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Username Post: 54 Powerglide flywheel        (Topic#348532)
skillsnyc 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17

Reg: 01-10-10
12-03-17 03:08 PM - Post#2716761    

Hi all,
I believe I need a flywheel & flexplate for a 54 Powerglide.
Here's the situation:


After a starter rebuild the car starts like a champ.
Maybe six months or so (depending on use) the starter will either begin to whine loudly or simply stop after about a second but will actually start the car if I try it again.

I've rebuilt my starter several times and I've had a few guys say the flywheel might be the culprit.
I've used different shops to do the rebuilds. After the last rebuild I was hitting the starter with a piece of wood three days later.

I converted the voltage from 6V to 12V.

Has this happened to anybody else?

Thanks!



Edited by skillsnyc on 12-03-17 03:14 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 

Chevs of the 40s

Airlifter 
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 502
Airlifter
Age: 73
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
12-03-17 03:45 PM - Post#2716766    
    In response to skillsnyc

If you want to go to a 12v starter you will need to find a starter from a 55-57 and flex plate from 55-62 235 engine.

I have the name of the place I bought my starter at m
home. The flex plate might be more of a challenge to find.

Hope this helps

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/54 engine & powerglide


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4325
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
12-03-17 04:10 PM - Post#2716769    
    In response to skillsnyc

Hi Skillsync. The 6 Volt and 12 Volt use different ring gears. Ray is the guru on this but they do not interchange.

There are two common fixes, The first and cheapest is to leave the starter motor 6V and Just replace the solenoid with a 12V one when the 6V fails. Or do it from the outset for piece of mind.
This works fine if you don't treat the starter as an auxiliary fuel pump and lean on it. Some guys, me included have run it like this for decades.

The second is to get a custom made starter that is a 12V unit with an older six volt pinion adapted. They don't just bolt together, it is a custom piece.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27755
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-03-17 05:14 PM - Post#2716780    
    In response to skillsnyc

If the starter spins without cranking the engine, this is most often caused by a defective starter drive. Before replacing the flexplate, definitely check the starter drive first. This is MUCH less work than replacing the flexplate, which requires removing the transmission.

Also, you would not want both a flywheel and a flexplate for the same car. With an automatic, you use a flexplate and with a manual trans you use a flywheel. You might want to change your ad in the classified forum accordingly.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
RAM_51 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4938
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
12-04-17 06:20 AM - Post#2716816    
    In response to skillsnyc

You may want to check your solenoid adjustment to make sure that is correct.

1951 Fleetline
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
skillsnyc 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17

Reg: 01-10-10
12-06-17 02:36 PM - Post#2717094    
    In response to raycow

>>If the starter spins without cranking the engine, this is most often caused by a defective starter drive.

===The starter always cranks. Sometimes it will stop after a second. Not even one revolution. Just *cronk*. I wait a second and it'll start.
The last time it stopped and it refused to start.


>>Before replacing the flexplate, definitely check the starter drive first. This is MUCH less work than replacing the flexplate, which requires removing the transmission.





>>Also, you would not want both a flywheel and a flexplate for the same car. With an automatic, you use a flexplate and with a manual trans you use a flywheel. You might want to change your ad in the classified forum accordingly.

===Man, I'm glad you guys no WAY more than I do about this!!

THANKS, you've helped immensely.




 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27755
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-06-17 07:00 PM - Post#2717117    
    In response to skillsnyc

  • skillsnyc Said:
.....The starter always cranks. Sometimes it will stop after a second. Not even one revolution. Just *cronk*. I wait a second and it'll start.....


Does this usually happen when the engine is warm? If yes, you may have the timing advanced too far. To check this, just pull the coil wire the next time it happens and see how it cranks then. If the cranking improves, you have too much advance.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
skillsnyc 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17

Reg: 01-10-10
12-09-17 03:36 PM - Post#2717428    
    In response to raycow

>>Does this usually happen when the engine is warm? If yes, you may have the timing advanced too far. To check this, just pull the coil wire the next time it happens and see how it cranks then. If the cranking improves, you have too much advance.<<

===OK! I'll check that. The other day I started it after sitting for five days. Cranked right up.

However, after being at work (about 12 hours) it kinda did "hang up" for a split second but continued to start.
After the ride home (30 minutes or so) I turned it off. I went back out a minute later and it started but only after it "hung up" for a second.

Thanks for the info and I will look at the coil.





 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27755
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-10-17 01:24 AM - Post#2717462    
    In response to skillsnyc

Just to make sure we are all on the same page here, I meant you should pull the coil wire only as a test, to see how the engine cranks without any spark. I did not in any way mean to imply that the coil may be defective.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
skillsnyc 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17

Reg: 01-10-10
12-10-17 12:31 PM - Post#2717489    
    In response to raycow

>>Just to make sure we are all on the same page here, I meant you should pull the coil wire only as a test, to see how the engine cranks without any spark. I did not in any way mean to imply that the coil may be defective.<<


===Oh, absolutely! Just to test how the starter is turning without the distributor in the mix.
Got it.

However, do you mean pulling the wire going TO the distributor or the wire going TO the coil?





 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27755
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-10-17 02:31 PM - Post#2717497    
    In response to skillsnyc

  • skillsnyc Said:
.....However, do you mean pulling the wire going TO the distributor or the wire going TO the coil?


In a perfect world, disconnect the wire at the distributor and place the end of the wire where the spark can easily jump to ground. This will prevent any excessive voltage buildup which could possibly damage the internal coil insulation.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 

Chevs of the 40s

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