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Username Post: Do I have the proper battery?        (Topic#349122)
Brian D from NJ 
Senior Member
Posts: 559
Brian D from NJ
Loc: Riverside, New Jersey
Reg: 04-28-04
01-11-18 07:39 PM - Post#2720826    

I've been having starting issues since about the middle of last year.

My B.A. is garage kept. When I've gone out to the garage to start it all I get is a "click" (starter/relay/other electrical?). When I check the battery, it's discharged. I put the charger on it and it comes right back and holds the charge.

When I try to start it again, nothing back to the click. And the battery shows discharged again.

The engine does not want to turn over. The battery is two years old. The tag on it shows 800 CA amps at 32 degrees and 650 CCA amps at Zero degrees.

Could there be an electrical problem drawing the battery down? The electrical system is stock in this car.





Just because your car/truck was "Made In America" doesn't mean it's American made... think about it. Buy American First.


 

YOUNG57 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1040

Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
01-12-18 07:54 AM - Post#2720844    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

It may be a bad battery but…

Do you know if the generator/alternator is charging? Check the generator/alternator’s output while the engine is running with digital volt meter, it should 14 + volts at the battery.

As a test to see if there is a drain on the battery remove the battery’s negative cable after you shut it off for the day and see if it lost its charge or will start the next day.



 
Brian D from NJ 
Senior Member
Posts: 559
Brian D from NJ
Loc: Riverside, New Jersey
Reg: 04-28-04
01-12-18 10:33 AM - Post#2720857    
    In response to YOUNG57

Thanks. Next thing I'm checking.

Just because your car/truck was "Made In America" doesn't mean it's American made... think about it. Buy American First.


 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11008
acardon
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
01-12-18 10:47 AM - Post#2720859    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

  • Quote:
My B.A. is garage kept. When I've gone out to the garage to start it all I get is a "click" (starter/relay/other electrical?). When I check the battery, it's discharged. I put the charger on it and it comes right back and holds the charge.

When I try to start it again, nothing back to the click. And the battery shows discharged again.



How long between charging it enough to start the engine and when you try to start it again?
Yes, you could have something drawing the battery down. Try disconnecting the battery until you try to start it again, and see if it's run down.
A fast charge may bring the battery back up, but it may not be fully charged. Try a slow charge for several days.

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
pauldian 
Contributor
Posts: 242

Loc: seligman,arizona
Reg: 05-14-09
01-12-18 11:47 AM - Post#2720863    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

The first thing I would do is to clean the battery post and where the ground wire is connected, charge the battery and go from there.



 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12122

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
01-12-18 08:26 PM - Post#2720896    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

The battery could be bad. Have it tested.
You could have a curent draw. Remove cable test as suggested.
A bad battery cable or bad connections possible.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
Brian D from NJ 
Senior Member
Posts: 559
Brian D from NJ
Loc: Riverside, New Jersey
Reg: 04-28-04
01-13-18 08:39 PM - Post#2720979    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

Hi Gene, I'm going to do some of the suggestions mentioned here. I have no heat in the garage. It was zero to negative 4 a couple of days last week . Of course, it was about 64 here yesterday (Friday). I'll have to get some fuel for the torpedo heater.

Just as an aside, I did bring the battery indoors to charge it. Placed it on the kitchen floor. (Haven't heard the last of it from the girlfriend!)

I'm going take it to Autozone to get it checked this week.

Thanks

Just because your car/truck was "Made In America" doesn't mean it's American made... think about it. Buy American First.


 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12122

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
01-13-18 09:06 PM - Post#2720983    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

It can be dangerous to charge a battery in a confined area.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
Bad56Sedan 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 922
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
02-04-18 06:21 PM - Post#2723341    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

There is a way to find a current draw using a volt meter.
With the volt meter set correctly, and the car NOT running you pull one fuse at a time until the volt meter shows a drop in amps drawn or milli amps.
Yes, some items can not be trouble shooted this way.
You would think current draw would be zero, but we know the clock winds every now an then causing a current draw.
The field winding in the gen draws some current also.
Unfortunately on the day I was learning how to use my voltmeter in this method I was NOT paying attention.
Someone knows how to do this and there is a list some where of stand still current draw.
I'm hoping Don can correct me on what I'm trying to describe.
Thanks in advance, I'm listening this time.

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 38 Years



Edited by Bad56Sedan on 02-04-18 06:23 PM. Reason for edit: I can't spell

 
Bluemeany 
Senior Member
Posts: 830
Bluemeany
Loc: Santa Clara, CA
Reg: 05-31-02
02-05-18 12:55 PM - Post#2723439    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

The best way to find what is drawing current from the battery is with a DMM (Digital Multi Meter). The engine should be off and the ignition switch in the off position. You're going to connect the DMM in series with the positive battery connection.
To accomplish this, disconnect the positive post connection from the battery.
Set the DMM in the current DC mode. Connect the black DMM lead to the positive red battery post. Using a hose clamp works good for this. Connect the red DMM lead to the positive battery cable clamp that was removed. Be careful so that none of these connections short to ground. If something is draining the battery, the meter will show a reading in milliamps. If the meter does show current draw, you'll have to find out what is drawing current. Bad56sedan has a good idea to remove fuses one by one until the current draw is zero.
Do you have a Hidden Audio system? I've seen those draw current with the car off. Another common culprit is the dome light since it is powered hot all the time. The push button switch in the door jam have been known to get wet and create an internal short to ground. Also check the brake light switch circuit since it is also hot with the key off. The clock mechanically winds with an electromagnet periodically as Bad56sedan mentioned.

