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Username Post: Bolt-on front disc conversion for '53 Chevy please??        (Topic#351533)
1953 Chevy 210 4-dr 
Poster
Posts: 7

Reg: 06-11-18
06-12-18 04:21 AM - Post#2736682    

Can anybody please recommend a supplier for a complete and easy to install bolt-on disc brake kit for the front of a '53 Chevy 210 4-door with stock suspension & hubs.



 

Sheldon Y. 
Contributor
Posts: 227

Age: 57
Loc: Waltham, Massachusetts
Reg: 10-29-16
06-12-18 04:40 AM - Post#2736683    
    In response to 1953 Chevy 210 4-dr

POL, for $332., when I did mine.

Very straight forward, additional shims needed for my '49. The Kit works for 49-54.

I would also highly recommend the Under-Floor Power Brake Booster from ABS Brakes.

Again, very easy install, and now one of the best braking vehicles I own! (Stock Huck Brakes still on the rear).

'49 Styleline Deluxe Build@

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/49-sty...
http://www.frankenrodz.com/frankenstyle.html


 
1953 Chevy 210 4-dr 
Poster
Posts: 7

Reg: 06-11-18
06-12-18 06:22 AM - Post#2736689    
    In response to Sheldon Y.

Thanks for this.

I had to look up what POL stood for first LOL.
But I found it easy enough on the internet.

I have emailed them as the spec on their website says their kit is not compatible with a manual transmission car, mine is manual unfortunately.

Looks nice however. $699 including the Booster.

Lets see what they come back with.



 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13820
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
06-12-18 07:15 AM - Post#2736700    
    In response to 1953 Chevy 210 4-dr

Looks like they have a good looking P.S. pump bracket also.

P.S. Pump Bracket for 235

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
Dean50 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1233
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
06-12-18 08:37 AM - Post#2736706    
    In response to 1953 Chevy 210 4-dr

I used Engineered Components on my stick shift car and also added double chambered MC to the stock under floor MC with valves. Pretty easy jobs.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/catalog.html

Dean50



 
tommy49 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2308
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
06-12-18 02:11 PM - Post#2736736    
    In response to Sheldon Y.

I have the POL kit. The only issue I had was having to drop the outer tie rod to put the lower caliper bracket bolts in. I also have a Walton Fab firewall brake pedal/ booster kit.









Attachment: 49_front_disc_brake__3_.JPG (159.76 KB) 1 View(s)
Attachment: 49_front_disc_brake__4_.JPG (156.57 KB) 1 View(s)

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 55 235, 700r4, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...


 
Sethmark 
Contributor
Posts: 168

Loc: Statesboro, GA
Reg: 05-04-16
06-12-18 02:59 PM - Post#2736741    
    In response to tommy49

I’m running the ECI kit as well and have put almost 1300 miles on it since Thursday. I have no complaints.



 
Sheldon Y. 
Contributor
Posts: 227

Age: 57
Loc: Waltham, Massachusetts
Reg: 10-29-16
06-12-18 04:26 PM - Post#2736747    
    In response to 1953 Chevy 210 4-dr

My car is a Stock Manual Trans!

'49 Styleline Deluxe Build@

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/49-sty...
http://www.frankenrodz.com/frankenstyle.html


 
Sir X Loin 
Contributor
Posts: 299
Sir X Loin
Age: 42
Loc: Naples, Maine
Reg: 04-26-12
06-13-18 04:43 AM - Post#2736806    
    In response to Sheldon Y.

I have the Performance OnLine front disk kit too. I did have to send two of the passenger side brackets back. The weld on tab was out of location. The fix would have been easy, but I wanted it right after paying the money for the kit. upon getting a third that was messed up, I just fixed the bracket as it was pretty minor. I assume my situation was rare and they were easy to deal with.

1957 Chevy Pickup 1998 -2012 *sold
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27485
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
06-13-18 03:02 PM - Post#2736858    
    In response to 1953 Chevy 210 4-dr

C of the 40s has a dual MC mounting bracket for a manual trans which lets you keep your stock brake and clutch pedals.
https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/31586/Chevrol...

