system.

At least that's my understanding at the moment, and this is all new info for me, I've never done an efi system before.
Willy
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02-18-18 06:32 PM - Post#2724814    

Lots of family visiting, difficult to get any real time out in the shop.

Still checking out the fuel efi setup, just how I want to try it.
vabeach56wagon
Valued Contributor
Posts 3134
vabeach56wagon
04-16-18 10:40 AM - Post#2731172    

Before it's too late, please consider mounting your lines on the exterior of the frame, as the NHRA used to require. I ran a similar AN-8 set on the wagon and crossed over the frame just aft of the upper control arm.

Relocated all brake lines to the outside of the driver side of the frame also.
Original builder of the Gobstomper - '56 210 9 passenger wagon now in other's hands. Current Ride is '69 X33D80 Z28 Camaro


2Loose
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2Loose
06-06-18 10:59 AM - Post#2736154    

Too many delays in my life right now, but am getting back on it and will post some pix soon...

I don't plan on racing this car, and with my adult kids and my wife driving it, I wanted the fuel lines protected by the frame rails in the event of a side impact on this car. I'll protect them from the heat, don't think it will be hard to do.

More soon...
Willy

UPDATE:
Finished fitting and hanging the mufflers, a pair of long body 2-1/2" glasspaks, will probably be loud !!!


MORE pix here
2Loose
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2Loose
06-21-18 06:01 PM - Post#2737863    

Too many delays in my life right now, but am getting back on the '55 HT project.......
Willy

UPDATE:
Finished fitting and hanging the mufflers, a pair of long body 2-1/2" glasspaks, will probably be loud !!!


MORE pix here

As I rebuilt the floors in the '55 HT as piece work, using galv. 20 ga, there's a lot of welding slag, etc underneath needed cleaning up...
So I have been laying under the body on a creeper, grinding, smoothing, seam sealing, and will do a fresh undercoat. Nasty work, head all covered, breathing protection, am covered head to toe with dirt when I scuttle back out from under there...



One of the rear wheel tubs cleaned and ready for seam sealer, then undercoating...


WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
06-21-18 09:41 PM - Post#2737878    

Oh man, that's hard work Willy. Especially the part where you have to get under there and then get back up off the ground.

You need a lift and or a rotisserie.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
07-30-18 10:02 AM - Post#2741493    

Spent most of the last month under the body, seam sealing and undercoating, a messy job, so didn't take any pix, just got 'er done....

In the meantime I bought some hi temp exhaust wrap to wrap on the fuel lines to protect them from the exhaust heat....

These fuel lines are inside the frame to protect them from any side collisions
in the event of a severe accident. With the fuel pump in the tank, these lines
would probably be pressurized in an accident, so I want them protected...


I've used this stuff before with good results....


Pulled the fuel lines off the frame and started wrapping....


Got a good tight 50/50 overlap wrap so I would have a double layer,
and used ss tie wire at the start and end, the frame clamps will work
just fine in between....
And I wrapped from the rear to the front so the overlap faces the rear,
less chance of anything catching a wrap edge and trying to pull it loose...


I had to 'adjust' the size of the hangers openings to fit the larger size,
still used some rubber hose under each clamp....


I did this also on my '55 gasser project, "Patches", it worked out just fine....


I also fitted new polyurethane body mounts, getting ready to put the body
back on the frame....

More later....
Aloha,
Willy
rcr3
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rcr3
07-31-18 01:31 AM - Post#2741539    

Nice work!
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab





WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
07-31-18 05:20 AM - Post#2741549    

Great to see you out there in the garage "wrenchin" again Willy. Stay with it...she'll be on the road again soon.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


56sedandelivery
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Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
07-31-18 02:34 PM - Post#2741591    

  • WagonCrazy Said:
Great to see you out there in the garage "wrenchin" again Willy. Stay with it...she'll be on the road again soon.


^^^^^ X II !!! ^^^^^ I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


ROUTE 55
Contributor
Posts 391
ROUTE 55
08-16-18 06:12 PM - Post#2743324    

vabeach56wagon - I just took a look at your picture folder "Chevy's in 60's & 70's" - It sure brought back a ton of great memories.

Love that old-school stuff

Dave
55 Belair HT 396-L78 BB, 4sp Muncie, 12 bolt Posi.

vabeach56wagon
Valued Contributor
Posts 3134
vabeach56wagon
08-17-18 05:50 AM - Post#2743365    

Thanks
Original builder of the Gobstomper - '56 210 9 passenger wagon now in other's hands. Current Ride is '69 X33D80 Z28 Camaro


2Loose
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2Loose
09-10-18 07:48 AM - Post#2745799    

No I haven't forgotten this project, the wife convinced me to go with her on a boat tour of the Great Lakes, we're at some place called Mackinac Island today, up at the top of Lake Michigan, hard to go work on my car when we're doing that !!
Soon though....
Willy
56sedandelivery
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Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
09-12-18 07:04 PM - Post#2746006    

At least you don't have to deal with the "big wind" where you are now. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
10-07-18 05:01 PM - Post#2748075    

Well, health, family, and travel have taken it's toll on my time, but I'm back at it...
Time to mount the body back on the chassis, and I chose to do it by lifting the chassis up to the body, starting at the rear, and bolting the back end on at the rear most body mounts, then lifting the front, bolting that, then putting in the rest of the bolts. It went pretty smoothly....

It's been sitting like this for some time now, while I completely went through the chassis, and rebuilt the floors, trunk and did the "mini-tubs"....


With jacks under the front of the chassis as well, I was able to pinch the 4x4, lift it up off the steel sawhorses, set the edges of the rear of the body on sawhorses, and remove the 4x4. Then lift the rear of the chassis, aligning the two rear mounting bolts, it all clicked together like magic....


If you look carefully you can see the left rear body mount bolt above, I was able to guide the rear of the chassis so those two rear bolts dropped right into the mounts...


The rear is fitting up just like it's supposed to, somethings gotta be going wrong here, it can't be that easy


Used an engine hoist to lift the front of the chassis up as it needed to go higher than my floor jacks would handle, it all went smooth...


Stuck the front body mount bolts in loosely with nuts, and put it all on jack stands to install the rest of the body mount bolts...


It all went together surprisingly easy and I 'm quite happy with the fit of the rear axle, wheels and tubs...


More later,
Aloha,
Willy

More pix here...
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
10-08-18 05:20 PM - Post#2748177    

I never noticed it before, but it looks like the firewall had been "massaged" to fit a big block at one time. Still following this build.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
10-09-18 09:26 AM - Post#2748228    

When I first put this motor in the car for a trial fit, the tall, custom valve covers hit the firewall when I try to remove them, can't have that...




So some "custom fitting" took place....
Now not a problem getting the valve covers off...



Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
10-10-18 09:13 AM - Post#2748332    

Realized I forgot to cut an access hole in the floor of the trunk for the "in tank" fuel pump and fuel hose attachments....

Crawled under and took some measurements and taped off the future "hole"...


I was able to slide that 14" carbide cut off blade in on top of the fuel pump, under the trunk floor, and also a wet towel to absorb any sparks, pieces of metal...


This should give me plenty of access....


Smoothed the sharp edges off and put seam sealer in a couple of open spots...


Now to fab a cover....
2Loose
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2Loose
10-11-18 09:34 AM - Post#2748437    

Had a little time to run to the shop with a piece of 16 ga. galv. sheet metal I had laying around, and cut it to 10" x 12" to fit over that 8" x 10" hole in the trunk, drilled it on a uniform pattern so it should not matter which side it up when ever I put it on. Had some #14 ss sheet metal screws around, 3/4" and 1" long, a bit over-kill but what the heck...

Drilled the cover with the smaller hole size initially to use as a pattern to drill the trunk floor prior to tapping the sheet metal screws into the floor metal....



Transferred two corner holes to the floor where the cover will go, then redrilled those two corner holes in the cover plate to the larger size for the #14's to slide through, then screwed down the cover with those two corner screws, then drilled the rest of the smaller holes in the floor using the cover as a guide. Then redrilled the cover holes to the larger size for the #14's...


Now I have to go do the initial tap of those #14's into the floor around the hole....
Think I'm gonna need a coupla beers to get this job done....
Aloha,
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
10-13-18 09:48 AM - Post#2748571    

Redrilled the holes in the cover plate to the larger size, tapped the screws into the holes in the floor, painted the cover with black hammer tone, and installed it....


2Loose
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2Loose
10-14-18 07:18 PM - Post#2748702    


Put it back on the floor just to see how she sits...
I love it !!!
Willy

More pix here...
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
10-15-18 10:25 PM - Post#2748794    

There you go! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
10-24-18 12:27 PM - Post#2749446    

Put the Ididit steering column and rag joint in,
hooking up to the 500 steering box,
the locking screws on the upper side of the
rag joint hit the firewall, some clearancing required...



The stock mounting bracket under the dash
is way too large, I'm going to have to modify
it or fab a new one to fit properly...



Yup, going to require some work here...



Any suggestions ?
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
10-28-18 04:45 PM - Post#2749801    

I have a couple of chrome plated, "split rings" that are joined together with Allen bolts. They measure 2-1/8 to 2-1/4 (depends on direction) inside diameter, and they're 3/4" wide. There are also some rubber cushions to help snug things up and prevent vibration. I have no idea where they came from; they've been in my misc. bolt box for years. If you want to try them, PM me your address and I'll send them out. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
10-30-18 10:27 AM - Post#2750003    

Thanks, Butch, I found the original rubber wrap that goes in under the clamp under the dash, going to try that. Been busy with household chores, hope to get back to the car today...
2Loose
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2Loose
10-30-18 02:38 PM - Post#2750029    

With some shims between the steering box and the frame,
I could get better alignment with the steering column,
but I'm too close to the headers already, so the steering
box will stay where it is...



This is the misalignment I'm referring to,
but that rag joint should be able to handle it ok...



I found this original rubber sleeve from the original
steering column, just needed to put in a locator
bolt to match the slot in the bottom of the steering column...



