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Username Post: 97 k1500 5.7 timing chain        (Topic#348435)
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
11-28-17 02:17 AM - Post#2716045    

I'm about to put a new chain and sprockets into my 97 k1500 5.7.

Is there anything else I should replace while doing this? Any tips or advice? Engine has 460 thousand on it.

I'm also replacing the cam position sensor.

Thank you



 
junkman104 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1233

Age: 59
Loc: Murphy N.C.
Reg: 01-25-14
11-28-17 05:59 AM - Post#2716059    
    In response to mattwehrwein

The plastic timing cover should always be replaced when removed.



 
Bowtie_Guy454 
Poster
Posts: 14

Age: 28
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 11-15-17
11-28-17 12:14 PM - Post#2716103    
    In response to junkman104

Like junkman said do timing chain cover its really a one time use cover the gasket is made on it. Only $22 bucks from parts store. I would drop oil pan also and change oil pump too with that many miles but thats just me.

91 Chevy r3500 crewcab dually 454
96 chevy tahoe 5.7
93 chevy suburban 4x4 5.7
91 s10 blazer 350sbc


 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
11-28-17 10:35 PM - Post#2716221    
    In response to junkman104

I already have a timing cover, cloyes gears and chain, delco cam position sensor ordered from rock auto.

The truck has a pretty decent miss and will kill when idling every now and then. Sometimes is hard to start and lacks power.

Codes came up as random multiple missfire, cam shaft position sensor, and crankshaft position sensor.

All new plugs, cap and rotor. ( will be ordering an ac delco cap and rotor and possibly wire set due to my bad luck with duralast parts. I put fuel injectors in and a new pressure regulator.

This will be my first time putting a timing chain and gears on one of these trucks. I was hoping to just have to remove the water pump maybe radiator to do this job and avoid having to drop the oil pan.



 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
11-29-17 01:06 PM - Post#2716266    
    In response to mattwehrwein

Would any of you recommend putting in a new delco distributor? Just wondering I have an AutoZone one in right now.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4032
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
11-29-17 01:12 PM - Post#2716267    
    In response to mattwehrwein

Did you have the timing set with a scan tool?

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
rockfangd 
"5th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2471
rockfangd
Age: 32
Loc: Utica ny
Reg: 04-13-10
11-29-17 07:51 PM - Post#2716325    
    In response to bowtie44s

I prefer to run delco caps and rotors only..
have had issues with cracking in even new caps, poor spacing in the points and in the rotor.
Both will cause issues

Old School GM fan FOREVER


 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-05-17 01:54 PM - Post#2716965    
    In response to bowtie44s

I got a cloyes timing set c-3092 an ac delco crank shaft position sensor a Felpro gasket set and new plastic timing cover with new bolts.

Everything just came in.

I've been having issues with bad 0-2 sensors even the delco ones for years. And been having issues with my cap and rotor for years getting corroded. Hopefully this will solve one of those issues as well.







 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-05-17 01:57 PM - Post#2716966    
    In response to rockfangd

I think I'll order a new cap and rotor plus wire set all delco just wondering if I should grab a distributor as well? I suppose the distributor isn't to bad to throw in if you mark everything really good and turn the engine to top dead.



 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2944

Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
12-05-17 03:58 PM - Post#2716976    
    In response to mattwehrwein

  • mattwehrwein Said:
I think I'll order a new cap and rotor plus wire set all delco just wondering if I should grab a distributor as well? I suppose the distributor isn't to bad to throw in if you mark everything really good and turn the engine to top dead.



The distributor needs to be set with a scanner that shows timing offset.... or offset of something. I've read that a lot of the cheaper scanners/readers don't do it.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-05-17 04:00 PM - Post#2716977    
    In response to 454cid

Oh yeah I've dropped a couple In I just rent the scan tool at one of the auto stores I forget the entire procedure for setting it but believe I got directions off this forum.



