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Username Post: Okie bushing        (Topic#351485)
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 469
Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-09-18 06:44 AM - Post#2736379    

I posted earlier about a vibration in the driveline. I am now in the process of installing an Okie bushing and replacing the universial joint.

The fit between the u-joint and the bushing seems extremely tight. I am having a really hard time just getting the universial joint to move enough to connect.

I lubricated the u-joint inside and out when I installed it in the bushing.

Are the all this tight?

Thanks, Pete

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 

Tri5man 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3600
Tri5man
Loc: Possums Crotch, KY
Reg: 06-26-07
06-09-18 07:00 AM - Post#2736385    
    In response to Airlifter

Are you calling an Okie bushing a carrier bearing support?



 
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 469
Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-09-18 08:16 AM - Post#2736393    
    In response to Tri5man

Okie bushing is the replacement bushing and seal for the torque tube.

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
Sheldon Y. 
Contributor
Posts: 227

Age: 57
Loc: Waltham, Massachusetts
Reg: 10-29-16
06-09-18 09:43 AM - Post#2736399    
    In response to Airlifter

I've got detailed pics of the Okie Bushing install. It doesn't have anything to do with the back end fitment issues.

'49 Styleline Deluxe Build@

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/49-sty...
http://www.frankenrodz.com/frankenstyle.html


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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2blu52
Age: 84
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
06-09-18 01:39 PM - Post#2736427    
    In response to Airlifter

If I read this right the problem is the fit of the back half of the u joint onto the drive shaft. I did one on the 52 and it was a snug fit but it all went together okay and never gave me a problem. Over on the site some folks were having trouble with the outside diameter of the Oakie bushing being to large and expanding the torque tube but that is not what I get from your post.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


Edited by 2blu52 on 06-09-18 01:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rrausch 
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rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
06-09-18 08:48 PM - Post#2736456    
    In response to 2blu52

Did you pull out the old bushing before you installed the okie bushing?

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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2blu52
Age: 84
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
06-10-18 05:28 AM - Post#2736483    
    In response to rrausch

  • rrausch Said:
Did you pull out the old bushing before you installed the okie bushing?


I rented the tool from The Filling station, and removed the bushing with that.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
06-10-18 07:04 AM - Post#2736494    
    In response to 2blu52

I ordered my okie bushing from NCA but they were out of the removal tool. They said I could just pound the okie in on top of the old bushing so I tried. That caused some severe problems for me.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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2blu52
Age: 84
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
06-10-18 07:43 AM - Post#2736501    
    In response to rrausch

  • rrausch Said:
I ordered my okie bushing from NCA but they were out of the removal tool. They said I could just pound the okie in on top of the old bushing so I tried. That caused some severe problems for me.


There is only so much room there, so I cannot see how you would be able to just pound the new oakie in on top of the old bushing. What kind of problems did you run into doing it the way you did. Memory is kind of faint on this one as I did the job about 20 years ago. My big mistake was installing a 3:55 gear tube in the 52 and not replacing the seal with an Oakie bushing while it was still out of the car. The original seal did last about 5 years but was on the list of items to be repaired that I gave the new owners.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Airlifter 
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Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-10-18 12:40 PM - Post#2736520    
    In response to 2blu52

I did use the puller to remove the bushing and drove the Okie bushing in using a block of wood and the face of a rubber hammer. The bushing went in fairly easily.

I have driven the car about 8 miles since I got it all back together. My worry is that I might have damaged either the yoke or, dread, the bushing.

I am wondering if I should take it apart and check it out before driving anymore.

I really, really don't want to have to remove the torque tube to replace the bushing again.

Thanks, Pete

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 160

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
06-10-18 12:47 PM - Post#2736522    
    In response to 2blu52

I have installed a number of oakie bushings/seals. It's hard to believe that NCA said to just pound it in on top of the old bushing. You HAVE to remove the old bushing. You DO NOT have to remove the old seal. Who did you talk to at NCA? Eddie is the authority at NCA and he does know his stuff. You also have to be careful when you remove the old bushing with the special puller tool. The old bushing is actually two pieces and both pieces have to come out. One piece is the thin bronze bushing that sets in a thick metal sleeve. The first time I used the special tool, only the thin bushing came out and I had to go back in with the special tool and put some heat on the collar before the thicker piece would budge.