Everything bolted up quite nicely...


2Loose
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2Loose
10-30-18 02:42 PM - Post#2750030    

Dug out the shift lever and boot...


Screwed down the boot, lookin' good there...


Hung the clutch pedal, now to figure out how to hook up a juice clutch MC...
(the T56 has a hydraulic operated throw out bearing)


Pulled this new brake master cylinder off the shelf (for the brakes),
not sure how to hook up that compensating valve...


From the numbers here, it's been sitting on the shelf for about 10 years...


Got some work ahead of me....
2Loose
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2Loose
11-04-18 08:03 PM - Post#2750482    


I'll let you guys figure this out...
2Loose
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2Loose
11-06-18 11:27 AM - Post#2750616    

Oh, Wait, I need to pull that steering wheel hub back off so I can screw down the turn signal lever....


2Loose
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2Loose
11-12-18 11:59 AM - Post#2751164    

Back on my '55 hardtop project, I'll be using this diagram for the fuel pressure regulator hookup...


Fuel pump pressure inlet to the main PR on the left, controlled pressure outlet feed to the fuel rails on the right, return secondary PR feed from the fuel rails to the return line at the bottom of the main PR....


An alternative method would be to modify the fuel rails and put the return PR and return line out at the other end of the fuel rails, but I'm going to try it this way first...
-Willy-

More photos HERE...
2Loose
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2Loose
11-12-18 07:44 PM - Post#2751214    

Looking for the right size bolts for those fuel rails to the plenum
and noticed the plenum only had 4 rusty bolts, so dug out
some ss allen head bolts and washers, and installed them...



I've always had good luck with a copper anti-seize when using
ss bolts in aluminum heads...


2Loose
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2Loose
11-13-18 09:03 PM - Post#2751332    

Hung the main fuel PR valve and hooked up hoses, eventually it will probably need to be modified after the front fenders are on, but for now....

And no, that return line is not as close to the headers as it looks in this pic...


More pix here, (scroll down...)

Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
11-16-18 02:56 PM - Post#2751556    

I'm going to have to dig around and find out what all these ports are for,
These four are on the left side of the plenum...



These two are on the right side...



This one is on top of the front, right corner of the plenum...


2Loose
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2Loose
11-16-18 09:14 PM - Post#2751579    

Here's 8 old pix of the original motor,
freshly pulled out of the wrecked '93 Camaro Z28, LT1
















2Loose
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2Loose
11-23-18 04:47 PM - Post#2752222    

Got my hands on an original '93 Camaro shop manual, these two ports on the right side of the plenum are vacuum ports, the upper one is hooked to the original fuel pressure regulator vacuum port, which I'm going to leave open to the atmosphere for now, and will just plug this port, and the lower one in the old original pic is hooked to an "Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve"....
Hmmmmm....





The large port shown below is apparently a connection to the crankcase, and is setup as a "crankcase vent recirculation valve", which you can see in the second pic...
I think I might keep that also, but fitting the crankcase connection to a road vent tube like the older motors used would be ok too....



I think both the upper small ports are just vacuum ports, one is shown in the old pic as a brake booster vacuum connection....

I really have no idea what this hole in the top, front, right corner of the plenum is for, or what the device plugged into that hole in the second pic is....
(scratching the head....)




These rear ports I'd blocked off earlier, they are EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) ports, that I'm not going to use on this car...
The lower pic shows some of the hardware for that device...




More Later...
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
11-26-18 06:14 PM - Post#2752463    

Messed around some more with how the fuel hoses were laid out at the pressure regulator...


And bolted in a new Optima red top in the trunk...


MORE pix here....
2Loose
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2Loose
11-30-18 10:21 AM - Post#2752905    

I put a 90 hose end on at the inlet side of that fuel filter, looks a lot better now...
I'll mount that filter on the side of the inner fender when I put the fenders back on...

WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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WagonCrazy
12-01-18 08:44 AM - Post#2752989    

You're making great progress Willy. Stay with it...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
12-01-18 11:13 AM - Post#2753002    

Have one port on the right side open for a vent to the Optispark...


New parts are on order for the crankcase vent system, which uses
those two lower ports, plugged the upper ones for the time being...


And finally learned that this top port on the plenum is for a MAP sensor...


Pulled out all the wiring and electronic gear, and started scratching my head...


More later....
( I hope !)
2Loose
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2Loose
12-01-18 04:01 PM - Post#2753024    

My local Napa auto parts store had what is supposed to be
the correct MAP for this motor....


But it obviously needs a seal of some kind, which did not come with it...
So the search continues...


Pulled the new throttle body off the shelf to mount...


And found that there is a part missing underneath, now I need to
find out what else is needed and go find it. It did come with a
gasket for whatever is missing...
Hmmmm....

2Loose
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2Loose
12-03-18 11:27 AM - Post#2753202    

Here's a pic of an original '93 LT1 MAP sensor and seal,
looks like some kind of soft sleeve...

2Loose
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2Loose
12-05-18 11:26 AM - Post#2753488    

Found an old original MAP seal, but would much prefer a new one...
Will go back and hit up my local Napa store...


Found a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate in the scrap pile...


Cut out a cover plate for the throttle body hot water passages,
now I need shorter screws...

2Loose
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2Loose
12-07-18 11:42 AM - Post#2753752    

Managed to find some (metric) m4 size ss allen head screws for this cover plate, still a little long, had to trim them slightly to get a good fit, but it came out pretty nice, also used flat and lock washers under each screw....



More pix here (scroll down)
56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
12-07-18 04:22 PM - Post#2753777    

Please keep posting! I personally would't know where to begin on a project such as this; I just can't wrap my head around "modern fuel injection". Maybe this will help me understand it better.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
12-08-18 01:51 PM - Post#2753895    

Oh, I'm learning, and it's a steep learning curve !!

Worked up a list of sensors needed for this
'93 LT1 speed-density efi system:

1. MAT
Manifold Air Temperature
This fits in the air ducting in front of the throttle body,
I need to find one.

2. ECT
Engine Coolant Temperature
Not sure what this looks like or where it goes.

3. IAC
Idle Air Control
I think this goes on the end of the throttle shaft
on the throttle body, I need to find one.

4. TPS
Throttle Position Sensor
Again, I think this goes on the throttle body someplace,
I need to learn more about this one.

5. MAP
Manifold Absolute Pressure
Bought a new one from Napa,
it needs a special seal that did not come with it,
might have to just use silicone sealer.

6. Knock Sensor
I need to find the correct one and
where to mount it.

7. O2 (Oxygen) Sensor
I have one, need to weld a bung
on one of the header collectors for it
2Loose
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2Loose
12-19-18 02:40 PM - Post#2755039    

I've been slowly finding the parts I need online, most of them from Rock Auto...
but still need a body (housing) for the IAC (Idle Air Control) on the bottom of the throttle body.
My cover plate I fabbed isn't going to do it...

Found this on the evilbay site, but they refuse to ship to Hawaii/Alaska...

They must think we're not a part of the USA yet....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-19-18 02:41 PM - Post#2755040    

I contacted the seller, they agreed to mail it to me in Hawaii...
ROUTE 55
Contributor
Posts 391
ROUTE 55
12-20-18 06:40 PM - Post#2755155    

I agree with Butch. Also, I really enjoy watching your progress. Keep it up !


Dave
55 Belair HT 396-L78 BB, 4sp Muncie, 12 bolt Posi.

rcr3
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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rcr3
12-21-18 02:25 AM - Post#2755178    

  • ROUTE 55 Said:
I agree with Butch. Also, I really enjoy watching your progress. Keep it up !


Dave



+1
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab





2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-24-18 08:11 PM - Post#2755524    

Finally located some O-rings for the MAP sensor probe that will fit snugly in the plenum hole,
four fit nicely on the probe, it should be ok....


Cut the water heater off of the IAC housing, and got a new probe to fit it,
and cut my cover plate to fit around the IAC housing....


And with a lot of shopping around, I think I finally have all the probes and sensors I need....


I'm learning a lot, I just hope I'm learning enough to not make any serious mistakes,
Merry Christmas everyone !!
-Willy-

More pix here (scroll down)....
rcr3
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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rcr3
12-25-18 05:01 AM - Post#2755542    

Merry Christmas Willy !
'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab





2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
12-30-18 07:40 PM - Post#2756055    

Living on a small island has it's disadvantages....
Searched every store that has bolts and screws, and could not
find the ss allen head metric screws I wanted, so drilled it to the next size
for the 3 screws for the IAC and tapped it for 10-32 ss allen heads
with ss lock washers....



And the same for the TPS, with ss flat and lock washers....


Both installed with anti-seize, as this is ss and aluminum, want that anti-seize in there....
ROUTE 55
Contributor
Posts 391
ROUTE 55
12-31-18 10:47 AM - Post#2756123    

Your persistence and quality of work is a real inspiration to many of us here.

Happy New Year to you and to all of us on CT.

Dave
55 Belair HT 396-L78 BB, 4sp Muncie, 12 bolt Posi.

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-01-19 10:33 AM - Post#2756255    

Decided to re-tap the threads in the plenum for the throttle body with 5/16"-18 NC,
and to use the ss allen head bolts I have....

All of my taps are sets of three, with different starting tapers,
the one on the right is a bottoming tap for blind holes....



I like to use a cutting fluid to prevent any galling when cutting new threads...



Taped off all holes where debris from the work could get in....



The metric threads that were in this plenum very closely matched the
new 5/16-18 threads I cut. I'm not happy about doing this, but there's
enough solid threads here that it will work out just fine....


I considered bumping it up to a 3/8" fine thread, redrilling and tapping,
but that much bolt seemed like serious over-kill, and the way I did it still
had enough solid threads in there that it will be just fine !!

All mounted up with never-seize and ready to go....



HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL !!
And maybe I can get this rig running this year !
WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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WagonCrazy
01-01-19 05:06 PM - Post#2756291    

Fantastic hot roddin' there Willy! Glad to found a way to make that work. You're engine is lookin' gooooood. Stay with it.

