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Username Post: replacing body mounting bushings        (Topic#348597)
tk63impala 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 27

Loc: nc
Reg: 01-29-17
12-07-17 05:52 PM - Post#2717225    

I want to replace the body mounting bushings on my 1963 impala 2 door sedan- can I replace the bushings by just slightly lifting the body off the frame and does the whole body have to be lifted at the same time- can I lift the front put in new bushings- then lift the rear and replace the bushings- can someone share some advise-



 
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69_BOWTIE 
Senior Member
Posts: 985

Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
12-07-17 06:51 PM - Post#2717231    
    In response to tk63impala

You have 6 bushings 2 in front,2 behind each wheel and 2 in rear. Yes you can on the front, you will have have to loosen all 4 in rear.Get a pry bar and start at 1 mount remove and replace you may have a shim in certain ones so keep that in mind. Allso the 2 behind the rear wheels are more than likely rusted and will be a PITA.

2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327


 
Brian64SS 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1147
Brian64SS
Loc: Milwaukee, Wi
Reg: 09-30-00
12-07-17 08:13 PM - Post#2717247    
    In response to 69_BOWTIE

There are 8 bushings, 2 at the firewall, 2 above the rear axle, 2 at the box braces at the front of the trunk and 2 at the back of the trunk by the bumper. There aren't any at the radiator support.

This is how I did it. With the front fenders off, the gas tank out and the back bumper off, it was easy to jack the back of the body up with a beam or a couple of 2 x 8's across the underside of the car where the gas tank was. Slip the 6 in that go in the back. Lower the back but don't tighten them too much yet. Jack up the front just far enough to replace the 2 at the firewall. Tighten them all a little at a time.

As the rubber compresses with time, you'll want to go back and retighten them.



Brian
1964 Impala SS, 283 (not original), 4-speed (25 years)
1964 Impala 4-door hardtop, 283 Powerglide (2 years)
They made a million but I only have two.


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5297
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
12-08-17 08:53 AM - Post#2717305    
    In response to Brian64SS

That's how I did mine, except I did the fronts first. The hardest part of the job was having to remove the rear bumper so the body could go high enough to get to the ones over the rear axle.
Don't tighten them until you have the rear bumper back on and check the side to side clearance between the bumper and the quarters. You might have to nudge the body to one side or the other to make it even.

Verne



 
junky 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2451

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
12-08-17 04:45 PM - Post#2717338    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

Is replacing the body mounting bushings, something that you would recommend being done based on the age of the vehicles, even if the car exhibits no symptoms of leaning etc.? Will it improve the vehicles ride or handling?

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5297
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
12-08-17 08:12 PM - Post#2717362    
    In response to junky

This is the reason why I replaced mine. Now the speedo cable fits between the body and the frame as it should. It also makes it easier to align the front sheet metal to the body (as designed).

As for ride, I would expect less road feel transmitted to the body.

Verne

Looks better now, huh?

Attachment: LH_frame_mount.JPG (2.34 MB) 14 View(s)




Attachment: RH_body_mount.JPG (1.35 MB) 14 View(s)






Edited by Verne_Frantz on 12-08-17 08:18 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2451

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
12-08-17 09:48 PM - Post#2717370    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

Thanks .. I will have to take a look at mine, to determine there condition. Do you have to pull the front end sheet metal to do the fronts? I assume that you should do all of them at once? Seems like everything that I touch on this car, leads to another unexpected project.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Brian64SS 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1147
Brian64SS
Loc: Milwaukee, Wi
Reg: 09-30-00
12-09-17 08:25 AM - Post#2717389    
    In response to junky

Unless your car spent it's life in the desert, the nuts for the 6 in back usually turn with the bolts. They're square nuts captured in sheet metal so they wouldn't turn during factory assembly but after 50+ years they probably will. The 2 above the axle and 2 by the back bumper are under the small sheet metal domes in the trunk floor. You might want to drill a small hole in the domes to get penetrating oil inside first. If that doesn't work, you might have to cut into the domes to get an acetylene torch or vise-grip on the nuts or to cut the nut off.

On a rusty car, the body and frame-mount holes above and below the bushings might have rusted out, closer to the size of bushings, which will lead to more surgery. My 1st 4-door hardtop was like that back in the '80's.

Brian
1964 Impala SS, 283 (not original), 4-speed (25 years)
1964 Impala 4-door hardtop, 283 Powerglide (2 years)
They made a million but I only have two.


