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Username Post: 98 Rear Wherl Bearings        (Topic#347564)
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-08-17 10:02 AM - Post#2710135    

Couldn't find a thread on the replacement of rear bearings on a 98 1500 4x2.
Wondering about any tips to make it go quicker or smoother. Insight tips of what to not over look.
I watched a couple YouTube vids and one showed a complete wearing and seal unit that I've not heard about or seen. I've always seen the seals and bearings separate. But maybe it's a better set up.
Any thoughts on any of it are appreciated.
Thanks



 
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CowboyTrukr 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3732
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
10-08-17 10:16 PM - Post#2710225    
    In response to Thumpit

What you saw was a bearing repair kit. The bearing and seal are one unit.



Attachment: 02E4BA43-1192-4CA5-8C1F-3DB206089208.png (303.87 KB) 18 View(s)

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-09-17 08:31 PM - Post#2710353    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

How could I tell the size of the ring gear to get the right bearings, without pulling the cover?
It's a 98 extended cab 2 wheel drive 5.7 1500.
I noticed it has the 8.5 and 9.5 in the descriptions of the beatings.
Thanks



 
stumppuller 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 785
stumppuller
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
10-10-17 09:35 PM - Post#2710464    
    In response to Thumpit

A 9.5" ring gear will have 14 bolts on the differential cover. The 8.5 is less (either 10 or 12 bolts, not sure on this one).

Why are you looking to replace the bearings? Reason I ask is I've found it is often the shaft that wears and not the bearings.

And stay away from those repair bearings, they are not nearly as strong.

-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20


 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-12-17 10:03 AM - Post#2710641    
    In response to stumppuller

The reason for the repair is I am hearing a small roar type sound from the rear end.
Changing the lube didn't stop it.
No play up and down on the rear wheels and so I thought it must be the bearings and didn't want it to ruin my axles.
I'm really not sure what the small roar could be if it's not the outter bearing.



 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-12-17 10:11 AM - Post#2710642    
    In response to Thumpit

I got back under the truck to count the bolts and its 10.
I also noticed that straight above the front of the chunk where the drive shaft connects to the rear end that there is lube all over the bottom of the bed.
Looks like it's leaking out the front of the rear end and the drive shaft is slinging it up on the bed.
Would that be just a seal or a seal and a bearing that's failing?
Thanks



Edited by Thumpit on 10-12-17 10:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
stumppuller 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 785
stumppuller
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
10-12-17 04:45 PM - Post#2710682    
    In response to Thumpit

Most likely the roar is from the pinion bearing inside the differential, probably ran low of fluid due to the leak.

Put the rear on jack stands, remove the rear tires and install one lug nut per side to secure the drum. With the truck running and in drive, listen while everything's rotating to see if you can pinpoint the noise. If not, try applying the part brake - many times a bad bearing will be quiet until it is under a load.

Also, check the pinion yoke for any play. And if you have a 2 piece driveshaft be sure to check the carrier bearing at it's midpoint, they can produce a lot of noise when they begin to fail.

-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20


 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-12-17 07:10 PM - Post#2710695    
    In response to stumppuller

Ok thanks. It's just a one piece but I will try that.
I hate to think its the pinions but if it is should I just replace all the bearings in the chunk and the outside axles too?
Thanks



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3722
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-13-17 09:20 AM - Post#2710735    
    In response to Thumpit

  • Thumpit Said:
I hate to think its the pinions



There's only one pinion in the back, one in the front. If the pinion seal is bad, you have to pull the yoke and preload had to be set to a specific inch pound of rotational resistance. Rebuilding a rear end is not a beginner job. Your best bet would be to buy a whole used axle.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-13-17 02:11 PM - Post#2710754    
    In response to Thumpit

Question.
What do you do about that plastic race on the inside of the cylinderical bearing that holds the bearings tight inside the casing until the axle goes in?
These are National bearings and if you take the plastic race out of the bearing the roller bearings will fall out.
The original bearings stayed in place without this plastic helper. Once the axle goes in, it pushes the plastic race out of the way. But then I can't get the plastic piece out.
Thanks



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3722
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-13-17 05:22 PM - Post#2710774    
    In response to Thumpit

I really don't know what you're talking about. It sounds like you're talking about individual rollers. You hold them in with heavy grease, but I don't know of any rear end that uses them. Pictures would really help.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
scrambldcj8 
Senior Member
Posts: 2280

Loc: MA
Reg: 04-06-03
10-14-17 04:47 AM - Post#2710807    
    In response to bowtie44s

I also agree the source could very well be pinion bearing related. Does the sound come or go with coast vs. being underload? I had an 8.5 (1994 K-Blazer) that howled for years.....till I got tired of it and got a good deal on a light duty (6 lug) 14SF rear that swapped right in, except for a conversion U-joint.



 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-14-17 09:39 AM - Post#2710829    
    In response to bowtie44s



Attachment: image.jpeg (2.45 MB) 2 View(s)


This is the old bearing from the outside axle. It stayed together during removal . The other one didn't. The New bearing has a round plastic race that keeps the roller bearings tight inside the metal race cage. National Brand for the 8.5 rear end. If you remove the plastic race the bearings will fall out. These in the picture do not fall out.




 
Thumpit 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 53
Thumpit
Reg: 11-26-16
10-14-17 09:42 AM - Post#2710830    
    In response to Thumpit

I bought the bearings from Advance Auto. There cheaper $29 bearings did not have the race.
Grease will not hold these bearings in place. You still have to install the seal and that would cause them to fall out if the round plastic sleeve race is removed.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3722
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-14-17 02:06 PM - Post#2710858    
    In response to Thumpit

Ok, you're talking about a wheel bearing. The rollers shouldn't fall out. I'd take them back and get Timkens. You can put them in with heavy grease and the sleeve, drive it in and pull the sleeve and put the axle in. Again, I'd take it back and get a Timken.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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