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Username Post: 98 Sierra 5.7 v8 head gaskets        (Topic#348211)
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-14-17 06:43 PM - Post#2714407    

Hey everyone,

I’m half way through a head gasket and valve repair.
Stuck valve on cyl 6. Bent push rod.

I hear this is the place to be for expertise and advice.

The heads are on there Reaally good and loking for your input on how to “pry” (I use that term loosely) them off w/o messing anything up.

Thanks,
Sobieski






 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
CowboyTrukr 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3817
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
11-14-17 07:08 PM - Post#2714415    
    In response to sobieski

You should be safe taking a wooden dowel, inserting into the intake port and gently lifting. The longer, the better.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-15-17 04:33 AM - Post#2714446    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

Thanks CT.

Also, I think the previous owner put some kind of stopleak in the cooling system.

Whats the best way to be sure the block cooling passages are fully flushed out?



 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 108
jktucker92
Reg: 02-05-17
11-15-17 12:35 PM - Post#2714505    
    In response to sobieski

When taking off the heads, make sure you have all 17 bolts removed. This may sound obvious, but I've seen photos of heads that were pried off with bolts still in place. Sometimes one or more of the bolts outside the valve cover are missed, and sometimes the outside bolts inside the valve cover are missed because they are recessed lower than the others.
As for flushing the engine. Usually, that's done with the engine running, and you flush out the entire cooling system, not just the engine. Given that your engine is at least partially disassembled, that won't be practical. In order to drain the engine to allow you to flush the lower sections of the block, you'll need to remove the 1/4" pipe plugs at the bottom of the block. For TBI engines the knock sensor is in one of those holes on the passenger side, and I believe that's true of the Vortec motors as well. You can remove them and remove the water pump and flush it out with a hose until all the water coming out is clean. If you run water through too fast, water will make it up to the top of the block and leak out and some will end up in the oil pan. Just want to be careful not to let too much oil in there. In any case, you'll want fresh oil in the pan for startup.
You'll also want to use the hose to flush out the radiator and heater core.



 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-15-17 04:04 PM - Post#2714530    
    In response to jktucker92

Got it. Thanks much.

How do i flush ou the heater core?



 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-15-17 06:22 PM - Post#2714558    
    In response to sobieski

Also, should the lifers slide right out or does that retaining bracket inside the valley need to come off first?

Thanks in advance - really appreciate the help.



Edited by sobieski on 11-15-17 06:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-18-17 05:00 AM - Post#2714828    
    In response to sobieski

FWIW there is a bracket that runs down the middle of the valley which holds down 8 “collars”. The 8 collars set/sit on top of each pair of lifters.

I wish I could post pictures on here.





 
stumppuller 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 814
stumppuller
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
11-18-17 07:02 PM - Post#2714898    
    In response to sobieski

Take the center bracket out (just 3 bolts), and then the collars lift off. It's a good idea to mark them so everything goes back to the original location(but I don't believe it's too critical for the collars). Mark the bracket so you know which way is Fwd/Face up.

The lifters can still prove difficult to remove sometimes due to an accumulation of varnish on the lower portion, there is a tool available to help with this.

Attachment: ccrp_0710_03_z-hydraulic_roller_cams-87_small_block_engine.jpg (94.07 KB) 5 View(s)




Attachment: 414HZOczy-L.jpg (27.95 KB) 3 View(s)




-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20


 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-19-17 05:14 PM - Post#2714988    
    In response to stumppuller

Excellent. Thank you Stumper.
Stay tuned.



 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-19-17 05:15 PM - Post#2714989    
    In response to sobieski

PS

I hear that i should replace the lifers.
What say you?



 
stumppuller 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 814
stumppuller
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
11-19-17 09:00 PM - Post#2715024    
    In response to sobieski

On a flat tappet cam, the lifters and cam are replaced as a set.

On a roller cam (what you have), the lifters can be re-used as long as they are in good condition.

Personally, I would replace the lifters in the positions that had bent rods.

-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20


 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
11-21-17 06:25 PM - Post#2715247    
    In response to stumppuller

Maybe i should replace em all?

On inspection they looked ok.
A few little wear marks.





 
stumppuller 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 814
stumppuller
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
11-26-17 07:51 PM - Post#2715860    
    In response to sobieski

There is no reason not to re-use roller lifters if they are in good shape.

It is only the one with the bent pushrod I would be concerned with. You don't want the internals of the lifter to be damaged or it could collapse. It's not destructive to the engine, just means you would have to go back in and replace it.

-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20


Edited by stumppuller on 11-26-17 07:53 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sobieski 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 11-14-17
12-17-17 06:27 AM - Post#2718245    
    In response to stumppuller

As I prepare to put this thing back together, any advice on valve adjustments?





 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3807
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
12-17-17 07:18 AM - Post#2718248    
    In response to sobieski

Do not soak the lifters. Cover them with assembly lube and put them in. Start at #1 cylinder TDC compression stroke and adjust both rockers to half turn past zero lash. Just go by the firing order. Roll the crank 90° and do number 8 then 4-3-6-5-7-2. Prime the oil pump until you have good pressure on the gauge, put the distributor in and fire it up.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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