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Username Post: ?? rear end help ??        (Topic#347585)
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
10-09-17 10:27 AM - Post#2710294    

I got a 1988 Chevy 3500 (single Wheel 8600lb gross) a 14 bolt 8 lug.

I been hearing a soft screeching sound for last couple hundred miles at low speed. I thought it was brakes, then u joint, now I felt the neck of the rear end gets hot enough that you dont want to keep your hand on it.

First question is, "what years or what year to year, of rear ends will swap out?

I'll be back with more questions later. thanks for now.




 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2442
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
10-09-17 11:39 PM - Post#2710372    
    In response to weld123

Should be any 14bff from the GMT-400..... they went through 2000 in the 1-ton. You might want to keep your same brake RPO. Mine is JB8, what is yours? I think 2500's usually got JB7, so even though it's a 14bff, the brakes may be different.

Do you have slide off drums or are they on the back of the hubs?

99 K3500 RCLB


 
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
10-11-17 12:54 PM - Post#2710549    
    In response to 454cid

I been having a tough time with this. I have a G80 rear end. GT4 ratio. But the brakes I don't know yet. The sticker is ledgible, I found a J50, but not seeing a JD or JB, of any sort. I turned drive shaft almost 3 3/4 revolution, to make wheel turn one revolution. Slightly over 7 1/3 rev. for wheel 2 revolutions, and exactly 11 revolutions of drive shaft to turn wheel 3 times.

I'm not sure its the original rear end, cuz, its got 93 Written on diff. cover with a paint marker, as it may have come from a wrecking yard.

I live in a farming community, so I'm trying to find a dead truck laying around on some ranch or something, cuz I think I'd be able to get a whole parts truck for a probabaly double of the cost for a rear end.

I trying to determine what range of years and models of truck will have a swap out rear end.

I took diff cover off, after driving it, and the "case"( the big yoke looking thing with a hole on one side, and opening on other side that holds a rack gear on a small dia shaft), i think its called felt a little hot. I still havent been able to locate anything wrong inside though. thanks



Edited by weld123 on 10-11-17 12:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28432
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
10-11-17 01:21 PM - Post#2710554    
    In response to weld123

Since you've got the cover off, just turn the wheel until you can see the numbers stamped into the edge of the ring gear - that will tell you the number of teeth for the ring and pinion, then simple division will give you the ratio.



In that example with 41 and 10, divide 41 by 10 and you see it's a 4.10:1 ratio setup.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
10-11-17 07:28 PM - Post#2710590    
    In response to someotherguy

ahhh, thank you, that sounds easy.



 
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
10-21-17 11:46 AM - Post#2711609    
    In response to weld123

I found a rear end for a hundred bucks, its a 2 hrdrive one way. it comes w/ leaf springs on it, and drums. Its still hanging on chasis.

Guy says its a 1989 3500 singe wheel. My concern is its 10 bolt. He said truck came with a manual trans. He told me the eng was 454, and his brother told me it had a 350 in it.

I got a measurement of 45" between leaf springs on my truck, he got a measurement of just under 44" on his.

He sent me pic of hubs, they have bolts eight bolts to hold hub/axle in. My 14 bolt has no bolts there.

It surprises me that a 10 bolt came in a 3500?

Also, do you guys think my driveline will hook right up, or do you think neck of differential would be longer or shorter. Any guesses on gear ratio?

Also, any ideas if I hook up brake lines to my brake system, and his brake drums are different or smaller.

Any thoughts or comments would be welcome.

I got to make a decision on this probabaly later today, or tommorrow I think.

So any inpiut on the sounds of this would be nice.



Edited by weld123 on 10-21-17 12:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2plus2 
Member
Posts: 1077

Loc: Langley,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
10-21-17 12:07 PM - Post#2711610    
    In response to weld123

3500s never came with a corporate 10 bolt
They came with 10.5 inch 14b ff or the odd one got a dana 70 (10 bolts on the diff cover)

Are you dealing with the same body style 3500? 88-91 was a carry over for the 73-87 body in the crew cab 1tons and suvs


69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2
factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35 bfg m/t's 9k winch cutout flares
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged


Edited by 2plus2 on 10-21-17 12:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
10-21-17 12:11 PM - Post#2711611    
    In response to 2plus2

yes, 10 bolts on the diff cover. Wheel studs have eight. Thanks, I just looked at Dana 70 on youtube, it looks like diff cover pattern



Edited by weld123 on 10-21-17 12:25 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2442
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
10-21-17 02:32 PM - Post#2711628    
    In response to 2plus2

  • 2plus2 Said:

Are you dealing with the same body style 3500? 88-91 was a carry over for the 73-87 body in the crew cab 1tons and suvs




Other than the SUV's, I believe it was only the crew cabs, or crew cab duallies that were still squarebodies. GMT-400 1-tons were available in 88.

GM did put a few Dana axles in the duallies, maybe early SRW trucks too. I think I'd rather hold out for a 14-bolt.