Happy New Year.
Paul
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts 4636
01-05-19 10:48 AM - Post#2756637    

Mark told that these water pumps (the stock ones) both push (out side) and pull (return side.) otherwise they will cavitate and can cause the motor to over heat.So I hooked them up. It was still overheating. Found out that these motors need a reduction/restrictor in the out(side) so I added one using a NAPA valve that I leave open all the time. Other types are also available from JTR Publishing. Problem solved. BestWishes For a Great New Year!!

Things in the usvislands are still a struggle. It will remain so until the view of "what's next to be repaired, retored, fixed, (you know) is over and that long drink of water signifying well done take place that things will be 'back to normal.'
The Islanders have earned much respect by everyone who is and has helped, worked we dem. As the sister in law says, we just have to admit it is what it is and go on from there...never mind she taught the locals Shakespere in Calypso 55 years ago and has been 'der ever since.
Stan
It's all good. mostly



2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-06-19 11:22 AM - Post#2756718    

Swapped out the fixed pressure return line fuel pressure regulator for an adjustable one. I've used them on these motors in the past with good results.




2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
01-06-19 06:57 PM - Post#2756743    

Got the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
installed with four O-rings on the sensor probe,
that should seal it just fine....


Put in the check valve for the crankcase ventiliation system
with it's special rubber grommet, and the vacuum connection
for that....


And stuck the hose on it....


The only place on the block I can find for the
knock sensor was here down below the 5th
and 7th cylinders, I hope it's right....


I had to run a pipe thread tap in as the threads in the block
were pretty rusty, the sensor screwed in ok....
But it was a tight fit....

5Larry7
"16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
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5Larry7
01-07-19 07:40 AM - Post#2756774    

I put my knock sensors in the block drain bosses. I am not sure if it really makes much difference though. Larry
'57 210, 327 cid, Holley MPFI, 700R4, A/C & more.
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer.

2Loose
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2Loose
01-07-19 01:26 PM - Post#2756793    

Update on my list of sensors needed for this
'93 LT1 speed-density efi system:

1. MAT
Manifold Air Temperature
This fits in the air ducting in front of the throttle body,
I found one, need to figure out where to put it.

2. ECT
Engine Coolant Temperature
I found one, now I need to figure
out where it goes....

3. IAC
Idle Air Control
This goes on the bottom of
of the throttle body, I found one,
it is installed.

4. TPS
Throttle Position Sensor
This goes on the throttle body,
on the end of the shaft,
I found one, it is installed.

5. MAP
Manifold Absolute Pressure
Bought a new one from Napa,
it needs a special seal that did not come with it,
but I found four o-rings that fit nicely,
it is installed

6. Knock Sensor
I found one
and mounted it in a threaded hole in the block,
down next to cylinders 5 and 7.

7. O2 (Oxygen) Sensor
I have one, need to weld a bung
on one of the header collectors for it.
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
01-07-19 02:18 PM - Post#2756798    

Seems the knock sensor, that was originally on my 82 Silverado, was in one of the block drain holes. When new ones are installed, NO sealer, tape, or anything other that what comes on them, should be used. Course the truck no longer has any of the emissions stuff, other than a PCV valve; and it's far too old for testing in this state.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
01-08-19 06:52 PM - Post#2756924    

They won't check for anything in this state, Butch, and I don't know if I need it for this FAST computer system, but I'm going to try it, see what happens, I can always remove it later if I really don't need it...

Meanwhile....
Got the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor installed in a port
on the left side head between cylinders 1 and 3.


Then started working on hanging the new firewall pad on the inside under the dash...
2Loose
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2Loose
01-09-19 07:18 PM - Post#2756999    

I found out that this sensor is supposed to mount in the water pump, so I moved it...




Now I have to find the right sensor for the dash temp gage, which goes in the head...

Ran the battery cables up to the firewall from the battery,
along the right side of the floor...


Now I have to decide if I want to put the cables through the firewall
here on the right side...
where I will have to run them across in front of the firewall to the starter and block....


Or run them across the front of the floor on the inside to the hump,
which put them very close to the starter and block on the other side....


Hmmmmmm.....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-11-19 10:13 AM - Post#2757123    

Meanwhile, went hunting for a temp sensor for the dash gage...


Found one at my local Napa store...


I haven't done anything about what dash gages I want to run,
still looking around, maybe go all digital ??


Meanwhile, I learned that the knock sensor would perform better
down here at this location on the right side of the motor near the
oil pan, in front of the starter, so moved it here...

2Loose
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2Loose
01-20-19 12:23 PM - Post#2757805    

I did finish up the battery cables to the starter and engine block....

More pix here, scroll down...
2Loose
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2Loose
01-21-19 12:14 PM - Post#2757886    

My T56 tranny clutch uses an exterior slave cylinder, and I need to find an appropriate mc and figure out the clutch pedal linkage to function properly. The aftermarket mc's I looked at are mounted on the right side of the brake mc and pedal, using the cross shaft setup of the stock '55 under the dash, and where they go through the firewall, they are perfectly positioned to hit my header tubes !!! I'll post some pix when I get some. My current thinking is to find an appropriate sized mc that I can mount on the firewall on the left side of the brake mc, and fab the appropriate linkage under the dash from the pedal that is on the left of the brake pedal, through the firewall to activate it. Shouldn't be hard to do, but I need to figure out what size mc bore to use, and how much leverage I need at the pedal to actuate it correctly. Part of that is the bore of the slave cylinder, and how much movement it needs to actuate the clutch properly. All data I do not currently have.

Another big "Hmmmmm" to solve....
-Willy-
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2Loose
01-21-19 12:16 PM - Post#2757887    

All right, lemme see if I can get this posted
in one piece after way too many beers...

My T56 has a hydraulic slave cylinder on it,
so I need to come up with a hydraulic master cylinder
to operate it...

The aftermarket ones I've looked at for the 55 Chevy
comes through the firewall down low where the mechanical
linkage used to come through, but the headers I'm using
interfere with that location, so I'm looking at alternatives...

Look at that hole down on the car's right of the steering column,
that's where the original mechanical linkage came through, I
used that hole when I built "Patches", my 55 blown rat rod gasser...

Unfortunately it's way too close to the header pipe
for the heavily angled hydraulic system I've seen that is
designed to come down through that hole, so I'm
going to design my own system...


I have this master cylinder on the shelf that has a 7/8" bore and
a max stroke of 1-5/8", so I have to engineer a system for that...


This is the slave cylinder that came out of my wrecked '93 Camaro
on the T56 tranny, it is a 1" bore and 1-5/8" max stroke...


Here's the original clutch pedal, held in front of the firewall....
as you can see it crosses over through the brake pedal pivot,
and the original linkage came down through that hole that
is now too close to the headers for a hydraulic setup....


So I'm going to engineer adding a lever on the left side of that setup
to actuate that master cylinder, I need to find out the stroke required
for the clutch, then I can locate the master cylinder and how much
pedal movement and master cylinder stroke by locating the MC
at the proper location. The square of the diameters of the cylinders
represents the volume of fluid moved, that gives me a ratio of
0.77 to 1.00 with the mc at 0.875" and the slave at 1.00"

What fun !!!
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
01-22-19 07:54 AM - Post#2757943    

Willy,
I used a Tilton clutch MC for my nomad setup. (T56 trans) mounted about where your pic shows your mounting location.
Also fabbed up linkage and new pedal stop using the stock clutch pedal. (to limit the pedal travel so it wouldn't bottom out the MC beyond it's limit)
I'll get some pics and post soon.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
01-22-19 10:26 AM - Post#2757952    

Thanks, looking forward to it...
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
01-22-19 12:30 PM - Post#2757957    

Pardon the fact that these pics all posted at 90 degrees from how I took them...this site has limited pic attaching/massaging capacity.

Just to recap, I have a LS1/T56 6 speed out of a 2002 Camaro.
Yours may be slightly different...but here's what I came up with for mine:

The previous owner had fabbed a custom bracket for the outside of the firewall to install the stock clutch MC out of the camaro. The casting/mount holes sit about 45 degrees to the firewall. (not 90 degrees flat). So the rod sticks thru at an angle. He fabbed it to connect to the clutch pedal, but I didn't like how it protruded into the engine compartment because it interfered with other stuff.

So I came up with using a new Tilton 76-875
master cylinder.(1st and 2nd pic) Here at Summit
Bore size- .875
Stroke- 1.1 inches

Since that MC housing bolts flat (90 degrees perpendicular to the firewall), I just located it in a spot where it would stick thru and bolt up to the pedal arm on (under the dash). (3rd pic.) The 4th pic shows the pedal stop I made, to limit the pushrod/plunger distance (to avoid burying the plunger too far).

Lastly, I added a "remote slave cylinder bleeder line" to the slave cylinder so that I could do the bleeding all by myself without a big fluid dripping mess under the car. Tick Performance makes them for various trans models.
Tick Performance

I only recently got the Nomad to start up, and have bled the clutch and I'm nearing a trial run up the driveway to test the clutch setup...so I'm not 100 percent sure I like this just yet. But so far, so good.
The clutch pedal is hard to push...harder than I'd like to be, so I'm not sure if I need more work on the geometry between the pushrod-to-pedal arm connection point. But it seems like it's functional for now.

Let's see what you come up with Willy!


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Attachment: IMG_5214.jpg (1.1 MB) 17 Views

57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
01-22-19 08:12 PM - Post#2757977    

Here's a sketch of what I'm thinking...
design for a 1" movement at the slave
to operate the clutch, I hope that will be enough....

Extend the clutch pedal shaft on the left
and add a lever to give 2.7" effective swing
to activate the master cylinder with 1.3" movement...
The pedal has 5.5" of swing available at the floor
and is 11.5" long, the ratios are shown below....



I hope this made sense....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-23-19 10:57 AM - Post#2758018    

Ordered this setup from Dakota Digital....
It's quite a nice looking digital setup with analog display,
Another challenge to get it working the way I want....



