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Username Post: nu-relics power window conduit        (Topic#348328)
T57 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 169
T57
Loc: NE Ill.
Reg: 01-07-06
11-21-17 02:22 PM - Post#2715231    

Hi folks!
Have my nu-relics power windows and was wondering if any of you good people would have any photos of how you routed the conduits.Both where you drill for the doors and,how to route thru to the back regulators.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx in advance...."T"....

IBEW
57 belair
ski-doo


Edited by T57 on 11-22-17 01:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 

T57 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 169
T57
Loc: NE Ill.
Reg: 01-07-06
12-05-17 05:02 PM - Post#2716989    
    In response to T57

Nothin'? OK, I'll get a hold of Nu-relics.
I just like hearing it from real world installs who have actually used it.
thanx in advance..."T"...




IBEW
57 belair
ski-doo


 
fuzz1957 
Contributor
Posts: 552

Loc: NE IA
Reg: 02-18-08
12-06-17 06:21 PM - Post#2717120    
    In response to T57

I redo front hinges, routing wires through the hinges. Rear doors, can’t help you there.

Fuzz




 
5Larry7 
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1916
5Larry7
Loc: Dallas, TX
Reg: 05-17-04
12-06-17 06:31 PM - Post#2717121    
    In response to T57

I just finished this job on my '57. I used a Specialty Power Window kit I got from Ecklers. I located the hole in the door jamb as per the instructions in my kit. You can see it is pretty close to the inside edge. First I drilled a 1/8 hole in the jamb. Then from behind the jamb, (you wil have to remove the kick panel), I screwed a sheet metal screw such that when the door is closed it will just touch the door. That locates the center of the hole you will need in the door. Drilling the hole in the jamb it easy, in the door that is another story. I used a 90 degree angle small pneumatic die grinder I got from Harbor Freight, and a burr that came to a point. Carefully I started the hole, gradually enlarging it until I could get a larger burr in there to get it to the desired diameter. The end of the conduit that goes into the jamb is the moveable end, it slides in and out of a plastic sleeve. The other end is fixed in the door, it comes with a grommet, but I drilled the hole a bit too large so I used some RTV to aid in holding it. My instructions said to remove the door in order to drill the hole. I was not about to do that, figuring getting it back on exactly where it was impossible and, without any scratches. Anyway, that is how I did it. Good luck with your installation. Larry

Attachment: door_conduit.jpg (225.49 KB) 18 View(s)




Attachment: door_conduit_1.jpg (176.46 KB) 17 View(s)




'57 210, 327 cid, Holley MPFI, 700R4, A/C & more.
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer.


 
Bruces 57 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2360

Reg: 01-03-07
12-09-17 01:45 PM - Post#2717423    
    In response to 5Larry7

Hello;
You mentioned rear window? is your car a 4 door? My car is the 4 door hardtop. I got Nu Relics and didn't have any problems routing wires in the front as I used a pair of wire channels made for such use in original tri-5 chevies!
The rear windows I had multiple headaches!! Got the wiring in but the regulators had problems LIFTING those massive rear windows in the chrome frames! I called NuRelics and the fix was, rip the whole things out, send them to them to ad a coil spring (like the manual regulator) and then re-install! Thats too much work, not enough pay, so I had them send me a kit to do the job> The funny part was why in the hell didn't they have those springs included with the regulators I got!! Or offer a trade for the ones I had for the modified ones!! THEY WOULD NOT DO THAT!!!! So to me that don't stand behind their product even as costly as it is!! Might as well get window motors and figure out how to ad to your existing regulators!!

Bruce



 

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