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Username Post: I'm shocked! (Long post)        (Topic#349146)
jhutch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 12-18-17
01-13-18 10:34 PM - Post#2720988    

I have a 62 Bel Air Wagon. I've owned the car almost 2 years and when I purchased the car it needed rear wheel bearings. I had a shop do the work and all was good. Well, I determined that the leak from the differential was bugging me and I was going to fix it. So I jacked up the car and as I was pulling off the rear wheels I had a problem pulling the drivers side wheel and had to jack the pass side to twist the axle up enough to get the wheel off. This lead to realize that the bushings were toast and it was time to do some work.

I was going to make an attempt at pressing out the bushings and install new rubber into the trailing arms, but after an hour I realized that I didn't have the right tools and paying a shop to press them out plus the cost of bushings put me about 50% of the way to new stuff - so I bit the bullet and ordered CPP tubular upper & lower trailing arms and adjustable pan hard with PolyPlus bushings.

When I purchased the car, the prior owner had CPP 1.5" lower springs for the rear he never installed. I figured now was the time to install since the OG springs were probably sagged out.

Finally, the car had manual air shocks - these were toast. I decided to replace with gas shocks and found on Summit a pair of Belltech Street Performance Shocks 2209IH. Looked good and price was right so I ordered a pair.

I get it all back together. Torque it all down. Adjust the panhard bar. Mount the springs. Go to put the wheels back on...

I can't get them on! ugh. They are 225s on 15" rims - not huge. but I can't get them to fit between the top of the drum and the body! I had to remove the lower shock connection to get the axle to drop down another inch or so to get the clearance for the tire to fit thru then reconnect the shock.

I'm curious who else has run into this? Did you live with it?

When I pulled the old shocks off someone had stood the top of the shock off with a 1" spacer to lower the shock. I could put the spacers back in but then I'm concerned about topping out on the shocks.

Anyway, thanks for the rant. Comments appreciated!




 
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MrImpalaMan 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 317
MrImpalaMan
Age: 52
Loc: Jefferson City Mo
Reg: 10-16-12
01-14-18 05:54 AM - Post#2720992    
    In response to jhutch

I was shocked by this too when I changed to my rally wheels and different tires. I have 225-75-15 tires and they wouldn't go on! In my mind I thought there has to be a trick to this because my new wheels and tires came off of a 64 Impala so they should fit on my 64 Impala. Heres how I did it: raise up the rear and secure it with jack stands to be safe. push the bottom of the tire/wheel under the rear drum and then lift the tire/wheel up and over the top of the drum. It should go on that way. that's how I do it anyway.

Paul
1964 Impala SS 327 4 speed


 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6785
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
01-14-18 05:57 AM - Post#2720993    
    In response to jhutch

These cars used a bumper jack, so the body lifted a long ways up before the wheel came up. That gave lots of room to remove the tire. Your 225 15 is a little taller than stock and definitely wider than stock and you were not lifting the body up via the bumper.
I jack the car up via the axle then lift the body by jacking on the frame, as high as needed to get the tire to drop. Get AAA for a road flat.
The 62 is much easier than a 59, they almost have a built in fender skirt.

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5345
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
01-14-18 08:59 AM - Post#2721009    
    In response to DonSSDD

If you do one side at a time, it should work fine. Jack up the frame under the front mount for the lower control arm until the tire is off the ground. The only reason why that wouldn't work is if your coils are so short that they are fully extended before the axle is low enough.

Verne



 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 962
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
01-14-18 10:32 AM - Post#2721013    
    In response to jhutch

I do not know anything about the shocks you are using. Do they have enough 'extension' in them?

Pete



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2502

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
01-14-18 10:39 AM - Post#2721014    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

Verne... wouldn't the coils continue downward until the shocks stopped the differential from falling any further, and if the coils were "too short", they would just come loose? I would think that the limiting effect would be the extended length of the shock as being the determining factor. I understand that doing one side at a time, would cause the differential to angle giving additional clearance, but it would still be limited to the total distance of the shocks ability to extend.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
jhutch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 12-18-17
01-14-18 11:05 AM - Post#2721016    
    In response to junky

Junky has it right. Once I removed the shock the axle on that side would drop lower.

The tire "buldge" won't fit with the shock on.

Question for you all - did the shock simply mount to the shock spot on the frame or was their a spacer? When I pulled the old ones off they had about a 1" spacer - perhaps I need those back on?




 
turbo38s10 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1540
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
01-14-18 11:13 AM - Post#2721017    
    In response to jhutch

I seem to remember someone posted the different shock lenghts that were available a while back( can't find it now of course) but there was a big difference in some of them. You probably have shorter ones to match your shorter springs. I would look at longer shocks. Also I have larger tires and have to jack on the frame to get the tires off do to the larger width.



 
jhutch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8

Reg: 12-18-17
01-14-18 11:23 AM - Post#2721019    
    In response to turbo38s10

I've always jacked on the frame. I couldn't get the original 14" bias ply if I didn't jack there.

These shocks have a top of 19.5" and a low of 12". I need to check the resting length right now. Perhaps I can put the spacer in and still have enough travel on the shock.

I don't take the wheels off that often so it's really not that big of a deal to add this step but I don't recall anyone mentioning this problem so I was just a little surprised.




 
pvs409 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2134
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
01-14-18 12:08 PM - Post#2721023    
    In response to jhutch

On my 62’s I never remove the rear tires without using a bumper jack, or jack 1 side of the frame to unload the axle to drop it the maximum distance compared to the wheel opening on the body. This method will allows large tire removal & replacement.
Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4
62 ImpHT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible under frameoff
Web http://paulstensland.com/


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5345
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
01-14-18 02:10 PM - Post#2721026    
    In response to junky

Yes, obviously the limit is the shock extension. I was just stating that if the coils are short enough, they won't even extend the shock fully. Extreme case, I know.

Verne



 
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