It's listed as a VHX 55 CKW
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
01-23-19 03:29 PM - Post#2758035    

DANG, You do realize you're bringing up high school geometry/algebra's classes? I HATED those classes. ALL I really learned from those, was NOT to put down ANY MATH CLASS as an ELECTIVE, on "the form". Even if you were a "fair student", they put you in one of those classes. JUST DON"T DO IT, unless you can carry that "weight". NO, I was't that "fair student", but I also I made that mistake! Guess I should have plugged in "Home Economics or Underwater Basket Weaving". Dang it, 2Loose, just don;t do this to me; I thought I'd finally worked my way through this residual "mathematics" stuff; I guess NOT. I need to take a break, and probably a long nap. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
01-24-19 09:38 AM - Post#2758115    

A little bit of agreement on your comments Butch.
I too had to read Willy's formula a couple of times to "get it".
But I think he's looking at the geometry in a correct manner.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
01-24-19 07:15 PM - Post#2758156    

I had to think about it for quite awhile before it started to make sense....

The smaller master cylinder (MC) bore means it will have to travel further than the slave cylinder (SC) will move as the amount of fluid pushed from the MC moves into the larger diameter of the SC.

The ratio is volume, so squaring the diameters and taking the ratio of those two numbers gives me the proportion, and the smaller MC pressure, moved to the SC, will generate a larger force against the larger piston.

Then there's the ratio of my foot on the pedal against the shorter movement up at the MC rod input, less movement up there but higher force applied.

If I put 50 lbs force with my foot on the pedal, leverage action will produce 210 lbs force (50 x 4.2) on the MC piston.

At 7/8" that piston has 0.60 sq in of area, 210 lbs divided by 0.60 sq in gives 350 psi fluid pressure.

At the SC the 1" diameter gives 0.78 sq in area, times 350 psi gives 273 lbs force on the piston.

So with 50 lbs force at the foot pedal giving 273 lbs force at the clutch lever, a ratio of 5.46, 5.5 is close enough.

I sure hope I'm thinking correctly on this !!
Willy

2Loose
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2Loose
01-25-19 11:48 AM - Post#2758198    

The 3/8" studs on the firewall to mount the brake mc, were too short for this thick flange on the mc...

Looked at a couple of options, but the quickest was to cut the heads off a couple 1/2" bolts and thread them to fit over the 3/8" studs, with locktite....

That worked fine, except I can't get at the left side nut to tighten it with a wrench, the bracket
for the proportioning valve is in the way, so now I need to modify that bracket so I can get a
wrench in there to tighten that up...


more pix here
2Loose
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2Loose
01-30-19 09:39 AM - Post#2758563    

Had a few minutes yesterday, so worked on that proportioning
valve mounting bracket....

After some heating and hammering, I got what
looked like a pretty good fit, the mounting bolt
for the MC is exposed, and the rear MC brake line
connection is exposed, now let's make the connections
to the proportioning valve fit ok....


None of my brake tools will bend a tight enough
curve to get a good fit for these 3/16" steel short
lines from the MC to the proportioning valve, so I
ground a groove in a 1/2" bolt to try to bend and
get a good tight fit....


Started working the front connection first....


And ran out of time, will work on it some more tomorrow....
2Loose
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2Loose
01-30-19 09:36 PM - Post#2758628    

But the rear one didn't look so good....


Went to NAPA and bought some new tubing
and it came out right this time....


Looks pretty good....


Plenty of room for the clutch hydraulic master cylinder....


Looking at the shop manual for the '93 camaro 6 speed
clutch setup, I realized I set it up wrong, it's a "PULL" clutch,
not the "standard" "PUSH" clutch, and I had assembled
it wrong, so now I hafta pull the tranny and clutch apart
and put that throw out bearing back in correctly so it
will "PULL" the clutch fingers to work the clutch....


Laters....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-06-19 07:21 PM - Post#2759249    

Some flash for the dash arrived today,
Very Nice !!

2Loose
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2Loose
02-06-19 07:26 PM - Post#2759251    

Found this 3/16" tubing bending pliers online,
I'll be using this from now on for these chores....


Not a very good pic, but a definite upgrade on my homemade grooved bolt....

2Loose
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2Loose
02-06-19 07:34 PM - Post#2759252    

Pulled the stock '55 cover off the tranny tunnel inside,
not enough room, need more room....


So I made some more room....


That helped, but the motor mounts will not "sag" to any degree....
so the tranny has to come straight back, need to cut more....


Ahhh, that 'll do it !!!


The tranny came right out now, and I'll have to fab some tab
strips along those edges to put the cut pieces back in place
with a bunch of sheet metal screws....


I used to wrestle these trannies in and out on my chest....
bench pressing them in and out with no problems....

Ha, finally broke down and bought a tranny jack....
Much, much easier....

Pour me another double scotch, bartender....
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
02-06-19 08:46 PM - Post#2759259    

Are the bezels on the new dash insert cast metal or plastic? Hard to really tell in the photos. Hard to cut a perfect floor up, but what else are you going to do? We've had the rare snow storm here, so I have't even been out to the garage/shop in almost a week; I'm starting to suffer some withdrawal symptoms. I'm going to have to brave the trudge through the snow to get out there.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
02-06-19 09:14 PM - Post#2759261    

I used Dakota Digital as they have the best rep, and they seem to be cast metal, but I have to tell you, when I went to fit the "Bel Air" into the speaker space, the holes for the 3 inserts did not match, had to redrill it, not good !! Eventually I will file an engineering report with Dakota Digital, Ha, little do they know....
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
02-06-19 11:29 PM - Post#2759263    

What better way to "fight"; Engineer against Engineer? My vote's on you. Be sure to point out your thread here on CT to them; just so they know the kind of "exposure" you're providing them with.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
02-08-19 10:38 AM - Post#2759395    

Still working on that clutch problem....

NAPA doesn't even list the clutch release bearing
for this application ('93 Z28 LT1 T56)
I had to go online and found this one on ebay....
I consider that a fairly huge failure for NAPA that they
don't list this part for that Camaro....


The clutch plate I selected has the organic material on the pressure plate side....
And the metallic pads on the flywheel side....


I had to look closely to see that there were three
openings between those fingers there that the three clips
on the release bearing fit into from the motor side of the clutch....


It just 'clicked' into place with a little 'persuasion'....


And a retaining ring clicked into place on the tranny side....


The clutch release arm has a sliding capability so the
tranny can be bolted up, then the arm is repositioned
to engage the release bearing collar...


like this....


The clutch bolted up to the flywheel no problem,


And, yes, I did align the clutch disk with an old tranny input shaft....

Now to fab attachment points for a new cover....


More Later....
HYPR
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HYPR
02-09-19 05:22 PM - Post#2759506    

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!

HYPR
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HYPR
02-09-19 05:26 PM - Post#2759507    

Good eye Willie, Had you not pointed it out I wouldn't have noticed the three. Good to see some forward progress.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!

2Loose
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2Loose
02-10-19 11:17 AM - Post#2759556    

Got family visiting so work has slowed down a bit...

Dug around in my scrap pile until I found this piece of 14 ga.....


And cut 2 pcs 1" wide....


I'll fit these in under the edges of the opening
to mount the cut pieces back in...
2Loose
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2Loose
02-10-19 03:58 PM - Post#2759574    

Had a few minutes so drilled 1/4" holes 2" apart in the floor along
the right edge of the opening, and spot welded one if the
1" strips under that side with 1/2" exposed....

2Loose
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2Loose
02-16-19 12:13 PM - Post#2760050    

Found a couple of minutes to do a little more....

Got three sides done...


Trial fit looks good


Will add some additional welds underneath....
2Loose
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2Loose
02-18-19 11:16 AM - Post#2760210    

Tested some bits and settled on an 11/64" for the pilot hole
for these #10 sheet metal screws. Drilled them 2" apart,
will use this as a template to drill 11/64" holes in the strips
I welded in under the edges of the hole....

Later I'll drill these holes in the cover to 13/64" to better accomodate the screws...
2Loose
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2Loose
02-24-19 11:41 AM - Post#2760651    

Been working on some other projects, but found a little time to go work on this...
Got all the screws in on the main cover....

It's solid, now to deal with those two upper pieces....

2Loose
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2Loose
03-05-19 07:33 PM - Post#2761411    

Had a few minutes so I welded the three pieces together and painted it...


2Loose
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2Loose
03-09-19 09:59 AM - Post#2761651    

Ran into another problem with this clutch setup....
As I mentioned earlier this '93 Camaro 6 sp tranny uses an unusual "pull" type clutch setup...
So I had to re-install the clutch release bearing in the clutch pressure plate from the motor side:



The procedure is to "retract" the clutch release arm, as shown here....


And after the tranny is reinstalled, I'm supposed to "relocate" the clutch release arm to this position, engaging the collar of the clutch release bearing...


So yesterday I got it all assembled, my "new" cover fitted nicely back on the floor, and tried to "shift" the clutch release arm into position on the clutch release bearing, and it won't go !

I should have "trial fitted" that fork on that bearing collar before I put it all together, and I didn't...
Something is wrong, the collar is to big or the fork is too small for that collar...

The fork is the original one out of the '93 Camaro LT1/T56 setup, but the clutch release bearing (and collar) is internet aftermarket, NAPA does not even list a release bearing for this application, which I find pretty strange, no listing for a 6 sp '93 Camaro ??

There is absolutely no access to this setup to see what the problem is, I'm guessing it's what I described above, as I laid under the car for quite awhile yesterday fiddling with it, and the fork just will not fit onto the bearing collar !


So I have to pull the tranny again, and check out why the fork won't go...
But I'm sure tempted to cut an access hole in the bell housing where I could get access to where the fork fits onto that collar, and fab a cover plate for it, but decided against that !

