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Username Post: Lower Control arm shaft        (Topic#349954)
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-05-18 04:47 PM - Post#2726546    

Can I take the shaft loose and change the shaft without taking it completely out of the car.
I'm thinking I can jack the car up on jack stands.Take the drivers side wheel & tire off and jack under the a arm and unbolt the shaft then remove the shaft and old bushings and then replace it all back.
Am I just wishful thinking?
Not asking is it the easiest way just wondering if I can do this. I'm just not real sure about the old one holding up.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
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blkss64 
Contributor
Posts: 135

Reg: 07-22-12
03-05-18 08:22 PM - Post#2726584    
    In response to Andy4639

Please, for your own safety, do not attempt what you described! Trying to replace the control arm shaft and bushings with the arm in the car will not work. Once you remove the shaft bolts there is nothing to hold the load of the spring except the shock, and that surely will give way. There are tools and techniques to use. If you have never performed this repair, seek the help of someone who has or take it to a professional.



Edited by blkss64 on 03-05-18 08:25 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
gofastwclass 
Contributor
Posts: 915

Loc: In the garage
Reg: 08-19-14
03-05-18 08:58 PM - Post#2726593    
    In response to blkss64

I agree with blkss64.

Essentially you will be spending a lot of time and creating a potentially dangerous situation in an effort to save a few minutes.

If you are trying to remove the lower control arm shaft you will need a press. If the bushings are bad enough you don't need a press to get the arm out you will likely need one to get it back in. To do this job properly, you need a decent coil spring compressor, a hydraulic press and a bit of experience, patience and all the usual tools including one of several options to remove a ball joint from the spindle without damage.

A good, undamaged (key words good, undamaged) shock will hold the spring in place, but you will be fighting under the car creating nothing but a hazard for yourself and comedy for the onlookers.

I'm sure I'm not alone in the fact that I would rather not read about you from a friend or widows perspective next week and how you were a great guy who loved cars, etc.

If you do attempt this task in the manner you describe, please will me your cars and tools first.

1961 Impala mild custom build

I build my own stuff...


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-06-18 04:26 AM - Post#2726612    
    In response to gofastwclass

Ok guy's come down, that's why I asked! First off yes I know the spring will be held in place by the shock and as I said I'd have the jack under it also.
This is why I asked. I guess I'll be pulling the control arm this weekend. I have the spring compressor and the pickle forks for taking it a part. I'm hoping I want need a press but if I do I have a neighbor who has one.

Oh by the way my grandson gets all of my vehicles!



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


Edited by Andy4639 on 03-06-18 04:27 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kingkreeton 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1155
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-06-18 02:24 PM - Post#2726674    
    In response to Andy4639

You will need the press for sure. Not an easy job at all. It takes experienced shops half a day to do both sides. I wanna say I paid $300 or so to get both control arm bushings replaced last year. If you are thinking of replacing the springs, this would also be the time to do it.



Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed

"Let's go Reds"


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2503

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-06-18 03:20 PM - Post#2726675    
    In response to Andy4639

The shock bolts to the bottom side of the lower control arm, so there is no way to get the control arm off, without first removing the shock. Once the lower control arm is out, you will need a machine shop to press out the old, and press in the new. Not a job for a novice, unless you have someone experienced working with you.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-06-18 06:37 PM - Post#2726691    
    In response to junky

The new shaft & bushings slide right together. I got the shaft from Ecklers with bushings and hardware. I hope I can get the old bushing out and then install the shaft then slide the bushing's in to the control arm and use my neighbor's press and press the bushings into the arm and on to the shaft ends. I plan to grease the shaft well also.





1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


Edited by Andy4639 on 03-06-18 06:45 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2503

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-06-18 07:49 PM - Post#2726697    
    In response to Andy4639

A word of caution. If the "ears" of the control arm are not properly supported, you run the risk of bending them, causing you to replace the control arm, instead of being able to reuse it. This is what happened with my upper control arm, when I had the bushings replaced by a local mechanic. One ear bent in slightly, and it was enough to cause a constant squeak. I just replaced it, and when the bent control arm was placed alongside of the replacement, it was clearly bent, even though it didn't look like it in the car.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-07-18 04:04 AM - Post#2726717    
    In response to junky

Thanks for the tip. I'll make sure they are supported good. Hope to get it off tonight and the old bushings out. I got the car on jacks and the front wheel off yesterday after work before we left for birthday supper.
Tonight is free nothing else planned so I hope to get the spindle off and the arm out. If that goes well I'll see how much trouble the old bushings are to get out.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
1963er 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 262
1963er
Age: 67
Loc: Joppa, Md.
Reg: 12-20-15
03-07-18 05:34 AM - Post#2726720    
    In response to Andy4639

I used an air chisel to get my old ones out...