 
Dave in VA 
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Dave in VA
Age: 67
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
06-10-18 03:03 PM - Post#2736532    
    In response to Sheldon Y.

I would like to see those pics because this is on my to do list...

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
06-10-18 04:37 PM - Post#2736535    
    In response to bobt

  • bobt Said:
I have installed a number of oakie bushings/seals. It's hard to believe that NCA said to just pound it in on top of the old bushing. ......



Sadly, that is exactly what the NCA tech told me over the phone when I called to order the puller. It was not Paul, the owner at the time, who told me that.

So I started pounding it in. I did get it about 2/3rds of the way in before it would go no further, but I had to cut the end off which was sticking out of the end of the torque tube. In driving it down I did expand the end of the torque tube to such a degree that the bell-shaped collar wouldn't fit, so I had to deal with that too.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
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Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-10-18 05:23 PM - Post#2736538    
    In response to rrausch

I followed the tech tip from The Filling Station and the installation of the Okie bushing and U-joint went well. The only problem that I had was the tight fit between the yoke and the bushing.

I have driven the car about 8 miles since the installation. I jacked up a rear wheel and turned the wheel to see how much resistance it might be getting through the drive line. The wheel was pretty free so I guess everything is ok for now. I'll drive it and see what happens.

Thanks, Pete

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
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Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-14-18 10:28 AM - Post#2736957    
    In response to Airlifter

After all of this I still had a vibration. I tore it down an could not get the u-joint yoke to slide in the bushing. Dropped the rear end to get to it better. When I got it down and removed the yoke the bushing came with it. On further examination we found that the yoke was out of round and swollen at the fit. Since the bronze bushing has turned in the bushing fit I am guessing that the bushing is shot.

Now I am going to have to pull the torque tube and replace the bushing and seal. Since I am going to have to disassemble the torque tub should I go back with the original type bushing and seal or use the Okie bushing? I am thinking that if I use the original type it will give me opitions in the future.

The yoke also seemed to be spread and and allowing movement in the Tee part of the u-joint

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


Edited by Airlifter on 06-14-18 10:30 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
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raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
06-15-18 11:44 AM - Post#2737050    
    In response to Airlifter

Yes, if you are willing to completely disassemble the torque tube, it would be preferable to install the stock type seal and bushings (2 bushings in all - besides the yoke bushing, there is another one just in front of the seal).

By design, the U-joint trunnion has quite a bit of side play in the yoke. This is not a defect, and can not be "fixed" by replacing either the U-joint or the yoke. However, if the portion of the yoke which runs in the torque tube bushing is worn, scored or out of round, the yoke should be replaced.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
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Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-15-18 03:35 PM - Post#2737071    
    In response to raycow

Thanks. Do you know if the busing puller will pull the okie bushing?

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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2blu52
Age: 84
Loc: Montana
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06-15-18 05:09 PM - Post#2737076    
    In response to Airlifter

  • Airlifter Said:
Thanks. Do you know if the busing puller will pull the okie bushing?


As I understand it, the Oakie bushing is a one time repair, to replace it then the job is the same as the original method which requires tearing down the rear end so that the bushing can be driven out from the rear. I think I would just go looking for another rear end and replace the bushing with an Oakie bushing before installing it. The Oakie bushing I installed in the 52 had around 25,000 miles on it and still going.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
raycow 
Honored Member
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raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
06-15-18 09:02 PM - Post#2737111    
    In response to Airlifter

  • Airlifter Said:
Thanks. Do you know if the busing puller will pull the okie bushing?


No, the puller is designed to remove only the front bushing, the one the U-joint yoke runs in. The stock rear bushing and seal remain inside the torque tube when an okie bushing is installed. This is why the okie bushing is considered to be a one time only repair.

I don't believe it is possible to remove an okie bushing with the driveshaft still in the torque tube. You will have to remove the differential and then pull the pinion and driveshaft from the rear. This leaves the way clear to drive out both the okie bushing and the stock bushing and seal with a long piece of pipe or rod.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 160

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
06-16-18 03:09 AM - Post#2737130    
    In response to raycow





Edited by bobt on 06-16-18 03:17 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 160

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
06-16-18 03:11 AM - Post#2737131    
    In response to raycow

.



