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Username Post: Spedometer question        (Topic#347652)
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
10-13-17 10:01 AM - Post#2710738    

After reading from the above sticky, my needle bounces when going slow & was wondering if that would be that I didn't lube the cable properly several years back or the speedometer itself needs lube. It doesn't make any noise. Thanks for feedback

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 

raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27353
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-13-17 11:42 AM - Post#2710748    
    In response to J REID

Check the cable first because it is easier than the speedo head. Pull the inner cable out of its sheath from the top, clean it off, and roll it on a flat surface. It should roll smoothly without flopping around. If the cable is obviously bent or kinked, you have probably found the problem. If it checks out good, give the lower half a thin coat of lube and reinstall it. The lube will work the rest of the way to the top by itself.

If the speedo still jumps once you have determined that the cable is good, then you know the problem is inside the head. Remove the small brass disc near the threaded cable fitting and give the felt wick inside a few drops of thin oil like "3 in One". If the speedo still jumps after that, it will have to come apart for inspection, cleaning, and whatever else it might need.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
10-13-17 08:41 PM - Post#2710793    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray, I've never had the cable completely out before & wouldn't look foreward to working under the dash so hope it's in the cable.

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
12-26-17 03:09 PM - Post#2719041    
    In response to J REID

Just got around to trying to get it out but wouldn't come out with finger pressure. I am going to try a pliers next. Can you get just the inner cable & without the plastic end or will I have to get the whole thing? Thanks again

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27353
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-26-17 04:27 PM - Post#2719045    
    In response to J REID

  • J REID Said:
Can you get just the inner cable & without the plastic end or will I have to get the whole thing?


If the inner cable won't slide out easily, you may have a bind or a kink. Don't use force on it until you find out what or where the problem is.

Disconnect the cable at the transmission end and straighten it out, working from the bottom up. If necessary, remove the cable from any clips or retainers which are securing it to the frame or other components. You should end up with the cable in the engine compartment and pointing toward the front of the car. Inspect it for any obvious damage and then try to remove the inner cable again. If the inner cable still won't budge, look under the dash to see if the outer cable is free and then pull it through the firewall. It is better to pull it from the engine side because the nut on the lower end is larger than the upper.

If you do eventually get the inner cable out and the outer cable appears to be undamaged, you can get a replacement inner as a kit. This consists of a long cable which you cut to the length you need and a loose tip which you crimp onto the cut end. Any parts store should stock this. If your local store doesn't stock it, you can order it online.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/atp,YC101,sp eedom...

If your outer cable is damaged, then you will need the complete cable assembly.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet, 1957,...

Ray


Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
12-26-17 04:57 PM - Post#2719046    
    In response to raycow

Well, I pulled lightly on it & it didn't budge so I figured as you said above. See what happens if I can get to it tomorrow. I hope it will come out from the bottom. The last time I drove it, it really bounced just before I got home so don't know what I will see. Thanks

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27353
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-26-17 08:14 PM - Post#2719065    
    In response to J REID

It looks like I didn't explain this very well. The inner cable can be removed only from the top. I suggested disconnecting the cable from the trans so you could straighten it out and hopefully relieve whatever bind was preventing the inner cable from being pulled out.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 693

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
01-15-18 02:35 PM - Post#2721110    
    In response to raycow

Finally got around to answering. When I disconnected at the trans I found that it was twisted off right at the trans, I am thinking because I didn't have the connection tight enough?
I still couldn't get the cable out so cut off what I could & hooked my drill to the top end & it came out like a breeze. It looked properly lubricated with no shiny/wear spots so I learned something. Have a new cable in & just have to figure out what to disconnect to get the rubber grommet back in the right way. I don't like th plastic piece at the top of the new cable, hope it lasts. Thanks for the guidance & have a good day

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 

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