 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-07-18 06:42 PM - Post#2726795    
    In response to 1963er

Well I must be living right guy's!
I started taking the lower control arm off today after work. The spring compressor I had wouldn't go inside the lower arm hole to go into the spring. So I wrapped a chain around the upper arm and frame through the spring to hold it in place while I took the fork to the lower ball joint. It worked like a champ. Not that I would want to do it that way every time but it did just fine.
Ok the arm comes off with no problems so I put it in my vise deciding on how to proceed. I took my 2 lb small sledge hammer and a big center punch and 2 blows each both bushings fell out! I'm telling you I must have done something right.

So I cleaned up the bushing area good and I put a small amount of grease on the bushing and inside it and used a old socket and again 2 hits and they are seated. I was pleased to say the least.
The only thing is the shock nuts inside the lower arm are stripped out. The shock was nutted so I think I'll get some nuts and weld them in before reassembly. It will make it a lot easier to put back together.
Hopefully I'll finish up tomorrow before bed time.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2503

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-07-18 07:31 PM - Post#2726802    
    In response to Andy4639

Try to find some grade 8 nuts for the lower shocks. Run a bolt into the nut, to hold it into place when you weld it to the control arm.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-08-18 04:22 AM - Post#2726834    
    In response to junky

  • junky Said:
Try to find some grade 8 nuts for the lower shocks. Run a bolt into the nut, to hold it into place when you weld it to the control arm.




That's what I plan to do. Ace hardware has bolts, nuts & washers grade 8.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
kingkreeton 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1155
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-08-18 04:41 AM - Post#2726836    
    In response to Andy4639

Awesome!! its nice when a hard job ends up being easy. We all know that easy jobs have been hard a time or two.

We all deserve a break sometimes.

Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed

"Let's go Reds"


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-08-18 05:38 AM - Post#2726844    
    In response to kingkreeton

  • kingkreeton Said:
Awesome!! its nice when a hard job ends up being easy. We all know that easy jobs have been hard a time or two.

We all deserve a break sometimes.



Ant that the truth!



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-08-18 08:24 PM - Post#2726944    
    In response to Andy4639

Well I'm glad that's over with! Man it was more of a problem putting it all back together than getting it all a part!

I had to get my buddy to go back to his shop and get another set of spring compressor's so I could install the dang thing. I got everything buttoned up though. I even rotated the drivers side wheels.
All bolts are now grade 8 with nuts and lock thread on them. I greased all the fittings to.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
paintman 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 610
paintman
Loc: Smoky Mts., Tenn.
Reg: 02-27-12
03-09-18 01:31 PM - Post#2727030    
    In response to Andy4639



Rich



1962 Chevy Impala Convertible 283 Auto
1964 Impala SS Coupe 327 250 Auto
2010 Mustang GT Convertible 5 speed


 
paintman 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 610
paintman
Loc: Smoky Mts., Tenn.
Reg: 02-27-12
03-09-18 01:32 PM - Post#2727031    
    In response to paintman

Don't forget to get the front end aligned.

Rich



1962 Chevy Impala Convertible 283 Auto
1964 Impala SS Coupe 327 250 Auto
2010 Mustang GT Convertible 5 speed


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-09-18 06:55 PM - Post#2727061    
    In response to paintman

  • paintman Said:
Don't forget to get the front end aligned.




I went to 2 places today to get the front end aligned. Neither one could do it said the rear was to low to get the targets on and centered. I'll call Monday to the guys that did it when I had the wheels & tires installed.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-12-18 09:16 AM - Post#2727316    
    In response to Andy4639

Called the place that I got the wheels & tires from. They have me down for 1pm Wednesday. That should get me to the beach before dark I hope since time changed!


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 151
55Brodie
Age: 66
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
03-12-18 01:04 PM - Post#2727343    
    In response to Andy4639

I hope your heater is working Andy. It's 43 degrees in MB right now with gusty winds and scattered rain. Pretty raw....and rude.



 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1103

Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-12-18 01:10 PM - Post#2727344    
    In response to 55Brodie

  • 55Brodie Said:
I hope your heater is working Andy. It's 43 degrees in MB right now with gusty winds and scattered rain. Pretty raw....and rude.




Yes it works fine! It's suppose to warm up by Friday. I'll be down late Wednesday night after work and front alignment. If you come out to the show look for me. I'll have water and chair to seat for awhile.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
This Forum is Sponsored by
1-800-IMPALAS  *  www.impalas.com
Visit Impala Bob's forum on ChevyTalk
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