Yes, bartender, pour me a double scotch !
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-09-19 11:36 AM - Post#2761658    

The bolt in the groove of the throw-out bearing fork; does it have to be tightened/loosened with it's final assembly? Good you're paving the way for those who follow your lead, but it'd be driving me nuts having to re-pull the transmission, even once. And people ask why I don't want a new car/truck? That "I" can't work on? Really? You'll get it figured out!
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
03-10-19 08:55 AM - Post#2761728    

What ever it is, will be logical once you figure it out. Just keep the problem solving up Willy. Pull the trans, disassemble and figuer it out.

You need a 2 post carlift man!
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
03-10-19 10:54 AM - Post#2761740    

Pulled the tranny, removed the clutch fork, measured it, measured the clutch bearing collar,
and found that I had 0.025" clearance, so don't know why it wouldn't go, test fitted the fork
on the collar, no problem, so, what the heck ??

Put the tranny back in, but stopped about 3/4" short of being "home", shined a light up in there
while I fiddled with the fork, and it popped into place on the collar !!
Shoved the tranny all the way back in and bolted it up, put the tail shaft support and
driveshaft back in, all bolted up, and went back to look at the setup some more.
The front of the fork looks awfully close to the outer rim of the pressure plate housing to me,
not possible to get a pic of it, but it just doesn't look like there's enough room to fully
depress the clutch and disengage the pressure plate without hitting the fork against the
rim of the pressure plate assembly.

Two things I can think of, this pressure plate assembly is larger than the stock unit, bringing
the rim of that housing closer to the fork, and/or the release bearing and collar is longer then
the stock design, pushing the inner end of the fork toward the rear, and the outer end of
the fork closer to the pressure plate rim.

Wish I had some good specs of what that clearance between the front edge of the fork
and the outer rear rim of the pressure plate should be....
The fork pivot assembly has a rectangular mounting base that fits snugly into a
rectangular slot on the front of the tranny housing, that I could machine if needed
to move the pivot point rearward, allowing more clearance between the fork and
that pressure plate rim.
I wonder where I might find that kind of information... ?

This sketch below I posted earlier showing my thoughts on one way to engineer the clutch
linkage shows a max movement available at the slave cylinder of 1", with a hydraulic
pressure available at the slave cylinder of 5.5 times my foot pressure at the pedal.
Looking at it as closely as I can through the slave cylinder opening, it looks like the
clearance between the fork and the pressure plate housing is only about 1/2", if that!
Guess I'm going to have to figure out a way to try to pin down how much clearance
is actually available in there, and try to find out how much I need!

Bartender, just leave the bottle....


56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-10-19 10:40 PM - Post#2761803    

I think EVERYONE on Chevy Talk is following your build; I'm on the edge of my seat when a new post of yours comes up. I know you will get this figured out, and what you have done will make a huge difference to anyone doing a similar swap. What's that they say; "If you're not the lead dog in the sled team, the scenery never changes". You're the lead dog Willy. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
03-11-19 10:04 AM - Post#2761836    

This is what my '93 Camaro six speed clutch release fork looks like...
That T-stud and bolt is what it pivots on...
Chevy also had a 5 speed option for the Camaro,
it is the "old style" clutch setup...


A view of the back side...
You can see how it slides in and out to engage the clutch release bearing collar
during assembly/installation...


By carefully milling the base of that T-stud to shorten it,
I should be able to locate the fork away from the pressure plate
where it can function correctly....


Now I need to figure out how to measure the existing "clearance" between the fork and the hub of the pressure plate...

And here's another good question, how much movement do I need at the clutch release bearing to get complete disengagement of the pressure plate ??
Hmmmm.....
2Loose
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2Loose
03-11-19 05:43 PM - Post#2761882    

I found a "spare" Tee Post for this tranny online, so if I mess this one up, at least I will have a "backup"....

More Pix Here....
http://www.wheelsmaui.com/content/5c86ff0a9df6e /55...



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Attachment: 55HTclutch39s_Mar2019.jpeg (176.87 KB) 23 Views


2Loose
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2Loose
03-12-19 01:29 PM - Post#2761945    

Tried my hand at some calcs, hope I'm doing this correctly....



Marked the fork end "A", the pivot "B", the rubbing point "C", and the slave cylinder at "D".
The ratio of 1.63" / 4.63" = 0.35, which means the closer to point B you get, the less the fork
moves toward the pressure plate housing, so 0.35 times the movement at point "D", 0.55"
gives a movement of 0.19" to contact at point "C", that is, the clearance at point "C" is only 0.19"
when the fork is not doing it's job.

Shortening the Tee stud to gain more clearance at point "C" is quite doable, but how much??
My slave cylinder at point "D" is capable of 1" of movement, plus I want clearance at point "C"
if point "D" is at full movement of 1". So, first let's see how much movement there will be at
point "C" if I can move point "D" a full one inch....

Using ratios, 1" of movement at 4.63" from "B" to find "x" at 1.63" from "B", or:
1/4.63 = x/1.63, or:
x=1.63(1/4.63) = 0.35"

Now to calc how much to shorten the Tee post at point "B", we need to consider the fork as
fixed at the release bearing, point "A", and calc ratios from there...
Since point "D" now has 0.55" movement before it hits, let's calc the additional it needs before it hits
for a full 1" of movement: 1" - 0.55" = 0.45" additional movement is needed,
figuring from point "A", 0.45"/8.38" = x/3.75", or:
x=3.75(0.45/8.38) = 0.20"
So if I shortened the Tee post by 0.20" I would have a full inch of movement
at point "D" where the fork would then hit the pressure plate.

Ok, if I shortened the Tee post at "B" to give 1.5" movement at "D", how much
would I have to shorten it??
First the additional movement needed at "D", 1.50" - 0.55" = 0.95"
Again, ratios: 0.95/8.38 = x/3.75
x = 3.75 (0.95/8.38) = 0.43"
That's a lot to take off of that Tee post !

1.5" movement at "D" will give how much movement at "C" to contact the pressue plate?
1.5"/4.63" = x/1.63"
x=1.63(1.5/4.63) = 0.53" at "C" to contact the pressure plate.

If the clearance at "C" is going to be zero with the shortened post at "B" and full 1.5" movement
at "D", what is the clearance at "C" with only 1" movement at "D" ??
0.5"/1.5" = x/0.53"
x = 0.53(0.5/1.5) = 0.18" clearance at point "C"

I do need to take a serious look at what other effects might come up if I shorten that Tee post 0.43" !!
2Loose
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2Loose
03-12-19 02:15 PM - Post#2761948    



It's only 1.06" tall, removing 0.43" just leaves 0.63", not a lot !!
2Loose
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2Loose
03-13-19 11:01 AM - Post#2761993    

Took another look at the Tee Post mount, the fork, and the release bearing...
There is only 0.512" protruding out of the fork...


And those side rails on the mounting stand are 0.191" high,
that leaves 0.321" available to cut, but I also need to allow room
for the fork to rocker back and forth, how much do you suppose that is?
I tried to measure it, came up with about 0.025",
so that leaves only 0.296" max that can be cut !!


Had another thought though, let's check where the release bearing
sits on the tranny snout, I can measure that...
It turns out that the rear of the release bearing collar is
exactly flush with the rear edges of the bell housing...


That means that the rear of the release bearing is also flush with the front
edge of the tranny, so with a straight edge I was able to measure just how
much travel the release bearing had available, turns out is is exactly 1/2" !!


Using the same ratios that I used above, 0.55" movement at point "D"
gives 0.44" at point "A" (the release bearing), but we
want 0.50" movement at the release bearing (point "A")
which requires 0.62" of travel at the slave cylinder (point "D")
Since I already have 0.55" travel available at point "D", I just need to
add 0.07" to get 0.62" movement at "D", getting 0.50" at the release bearing.
In order to get this, I only need to trim the tee post by 0.030"
But I'd be touching the pressure plate housing, so I need to add
additional clearance for the pressure plate...

I ran the numbers several times, and came up with these results:
Trim the tee post 0.080" gives 0.070" clearance,
Trim the tee post 0.100" gives 0.100" clearance,
Trim the tee post 0.150" gives 0.170" clearance,

It looks like all of these trim options will not cause other problems,
taking into account the angular movement of the fork on the tee post,
the amount of post exposed under the fork, and the amount of the tee post
required to fit into that base mount on the tranny, I have about 0.296"
available for a maximum trim job before I might run into a functional interference.

So, the real question is, just how much clearance do I really
need for the pressure plate housing ??
My feeling at this point is to trim the tee post 0.100" and see if I can live
with 0.100" clearance at the pressure plate housing...

The real problem is that I do not know just how much movement that clutch
needs to function properly, am searching for that number....
I'm pretty sure 0.500" is way over what's needed....
2Loose
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2Loose
03-14-19 04:57 PM - Post#2762093    


Trimmed that tee post by 0.153”...
Let’s see how it all fits together now...
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-15-19 06:05 AM - Post#2762129    

Willy!!! You're giving me a headache with all that "figurin'", if you know what I mean. I sure hope you get this figured out soon, so the car can go back together. That's all we want to see. It should be impressive. I mam Butch/56sedandelivery.


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2Loose
03-16-19 11:05 AM - Post#2762236    

With the shortened tee post, I had to shorten the mounting bolt an equal amount, it was too long...
But the tee post and fork went back together nicely on the front of the tranny, no problems...
Put the tranny back in the car, the fork "popped" back into position nicely on the release bearing,
and I was able to get a measurement at this end of that fork...
Was able to get a pic, difficult to do under there...

This photo is misleading, the end of the fork actually now sits slightly above the surrounding metal...


This pic shows the full movement of the clutch release bearing on the other end,
I measured 0.800" total movement at this end, and was able to determine
that there was plenty of clearance at the pressure plate housing....
I bent a heavy piece of wire and hooked it up in there under the fork, between the fork and
the pressure plate, and felt around a bit, when the fork was fully depressed, felt like plenty of clearance...


I still need to cut an inspection hole in the clutch cover, haven't made up my mind yet where and how big to make it....
2Loose
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2Loose
03-16-19 11:06 AM - Post#2762237    

Haven't decided what to do about an inspection window yet, still mulling that over....