99 K3500 RCLB


Edited by 454cid on 10-21-17 02:35 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3758
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-21-17 02:44 PM - Post#2711631    
    In response to weld123

It's a Dana 70 3HD. I would prefer the 14 bolt because of the spanner nuts for backlash and pinion support bearing. I have an 88 with a Dana 70 and never had a bit of trouble out of it. It is still a 10.5 inch ring gear.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
2plus2 
Member
Posts: 1077

Loc: Langley,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
10-21-17 05:00 PM - Post#2711636    
    In response to bowtie44s

If its a 3hd walk away,it has a larger pinion offset to allow for low gears like 3.07s and you need a spacer for the ring gear to run normal gears
Keep looking for a 14b with the same gear ratio

69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2
factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35 bfg m/t's 9k winch cutout flares
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged


 
rockfangd 
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Loc: Utica ny
Reg: 04-13-10
10-21-17 06:00 PM - Post#2711643    
    In response to 2plus2

agreed.
also I would go for a 14 bolt any day before swapping in another 10 bolt.
Semi float 14 bolt differentials have no bolts holding the axles in. they are retained by c clips inside the diff.
14 bolt full floater axles are bolted to the hubs.
with 8 bolts iirc. commonly found on dually

Old School GM fan FOREVER


 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2442
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
10-21-17 09:53 PM - Post#2711653    
    In response to rockfangd

  • rockfangd Said:
agreed.
also I would go for a 14 bolt any day before swapping in another 10 bolt.



It has 10-bolts, but is in no way a "10-bolt". It's a Dana axle, and the "bolt" designations only apply to GM Corporate axles.

  • Quote:

Semi float 14 bolt differentials have no bolts holding the axles in. they are retained by c clips inside the diff.



Hmm, I didn't think 1-tons came with the 14bsf rear axle, but re-reading the OP's later post it sounds like he has a semi-floating axle.

  • Quote:

14 bolt full floater axles are bolted to the hubs.
with 8 bolts iirc. commonly found on dually



They're in duallies and SRW.



99 K3500 RCLB


Edited by 454cid on 10-21-17 10:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3758
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-22-17 05:50 AM - Post#2711672    
    In response to 2plus2

The Dana 70 3HD is a 10½ full floater. Mine came from the factory with 3.73 and there's no spacer. I don't know what you're saying about 3.07.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
scrambldcj8 
Senior Member
Posts: 2290

Loc: MA
Reg: 04-06-03
10-22-17 05:43 PM - Post#2711746    
    In response to weld123

  • weld123 Said:

He sent me pic of hubs, they have bolts eight bolts to hold hub/axle in. My 14 bolt has no bolts there.



Are you the original owner of this 88 3500?



 
2plus2 
Member
Posts: 1077

Loc: Langley,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
10-22-17 07:47 PM - Post#2711763    
    In response to bowtie44s

The pinion is offset farther away from the ring gear on the 3hd vs a reg d70,when you go to lower (numerically) gears your pinion head gets bigger
You dont have a spacer because you are running d70 3hd gears and not d70 gears

Look up d61 vs d60 and its the same principle

To the OP can you post up some pics?

69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2
factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35 bfg m/t's 9k winch cutout flares
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 256

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
11-01-17 07:46 AM - Post#2712930    
    In response to 454cid

Those full floaters are also in "HD" 2500 k series trucks as well. At least they are in my 99 K series. It's also an 8600 GVW which gave it the bigger brakes (learned that the hard way on the front) 4.10 gears and a 454.



 
someotherguy 
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Posts: 28432
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
11-01-17 08:16 AM - Post#2712933    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

We've been down the SF/FF in a 2500 road before, both were available - though it does seem roughly tied to TBI/Vortec era. The earlier 2500 trucks were more likely to have the 9.5" semifloat 14 bolt, Vortec trucks having the 10.5" full float 14 bolt.

Somewhat of a small sample size but this is what I saw in my salvage yard inventory as well.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 256

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
11-02-17 08:08 AM - Post#2713048    
    In response to someotherguy

Makes sense. Mine is a Vortec. I must say I think I prefer the full floaters though myself. I really hate taking the cover off just to change an axle seal.



 
weld123 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 10-20-07
12-06-17 07:52 PM - Post#2717133    
    In response to scrambldcj8

No, Im not orig owner. Also the guy flaked out on selling me the rear end i was going to try to buy that was a two hr. drive.

I thank you for all the replies, its been informing, which leads me to believe I have a 9.5" 14 bolt, cuz, there are no bolts on ends of hub to slide axle out. It is also limited slip.

I'm kinda disgusted with trying to find another rear end, and am leaning towards trying to fix this one. Do any of you, know of any good literaure/links on assembly/dissambly this specific rear end?

I'm almost sure its bearing noise. It is now getting to hot to hold my hand on rear end housing after a descent drive, and getting louder. But, yet, when i jack it up, spin driveline, it makes no noise, as wheels arent under load. But my suspicion, is its a bearing on either side of casing, cuz, when i pulled cover off, and felt around, casing was warmest part.




Edited by weld123 on 12-06-17 07:54 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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