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Username Post: trans tunnel insulation        (Topic#348361)
hobbypoor 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 93

Age: 48
Loc: Middle Georgia
Reg: 07-07-11
11-23-17 06:01 PM - Post#2715515    

Before I began my rebuild..I remember a insulation type material on the underside of the trans tunnel (Powerglide). It was oil saturated, torn, muddy and ratty. I got rid of it, but cant find a replacement. I wondered if some kind of insulation/sound deadening would work in place...suggestions on a replacement? Im almost read to put the trans/engine back in and feel something should be there.

54 Belair 4 door. Auto.

Put together a piece at a time....twice.

If GM had as hard a time finding parts as I do they would have been out of business years ago.


 

2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18332
2blu52
Age: 84
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
11-23-17 07:35 PM - Post#2715525    
    In response to hobbypoor

Have you checked the Chevy parts manual available at Old Car Manuals on line? There may be a hint there. On my 216 CI 3 spd manual I used under coating, sprayed several coats on and seemed to help.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
DanD1950 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 842
DanD1950
Loc: London Ont. Canada
Reg: 10-16-11
11-24-17 05:30 AM - Post#2715550    
    In response to hobbypoor

What I did was to stick dynamat to the underside of the tunnel.



Even thou it's a peel and stick, I secured it with this type of washered zip ties. Drilled 1/8" holes through the tunnel to pass the ties through.



The ties are actually sold as an aftermarket transmission cooler install kit.

Dan.

50 Styleline Deluxe, 2 Door Sedan, Was a 216cu", Three Speed Manual. She now has a 4.8Lt V8 LR4 injected engine, 4L60E 4 speed automatic, 10 bolt diff 342 gear with an Eaton C80 Locker



 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 84
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
11-25-17 01:06 PM - Post#2715693    
    In response to DanD1950

I went the extreme route and used an industrial insulation that is rated up to 1200 degrees from Pacor. To protect and insure that it didn't fall out I used a thin sheet of galvanized steel as an outer shell/shield.

I'm considering using it as a carpet pad in place of the stuff that comes glued to the back of the carpet.

The stuff is amazing. You can hold it in your hand and put a heat gun on the other side and not feel ANY heat penetration.

http://www.pacorinc.com/
Pyrogel® XT-E Thickness & Length: 5mm, 15 ft @ $270.00
Product total: $270.00
Shipping total: $69.52
Grand Total: $339.52

Can't wait to get my new 350 in and test it under harsh conditions.



Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350 SBC, TH350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


Edited by 50_Fastback on 11-25-17 03:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4123
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-26-17 05:40 AM - Post#2715752    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Hi Guys, if you want to use Dynamat, it goes inside and will work well.

If you think you are getting a lot of transmission heat then you need a trans cooler. Excess heat is a huge Auto-transmission killer. It shouldn't be an issue in a road car or something is wrong.

You are far more likely to get exhaust heat particularly if you have it tucked it up tight for clearance. In the OE situation heat shields are used but for one of situations its far easier to just header wrap the underfloor pipes where it is an issue.

If I don't have header wrap on my 32 it burns the paint off the engines louvered side panels when sitting still.

Cheers Kiwi




48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 

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