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Username Post: 1950 3100 Dash refurb        (Topic#347828)
baehrelw 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 36
baehrelw
Loc: west michigan
Reg: 12-16-15
10-23-17 10:29 AM - Post#2711819    

I have the instrument cluster loose under the dash. I want to detach the thermostat and Oil pressure lines and am concerned about damaging them in the process. It appears that they are secured to the dash cluster with a square nut, is it as simple as wrenching it off? I see 2 flat screws on either side of the lines for these gauges and assume they are holding the gauge in the cluster. A little guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.




 
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raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27072
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-23-17 11:43 AM - Post#2711837    
    In response to baehrelw

The oil pressure line can be disconnected at the gauge end without damage. If you find it easier, you could disconnect the line at the engine instead and pull it through the firewall.

This is not true for the temp gauge. The gauge, line and "bulb" at the engine end are all part of a sealed system. If the line gets broken or damaged at any point, the gas/liquid inside will escape and the complete assembly will have to be sent to a gauge specialist for repair. Remove the square nut at the engine end and carefully pass the line through the firewall as you remove the cluster from the dash.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
baehrelw 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 36
baehrelw
Loc: west michigan
Reg: 12-16-15
10-23-17 01:36 PM - Post#2711848    
    In response to raycow

Thank You Ray, I followed your suggestions and the gauge is out all in one piece. Any idea how to detach the headlight switch? That is the last item still intact in the dash. I have crawled up under there and see no way to get a wrench on the backside of the dash.



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27072
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-23-17 04:50 PM - Post#2711868    
    In response to baehrelw

Here are two methods, depending on whether you have an OE switch or a replacement. The replacement switches I looked at on ebay have a knob with a setscrew and the OE switches have the shaft and knob made in one piece.

First look for a setscrew on the knob, loosen it and remove the knob. This should expose the switch retaining ring or nut. Hold the switch while you unscrew the retainer and you are done.

If no setscrew, feel around on the side of the switch opposite the terminals until you find a spring loaded button. Push the button in while you pull on the knob. This should let you remove the shaft and expose the retainer.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
baehrelw 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 36
baehrelw
Loc: west michigan
Reg: 12-16-15
10-24-17 07:14 AM - Post#2711940    
    In response to raycow

Got it, It is out. Thank You again Ray. Cheers!




 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27072
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-24-17 10:54 AM - Post#2711972    
    In response to baehrelw

Glad to hear you were able to remove the switch with no problems. Did yours have the setscrew or the button?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Mick53 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
Mick53
Loc: Northern Indiana
Reg: 04-02-16
10-25-17 07:26 AM - Post#2712097    
    In response to baehrelw

Ray is awesome!



 
baehrelw 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 36
baehrelw
Loc: west michigan
Reg: 12-16-15
10-25-17 11:22 AM - Post#2712128    
    In response to raycow

It had the bottom side button. Switch was installed so that the button was on the side. The truck has an aftermarket heater and I was having a challenge getting it out. Per your suggestion, I looked for a set screw after failing to feel one. It was there, I removed it, but it still did not want to come out. After closer inspection, getting up real close, I detected a wee bit of thread on the shaft (it was a 3 position switch similar to the headlight that you pull out to each position), so I tried to unscrew the knob. Off it came, so now the dash is clear of all installed components and I can remove the 2 coats of paint in preparation for returning it to the original paint color.

I am debating on repaint of the door interiors. Truck was originally red, previous owner repainted in the 1980's to a calf poo brown (inside and out), and then again in 2013 to red. He left the dash and all side panels in the poo brown. The doors interior were repainted to red when the exterior was repainted. The doors look good in red, but conflict with my desire to have the truck original in all aspects. Your thoughts on doing the doors?



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27072
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-25-17 12:18 PM - Post#2712134    
    In response to Mick53

Mick, thank you for the compliment. CT is the warmest and most "family-like" forum I have ever been on.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
WagonCrazy 
"11th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3007
WagonCrazy
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 06-07-05
10-27-17 05:24 AM - Post#2712334    
    In response to raycow

  • Quote:
The doors interior were repainted to red when the exterior was repainted. The doors look good in red, but conflict with my desire to have the truck original in all aspects. Your thoughts on doing the doors?



If it was me, and I was in there redoing the dash paint already, I'd just bite the bullet and prep the doors too and paint them all at one time so that you have a completely matching interior.

57 Nomad -LS1 with C4 suspension
59 Apache Fleetside Shortbed BigWindow



Edited by WagonCrazy on 10-27-17 05:24 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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