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5297
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
12-09-17 08:48 AM - Post#2717390    
    In response to Brian64SS

It's possible to get a nozzle on a can of penetrating oil into the areas where the threads extend through the nuts. I soaked mine down a few times over a few days, broke the bolts loose, then threaded the bolts out BY HAND. I was fortunate to have such a rust-free car.

Verne



 
69_BOWTIE 
Senior Member
Posts: 985

Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
12-09-17 09:47 AM - Post#2717394    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

Sorry my bad forgot about the ones at rear axle , my car has spent its entire life here in the rocky mt, region ,the 2 box braces were the only ones that seized up on mine which were replaced completely on frame up resto. Good luck

2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327


 
tk63impala 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 27

Loc: nc
Reg: 01-29-17
12-09-17 09:00 PM - Post#2717454    
    In response to 69_BOWTIE

Good evening, I would like to Thank everyone who responded to my question with all the information an insight- having a plan makes things go a little easier- to all be blessed.



 
AUPAUL 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 65

Age: 71
Loc: Hoover Alabama
Reg: 11-01-16
12-12-17 10:54 PM - Post#2717753    
    In response to tk63impala

Trick for stuck RUSTY NUTS. on YOUTUBE
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ba2_1475277076

1963 Impala SS
1956 Handyman wagon sold
1955 Belair 2dr ht.


 
junky 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2451

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
12-13-17 01:01 AM - Post#2717758    
    In response to AUPAUL

This is a good teaching video, because it give a bunch of different ways to remove the bolt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSxwMwgjG4w


Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
bruno 
Senior Member
Posts: 3210
bruno
Loc: Curitiba, PR, Brazil
Reg: 10-04-04
12-13-17 05:03 AM - Post#2717760    
    In response to junky

I have a crack right in the middle of the driver's side rear wheel well since I bought the car 13+ years ago.

Now that I've been driving it a bit, I noticed that the crack extended about an inch or two, but there's also sorta stress seam that is running from the crack up until the rear window moulding.

Could that be related to bad body mount bushings?

Bruno Leite Two tons of steel, one hundred miles an hour. No looking back, grooving on the power. http://community.webshots.com/user/realenemy


 
junky 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2451

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
12-13-17 07:49 AM - Post#2717776    
    In response to bruno

Possibly, since stress cracks are a result of flexing and the flexing is a result of minute vibrations over a long period of time at the same location. The only way to stop a stress crack is to drill a hole at the top of it, and then weld the hole. Repair the crack and refinish as necessary. If you don't address it now, it will only get worse with time.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 938
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
12-13-17 09:02 AM - Post#2717784    
    In response to bruno

  • bruno Said:
I have a crack right in the middle of the driver's side rear wheel well since I bought the car 13+ years ago.

Now that I've been driving it a bit, I noticed that the crack extended about an inch or two, but there's also sorta stress seam that is running from the crack up until the rear window moulding.

Could that be related to bad body mount bushings?



Too hard to tell for sure but one of the jobs of the bushing is to dampen the motions of the frame from the body.

Another possibility is a frame weakened by years of cyclic loading (fatigue failure of the steel). Or, steel weakened by corrosion and failing under fatigue before it would otherwise.

The crack IS a failure of the steel. Cracks usually start at areas where stress is concentrated. Once started, the crack will propagate.

Drilling a hole and welding as Junky suggest will help relieve some of the stress concentration. A more permanent fix would be to cut out a section of the 'cracked' steel and replace it. Basically making it 'whole' again.

IF there is a lot of corrosion in the area, all that steel needs to be replaced. After doing all the structural repair, I'd replace the bushings.







 
4speedman 
Contributor
Posts: 116

Reg: 08-24-12
12-13-17 06:20 PM - Post#2717845    
    In response to japete92

I recently replaced the body bushings in a 63 by carefully jacking the the rear up the with wooden blocks placed on the supports.I did one side at a time and it worked out for me.I had soaked the bolts with lube beforehand and worked the bolts back and forth and i had one that gave me a little trouble but a little heat made it come loose.As Verne said leave the rear ones loose until your are finished and check the bumper fit on the sides,the body can be shifted a little side to side to make it equal.Also the bushings at the cowl area if they are compressed will affect the front fender aligment so check that and don't be afraid to us shims on the bushing if needed the factory used them.



 
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