In the meantime, had to check out just where the clutch slave cylinder
will sit with the adjustments I've made to the clutch fork support setup....

Removed the support piece that goes between the cylinder
and the clutch housing, and mounted the slave cylinder
with the piston completely compressed inside the cylinder...



Measured this distance between the clutch housing and the cylinder, 1.643"...


Reassembled it with the support piece, which is 2.000" wide,
which gives me 0.357" of piston travel behind the
open cylinder still available behind the piston...


With a total stroke in the slave cylinder of 1.5",
and a max clutch fork movement of 0.80"
(probably less) I should be good to go with this setup!
2Loose
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2Loose
03-21-19 11:31 AM - Post#2762595    

Put it all back together...
Now to look at the clutch pedal and linkage....


The chalk mark by that lower bolt is 2.7" down from the pivot...


Which is where I think I want to put the clutch
master cylinder push rod...


I think that this gives me the max. amount of leverage that I want to try for,
but should give me lots of foot pedal travel and a fairly light
pedal effort. If I move the attachment point further down, it
will increase foot pedal effort but give me a faster action at the pedal.
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-21-19 06:30 PM - Post#2762627    

"Everything" looks real nice, but my head is also really starting to "hurt"! I absolutely hated math in high school, and even more so in college. Since I've been "medically retired", I have't really found much of a need for it, thankfully. I check this forum daily, for only one reason, Willy's 55 hardtop build, just like I/we, followed the 4 door Gasser build. I'm NOT into motorcycles, so don't let anything happen there! This is going to be the fastest, Street, 55 Cheverlay, on the Sandwich Isle's. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
03-23-19 07:19 PM - Post#2762740    

Math is what got me through the engineering stuff at UC Davis. But it was a farm school, so almost everything in the early 60's was oriented that way.
I struggled mightily with almost everything else, but math save my butt more times than I want to think about....

Got the hole saw out and started marking off measurements....
Drilled that hole first from the front side.
Had to pull off the brake MC to get access with the drill for the bolt holes...
Tried to get at the passenger side hole with the drill from underneath,
No Way, so off came the brake MC....



That "ridge" on the left side of the MC (viewed from the front) needed
to be flattened with a hammer, or a spacer needs to be fabbed....
So made a pattern...



Had that piece of 1/4" in the scrap pile, so used that...

The pattern looks good to go....



Gotta cut off the left side where the firewall ridge hits it...



Cut the big hole first....
Go from there....



Looks good on the MC...



Looks good on the firewall...



Need to fab another 1/4" plate for the inside, with the 3/8" bolts
welded on to stuff through and bolt up from the front side....

2Loose
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2Loose
03-25-19 12:46 PM - Post#2762865    

Fabbed another 1/4" plate for the inside, with the 3/8" bolts
welded on to stuff through and bolt up from the front side....




2Loose
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2Loose
03-25-19 05:19 PM - Post#2762886    

Everything bolted up quite nicely....


My spacer worked perfectly....


The inside plate with bolts also seems good to go....


Now to take it all apart and paint the parts.
498 chevy
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498 chevy
03-27-19 11:01 AM - Post#2763014    

good work
http://www.picturetrail.com/webe

56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
03-27-19 08:39 PM - Post#2763042    

Ye Haw Willy, you got this! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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03-31-19 10:45 PM - Post#2763370    

OK, the plan is to have two small square access holes in the floor pan,
on that piece I made, two smaller holes, looking at 4" x 4", up on top
and directly over two 1" threaded holes right over the clutch gap, so
unscrew the two floor covers, unscrew the plugs, and check the gap
with a couple feeler gages, on the end of a metal rod, so I can probe
the air gap on the clutch and watch, looking for the .035" setting and
see how I like that out on the street. Am thinking I can probably
reset the master cylinder clutch action up or down under the dash
if I need more or less pump action and how the pedal feels....
Driving a solid stick behind a solid motor is always just so much fun!
2Loose
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2Loose
04-07-19 05:42 PM - Post#2763792    

I did get a few hours to work on that clutch setup some more...
Finally located a clevis the right size to attach to a 3/8" rod and the clutch pedal...
Ran down about 3" of 3/8" fine thread so I'll have lots of adjustment available...


Looks good to me, will add another hex nut weded to the rod below the thread for a wrench...


Cut and welded an offset from 1/4" scrap to set the "push" point 2-3/4" down
from the pedal pivot, and 2-1/4" over to the left to center on the clutch MC...

Now I need to cut the rod to the correct length and round off the end to match the MC piston...


And I need to learn how to use that bore scope I just bought to check clutch gap, and figure out just where I want to put the access holes...
2Loose
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2Loose
05-12-19 03:18 PM - Post#2766248    

Been busy on other projects, but did get some work done on the brakes and the hydraulic clutch setup, here's a few pix:

Got the clutch pedal, clutch mc pushrod dialed in pretty well, now to see how well it really will work with this mc to activate the clutch....


The two bolts holding the offset for the pushrod on the clutch pedal was rubbing on the steering column, so I cut the heads off and welded the bolts in place, works just fine....
Also the upper hole centers the pushrod on the mc piston pretty well, so using that one...


Had to find some an-3 braided brake hose and fittings to extend the short piece I had on the slave cylinder. It ended up too long, so shortened it and changed the 90 at the mc to a 45....


Decided that before I go mounting the clutch mc in place I'd better get the brake lines installed at that mc...


The rear outlet on the proportioning valve had a weird, large thread, but one of my local auto supply houses was able to find a fitting that matched it....


Bought a few 3/16" by 60" hard lines and started fitting them to the chassis, shortening and reflaring with a double flare where necessary...


Attached the brake lines to the frame using pieces of rubber hose and clamps...


The rubber hoses at the brakes are 1980 Camaro, fit perfectly, after I moved the calipers from the rear mounting holes of the spindle mount to the front...
I think they'll be fine that way....


The passenger's side...


I still need to add some more mounting points using the rubber hose and clamps, and still need to put the rear axle hose in, again using one for a 1980 Camaro....

-Willy

More pix here
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
05-12-19 05:59 PM - Post#2766257    

This is one of those threads I follow religiously. Can't wait for another, "new installment". I like the do-it-yourself, using NO pre-fabbed kits, to put this old Hawaiian 55 Chevrolet back together, into something completely new to Hawaii, and probably anywhere else. I see photos, someone has posted, of the 55, 4 door, Olds powered and blown, Gasser on other sites. Everyone is impressed. Can't wait for the first go-around-the-block ride. Keep it up Willy!
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
05-13-19 09:39 AM - Post#2766295    

I was out driving the '55 gasser, "Patches", yesterday, still is a "gas" to drive it, love that car, the "new" TKO 600 I put in it to replace the Doug Nash 4+1 I kept breaking is not that good, shifts really hard, it feels like the synchro rings are jamming, not sliding past each other smoothly on each shift, but it is driveable, and except for the shifting, a ton of fun to drive...
Willy
jdk
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jdk
05-13-19 02:35 PM - Post#2766310    

i have never cared for the shifting of tko's
jim
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2Loose
05-14-19 09:43 AM - Post#2766381    

I was thinking there was something wrong with just my TKO600 due to the hard shifting, is this a common problem?? I paid "extra" to get the trans built with the graphite (is that right?) synchro rings, not sure I have described that correctly, and I'm thinking that was a mistake, am considering pulling it apart and rebuilding with brass synchro rings. I've a lot of experience with Muncie's and my old Doug Nash, can't imagine that this TKO will be any harder to work on, and maybe I can improve it....
jdk
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jdk
05-14-19 02:15 PM - Post#2766391    

i was told those syncros helped. i never had them
in my tko. i was used to the muncie's and t10. i hated my tko and got rid of it. other people have
had the same feeling about tko. others like them.
jim
2Loose
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2Loose
05-14-19 07:57 PM - Post#2766421    

yup, I agree with every word!
It would be interesting for me to look inside and try to determine why!
The design of the synchro rings in the T10s and Muncies (and the Doug Nash 4+1 I still have)...
They shift great, maybe I can adapt that to this tranny??
Where's the bar....

Miss my chopped panhead, gotta get it running...
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
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2Loose
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2Loose
06-09-19 12:08 PM - Post#2768055    

Visiting family, house and yard projects, have slowed down
my progress on the '55, but did get some work done
on the brakes and clutch systems...

Still getting way too many leaks, have had to pull off
just about every one of these steel brake lines and
redo the flares, and try different connectors....
These are various length steel brake lines from NAPA,
but I am getting leaks from just about every one
of their flared ends, it's been a nightmare !!

I've had to reflare and refit every connection at the MC
and proportioning valve....




Front line from the proportioning valve down to a tee,
then off to both front calipers, used hoses for an '80 Camaro,
they fit nicely...


Got the front brakes hooked up and bled, looks good...


Ran two 60" lines along the frame to the rear, had to cut and fit
a short piece in the middle to get it exact...




Got it bled and the pedal feels good, but still chasing a couple of leaks !!

Got the hydraulic clutch bled and working, but the pedal feel is much
heavier than I think it should be, need to check that out...



Lots more pix HERE and HERE

More later....
Willy
2Loose
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2Loose
06-15-19 11:31 AM - Post#2768511    

Dug out my valve spring compression gage....



....And used it to press against the clutch pedal,
it's running between 35 and 45 lbs pressure, so I'll use 40 average,
with this system I designed the mechanical leverage factor
is 5.5 to 1, so with 40 lbs at the pedal I'm putting 220 lbs
on the clutch release lever at the slave cylinder...
For this aftermarket '93 LT1 T56 clutch setup I
don know if that is excessive or not. It sure feels like
a lot though....