Edited by bobt on 06-16-18 03:17 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 160

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
06-16-18 03:11 AM - Post#2737133    
    In response to raycow





Edited by bobt on 06-16-18 03:18 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 160

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
06-16-18 03:11 AM - Post#2737132    
    In response to raycow

I have removed an oakie bushing without removing the center section. It is a detailed process and requires drilling two 5/16 holes, making a slot between them with a die grinder, heating the portion where the oakie sits and using a punch to drive the oakie out. After you install a NEW oakie, you repair the slot you cut with good 'ol JB weld and sand smooth the JB weld as this is the portion of the drive shaft tube that the drive shaft bell housing slides on. After reading about your nightmare, I would use a new oakie and NOT an original oem seal and bushing(s) I would also get rid of the old yoke as I'm pretty sure that you have damaged it. Also, put some gear oil resistant RTV on the new oakie before installing it. Good Luck.



 
Airlifter 
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Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-18-18 06:50 AM - Post#2737343    
    In response to bobt

  • bobt Said:
I have removed an oakie bushing without removing the center section. It is a detailed process and requires drilling two 5/16 holes, making a slot between them with a die grinder, heating the portion where the oakie sits and using a punch to drive the oakie out. After you install a NEW oakie, you repair the slot you cut with good 'ol JB weld and sand smooth the JB weld as this is the portion of the drive shaft tube that the drive shaft bell housing slides on. After reading about your nightmare, I would use a new oakie and NOT an original oem seal and bushing(s) I would also get rid of the old yoke as I'm pretty sure that you have damaged it. Also, put some gear oil resistant RTV on the new oakie before installing it. Good Luck.



Looking back I think the yoke was bad when I reinstalled it. It went in way too hard. I felt there was something wrong then but couldn't put my finger on it. I am ordering a new complete u-joint assy from TFS along with a new bushing and all new spring bushings.

I don't know if I understand where you drilled the 5/16 holes to remove the Okie. Did you still have to go through the differential? I think that if I have to go that route I will go back with the original type bushing and seal so I will have options in the future.

I really appreciate all the in put on this problem. So far this has been a frustrating and expensive adventure.

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
drtyler 
Contributor
Posts: 503

Loc: Atlanta, Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
06-18-18 06:58 AM - Post#2737346    
    In response to Airlifter

The U-joint from the Filling Station (FS-688) is for three speeds, not Powerglides. Did they have a NOS u-joint for Powerglide cars?

  • Airlifter Said:
  • bobt Said:
I have removed an oakie bushing without removing the center section. It is a detailed process and requires drilling two 5/16 holes, making a slot between them with a die grinder, heating the portion where the oakie sits and using a punch to drive the oakie out. After you install a NEW oakie, you repair the slot you cut with good 'ol JB weld and sand smooth the JB weld as this is the portion of the drive shaft tube that the drive shaft bell housing slides on. After reading about your nightmare, I would use a new oakie and NOT an original oem seal and bushing(s) I would also get rid of the old yoke as I'm pretty sure that you have damaged it. Also, put some gear oil resistant RTV on the new oakie before installing it. Good Luck.



Looking back I think the yoke was bad when I reinstalled it. It went in way too hard. I felt there was something wrong then but couldn't put my finger on it. I am ordering a new complete u-joint assy from TFS along with a new bushing and all new spring bushings.

I don't know if I understand where you drilled the 5/16 holes to remove the Okie. Did you still have to go through the differential? I think that if I have to go that route I will go back with the original type bushing and seal so I will have options in the future.

I really appreciate all the in put on this problem. So far this has been a frustrating and expensive adventure.






Edited by drtyler on 06-18-18 07:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 469
Airlifter
Age: 72
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
06-18-18 08:17 AM - Post#2737354    
    In response to drtyler

The U-joint from the Filling Station (FS-688) is for three speeds, not Powerglides. Did they have a NOS u-joint for Powerglide cars?

Thanks for the heads up.

I just talked to a rep at The Filling Station. He said that the difference in the automatic and the 3 speed U-joint is the front yoke. They have a rear yoke which is the same for both transmissions.

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27485
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
06-18-18 04:03 PM - Post#2737402    
    In response to Airlifter

The 5/16" holes are drilled through the wall of the torque tube. Then the slot is cut lengthwise to connect the two holes. Use a punch through the slot to drive out the okie bushing.

As for the front yokes, the PG yoke is machined for the speedo drive gear to be mounted on it with a press fit. The manual yoke is machined to run in the bushing in the case extension casting. This difference is quite evident when you compare both yokes side by side.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 

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