 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2944

Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
12-05-17 04:04 PM - Post#2716979    
    In response to mattwehrwein

  • mattwehrwein Said:
Oh yeah I've dropped a couple In I just rent the scan tool at one of the auto stores I forget the entire procedure for setting it but believe I got directions off this forum.



Please post whatever the make and model of the scanner is, and where you got it from, for future reference by forum members.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
CowboyTrukr 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4014
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
12-05-17 10:33 PM - Post#2717024    
    In response to 454cid

Yup. Cam retard angle. Set to 0+/-2 degrees at around 1200 rpm.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD
‘87 GMC S15 SCLB 4.3 Auto - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-06-17 04:16 PM - Post#2717101    
    In response to 454cid

It was at autozone I don't remember if it was an actron or different brand all I know is there were two different scanners one worked one didn't.

I know two different scanners that do work the snap on mt2500 and autoxray 6000.



 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-23-17 12:32 AM - Post#2718829    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

I have the chain and gears are put in greased and torqued to specs. I had one more question before finishing her up.

Well I didn't have to lower the oil pan I kept it in place my question is where the cover meets the pan there is this thick line of silicone or rtv sealant. Should I pull that off of the pan and apply some new petmatex? Or is it suppose to be like that. It's probably 1/2 inch to 5/8ths thick and perfectly shaped.

Thank you



 
Steveo_supremo 
Senior Member
Posts: 285
Steveo_supremo
Loc: B.C Canada
Reg: 05-04-03
12-24-17 03:27 PM - Post#2718937    
    In response to mattwehrwein

That is part of the oil pan gasket. It needs to stay there. You should have dropped the pan before removing the front cover. You can try to jury-rig it back together but it will most likely leak.

I'm not the pleasant pheasant plucker, I'm the pleasant pheasant plucker's son. I'm only presently plucking pheasants until the pleasant pheasant plucker comes.


 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
12-26-17 10:13 PM - Post#2719077    
    In response to Steveo_supremo

It slipped right into place actually. Everything is hooked up I'm having an issue now with the crank sensor. The truck won't fire at all. It's just cranks no pops or any sighn of starting at all.



 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
01-27-18 06:03 AM - Post#2722322    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

Ok I took everything back apart again even lowered my oil pan this time to see what was causing the no start condition. I found rtv sealant was on the reluctor ring. Cleaned that off real good then popped my new crank sensor into place. I put everything back together and it took a lot to get the truck to start and was idling at 1000 rpms.

I loosened the distributor hold down bolt and turned the distributor counter clockwise as far as I could and it idles slightly above 500 now. When I hit the gas I can tell there is a hesitation though.

I know for a fact my sprockets are lined up right for the chain. Could it be a bad distributor? Should I pull the distributor and move it a tooth over so I can adjust it some more? I know I put this distributor in about 4 years ago but have had issues with hard starting for a while now and it's a cheap AutoZone distributor.



 
mattwehrwein 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Loc: wisconsin
Reg: 03-18-09
01-27-18 06:34 AM - Post#2722323    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

Ok I took everything back apart again even lowered my oil pan this time to see what was causing the no start condition. I found rtv sealant was on the reluctor ring. Cleaned that off real good then popped my new crank sensor into place. I put everything back together and it took a lot to get the truck to start and was idling at 1000 rpms.

I loosened the distributor hold down bolt and turned the distributor counter clockwise as far as I could and it idles slightly above 500 now. When I hit the gas I can tell there is a hesitation though.

I know for a fact my sprockets are lined up right for the chain. Could it be a bad distributor? Should I pull the distributor and move it a tooth over so I can adjust it some more? I know I put this distributor in about 4 years ago but have had issues with hard starting for a while now and it's a cheap AutoZone distributor.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4032
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
01-27-18 07:22 AM - Post#2722328    
    In response to mattwehrwein

You don't set idle speed with timing. You're probably idling at 60° BTDC. You will break a piston. Set the timing with a timing light and fix the IAC.

EDIT: I just noticed it's a 97. You have to set the timing with a scan tool.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


Edited by bowtie44s on 01-27-18 07:25 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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