But I've decided to just leave it and drive it this way and see how it feels...
I still need to setup an adjustable "stop" and install the over-center return
spring on the clutch pedal, and then see how that feels....
More later,
Willy
56sedandelivery
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56sedandelivery
06-15-19 07:08 PM - Post#2768527    

Dang Willy, I'd be involuntarily committed about now if I was having those issues; well maybe a little bit longer trying, but the results would probably be the same. If this build does't make it into one of the magazines (Hot Rod, Car Craft, Etc.), especially being in "remote" Hawaii, I don't know how that would't be possible. I know you'll get it all figured out; leading the way is always difficult. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
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2Loose
07-03-19 08:18 PM - Post#2769885    

Figured out a way to put overnight pressure on the brake pedal, it goes down to the floor overnight, but I can't find any leaks, maybe the master cylinder is leaking back around the pistons internally? It's a dual chamber unit.
Hmmmm....

Tried to hook up the over-center/return spring on the clutch pedal, but can't find the usual anchor up under the dash, as this car was originally an automatic, and was always one until I got it, do ya suppose that anchor for a clutch pedal return spring never got installed at the factory? So I'm going to have to fab something? Once again....
Hmmmm....

Also need to fab an adjustable stop for the up stroke of the clutch pedal....

My fuel tank came supposedly drilled for the fuel gage sender to be mounted on the front side, and was drilled supposedly for a stock '55 sending unit, and the unit I ordered was was supposed to be a stock '55 sending unit, and it doesn't match up to the hole in the tank, more fab work to get it to fit right.....

Am traveling right now so it will be awhile for me to get back to it, but am thinking about how to do these while traveling....

Happy 4th to all....
Willy
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
07-06-19 07:41 AM - Post#2770045    

Thanks for the updates Willy.

You mentioned earlier:
  • Quote:
Got the hydraulic clutch bled and working, but the pedal feel is much
heavier than I think it should be, need to check that out...



I too am having a heavier-than-desired clutch pedal with the way I fabbed mine up in the Nomad. I need to get some pics and post them here to compare to yours, but I don't have any offset factor built into the rod mounting point. Just clevis around the pedal about 2 inches below the pedal pivot point. The clutch works fine (when driving it) but the pedal is hard like a truck and I need to re-fab up a way to reduce the amount of foot pressure on the pedal so it feels more like a modern car. Will post some pics of my setup soon, and ask for your advice. Take care, Paul.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
07-26-19 12:17 PM - Post#2771670    

I got to spend time with 3 of my 4 kids who are up in the Seattle area, 6 grandkids, man they wore me out !!!
Good to be back home and working on the project again, a new fuel filler tube arrived while I was gone, 2" ss supposed to fit right in place on my '55 hardtop, right into the inlet tube on the new fuel tank I had installed before I put the body back on the frame...

Ha, wouldn't fit, too short and some interference from the frame rail....
So tried cutting off a piece that goes into the tank and extending it with some 2" fuel hose I had on hand....





It needs to be about 3" longer at the fuel tank,
so I cut off the O-ring portion and did a trial fit....

It didn't work, the tank inlet is partially below the frame,
I couldn't get the rubber hose to bend that much,
so I bought a 45 deg bend piece of ss 2" pipe
and drew up as accurate a sketch of what needed
to fit where as I could....



......and started cutting to fit....



Cutting by hand with a hack saw gives me the thinnest
cuts when I want precision fitting of the pieces...



Now to cut each piece to get the correct length
in the middle....



This matched my drawing pretty well,
now to tack it together and see how well it fits
in the car and into the fuel tank



It fits quite well, now to weld it up, test for leaks
and paint it...
5Larry7
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5Larry7
07-26-19 02:25 PM - Post#2771677    

Good job!
'57 210, 327 cid, Holley MPFI, 700R4, A/C & more.
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer.

WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
07-27-19 09:28 PM - Post#2771770    

Love the ingenuity Willy. You made that work well.

I am still interested in what you found out about your stiff clutch pedal and TO bearing setup.
Mines too stiff and the hydraulics stop engaging the TO bearing after driving the Nomad for about 5 to 10 minutes.

Don't want to hijack your thread here...so i'll post my issues soon.

Keep going man. You'll have that car on the road soon.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
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2Loose
08-03-19 03:21 PM - Post#2772335    

Back on the clutch again....
Tried to install the clutch pedal "over center/return spring" but it was too loose
with the oem anchor, the lower one, so I made up a shorter/adjustable one....



It fits like this (below) with the front hook located so that the pedal pivot
passes through the plane of the springs pull in such a way that
when the pedal is up the spring holds it up, and when the pedal
is depresses the spring assists in pushing against the
mastercylinder. I got it installed and adjusted so that it
feels pretty good....



The clutch pedal needed a stop for when I took my foot
off of it, as the original lever on the right side of the
pedal pivot was not being used, I fabbed an adjustable
stop and put it in there....



A close up....


After aedjusting the push rod for the master cylinder, I had about
a 1/4" of "free play" before the push rod touched anything in the MC,
the over center / return spring is working perfectly to hold the pedal
up against the stop and sitting at the same level as the brake pedal
right next to it.



The brake pedal feels good, and the clutch pedal feels pretty good also,
a slightly heavier clutch pedal feel than the mechanical one in my
'55 gasser, and I think it will be ok....
2Loose
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2Loose
08-10-19 01:25 PM - Post#2772895    

Using American Autowire's '55 kit with lots of extra options....
Got the fuse panel mounted and got lost in the directions....





More pix here....
WagonCrazy
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WagonCrazy
08-12-19 06:25 AM - Post#2773013    

Wiring...a time consuming but gratifying task for sure.

After having done a couple myself, my only reccomendation is to take ONE circuit at a time and wire it up completely. Then go to the next one, then the next one, etc. Following the instructions closely. And keep the other distractions at bay. Should take you a couple of solid "sessions" with your car to be mostly done...if you can focus and keep yourself from being distracted by ANYTHING that comes along. Including beer...

Great to see you making continual progress Willy. Thanks for posting pics and details. It motivates the rest of us to keep moving forward with our projects.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


498 chevy
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498 chevy
08-12-19 08:29 PM - Post#2773100    

great advice
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2Loose
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2Loose
08-15-19 04:40 PM - Post#2773269    

My new gage system has a computer to operate it that has to be mounted up under the dash somewhere, also the FAST engine computer has to be mounted somewhere up there, was under there looking at possibilities when it dawned on me that I needed to probably install the AC / heating system, and the new under dash windshield wiper system first, and I have not purchased those as yet. So been online looking at possibilities, want to use the AC compressor that came with the motor out of a '93 Camaro, but need the rest of it.
2Loose
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2Loose
09-04-19 07:52 PM - Post#2774850    

Waiting for hardware for under dash install, like AC and wiper hardware, so pulled wire to the rear end, and found the taillight assemblies needed work...



I am going to run these full coverage rear lenses, sort of a '49 Buick taillight replica, or so I'm told...


I'll have to replace the backup light socket with a new socket that will handle both taillight and brake light bulbs...


It shouldn't be a big issue and I think the taillights will look great like this...
55 Shaker
Member
Posts 1512
09-05-19 06:59 AM - Post#2774869    

My opinion, those tail lights are better looking than the stock ones. I had some like those on my 55.
The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-05-19 10:12 AM - Post#2774880    

Here's what that lens looks like on the car...

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-12-19 11:26 AM - Post#2775398    

Cleaned up the housings, drilled, tapped, and mounted the lower
sockets to take the 1157 dual circuit LED bulbs....


Have used both white paint and silver paint in the past with good results...
Chose silver for this build....


Hooked up all four circuits, a brake and a running light both
on top and below, flipped off the shop lights, it's bright !!!

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-12-19 11:37 AM - Post#2775399    

Here's what those tail light lenses look like originally, a '56 Buick:


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-13-19 10:28 AM - Post#2775462    

Decided to just solder the wires at a lot of the connections
and cover the connections with shrink tubing...


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-13-19 11:07 AM - Post#2775464    

A box of goodies from Rain Gear for my wipers arrived....


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-15-19 11:53 AM - Post#2775581    

Finishing up the tail lights....
Put shrink tubing on the connections,
Pulled the wires through some rubber tubing up to the connections....



And wrapped everythng left exposed with elec. tape....



Now to mount 'em back on and hook up to the harness....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-21-19 12:38 PM - Post#2776065    

I started work installing the new wiper system....

Pulled the old wiper system out of the cowl and out from
under the dash, and started laying out the new parts....



Tried to install the switch, but it spins in the dash,
the original switch is keyed to a slotted hole in the dash
so it won't spin, but the switch provided by RainGear has
flats that do not match up with the hole in the dash,
so it spins easily when I turn the switch on and off....
Not good....
RainGear should have done a much better job providing
a switch that would fit properly in the original '55 dash hole....



Another view



So I cut a disk of 16 ga. galv. and drilled/filed
a hole that fits the new switch nicely....





Now to figure out how to add a tab to that disk
that will key into the slotted hole in the dash,
that will prevent the switch from spinning....



Or maybe I can just glue that disk to the back side of the
dash where the switch fits, will think about that....
WagonMan
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 1647
WagonMan
09-21-19 06:04 PM - Post#2776089    

One of these would be much simpler.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Count-1- 2-in-St...
Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)

WagonMan
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts 1647
WagonMan
09-21-19 06:07 PM - Post#2776091    

One of these would be much simpler.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Count-1- 2-in-St...
Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)

2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-26-19 09:20 PM - Post#2776549    

Yeah, I know, but I did have fun dreaming up the disk idea and fabbing it....

Glued the disk to the back side of the dash
where the switch goes, it worked out great !!

When I tried to fit the left side wiper shaft in place
with the motor and other parts attached, the motor hits my
hydraulic clutch MC pedal offset, which is centered on the
MC, so I can't move that....



I can rotate the wiper motor 120 deg in it's chassis, as long as
I keep the critical alignment of the motor shaft relative to the
"shut down" or "off" position of the motor shaft....

But a close look here shows that I'm going to have to relocate the fuse panel,
as that wiper motor will hit it in the new 120 deg clockwise relocated position !!



Pulled the fuse panel and all that attached wiring out to make room....

Also, if you look at the top of that last pix you'll see that I
still have the stock defrost ducting in place, I found that I
need to remove that as well....

