Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power Windows
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy



Username Post: Oil pressure sensor        (Topic#348825)
Jeffrey0180 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32

Age: 18
Loc: The Netherlands
Reg: 12-22-17
12-23-17 07:51 AM - Post#2718838    

Hey everyone,

I want to remove the 90 degree elbow that sits in the block, do i need to remove the distributor to remove it? Its a 1994 TBI 350. And will removing the distributor cause any timing problems?



 
CowboyTrukr 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3908
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
12-23-17 09:41 AM - Post#2718846    
    In response to Jeffrey0180

It’s a bit easier to do it with the distributor out because you can see it better. Try it with just the cap off. That way you won’t be messing with the timing.

Simply removing and replacing the distributor won’t cause problems so long as you stab it back in place correctly and reset the timing properly as per spec. Do you have a standard timing light?

I’ve done R&R on a distributor without problems many times. The key is to mark your reference points very well with some masking tape and a Sharpie. Label all your plug wires, lay down a solid #1 cylinder reference, mark the cap, the housing under the cap, and the exact position of the rotor under the cap before you loosen the clamp bolt. You’ll find it a bit easier if you already have the rotor lined up with wire #1. (Timing mark already set at 0). The key to remember is that the rotor is going to need to rotatate a few degrees counter clockwise as you lift it from the manifold. Don’t forget to mark that second position on the housing. It will make resetting things a lot easier.

Don’t forget to pull the tan/Black timing advance connector open to set your base timing again.

Be very careful to not put any horizontal stress on the vertical while you are removing the pressure switch.

If you don’t mind me asking, where are you putting the pressure switch after you remove the 90?

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
Jeffrey0180 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32

Age: 18
Loc: The Netherlands
Reg: 12-22-17
12-23-17 12:15 PM - Post#2718856    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

I am removing the 90 because i suspect an oil leak coming from it, i am also gonna replace the paper gasket beneat the distributor since its really wet around there to, i am gonna put the 90 back with some sealant.

I do not own a timing light, nor have i ever done the timing on the igniton, but if i mark everthing correctly i wont have to many problems with the timing? As long as it starts and runs i can take it to a shop.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3867
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
12-23-17 03:09 PM - Post#2718871    
    In response to Jeffrey0180

You can probably get the timing close. Getting it within 10° by marks will be close to impossible. Spend $40 on a timing light. That's probably close to what someone will charge you to time it and you'll be able to do it yourself next time.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

259 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.229 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 10:14 AM
Top