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Username Post: save a block????        (Topic#351030)
vet65b 
"8h Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 572
vet65b
Loc: Albuquerque, NM
Reg: 02-09-06
05-08-18 05:24 PM - Post#2733438    

Guys, I have an "870" block that is dated just right for my Impala. All machine work has been done, rotating assembly balanced, heads done.
Tried to assembly head on block last night, seven head bolts will not screw into the block. Upon further inspection I see all 17 headbolt holes have had Heli-coils installed.
Headbolts will screw into the block just fine without the head in place. I believe some idiot did not install the heli-coils "square" in the block.
How can I save this block? Can it be saved? Thanks! Bill



 
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Bad56Sedan 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 915
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
05-08-18 07:34 PM - Post#2733456    
    In response to vet65b

Why would that many bolt holes need to be repaired?
How many more will become an issue?
What was the cause of the issue on those 17 bolt holes?
Some will say heli-coils are as strong as the source material.
My opinion is that block has issues, how many more are ready to go?
The true correct method of repairing the bolt holes is cost prohibitive, and can you find a shop that will do it?
My opinion is its not worth the worry.



VC56S 2 door Sedan, 38 Years



Edited by Bad56Sedan on 05-08-18 07:35 PM. Reason for edit: I am not a metallurgist, welder or engineer

 
vet65b 
"8h Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 572
vet65b
Loc: Albuquerque, NM
Reg: 02-09-06
05-08-18 09:13 PM - Post#2733463    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

bad56sedan,
In the interest of full disclosure I must admit I am the idiot that committed this blunder.
Here's the full story: I got the motor from a friend in Houston, TX. motor was originally installed in a very late production 1964 Impala w/powerglide (250 HP). When I tore the engine down I found rust in all water passages but a standard bore. Apparently Houston didn't see the need for antifreeze and when the Impala was wrecked the motor was stored on it's right side for several more years. All 17 head bolts on that side of the motor were in bad shape, left side were good. I rebuilt the motor and it ran good for several years here in Albuquerque. Then I decided to install a mild roller hydro cam and while I am at it let's helicoil those bad threads on the left side.
I thought I was being careful to get the old threads drilled out square with the head surface but 7 are out enough that head bolts will not start.
What's your opinion? Is this block toast? Bill



 
Oshawa65SS 58
Contributor
Posts: 792

Age: 58
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
05-08-18 10:10 PM - Post#2733472    
    In response to vet65b

Timesert is the repair method I prefer.
Here's a video about it.
My concern is that if they're all out, the plate won't mount true so you're beat before you even start.
The repair kit is a few bucks alright, but I guess you could resell it if it doesn't turn out to be the solution.
Fingers crossed it will do the job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itxflsaw-QE


Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
beagrizzly 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1808
beagrizzly
Age: 67
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
05-09-18 07:06 AM - Post#2733492    
    In response to vet65b

I would go with the Timesert. I have had some minimal results with Heli-coils. The problem is the coil itself can come un-wound.
the Timesert hole is a little bigger, and may have enough thread grip to handle the situation.
I would DEFINITELY use studs in this application!
Anther concern I would have is the rust issue. If the rust was bad enough that the holes stripped out, is the block integrity compromised? With water setting for that long, it will cause not just surface rust, but internal rust. Meaning the metal is actually rotten, and will never hold a thread.
You have a lot of money tied up in machine work, and more yet for Timesert kit, and studs. You just have to decide if you are willing to throw that much money away if it doesn't work out.

Now it becomes a strictly financial decision that only you can make. While it would be nice to have a numbers correct block, when all is said and done, you might not have a block at all.

Just my two pennies.

griff


if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
BigDogSS 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4579
BigDogSS
Loc: SoCal
Reg: 12-21-01
05-09-18 08:02 AM - Post#2733496    
    In response to beagrizzly

I'd take it to a COMPETENT machine shop and ask them their honest opinion. It might cost you a few extra dollars to save it, but if it is the correct date coded engine, who cares?

    1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
    1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF



Edited by BigDogSS on 05-09-18 08:06 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
centsless 
Contributor
Posts: 110
centsless
Loc: Forest Hill MD
Reg: 10-28-13
05-09-18 11:50 AM - Post#2733520    
    In response to vet65b

Is it possible that if you used studs you could get the head to slide on to them? I am not sure how that would affect torque though.

Bob
66 Impala convertible
66 Biscayne 427 2 door post
66 Caprice 4 door hardtop
66 Impala 9 pass wagon
66 Caprice 2 door
81 Corvette
96 DGGM Impala SS
01 S10
14 Silverado
1965-66 Full Size Chevrolet Club member


 
Bad56Sedan 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 915
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
05-09-18 12:29 PM - Post#2733527    
    In response to vet65b

Now that you say that I wonder even if you use the Timesert method is the bad metal that far out also?
Timesert looks like a good option, provided when the block is drilled for a Timesert there is adaquate material to tap.
Hopefully this work work out, surely a local machine knows what to do in this type of situation.

Ryan, thanks for the info, appreciate it.
Just another good example of what CT is about.

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 38 Years



 
Oshawa65SS 58
Contributor
Posts: 792

Age: 58
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
05-09-18 07:20 PM - Post#2733564    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

Timesert saved a valuable Buddy Bar C9OX aluminum intake for my Mustang.
Same one used on Shelby except it's cast with Ford lettering instead of Shelby lettering.
I was scratching my head as to why there was a chronic vacuum leak then finally discovered the carb mounting stud holes were stripped so the carb couldn't be tightened down properly.
Put ARP bullet tip studs in the inserts afterward and now everything is solid.

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
vet65b 
"8h Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 572
vet65b
Loc: Albuquerque, NM
Reg: 02-09-06
05-13-18 12:52 PM - Post#2733878    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

Guys,
We have all heard the old saying "It's better to be lucky than good". This past weekend I found an "870" block, standard bore, no rust, no cracks and a friend let me have it cheap. The block that started this discussion was not original to the car and now lives in the dump. It's replacement will be Squared, checked for line bore and bored 0.030.
Thanks for all the ideas about saving that block but sometimes it just ain't worth the money/trouble. Back to the garage. Bill



 
66cayne 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2730

Reg: 08-06-08
05-14-18 01:00 PM - Post#2733957    
    In response to vet65b

good for you. just saved yourself from a potential costly problem and now you can rest easy knowing you are starting with a good core. There is something to be said for peace of mind.



 
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