I have new Vintage Air system on order, I'm told that
it will have new defrost ducting that will clear the Rain Gear setup....

During all this, I've had several good conversations with the folks
at Rain Gear, and they have been quite helpful....

Then made sure the motor was in the "shut down" position,
carefully loosened the nut on the motor where the drive arm is mounted,
and pulled the motor off.



With the motor off, carefully fitted the rest of the assembly into
position under the dash, all looking good....
Except....
Getting some rubbing on the left side of my clutch offset
against the right side of the wiper assembly,
but I think I can deal with that once I get the wipers all in
and aligned....



I carefully remounted the motor in the new position,
and carefully reattached the drive arm in the "off"
or "shut down" position.



Now let's see how well all this is going to fit....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-26-19 09:21 PM - Post#2776550    

There's an anchor bracket bolted to the firewall
in the center of this pix, I had to bend it a bit to
get the fit I wanted with clearance from the
clutch pedal bracket....



It all bolted together pretty well....



Lots of clearance with the clutch pedal bracket....



The escutcheon doesn't fit very well on the driver's side....



No problem on the passenger's side....



Think I'm going to remount the fuse panel cross wise and lower....


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
09-28-19 05:05 PM - Post#2776644    

Drilled a couple of holes, got some bolts and spacers, and it's good to go....



Needed to rework that lower mounting bracket to pull the
wiper chassis in toward the firewall, lifting the angle of
the wiper shaft up to get a better fit....



This is where it fits, that stud is where I'm trying to pull
the assembly in toward the firewall....



And it worked, I got lucky, it popped right into place
after reworking that bracket....
look at the pic above a ways to see the difference....



And I still have clearance with the clutch pedal....
WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3196
WagonCrazy
10-01-19 06:49 AM - Post#2776832    

Good work Willy. Keep at it. Wipers are important on Maui...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


498 chevy
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 474
498 chevy
10-03-19 01:19 PM - Post#2777006    

love the amount of work and thinking u put into making the wipers work.
http://www.picturetrail.com/webe

WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3196
WagonCrazy
10-04-19 06:34 AM - Post#2777068    

regarding the placement of your fuse panel- put it where you can easily get to it. it's rough having it up under the dash if your in there often to troubleshoot.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-09-19 11:39 AM - Post#2777483    

The fuse panel's pretty easy to get at now, I like the new location much better than where it was originally....

Just noticed that the windshield washer nozzles on the escutcheons are missing, the holes plugged up with screws....



Have not been able to find replacement nozzles, except already mounted on new escutcheons, so I ordered a new pair....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-09-19 11:53 AM - Post#2777485    

The BeCool radiator setup includes the
front end AC stuff....



And the motor has a new AC compressor....



The rest of the Vintage Air system to go under the dash just arrived from Danchuck....



Scratching my head and reading over 60 pages of instructions....
And going over the parts, I have fond hopes of making this all work....

The first thing is to fnish stripping the dash,
which was already pretty much stripped,
I pulled out the defrost vents, which will be replaced....



And attached the mounting brackets on the evaporator unit....



Hmmmm, hope I did that right....


56sedandelivery
Dedicated Member
Posts 5692
56sedandelivery
10-09-19 03:15 PM - Post#2777492    

Willy, I sent you a P.M. about parts. Been following this build since you started it; just like you did with "Patches", the 55, 4 door, Street Gasser. Keep it up, and posting as you go! You're one of my "pseudo-hero's"; but only because your builds are something I wish I could still do. And, Hawaii is the ONLY other place my wife would ever move too, and we've discussed it many times, but I have a real issue with heat. Can't wait to see the final results of this build/car. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-11-19 09:42 AM - Post#2777665    

Although I've worked with classic cars all my life, never got involved with AC until this one, so taking my time and trying not to make too many mistakes!
I was disappointed to learn that this Vintage Air setup does not include any option for outside air, it is strictly an inside air setup, I looked at possibly modifying it to include a choice of outside or inside air, and backed away from that idea. The original heating system had that option, but Vintage Air included a block off plate to cover the fresh air connection to the old heater.
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-19-19 01:58 PM - Post#2778250    

I can only hope I won't mess up this install, or if I do it won't be too serious a problem, am learning a lot, over 60 pages of instructions, it's taking awhile for me to absorb all of it, and the install of the evaporator under the dash has not been easy !!!

Had to trial fit the evap unit several times without the hard lines installed, so I could locate the mounting holes in the firewall and drill them. I had previously reworked the firewall, so "unnecessary" holes got welded up!! What fun!!

These brackets look kinda flimsy to me, but it's what they came with....



This side bolts to the bottom lip of the dash....



I needed to bolt in place the two defrost ducts that came with the unit....



Of course the holes provided did not match up, so drilled some new holes....
No problem....



Putting the hard lines on the evap unit was a bit of a horror show....



These will never match that firewall cover plate



Hmmm, can't seem to get them to look like this drawing....



After lots of messing around with them this is the best I could get...



But the unit would not go in under the dash
with these hard lines installed until I cut
the firewall access hole bigger, as you can
see above, extending the hole further down,
it was the only way I could get the unit
to go in under the dash with the hard lines
attached....

It still took some wrestling around under the dash
to get it to sort of line up in the original firewall hole....



Not the best fit, but I think I can make it work....

And I had to fab a cover plate for that larger
firewall opening I had to cut....



I think I can make this work ok,
still have a long ways to go this this though....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-21-19 06:57 PM - Post#2778470    

New vents and cables came today....



The old stuff was pretty rusted up,
so I wanted new stuff....

The screws holding the old parts in are something
from way back, clutch head screws, they need
a special screwdriver, I dug around in my Dad's old
toolbox and found a screwdriver that would fit....
I got lucky....







Checking out the new vent cables and they are a bit too long,
for how I want to fit them in there....
so I'm going to shorten them to fit the way I want....


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-29-19 11:54 AM - Post#2779054    

Using a new '55 Chevy Pickup dash control, it's a bit different
than the sedan control, but I think I can modify it to make it work OK !



It comes apart pretty easily,
All the old cable connections are being replaced with
electrical sliders....



The label window for the sedan version needed to be trimmed
a bit to fit into the truck control panel...



Looks good to me....



These two levers for the temp control needed to be bolted together...



This blower speed control replacement lever for the sedan version needs
to be shortened to fit this control unit from a Chevy Truck....



No problem at the knob end...



Looks good to go....



These electrical signal devices need 2" of travel and produce
a zero to five ohm signal, I think this will work just fine....





More later....

(More pix HERE if you're interested....)
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-31-19 11:08 AM - Post#2779224    

Then the "mode control" lever (air flow to dash, defrost, floor)
just below the fan speed control needed to be lengthened....



And the second resistance slider (0 - 5 ohms) mounted....







Now I need to figure out how to mount the temperature control unit...
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
10-31-19 07:18 PM - Post#2779259    

Got the ac to heat temp control sliders hooked up, it looks ok....



More pix here if you want....

Sorry I didn't post more, it's been a long day and I'm tired....
-2Loose Willy
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
11-15-19 01:30 PM - Post#2780233    

When I tried to fit the face plate for the controls in the dash opening,
the opening was just a hair too narrow, so much for the claim that
the '55 Chevy pickup unit will fit in the sedan!!!

The edges of the opening are rolled in, so with a body hammer,
I carefully "rolled" the left side edge until the face plate fit....



I got a good fit, now I find that the face plate for the truck is shorter
than the sedan, so there's an opening at the bottom....



Made an adapter plate to bolt the bottom of the face plate
into position in the dash, keeping the top located as
high up in the opening as I can....



Cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, drilled it and tapped it to match
the two holes in the face plate and the two holes at the
bottom of the dash opening....



Had a box of various length of #12-24 screws, so used those....



It bolted right up and is nice and solid....



While I had the unit partially apart, painted everything that I could,
and reassembled it after everything was dry....



Everything is looking good, full function and movement on all controls....



Heat/cold controls (vertical sliders) all the way up at full cold



Now all the way down for full heat....



The upper controls, the fan is off, the air flow is at the dash....



Air flow (lower lever) at the dash outlets...



Fan (upper lever) at max....



How am I going to get this into the dash opening



It took removal of a couple of parts, some jiggling around, but I got it in....



Plugged in the control harness to the three slider units,
The controls still move nicely without hitting anything,
and the unit is mounted nice and solid....

I still have quite a bit of wiring to do before
I can put power to this unit and test it out...
Soon though....
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
11-24-19 07:31 PM - Post#2780898    

Back to the wiring project in general....
Looking at the fuel pump....
It came with a diagram,
a relay, and a breaker switch...



OK, here's a good question, which side of that circuit breaker
do you connect the battery side to, the bronze colored one,
or the silver colored one ??

Since the battery is in the trunk, near the fuel pump in the fuel tank,
I'm putting the relay and circuit breaker back here.
Ran a blue wire back from the dash, and will put
a toggle switch under the dash for emergency shutoff of the fuel pump !



Am thinking of just mounting both the circuit breaker
and the relay just above the battery...



There are side terminals on this battery,
I could do this hookup off of those,
but the main cables have an auxillary connector,
and I think I will just use those...



I'm looking for a nice looking box I can mount
those parts in, maybe even one that
has a logo like "condom dispenser"
or some such idiocy....

Move Later...
2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
12-02-19 01:38 PM - Post#2781400    

Ordered a roll over protection switch for this fuel pump....


WagonCrazy
"14th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3196
WagonCrazy
12-03-19 08:44 AM - Post#2781429    

can you give the link to the part please. I may be interested in wiring this kind of setup in my nomad too...
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow


2Loose
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 4461
2Loose
12-06-19 10:58 AM - Post#2781595    

The new "roll over protection" switch for the fuel pump arrived,
cut a piece of aluminum plate to hold the circuit breaker,
the relay, and the roll over switch....



Some drilling and tapping for 10-24 screws...



Bolted it in place with some wing nuts...



Now to wire it up....
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