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Username Post: 2 odd-ball questions        (Topic#349812)
Stinky 
Senior Member
Posts: 1600

Loc: Whitewater, CO
Reg: 05-25-01
02-24-18 08:43 PM - Post#2725495    

I am working on 2 Jap vehicles...yeah I know there are Jap forums, but most of the guys on the ones that I am a member can't hold a candle to youse guys (yall).

The 1st one is a '99 Honda Cr-V. The sparkplug gap opened up .015-.018 in 33K miles (started out at .040 and was .055-.058 on the 4 plugs). This is at least the 3rd time it has done it. It did it w/Iridium plugs and 1x before them w/NGK U-Grooves (which I just pulled out, so twice w/the NGKs). The 1st time it did it I thought that I'd screwed up the gapping and ever since then I have meticulously installed them. I am sure of the growing gap. I have changed distributors in the past (I bought a complete motor about 100K ago) and checked the coil. What the Hey?

I am putting a progressive Weber on my 4 cylinder Nissan PU w/a Z24 motor. I just put a kit in it. It will not let gas in. The float is set to specs (about 3/4"). I pulled the gas line and had the E-fuel pump fill a plastic bottle. The bottle appears to fill up an acceptable amount in 10 seconds or so. So, that seems fine, and it was fine w/the worn out Nissan carb (tremendous throttle shaft play). Then, I pour the gas in the carb's vent. It will start and run afterwards, and once the spilled gas is gone, it dies. If I place my hand over the carb and choke it (I do mean choke it, no air, for the most part), it will run, and then die once I remove the hand. So, I am gonna pull the top off and screw w/the float tomorrow. Ideas?



 




Stinky 
Senior Member
Posts: 1600

Loc: Whitewater, CO
Reg: 05-25-01
02-24-18 09:55 PM - Post#2725500    
    In response to Stinky

Well, I just spent about 30 minutes on the internet. The information that I found is totally different from what I read in my kit's literature...IOW, my float is way low and set wrong.



 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3335

Reg: 04-15-05
02-25-18 09:06 AM - Post#2725521    
    In response to Stinky

As you are aware, the center electrode should have a square pattern on it. If the end of the electrode is rounded off, this would be considered normal, and that erosion is enhanced with the added heat of "on the edge lean" mixtures in emissions engines.

This is why the recommendation to replace plugs that have the rounded centers is made, over regapping.

I had one of those Weber's years ago, one day, it went into no run, dry bowl. Turned out to be that the float needle, which is a pressed together part, came apart, with it's spring holding the float down, and the needle against the seat, all at once. Replacing the needle and setting the float fixed it.



 
Stinky 
Senior Member
Posts: 1600

Loc: Whitewater, CO
Reg: 05-25-01
02-26-18 08:40 PM - Post#2725766    
    In response to IgnitionMan

IgnitionMan...thanks for the reply. The center electrode is well worn...more so on the backside, towards the ground-electrode. The U-groove is just barely visible. 3 of em were real white, and one was just slightly tan.



Edited by Stinky on 02-26-18 08:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3335

Reg: 04-15-05
02-27-18 03:58 AM - Post#2725794    
    In response to Stinky

If they are a U Groove design and have more than 20K miles on them, they are trash can/engine paint hole closers.

Really white is the way they should look for a serious emissions engine that is working correctly, tan might be from a leaky/dirty fuel injector, and/or single coil mounted on a single plug ignition system.

Engines that run this lean normally are constantly eating center electrode on their spark plugs. My 1991 Toyota Camry 2.5 V6 goes 22K to 23K on plug sets, eats Center electrodes, and if center electrodes are re-squared off and re-gapped, they wear even fasters​.



 




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