 Mick53
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 158
Loc: Northern Indiana
Reg: 04-02-16
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12-16-17 10:42 PM - Post#2718212
I will be starting on the chassis of my 53 chevy pickup soon. I am told I should use a two part epoxy primer/sealer first once I get it to bare metal. I will be doing it in small sections and do not have a spray booth. Is there something I can use in a rattle can that will work. If not can I mix up small amounts and use a touch up gun. How hard is it to clean out of the gun being it is epoxy and what is my working time. As usual I know very little about this. Thank you.
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WagonCrazy
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3048
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
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12-19-17 08:43 AM - Post#2718415
In response to Mick53
Best place to start when you are ready to learn is to jump on youtube.com and spend some time watching/listening/learni ng.
try a youtube search for "epoxy primer application" and start there.
57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow
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66cayne
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2725
Reg: 08-06-08
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12-19-17 02:43 PM - Post#2718452
In response to Mick53
Yes! There are several 2 part epoxy primers available in spray cans. Kyrlon, Rustoleum and Eastwood all have cans available. They only last about 2-3 days once activated but that should be plenty of time for a small job.
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100 CHEVY
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6274
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
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12-19-17 04:21 PM - Post#2718460
In response to Mick53
I do a lot of small parts and areas on my 57.
Normally,I mix it,let it "Breath" some,then just brush it on.Takes 2 coats to cover well.
If you use sandable epoxy ,it can be easily smoothed out for final paint.
And,I just clean my gun like normal paint gun cleaning with laquer thinner.
Mike. 
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Mick53
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 158
Loc: Northern Indiana
Reg: 04-02-16
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12-21-17 05:46 AM - Post#2718635
In response to 100 CHEVY
Great advice. Thank you. This forum is awesome.
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kool53
Member
Posts: 802
Loc: Mukwonago, WI
Reg: 06-18-04
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12-23-17 09:21 AM - Post#2718844
In response to WagonCrazy
Best place to start when you are ready to learn is to jump on youtube.com and spend some time watching/listening/learni ng.
try a youtube search for "epoxy primer application" and start there.
I dont know about YouTube being the "Best" place to get information about anything- seen some real dumb-asses on there. Take what you see there with a grain of salt, you're better of asking your questions here. These guys are a wealth of knowledge!
Edited by kool53 on 12-23-17 09:22 AM. Reason for edit: I can't spell to save my live
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4dr 57
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4500
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
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01-12-18 09:10 AM - Post#2720850
In response to Mick53
Something you might consider doing before you apply the epoxy is to make a provisions for your ground straps, cable and wires to be bare after the application.
Stanley
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 toro455
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 432
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
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01-14-18 10:27 AM - Post#2721012
In response to Mick53
VHT makes an epoxy paint which requires no primer. My perception is that it might be a primer /sealer itself. In any case I've had good success with it when taken down to bare metal for things like brackets. I wasn't aware of the 2 part epoxy paints in a spray can until seeing it here. I would be interested in hearing if others have experience with both. The VHT products seem to adhere well and have good resistance to chemical attack.
Here's the name:
VHT SP652 Satin Black Epoxy All Weather Paint Can - 11 oz.
Traditionally it comes in a Purple can. The local AutoZone told me the can was changed recently but because I see it in the Purple can on Amazon I hope what the Zone sold me is indeed the same actual paint. I am attaching a photo of the one I typically use.
Scott
Edited by toro455 on 01-14-18 10:33 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 Hugomiller
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 108
Age: 67
Loc: Florida and UK
Reg: 05-02-17
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02-18-18 11:56 AM - Post#2724771
In response to toro455
The point about epoxy, as I understand it, is that it makes a good sealer, to keep air & water out & prevent further rusting. POR 15 is a far better sealer in my opinion. It sticks like nothing on earth. Treat any rust with POR metal-prep rust treatment first, then brush on satin-finish POR 15 paint. There is contradictory information on their website about whether it is best to apply POR 15 gloss black first, prior to the satin black. If you do go that route, once it has cured, the gloss black with need to be keyed before applying the satin finish. I'm going straight on with the satin black on my chassis. The satin black can also be hard to track down on their website, but it does exist!
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