If you are wanting a firewall mount MC, Wilwood has a hanging two pedal assembly, but that may require converting to hydraulic clutch linkage unless you want to try cobbling Z-bar mounting brackets. I personally think staying with stock pedals is a lot less hassle, but it's your build, so follow your heart.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4233
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
06-13-18 04:56 PM - Post#2736875    
    In response to raycow

Hi Guys, I agree with Ray on this, If you aren't building a fast four wheel disc brake car a small underfloor booster will just do. Moving pedals is a big job.

The other thing to consider is if you are always going to stay drum rear, be it Huck or Bendix then you only really need boost on the front brakes to get the pressure necessary to get the most from your discs.

To do this you install your dual master with the stock Chevy size bore. The rears work just as they always did but you put a remote inline booster in the front half only. This avoids upsetting the rear brakes with too much line pressure from a boosted master. Although the little boosters you can fit underfloor are not usually capable of this.

The inline boosters are able to be mounted under the dash, in the engine bay, even in the guard if you put an inlet filter on them. They are a bit dearer but they were a factory solution to disc/drum pressure variables. They don't require a proportioning valve that the aftermarket is so fond of.

Also remember the old single master had an internal RLP valve and so new under floors need them also. 10 psi for the drum side and 2 psi for the disc end.

Just remember you are making a brake system that needs to be balanced and appropriate to the vehicles potential. Piecemeal systems can be very dangerous.

Cheers Kiwi

Attachment: VH44_Underdash.jpg (90.87 KB) 1 View(s)




Attachment: VH44_Chinese_PBR.jpg (99 KB) 1 View(s)




48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 06-13-18 05:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1295

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
06-14-18 07:58 AM - Post#2736939    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Curiosity here, if the oe manufacturers have used some kind of prop/combo valve for years, why do you believe our disc brake conversions do not require one?



 
Sir X Loin 
Contributor
Posts: 299
Sir X Loin
Age: 42
Loc: Naples, Maine
Reg: 04-26-12
06-15-18 08:51 AM - Post#2737032    
    In response to Shepherd

I put a Residual inline valve in my front lines to keep the calipers full of fluid. My MC is under the floor, if its on the firewall, you wouldn't need one. I don't use a proportion valve and mine stops mint. Its easy to overthink this stuff. try it and see.

1957 Chevy Pickup 1998 -2012 *sold
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe


 
tommy49 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2308
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
06-16-18 07:34 AM - Post#2737154    
    In response to Sir X Loin

I put an adjustable bias valve in for the rear because, with the the 4 wheel power disc, I have no idea how it's going stop.







Attachment: 49_mc-booster-prop_valve.JPG (158.04 KB) 2 View(s)

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 55 235, 700r4, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4233
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
06-21-18 10:57 PM - Post#2737880    
    In response to tommy49

Hi Tommy, Smart move, that makes your front rear bias tuneable. We have performance criteria we have to meet which involves physical repeat testing on modified vehicles.

I always went this way with one-off work as the customer would go ballistic if the tester wanted a balance change and you had to replace the rear wheel cylinders with a different size to comply.
Expensive waste of parts and labour.

You could use the entire brake system from a donor car, front discs, master, booster and matched drum rears, but if you had a significantly different overall front to rear wheel diameter it may not comply.

Simple turn on the knob and you can dial that balance back in. Everybody is happy.
Plus the testers really love to tweak the setting just to show you they are in charge. A cheap way to massage their ego and get them on board.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4233
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
06-21-18 11:13 PM - Post#2737884    
    In response to Shepherd

Hi Shepard, The OE combination vales are one of at least three different ways you can address this issue of the different pressures used for disc v drum systems.

In factory systems, these valves are exactly matched to the vehicle parameters. Their values are fixed and they are not universal.

You could boost only the front half and then the rears are as built.

You can reduce the rear wheel cylinder diameter to match the boosted line pressure. (Note this is an area/pressure calculation.

We do this down under on the 9" ford diffs by simply removing the US backing plate and fitting the Aussie Falcon setup.
The late Aussie Falcon was a matched OE system, plus the GM equivalent master has the same design and bore as the Ford and essentially they are just left and right-hand outlet versions of the same master.
You can also put the Holden callipers on the Ford Disc, for Ford stud pattern, or Holden callipers on Chevy for GM pattern.

I recommend you put in an adjustable proportioning valve so that you can adjust your bias front to rear to get it right.

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 

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