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Username Post: Engine mounting brackets        (Topic#350007)
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-08-18 03:27 PM - Post#2726911    

I recently bought a 1961 Corvette which was an abandoned restoration project. The chassis needed some repair work - both of the little angle brackets welded to the chassis to carry the engine mounting brackets had torn out of the chassis on the underside. One had been very badly welded. When I set out to repair these faults, I found that the left-hand engine mounting bracket (the one welded to the bottom of the chassis) was an inch and a half further back than the right-hand one. (Might have been the other way round - I forget).
Any ideas what this is all about?



 




raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27444
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-08-18 10:49 PM - Post#2726956    
    In response to Hugomiller

It sounds as if the car might have been converted to side engine mounts. You might be able to patch those up, but first look at a stock mounting setup to see if it would work out better for you.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 06:28 AM - Post#2726972    
    In response to raycow

Ah - being new to Corvettes, I thought this was the stock set-up! There is a little angle bracket welded to the top of the frame, and a corresponding one underneath. Then there is a bracket bolted to these that carries the engine mounting. What should there be?



 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 07:52 AM - Post#2726981    
    In response to Hugomiller

I am trying to attach a photo - I didn't realize you had to pay a subscription to do that. I have happily paid, but I still can't post it - I presume it hasn't gone through yet. I'll have another go later.



 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 09:57 AM - Post#2726994    
    In response to Hugomiller



Attachment: DSC01284.JPG (263.06 KB) 18 View(s)






 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 09:58 AM - Post#2726995    
    In response to Hugomiller

Finally figured out how to do it! This is the view inverted.



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27444
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-09-18 10:09 AM - Post#2726997    
    In response to Hugomiller

After seeing your pic and later description, I am now sure you do have the stock mounting setup. This just wasn't apparent from your initial post. I apologize for giving you a scare.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 12:04 PM - Post#2727017    
    In response to raycow

Is it common for these to tear out of the frame? And I presume they are each meant to be the same distance from the front of the frame? Mine are way out. I think the hole in the bracket that engages with the rubber mountings had been enlarged to compensate (not sure of the details as I'm currently in the UK and the car is in Florida).
I've been reading online that some people have replaced the rubber mountings with solid aluminium - that sounds a bit radical, doesn't it?



Edited by Hugomiller on 03-09-18 12:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27444
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-09-18 12:53 PM - Post#2727024    
    In response to Hugomiller

No, I have never seen a bracket tear out like that, although I suppose it is possible if the frame were rusted badly enough. I would suggest waiting until you have the "saddle" bolted to the engine before you decide where you want to position the frame brackets. Then install the brackets so as to get the best alignment of the holes. Of course you will have to support the engine while you are doing this.

The stock rubber mounts are similar to those used in 52-54 passenger cars and the complete assembly is quite strong because it doesn't have any rubber-to-metal bonds. You can't actually "break" the mount unless you break the through bolt. Replacing the rubber parts with aluminum won't gain you any strength, but can transmit vibration to the frame, which I think you would find unpleasant.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 01:33 PM - Post#2727032    
    In response to raycow

Thank you so much. When I have cleaned and painted the chassis, I intend to drop the engine & gearbox in before I re-fit the body, & see how it runs (or IF it runs - it's allegedly been rebuilt but hasn't been run for very many years). So that will be a good opportunity to get everything lined up properly.
There is no rust on the chassis - it's an Alabama car & looks like it's been off the road since 1982!
The chassis also had a nasty ding underneath where it looks like somebody tried to jack the car up about one third of the way back, but we heated it up & knocked it out.
Before doing that, I had the chassis up on stands & dropped plumb lines from various points & measured all the diagonals - luckily everything was good to within a millimetre or so.

Attachment: DSC01268.JPG (272.72 KB) 23 View(s)


Here's an example of the previous owner's welding!




Edited by Hugomiller on 03-09-18 01:34 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 01:42 PM - Post#2727033    
    In response to Hugomiller



Attachment: DSC01245.JPG (171.72 KB) 20 View(s)


And here's my chassis ding :( The phot is flipped upside down for some reason)




 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-09-18 01:53 PM - Post#2727034    
    In response to Hugomiller

Note the plumb lines & marks on the floor.

Attachment: DSC01250.JPG (174.75 KB) 20 View(s)






 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27444
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
03-11-18 12:09 PM - Post#2727215    
    In response to Hugomiller

Those welds do look amazingly bad, even for home-made. This revives my earlier conjecture that the PO converted to side engine mounts and then wanted or needed to go back to stock at a later date.

In case you were wondering, there can actually be a legitimate reason for wanting to ditch the stock mounting setup - coolant leaks. This is because the bolt holes in the saddle and water pump have enough clearance that the engine can rock back and forth under reversing torque loads. This rocking motion compromises the gasket seal and you get a leak.

A perfectly good fix would have been a couple of dowel pins through the saddle and into the block, but for some reason GM chose not to go this route. I have tried this myself and found it to work with no unpleasant side effects other than having to do it again if an engine swap was desired later on. For best effect, the dowel holes should be drilled and reamed with the saddle bolted tightly to the block.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Hugomiller 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 113
Hugomiller
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
03-11-18 01:10 PM - Post#2727217    
    In response to raycow

Thank you again for your insights. These welds are about my standard of welding. Which is why I always get others to do my welding! The chassis also has a new battery tray welded on, to the same standard, which I will have to deal with.
As regards the water leak, I have read on the internet about this. Somebody solved this problem by welding legs onto the saddle pointing downwards, although I'm not clear what they were bolted to.
Your solution sounds neat though.



 




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