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Username Post: Powerglide kickdown        (Topic#351032)
PLS 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1024
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-08-18 07:16 PM - Post#2733454    

I’m going to try and drive the ’60 approx. 2 miles to get the front aligned this coming Sat. In the last few days I have driven it on my street, well I have moved it back and forth on the street, approx. 400’ to 500’ if that much. Of course, I probably didn’t get over 10 or 15 mph so I’m assuming that it never changed gears. Since I know nothing about the kickdown and modulator valve or how they work except what I have found by goggling it I just want to make sure that I want harm the transmission when I drive it. I got under the car yesterday and disconnected the linkage to the kickdown and I noticed that there is some free movement first then with a little effort I could move it a little more. While the end of the lever where the linkage connects travels in an ark is somewhere around an inch and the shaft coming out of the transmission that the lever is attached to rotates a little less than a quarter turn and then the rest of the movement that has some resistance will move about 1/16”. I’m assuming that the last movement is when the accelerator is pressed down to go to passing gear. I have adjusted the kickdown according to the manual as close as I can get it. One of my questions, does the kickdown only work when you get down on the accelerator enough to open the carburetor all the way? The route to the shop hasn’t got any steep hills to negotiate and I will probably not get over 35 mph so should the transmission change by its normal function? I know that this is long, probably confusing and dumb but don’t want to damage anything at this stage of the game. Thanks in advance for any advice, Lamar



 
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ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 648
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
05-08-18 08:12 PM - Post#2733460    
    In response to PLS

If the transmission shift linkage isn't dialed in it is not as critical as it is on a 700R4 with a TV cable or a Mopar transmission. The service manual will walk you through the adjustments. I am sure you would be hard pressed to find anybody in a shop that is anymore familiar with an iron glide than you are just take it step by step and keep tweaking it a little at a time. Pull the hose off the modulator and see if it has any trans fluid inside it, if it does it's kaput.

Toys:
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PLS 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1024
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-09-18 04:16 PM - Post#2733544    
    In response to ragtp66

Thank you ragtp66, I know what you mean about finding someone who knows anything about the cast iron ones. When I first started looking for someone to rebuild it they would just stare at me, tell me no before I could get cast iron out of my mouth. I would ask if they knew anyone and I would call them and I think that I went through every transmission shop within 30 miles and finally a guy gave me the name and number of a guy that only worked on old transmissions and he rebuilt it about 4 years ago. I called him last week before I posted about the kickdown switch and didn’t get an answer. The number that I have is his shop number and you can’t leave a message and he only works when he has to I guess, I think that I would retire but that may be what keeps him going, he's in his middle 80's and still pretty sharp. I finally got in touch with him this morning and he pretty much said what you did, that it is a pretty simple process and some other things to do and watch. Lamar



 
PLS 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1024
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-12-18 11:34 AM - Post#2733781    
    In response to ragtp66

Drove the ’60 to the alignment shop this morning and I have got to say that I was really pleased in how it drove. The transmission seemed to do great. I was to nervous on the way down there, to see how it was shifting since this was the first time that it has “really been driven” since ’68 or ’69 on the road and I only drove about 30 mph. Coming back I tried to drive it normal, not just creeping off from start and not dogging it either and I could barely tell when it changed but the “tach” that I set up on it would drop back and then I could tell, It will be a while before I try passing gear. I will have to take it back for alignment because when I rebuilt the front-end years ago, because of not knowing what I was doing I had the tie rods and drag link way out of “pre- adjustment” and he ran out of adjustment/threads before he could get the toe-in toe-out correct.

Attachment: IMG_4583.JPG (803.56 KB) 2 View(s)


My "redneck" tach set-up


Attachment: IMG_4581.JPG (1.04 MB) 2 View(s)






Edited by PLS on 05-12-18 11:45 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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