On the other hand maybe your problem is not the battery. Is it possible you could have a bad starter? Maybe the solenoid?

57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car


 
Brian D from NJ 
Senior Member
Posts: 559
Brian D from NJ
Loc: Riverside, New Jersey
Reg: 04-28-04
02-07-18 09:22 AM - Post#2723632    
    In response to Bluemeany

"On the other hand maybe your problem is not the battery. Is it possible you could have a bad starter? Maybe the solenoid?"

Yes, I'm checking both. Gotta get some heat in my garage. Its been freezing in NJ this year. Will try to provide updates.

Thanks for your replies.


Just because your car/truck was "Made In America" doesn't mean it's American made... think about it. Buy American First.


 
Jim Streib 
Senior Member
Posts: 452
Jim Streib
Loc: Saint Louis
Reg: 03-20-03
02-07-18 11:44 AM - Post#2723650    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

I know how it is with weather delays.

When you get back to it, this is how I check things on my 68 Chevy II Nova.

First I check the battery voltage with the engine not running and the doors closed. On mine last year before the season it was sitting at 12.85V which is very good.



I then start the motor up and then at a high idle see what the voltage goes up to and on mine it went to 14.86 which is also good.



I then remove one battery terminal and reset the meters leads and setting to read DC amps and then took a reading. Mine was at 0.01A which is fine considering I do have an aftermarket radio under the seat and the memory circuit draws that 0.01A. If I disconnect the radio from the car the reading then goes to 0.00A indicating no draw off of the battery.



I normally disconnect the battery on my car while it sits through the Midwest winters and have not had to put a battery charger on it at the beginning of the season but with yours I would charge the battery up then let it sit a while for the surface charge to bleed off then check the voltage without it being connected to the cars battery cables and see what the voltage is. Now take that number and compare it to charts found on the internet for "battery state of charge" and see how yours fits in. If it's decent then see how much voltage you get with the battery hooked up in the car and the motor running at a high idle. Normally you need to see 1V more than when the motor was not running to charge the battery back up after starting it.

When doing an amp draw test, the most I ever like seeing is 0.02A and on some high end cars I've worked on with a bunch of electronics, they might be getting close to 0.08A or so and in the owners manual they tell the owner to drive the car every month for at least 30 miles of so to keep the battery up. If you have more than 0.02A with a stock electrical system and no aftermarket devices, then the alternator or regulator could be having issues.

Keep us posted once it warms up.

Jim



1968 Chevy II Nova (Garage Find 2013)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/ albums...

https://www.youtube.com/user/StlNovas/videos

1973 Nova Custom
1974 Nova Spirit Of America


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
03-16-18 03:03 PM - Post#2727853    
    In response to Bluemeany

If you do this on the negative post you don't have to worry about shorting out. Has always worked for me. Have a good one

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
Bluemeany 
Senior Member
Posts: 830
Bluemeany
Loc: Santa Clara, CA
Reg: 05-31-02
03-26-18 03:08 PM - Post#2729020    
    In response to J REID

Agreed, makes no difference and safer.

57 Hardtop 302 & 3 Speed OD
93 Camaro Z28 Indy Pace Car


 
rod 
Senior Member
Posts: 1615

Loc: kingman,az
Reg: 04-29-00
05-06-18 11:21 AM - Post#2733184    
    In response to Brian D from NJ

a few other things to check. if you have an original gen. pull the drive belt off. I have seen the regulator screw up and it makes the gen a motor. with no drive belt the gen. will spin away. weird but has happened. also make sure the bat. ground strap is clean, both at the terminal and when it fastens to the firewall [right behind the bat]. then make sure the ground strap between the started and the toe board is clean. the gen/alt can charge all they want, but if the charge wont go into the bat. then all is for naught.as above,if you put the meter inline, use the ground cable. if you are using the original #12 black wire from the reg. to the key to the starter sol. make sure all the ends are good and clean. over the years the eye at the sol. becomes dirty and frayed. one last thing. even if A.Z. tells you the battery is good, get a 2nd test elsewhere. lots of times A.Z. will tell you the bat. is good, when it is not, so they dont have to warranty it!!!
Rod in AZ




 
Brian D from NJ 
Senior Member
Posts: 559
Brian D from NJ
Loc: Riverside, New Jersey
Reg: 04-28-04
05-08-18 05:55 AM - Post#2733370    
    In response to rod

Rod, sent you a PM.

Just because your car/truck was "Made In America" doesn't mean it's American made... think about it. Buy American First.


 

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